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The Swatch Group

Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.

Introducing: The CIGA Design × Label Noir Black Star Fratello
Jul 9, 2025

Introducing: The CIGA Design × Label Noir Black Star

CIGA Design continues to develop its GPHG-award-winning formula, first showcased on the Blue Planet. A customized movement utilizing an in-house complication displays the time in a manner distinct from a typical watch. The perfectly round, interstellar-like case often houses a dial featuring our planet. Today, that changes with the new CIGA Design × Label Noir […] Visit Introducing: The CIGA Design × Label Noir Black Star to read the full article.

Patek Philippe & Tiffany: The History Behind The Hype Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Jul 9, 2025

Patek Philippe & Tiffany: The History Behind The Hype

As longtime, mutually beneficial relationships in the world of high luxury go, the one between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. is perhaps the most quintessential. The esteemed Swiss watchmaker behind classic timepieces like the Calatrava and Nautilus and the elite retailer/jeweler renowned for its distinctive blue gift boxes have been partners for more than 170 years, and Patek Philippe watches with a Tiffany signature are among the rarest and most coveted items on a serious watch collector’s wishlist. In this feature, I explore the long and prestigious history behind Patek Philippe’s Tiffany watches and spotlight how the two world-famous brands continue to collaborate today.  Patek Philippe: The Origin Story The company that would be known as Patek Philippe had its foundation laid in 1839, when a Polish watchmaker named Antoni Norbert de Patek and his business partner, Czech-born François Czapek, partnered to form Patek, Czapek, & Cie, in Geneva. The company produced pocket watches for a relatively brief period before disagreements between the two founders precipitated the dissolving of the partnership, and the firm, by 1845. That same year, Patek began a new partnership with a French watchmaker named Adrien Philippe, whose historical claim to fame was the invention of the keyless winding system for watches. Together, they established a new company, Patek & Cie., to continue making watches, which officially became Patek, Philippe, & Cie. in 1851. That year was pivo...

Hands-on – The Majestic Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 Monochrome
Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 Jul 9, 2025

Hands-on – The Majestic Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035

A 250th anniversary is already a remarkable achievement for a watch brand, but a 250th anniversary celebrating the undisputed horological star of the 18th century, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is quite another. Pulling out all the stops to commemorate this illustrious milestone, Breguet has released a series of anniversary editions, including the magnificent Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 […]

Defying Expectations: Hands-On with the Zenith Defy Revival Shadow Diver Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Revival Shadow Diver Jul 9, 2025

Defying Expectations: Hands-On with the Zenith Defy Revival Shadow Diver

When the Zenith Defy Revival diver was released last year, I somehow missed it. I didn’t see it when it passed through the office, nor at any press events, and honestly, I just didn’t take notice of articles. I guess I was busy. While unfortunate in one sense, perhaps it was for the best, as my first in-person experience with it was with its follow-up model, the Zenith Defy Revival Shadow, and I was immediately taken. Small, dark, weird, vintage-y, and yet also with a 90s vibe, it sank its titanium teeth into me fast. I’m not surprised, to be honest, as the “shadow” watches by Zenith have been their coolest models in the last several years, at least to yours truly. An aesthetic outlier within their collection, these occasional brooding models utilize not just the best-metal-for-a-sports-watchTM, titanium, but also a unique micro-blasting, which gives them a charcoal tone that is more nuanced than black coatings. Light and dark in one package, I’m surprised I don’t already have a Shadow in my watch box. The Shadow Treatment But, even among the Shadow models, the Defy Revival stands out. It’s a remarkably compact, tough tool watch with unique vintage styling that comes to life with shocks of neon yellow. The only shadow model to use a color, Zenith wasn’t shy, and it paid off. A love it or leave it hue, it was a risk. This is the kind of unexpected design choice that will make me take notice of a brand. To use an expression I truly hate, “I see you,” Ze...

Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver 38 Seafoam Fratello
Jul 9, 2025

Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver 38 Seafoam

Last December, I had a chance to go hands-on with the Diver One Snow from Wren Watches. This brand is the brainchild of Wrist Enthusiast founder Craig Karger, and the first efforts went over very well with watch fans. Labeled as a passion project, the Diver One and its success might lead to something much […] Visit Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver 38 Seafoam to read the full article.

Parmigiani Turns to Cermet for the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph SJX Watches
Jul 9, 2025

Parmigiani Turns to Cermet for the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

Sportier and a little more affordable than its more elegant cousin, Parmigiani’s Tonda PF Sport was originally available only in steel. The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet swaps out that conventional alloy for a case of cermet, a composite of ceramic and metal. Notably, the entire case – bezel, case middle, pushers, and crown – is in cermet. Initial thoughts Parmigiani has iterated its popular sports into many variations, perhaps too many, but the Tonda PF Sport in cermet is one of the most interesting so far. While the material is not new to watches, it is usually employed for one or two components, typically the bezel. The new Tonda PF Sport Chronograph is almost all cermet, which is gives it an appealing a single-tone appearance that goes well with the clean styling. The new chronograph is available in Milano Blue (left), and London Grey Material aside, it is essentially identical to earlier versions of the Tonda Sport PF Chronograph. Though it is little changed in fundamental terms, that’s not necessarily a bad thing as the PF070 movement inside ranks amongst one of the most sophisticated chronograph calibres, especially in sports watches. The only downside of the new material is the price hike. The cermet model is basically a 50% premium over the steel version, which the brand will not doubt justify in terms of machining and polishing complexity, but it is still difficult to rationalise. The PF070 Ceramic and metal Cermet is a composite of ceramic and...

The Konstantin Chaykin Joker Meets Behrens’ Ultra Light SJX Watches
Behrens Ultra Light Building Jul 9, 2025

The Konstantin Chaykin Joker Meets Behrens’ Ultra Light

Building on the Russian watchmaker’s signature Joker timepiece, the Behrens x Konstantin Chaykin Ace of Hearts blends the European court jester with its Chinese counterpart – contained with Behren’s ultra-light, trapezoid wristwatch that was first launched in 2023 as the Ultra-Light 11G. Initial Thoughts One of a new breed of inventive Chinese watchmakers, Behrens has always excelled at novelty watches, thanks to a combination of creativity and competitive pricing. This sets it apart from both its domestic and international competition. European manufacturers in the same price range simply can’t develop base movements or even custom modules for small production runs, at least economically, while only a few other Chinese brands have built enough credibility outside the country to sell five- to six-figure watches internationally. The Ace of Hearts exemplifies what Behrens does well – while also being a collaboration with an established European independent watchmaker. The brand’s earlier collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin was well received, but didn’t stand out from other Wristmon models in terms of styling, so it’s good to see a new direction with the Ace of Hearts. In fact, the Ace of Hearts stands out even in comparison to the ever-growing Wristmon family. I find the sapphire case models most interesting, as the transparent case suits the airy construction of the movement and importantly, they are priced reasonably compared to Swiss brands. Movement The...

Hands-on – The SPB519, The Updated Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT That Does It All Monochrome
Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver Jul 9, 2025

Hands-on – The SPB519, The Updated Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT That Does It All

Seiko‘s dive watch legacy is long and rich, yet surprisingly, a mechanical diver with a GMT complication only joined the catalogue in 2023. The SPB381/383and SPB385 laid the groundwork with their “caller GMT x Diver” design, and earlier this year, the SPB509 brought meaningful improvements, including 300m water resistance and a micro-adjustable clasp, wrapped in […]

In A Royal Oak and Nautilus World, Why I Love The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Deep Stream Chronograph Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Deep Stream Chronograph Jul 9, 2025

In A Royal Oak and Nautilus World, Why I Love The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Deep Stream Chronograph

Ask and ye shall receive, dear readers! Well, within reason. Quill & Pad reader and frequent commenter Greg has been after GaryG for a while to write a piece on his Vacheron Constantin Overseas Deep Stream Chronograph, most recently in response to Gary's article on three “keepers” from his collection that don’t get a lot of wrist time. Gary didn’t include the Deep Stream on that list as it is a quite frequent wearer for him, but now its time in the spotlight has come.

DUG: The New Kids on the Block in Glashütte Worn & Wound
Nomos s workshops Jul 8, 2025

DUG: The New Kids on the Block in Glashütte

On a warm and sunny Saturday in June, I visited the inauguration ceremony for DUG workshop. DUG (Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte) is the eleventh company to establish itself in the watchmaking town of Glashütte. The last brand to open a workshop in this town were young independent duo, Kallinich Claeys.  The DUG workshop is just around the corner from Lange HQ, across from Glashütte Watch Museum, and on the steep road leading up to one of Nomos’s workshops. The building previously belonged to C.H. Wolf, and there is still some old signage around the building. It is a modern and fairly large building for a micro-brand to occupy. It has tall ceilings and a row of new watchmaker benches along with a few administrative and conference rooms. It could easily host a medium size watch company. The DUG workshop Toni Brodführer, founder and Managing Director of DUG, is planning to move in there before the end of the year with three watchmakers. He is also open to sharing the space with other small watch companies. At the opening ceremony, I was pleased to run into Thibault Claeys and Johannes Kallinich, who were impressed by the building and seemed to like what Toni is doing. Before I get back to my observations about the brand and the newest watches, I interviewed Toni to get some background and context of owning and operating a new micro-brand in Glashütte.  Toni’s journey of DUG began with a personal passion for watches. He had been fascinated with watches since his...

Introducing – The Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Taupe… Surprisingly Streamlined Monochrome
Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Taupe… Jul 8, 2025

Introducing – The Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Taupe… Surprisingly Streamlined

Hublot… A brand that brings heated conversations and opinions. Hublot is surely known for its bold moves, disruptive materials and colours you can spot across the room. Baby blue sapphire case, snake pattern on the bezel, multicoloured ceramic that looks… questionable. You name it. Yet, Hublot also knows how to use its signature Classic Fusion […]

First Look – The New Schwarz Etienne 1902 Réserve de Marche, a Contemporary Classic Rooted in Tradition Monochrome
Schwarz Etienne 1902 Réserve de Marche Jul 8, 2025

First Look – The New Schwarz Etienne 1902 Réserve de Marche, a Contemporary Classic Rooted in Tradition

The romantically inclined would agree that there is a certain intimacy in winding a watch by hand, a moment of pause, intention, and awareness of time’s passage. With its latest creation, the 1902 Réserve de Marche, Schwarz Etienne invites that quiet ritual back into the rhythm of daily life, full of automatically performed actions. Building […]

Dialed-In: the NOMOS Minimatik 39 and a Summer Wedding Style Guide Worn & Wound
Nomos Minimatik 39 Jul 7, 2025

Dialed-In: the NOMOS Minimatik 39 and a Summer Wedding Style Guide

Editor’s Note: Today, Brett Braley-Palko kicks off a new series. Dialed-In is an irreverent take on the classic style guide, with practical style suggestions for specific situations, built around watches we love. Today, as we barrel into the height of summer, Brett considers the challenges of dressing for a summer wedding with the NOMOS Minimatik 39 laying the groundwork. There is a difference between dressing and styling. Dressing is what I’m doing right now while I type this: I have on a pair of shorts from high school and a Rolling Stones t-shirt I got on sale at Urban Outfitters. But styling? That’s a bit harder to define – and even harder to achieve. While we all want to put our best foot forward, sartorially speaking, it ain’t easy, folks. You have to think about fit, cut, fabric, color. And while many of us know the basics, sometimes mastering a few practical tips is all it takes to look (and feel!) your best. And there’s no better place to get a masterclass on dressing well than a Summer wedding, where you’re not only navigating those pesky sartorial rules, but trying to figure out what the hell the invitation meant by “black tie casual” and how to not sweat through your jacket before the ceremony even starts.  Building an Outfit Looking good for a Summer wedding isn’t impossible, but it does require a little more pre-planning than, say, the usual black-suit-white-shirt ensemble that’s the default for the cooler months. Summer allows for peop...