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Why lug-to-lug matters more than diameter (and how to actually pick a watch that fits)

Diameter is the number every product page leads with. lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist. a tour through the WristBuzz watch dimensions database.

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Bauhaus Meets The Atelier: How Nomos Turned Its Dials Into Art For The Twice Unique Collection Fratello
Nomos Turned Sep 8, 2026

Bauhaus Meets The Atelier: How Nomos Turned Its Dials Into Art For The Twice Unique Collection

I still remember running from booth to booth during Watches and Wonders when an email from Nomos arrived in my inbox. It introduced the brand’s new Twice Unique collection and immediately looked like an eclectic new initiative. With this new collection, Nomos celebrates collaboration and creative freedom, allowing the brand to experiment. The dials in […] Visit Bauhaus Meets The Atelier: How Nomos Turned Its Dials Into Art For The Twice Unique Collection to read the full article.

Hamilton’s Popular Murph Collection Gets a New Dial Expression Worn & Wound
Hamilton s Popular Murph Collection Sep 7, 2026

Hamilton’s Popular Murph Collection Gets a New Dial Expression

Hamilton is among a small cohort of watchmakers with particularly close ties to film. The brand’s watches have been a part of cinematic history from iconic moments in classic movies like James Bond’s Pulsar in Live and Let Die and Elvis Presley’s Ventura in Blue Hawaii to more recent releases like special edition Ventura models in the Dune franchise or a limited edition Khaki Field made for The Odyssey. In Hamilton’s contribution to cinema, its collaborations have been most significant with Christopher Nolan, the filmmaker behind The Odyssey, Oppenheimer, Tenant, and Interstellar. Among these projects, the pair’s work on the 2014 epic sci-fi film Interstellar has been the most enduring. It resulted in a cult edition of Hamilton’s Khaki Field dubbed the Murph after its crucial role in the plot on the wrist of Murphy “Murph” Cooper, the daughter of Matthew McConaughey’s character Joseph Cooper. The model went on to transcend its part in the film and become a permanent fixture in Hamilton’s catalog. The brand continues to build on this legacy with its latest expression of the Murph featuring a fittingly cosmic dial that echoes back to the model’s origins.The newest edition to the Murph family reprises the more accessible 38mm proportions as opposed to the larger, oversized 42mm build that made up the original edition. Like other models we’ve seen throughout the collection, it also offers the option of a stainless steel bracelet for a sportier look or a...

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Hands-On Review: A Bigger, Sportier Carrera WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Hands-On Sep 7, 2026

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Hands-On Review: A Bigger, Sportier Carrera

TAG Heuer has just unveiled the new Carrera Chronograph Sport, staying true to the model’s DNA, but in a more beefed-up fashion! What We Love The classic Carrera case shape is still immediately recognisable The move to 42mm makes the Carrera Sport much more wearable than the previous generation The green dial and silver dial variants look particularly good in person What We Don’t At 42mm, it is still a reasonably substantial watch The more robust design won’t have the same versatility as the 39mm Carrera Glass Box The blue dial and black dial models are not as eye-catching Overall Rating: 8.5 / 10 Value For Money: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The TAG Heuer Carrera has never really needed an introduction. It has been one of the defining chronographs in the TAG Heuer collection since Jack Heuer introduced it in 1963, and over the years I’ve had the chance to wear and review plenty of different versions. Now, with the new Carrera Chronograph Sport, (just in time for the Madrid Grand Prix, as TAG Heuer is the race sponsor, I might add), TAG Heuer has taken the familiar Carrera formula and given it a little more presence, a sportier feel and, importantly, some better proportions. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport models As you may imagine, this is not my first time wearing a TAG Heuer Carrera. I’ve reviewed plenty of Carreras over the years, from the revamped Glass Box models introduced in 2023 through to the Rose Gold Carrera ...

Introducing - Union Glashütte Unveils the Compact and Dressy Seris Small Second Collection Monochrome
Union Glashütte Sep 7, 2026

Introducing - Union Glashütte Unveils the Compact and Dressy Seris Small Second Collection

Recent releases from Union Glashütte have been largely about chronographs, from the latest Averin Chronograph with its white embossed tile-pattern dial to the Belisar Chronograph with its monochromatic look. Now, the Glashütte-based brand has something different in store with a new addition to its Seris family. Positioned as a more feminine collection, the Seris has […]

This New Hamilton Field Watch Has a Cosmic Story, but the Dial Is the Real Hook Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hamilton Field Watch Has Sep 5, 2026

This New Hamilton Field Watch Has a Cosmic Story, but the Dial Is the Real Hook

Hamilton has returned to the 38mm Khaki Field Murph with another variation, and this time the familiar Interstellar watch is getting considerably more color. The new Murph pairs the existing 38mm platform with a textured blue dial that darkens toward black at its perimeter. Hamilton says the dial was inspired by the glowing ionized gases surrounding an interstellar comet. If you ask me, that explanation feels secondary to the simpler reality: someone decided the Murph would look good in blue. I think they were probably right.

High Five! Here’s The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt, The Dress Watch’s Fifth Iteration Fratello
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Sep 5, 2026

High Five! Here’s The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt, The Dress Watch’s Fifth Iteration

A black-and-gold watch is hardly a new idea. It is one of those colorways that watch brands opt for whenever they want something to look slightly more serious, a bit more elegant, or simply a little more expensive. But that’s not what the new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt is all about. The […] Visit High Five! Here’s The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt, The Dress Watch’s Fifth Iteration to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Space-Tested SC02C, a Mechanical Chronograph by Konstantin Chaykin Monochrome
Konstantin Chaykin Mechanical watches have accompanied Sep 4, 2026

Introducing - The New Space-Tested SC02C, a Mechanical Chronograph by Konstantin Chaykin

Mechanical watches have accompanied astronauts and cosmonauts into space for decades, but few contemporary watches can claim to have been developed specifically around the demands of extravehicular activity, like Konstantin Chaykin’s new SC02C. Born from the manufacture’s collaboration with Roscosmos, Russia’s space agency, the chronograph has been tested during four spacewalks and is now being […]

Join Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America for a Windup NYC Preview in Billings, Montana Worn & Wound
Accutron Frédérique Constant Sep 3, 2026

Join Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America for a Windup NYC Preview in Billings, Montana

Have you ever wanted the Windup Watch Fair to come to your neck of the wood? Well, if you live in Montana, you’re in luck. Following the success of our recent enthusiast night in Salt Lake, Worn & Wound is teaming up with Citizen Watch America once again, this time heading north to Montana. On Thursday, September 17, we’ll be joining our friends at Riddle’s Jewelry in Billings for a special preview of the offerings they’ll be bringing to Windup NYC next month, and you’re invited. Thursday, September 17, 2026 5:30–7:30 PM MT Riddle’s Jewelry – Billings Shiloh 1002 Shiloh Crossing Blvd. Billings, MT 59102 RSVP NOW! This isn’t your average watch event. We’re bringing along a curated collection of standout pieces from Citizen, Bulova, Accutron, Frédérique Constant, and Alpina—including watches that are difficult to track down, rarely seen in person, or simply deserve far more wrist time than they usually get. Everything will be out and in the metal, ready for you to pick up, strap on, obsess about, and, if one steals your heart… it’s ready for purchase. A few of the amazing highlights include: Citizen Eco-Drive Photon – Reference BJ6560-53W This limited edition celebrates the 50th anniversary of Eco-Drive technology and features a silver-tone Super Titanium case with a Duratect titanium carbide finish. Limited to just 5,000 pieces worldwide, it’s a standout example of Citizen’s ongoing commitment to light-powered watchmaking. Accutron Spacevi...

A Ceramic Makeover For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton - An Alpine Limited Edition Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Sep 2, 2026

A Ceramic Makeover For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton - An Alpine Limited Edition

There is something particularly Moser about taking a watch already built around an absurd amount of visible mechanics and deciding that what it really needs is a ceramic case. Today, I’m taking a look at the new H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition. It’s the third project born from the […] Visit A Ceramic Makeover For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton — An Alpine Limited Edition to read the full article.

Christopher Ward Introduces the new Biscay Dive Watch Collection Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Sep 1, 2026

Christopher Ward Introduces the new Biscay Dive Watch Collection

Christopher Ward has recently expanded their Trident family with the C60 Trident Biscay, set to replace the C65 Aquitaine. The UK-based watchmaker has pulled inspiration from two reference points: the skin divers of the 1960’s and the collection’s namesake, the Bay of Biscay  – which, for anyone who struggles with geography like moi, is the body of water nestled between the northern coast of Spain and the western coast of France and not Biscayne Bay, which is a lagoon in Florida. The end result is the C60 Trident Biscay Automatic, C60 Trident Biscay GMT, and C60 Trident Biscay Bronze. The first in the collection is the C60 Trident Biscay Automatic, available in 39mm and 42mm stainless steel cases. It uses Christopher Ward’s Light-catcher case with a slim 11mm profile and box sapphire crystal. This particular model also includes a granular dial, minimal text, and applied Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock. The Automatic is available in black, sand/black, and black/red and has a price tag starting at $1,870. Next is the GMT, which also comes in 39mm and 42mm sizes. Here, Christopher Ward has added a fourth hand for tracking another time zone and a bi-directional aluminum bezel in two-tone color combinations. The framed date window replaces the 6 o’clock numeral, while the surface-hardened bezel has a hardness level of 250HV, which Christopher Ward says is 67% harder than untreated aluminum. The GMT is available in black/red and sand/blue, and is priced f...

Introducing: Czapek's New Quai des Bergues And Place Vendôme Complicité Hodinkee
Czapek s New Quai des Sep 1, 2026

Introducing: Czapek's New Quai des Bergues And Place Vendôme Complicité

What We Know Only seven years ago, Czapek, a brand over 180 years old, opened its first modern boutique in Geneva, right next to the brand's original workshop from 1839. Soon after, it opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris. Its first collection, called "Quai des Bergues," celebrated the first boutique; another collection celebrated that boutique in France. Now, the brand has reopened its Geneva boutique with a new look and is celebrating with a new watch from each collection. The newest Quai des Bergues "Midnight in Geneva" uses the brand's proprietary SXH1 hand-wound movement, cased in a mid-sized 40.5mm by 11.9mm stainless steel case with sandblasted, hollowed-out lugs. The watch is an impressive bit of watchmaking in a really elegant form. The watch has a power reserve indicator, weekday indicator, and subsidiary seconds, but the power reserve is a massive 7 days. The elegance comes in part from a beautiful dark blue aventurine dial with silver powder-coated steel Fleur-de-Lys hands, printed elongated Roman numerals, and a chemin de fer outer track. The watch, with a 50-meter water resistance, is limited to 18 pieces and retails for $28,600. The Place Vendôme Complicité Glacier Blue is a new treatment for the brand's open-worked double-escapement watch created in collaboration with Bernhard Lederer. While the previous watch was technically impressive but visually reserved, the Place Vendôme Complicité puts complexity at the forefront. The watch fe...

Murphy Cooper’s Choice: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm With A New Blue Dial Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Sep 1, 2026

Murphy Cooper’s Choice: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm With A New Blue Dial

I bet that, if given a choice, Murphy Cooper would wear a different watch. In Christopher Nolan’s Interstellar (2014), “Murph” wears a black-dial watch with vintage elements, like cathedral hands, and probably a 42mm case. This gift from her father is pretty similar to the 2019 commercial release. A 38mm watch would fit her wrist […] Visit Murphy Cooper’s Choice: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm With A New Blue Dial to read the full article.

Studio Underd0g’s First Limited Edition 02SERIES Gen2 Goes on Sale for Just Nine Hours Tomorrow, and It Has a Full-Lume Dial Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g s First Limited Edition Aug 31, 2026

Studio Underd0g’s First Limited Edition 02SERIES Gen2 Goes on Sale for Just Nine Hours Tomorrow, and It Has a Full-Lume Dial

The field watch has long provided a blank canvas for creative – or in many cases not so creative – designs. Leave it to a brand like Studio Underd0g to take a timeless classic and give it a fresh and decidedly fun spin. That’s exactly what the brand did in 2023 with the launch of its 02SERIES. The line recently got a glow up with Gen2, which notably introduced a more streamlined case – down to a 37mm diameter from the original 37.5mm and down to 11.5mm thickness from the original 12mm. In addition, the new Gen2 collection got an upgraded movement from the Sellita SW210-1 to the Sellita SW200-2 M, which in turn upped the power reserve from 42 hours to 63 hours. Still, the biggest departure we see from the run of the mill field watch is the use of color – a trait Studio Underd0g has become known for – with four shades: Red L0lly, Pink Lem0nade, Steffany Blue, and Nightshade. Now, for the first time, a limited color run comes to the Gen2 series – this is the Special Edition 02SERIES Mantis. For this limited edition, we don’t just get a bright new green colorway by day – we get one that glows bright green by night. Yup, that’s right – it’s a full-lume dial. Thanks to a generous application of X1 GL C3 Super-LumiNova (a whopping seven layers to be exact), the daytime green ombre transforms into a single, uniform glow once the light fades. Here, at the base, you have that well-refined case design of the new Gen2 makeup. The dial gets a pleasing green colo...

An Elegant Skeletonized Watch: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold In Milano Blue Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Aug 31, 2026

An Elegant Skeletonized Watch: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold In Milano Blue

Parmigiani Fleurier introduces a new 30-piece limited edition Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold Milano Blue. It builds upon the other four Tonda PF Skeleton configurations — Rose Gold Graphite, Steel Platinum Graphite, Platinum Milano Blue, and Steel Platinum Slate Green. Although this might seem like another version of the same thing, those who know and […] Visit An Elegant Skeletonized Watch: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold In Milano Blue to read the full article.

Insight: The Keyless Works SJX Watches
Czapek was going sour Aug 31, 2026

Insight: The Keyless Works

Having previously examined concepts related to energy flow inside watch movements, from automatic winding to barrel capacity and gear tooth profiles, we now turn and look at how energy enters the movement through the keyless works. For the majority of watches, the crown is the sole component through which the owner interacts with the movement, for both setting the indications and winding. While these operations have become a matter of routine, they wouldn’t be possible if not for the keyless works. This underrated mechanism — usually hidden — deserves a closer look. From key to crown We owe today’s user-friendly dual-purpose crown, which can be used for both winding and setting, to French watchmaker Jean Adrien Philippe, whose last name is certainly resonant with all horology enthusiasts. A keen technician who had not found success in his homeland, Philippe was approached in 1845 by Antoine Norbert de Patek, a Polish watch merchant from Geneva. Patek’s then-partnership with François Czapek was going sour and the merchant was looking for a new, technically oriented associate. Shortly thereafter, Philippe was appointed as technical director at Patek’s firm. This unexpected fast track was due to Philippe’s innovation: the keyless, stem-wound movement. Although his French peers weren’t taken with the invention, Patek recognised the potential of keyless timepieces and sought to capitalise on — and further develop — the concept. Later in 1851, Patek, Philipp...

Bring a Loupe: A Hamilton Cross Country, A Heuer Titanium Quartz, A Movado Super Sub Sea Chronograph, And More Hodinkee
Breitling Tabarly Aug 28, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Hamilton Cross Country, A Heuer Titanium Quartz, A Movado Super Sub Sea Chronograph, And More

Welcome to August's end, everyone. I never know how to start these things—there's too much variety in most of our days, meaning that, short of borderline universal cultural experiences, it's hard to know what we'd all even know about. That said, I'd like to offer quick thanks: I've now lucked into writing Bring A Loupe for six months, and it's just tremendous fun, soup to nuts. Thanks for reading, and I look forward to working as hard as I can to not bore you for as long as I'm allowed. Also, boo to Dolly Parton's and Tim Curry's passing. Terrible plot twist. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Hublot Orlinski's on hold, the Seiko Sportura sold for €1,350, the Breitling Tabarly for €760, and the Yema Tomahawk for £800. Strays I have failed to highlight fun skin divers over the last couple of weeks, so let me ameliorate that lack with this Dupont and this LIP. They share identical all-steel skin diver cases; the differences in their bezels are awfully minor, and the Dupont's got a bracelet, so maybe that's enough of a needle-mover. This Breguet Chronoscope pocketwatch in platinum's not in perfect condition—the dial's got a few spots—but it is also incredibly gorgeous, the design is fantastic, and Monaco Legend Group sold a silver version in 2023 for €16,000, so plan accordingly. I could be wrong, but it looks like this ultra-thin solid gold quartz Jaeger was made by other brands as well, among them Bulova (who called their version a Phantom) and Microma (appare...

Go Big or Go Home: Fears Adds Its First High Complication with a QP Worn & Wound
Fears Adds Aug 28, 2026

Go Big or Go Home: Fears Adds Its First High Complication with a QP

Fears has decided to add its first high complication by tackling one of the most complex of them all: the perpetual calendar. Charting new territory seems like just the right way to celebrate the brand’s 10th anniversary since its renaissance in 2016. The introduction of a QP to the flagship Brunswick line isn’t the only headline. The collection gets a new case architecture with wide polished bevels making it the thinnest Brunswick watch in the line at 9.4mm. The Brunswick has been a defining collection for Fears since its introduction in 2017, marking the first mechanical line of the modern era. Yet, the collection is also an homage to the brand’s past with a vintage-inspired cushion shape case, onion crown, and signature sector dial. The design mixes these aesthetics with distinct typography and numerals derived from a piece from the brand’s archives. It only feels fitting that this collection would serve as the foundation for Fears’ first high complication in 180 years.Even with the addition of day, date, month, year, and leap year indications that make up a perpetual calendar, Fears has managed to keep the Brunswick QP compact at just 39mm. When it comes to high complications, the composition of the movement is usually the main limiting factor when it comes to sizing. Here, we can thank the Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module, atop a hand-finished Sellita SW300 as its base movement. This caliber has been modified specifically for this watch, giving it its...

Hands-On: The Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Cardinal Points Aug 27, 2026

Hands-On: The Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller

There were three watches I was disappointed to have missed at Watches & Wonders. To be fair, I missed all the releases at Watches & Wonders this year, but in my mind, the three most interesting watches from the show were the Vacheron Constantin Overseas "Cardinal Points," the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux, and this watch from Laurent Ferrier: the Sport Traveller. I like the Laurent Ferrier brand a lot. But I've been wondering whether, in hindsight, I was a bit harsh on their entry-level Sport Auto when it was released in 2023. I liked the watch in theory, but in practice I had a few minor issues with the bracelet fit and tolerance, the thickness, and the price. I know a few people who own the watch, and my feelings have softened over time. But reading that old review, I wonder if I was right or just picking nits. This year's release of the Sport Traveller combined one of my two favorite complications—travel time/GMT—with lightweight titanium, which seems to be le matériel du jour.  It also gave me a chance to reevaluate my take on the watch, especially in a market that's become even more crowded and an audience that's more price-sensitive. Let's tackle the specs first and then move on to the feelings. Measuring 42mm by 13.3mm thick in grade 5 titanium, with 100m of water resistance, the watch is only 0.5mm wider and 0.6mm thicker than the original Sport Auto, which shows the strength of the movement design in being able to pack an extra complic...

Dispatch: Diving With Force Blue And Luminox For Reef Restoration In Miami Hodinkee
Luminox Aug 26, 2026

Dispatch: Diving With Force Blue And Luminox For Reef Restoration In Miami

Luminox is honoring its partnership with Force Blue by releasing a new Pacific Diver reference designed around the pair's shared mission to protect and rehabilitate the world's oceans. Luminox has a long history of working with branches of the US Military since their founding in 1989, but their relationship with Force Blue is a bit different. To better understand their mission and get a first look at a new watch built around the partnership, I hopped on a plane down to Miami with fins and mask in hand, ready to dive with the team. Many brands claim working relationships with military outfits, each with varying degrees of formality. Whether it's a licensed relationship to use military trademarks, or even individual service members using their personal watches, the link between a brand and the act of service can be difficult to judge at a glance. For Luminox, that connection was baked in from the get-go. In 1992, founder Barry Cohen worked with Assistant Research, Development, Test and Evaluation (RDT&E;) Officer Nick North to develop a watch specifically for the Navy SEALs using their tritium tube-based Luminox Light Technology (LLT). The Navy SEAL watch was the first stone in what would become a broad foundation of work with special forces and law enforcement groups worldwide. It's a foundation that Mondain would continue to lean on after acquiring a stake in the brand in 2006 and full ownership in 2016. Today, Luminox maintains a licensing relationship with the US Navy SEA...

Tantalizing Tantalum: The Atelier Wen × Massena Lab Inflection Shuò Fratello
Girard-Perregaux movement was ambitious Now Aug 26, 2026

Tantalizing Tantalum: The Atelier Wen × Massena Lab Inflection Shuò

Truth be told, the original Atelier Wen Inflection already felt like a statement. A young brand executing an integrated-bracelet sports watch in 99.9% pure tantalum, pairing it with grand feu enamel, and backing it with a customized Girard-Perregaux movement was ambitious. Now comes the Inflection Shuò, a collaboration with New York-based Massena Lab that elevates […] Visit Tantalizing Tantalum: The Atelier Wen × Massena Lab Inflection Shuò to read the full article.

This Limited Nodus Dive Watch Uses Sapphire for More Than the Crystal Two Broke Watch Snobs
Nodus Dive Watch Uses Sapphire Aug 25, 2026

This Limited Nodus Dive Watch Uses Sapphire for More Than the Crystal

There are plenty of ways to make a limited-edition dive watch look different. New colors are easy. Changing the dial material is increasingly common. Nodus and Holme & Hadfield took a cooler route with their new Sector II Dive H&H; Edition, and most of the change happens within a few millimeters of vertical space above the dial.

Introducing: A New Generation Of The Omega Speedmaster 38 MM Hodinkee
Omega Speedmaster 38 MM What Aug 25, 2026

Introducing: A New Generation Of The Omega Speedmaster 38 MM

What We Know Say goodbye to oval subdials—Omega just announced a complete refresh of the brand's midsize Speedmaster 38mm collection. In total, there are seven new models replacing the outgoing lineup. The black-dialed variant, ref 324.30.38.50.01.002, draws on the look of the classic Moonwatch. 324.30.38.50.04.001 324.30.38.50.02.003 If the previous generation of the Speedmaster 38mm took a more luxe, fashion-forward approach, the new design language returns to form with more Moonwatch-adjacent styling. Not only are the oval subdials gone, but the bezel also takes a more traditional turn with a classic wide insert.  The Moonwatch reference is even more pointed with the inclusion of the dot-over-ninety numbering on the insert's tachymeter, as well as an updated bracelet that feels like a shrunken-down version of the current five-link Moonwatch bracelet, down to the clasp with Omega's "comfort release" micro-adjust system that offers two positions and 2.3mm of adjustment. Across the board, the new refresh also sees a cleaned-up dial with less printed text and an applied Omega logo at 12 o'clock. Across the seven new variations, three are set in steel—a matte black Moonwatch-like dial with a black aluminum insert (and no date window at six o'clock), a glossy lacquered white dial with blue ceramic bezel insert (not too far off from the Milano Cortina edition we saw released last October), and a silver dial with a grey aluminum bezel insert and PVD-coated Sedna Gold hands...

Announcements: Geneva Watch Days 2026 Will Take Place September 2-6 Hodinkee
Girard-Perregaux Aug 24, 2026

Announcements: Geneva Watch Days 2026 Will Take Place September 2-6

It's hard to believe that Geneva Watch Days, a watch fair that began in 2020 with fewer than 20 participating brands, now welcomes 68 watchmakers for its seventh edition. Taking place September 2-6, Geneva Watch Days has grown into one of the year's most jam-packed watch events, with brand presentations and launches spread across the city. Unlike traditional watch fairs like Watches and Watchers, Geneva Watch Days is decentralized, meaning that brands will present their latest creations at individual showrooms and locations across the city, rather than at one shared venue. At the center of the action is the Rotonde du Mont-Blanc, along the shores of Lake Geneva, where the event's Main Pavilion and Blue Box exhibition space will serve as central gathering points. The Pavilion will host discussions on the broader watch industry, while the Blue Box will showcase a curated selection of watches from different maisons in a themed exhibition. Five of the event's eight founding brands (Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, and MB&F;) will participate this year. They'll be joined by a diverse lineup of watchmakers, from major players like Zenith to independents such as Greubel Forsey, Ming, and Laurent Ferrier, many of whom will present new launches. On Thursday, there will also be a charity auction held by Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo. The sale's profits will help provide scholarships for students of Switzerland's oldest watchmaking school, École d'Horloge...

Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar Aug 24, 2026

Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar

The Roger Dubuis (RD) Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is something of a bridge across eras for RD, combining the brand’s seminal biretrograde calendar format with the 2000s-era Excalibur case, executed in RD’s current lavishly layered house style. The revised perpetual calendar module brings plenty of haute horlogerie finishing to the dial side, and should prove more reliable than past iterations as well. Initial thoughts The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual is a new model, but it feels like a watch that has always been around, combining several familiar Roger Dubuis elements. Chief among them is the biretrograde format, which has been a staple of the brand since its founding era. When the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar debuted last year, we speculated that a perpetual version was likely in the pipeline, and we didn’t have to wait long to find out. In terms of design, it’s pure RD through and through. The brand has offered glimpses of a return to its roots — the Hommage La Placide was well-received by neo-vintage enthusiasts — but it’s clear the brand remains committed to this bolder, more flamboyant vision of haute horlogerie that it has been championing since the launch of the Excalibur in 2005, albeit at a smaller size. Of course, the design won’t appeal to everyone, but that might be a good thing. Taste convergence favours the classics, but the polarising Excalibur aesthetic will appeal to those who appreciate traditional watchmaking but are ...