Revolution
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Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.
Chronograph scale converting flash-to-sound time into distance. WWI artillery-spotting origin; vintage Longines / Lemania / Heuer.
Chronograph scale reading heart rate in BPM after counting 15 or 30 pulse beats. The 1920s-60s doctor\'s watch standard.
Revolution
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SIHH 2015: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph
IWC listens to its collectors and have shrunk the yacht club chrono. It is now 43mm instead of the 45mm it once was. A great move by the brand by any standards.
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IWC Pilot Chronograph Top Gun: An Airman’s Perspective (Part 1): The Collector’s View
As some of the readers may know, I am currently an Airman (not a pilot though) in the Republic of Singapore Air Force. Being a watch enthusiast, I tend to observe and interact with other airmen, and gaining an insight on the kind of watches that they are wearing. This sort of leads me to question the existenceRead More
Revolution
Blast From The Past: The Roger Dubuis Hommage Chronograph
When talented watchmaker Mr. Roger Dubuis decided to launch his own brand in 1995, he sought inspiration in the innovations and techniques pioneered by Swiss watchmakers of the past. “I decided I wanted to create a watch to thank my teachers, friends and all those who had helped me learn and perfect my art,” shared […]
Revolution
Old School Meets High-Tech: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic
Jaeger-LeCoultre is a modern manufacture, often taking the lead in new developments coming from a stellar reputation when it comes to movement design and development. Yet, they will not give up on proven “old school” technology and craftsmanship until something new has clearly demonstrated that it is better as well. This approach has been part […]
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The Best New Vintage Inspired Military Chronograph Under $300? - Dan Henry 1945 Watch Review
Revolution
Piaget Polo Chronograph; A Contemporary Classic
Sometimes a watch manufacturer releases a model that seems to catch the spirit of the market so well, that it transcends to the status of an icon. Such a thing happened for Piaget in 1979, when they first introduced the Piaget Polo. This all gold watch with integrated bracelet, captured, as no other watch, the luxurious and […]
Revolution
Air Time: The Alpina 130 Heritage Pilot Chronograph
Arguably one of Alpina’s breakout hits of 2013, the Alpina 130 has been a thoroughly enjoyable watch to wear. It’s based on a vintage model from the early 20th century and in terms of design, it’s quite a faithful take on the original model. The watch comes in two variations – one is stainless steel, […]
Revolution
Just For Good Reasons; Piaget Polo FortyFive Chronograph
Piaget has always had, and still has, the company policy that they only craft watches out of gold or platinum. Presumptuous? No, Piaget simply knows its own strength. For decades they have delighted the world with some of the most refined precious metal watch cases, and bracelets, the industry has seen. It is therefore not […]
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The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph
One of my favourite watch making house is the often overlooked Seiko. They have a long history and tradition of making fine timepieces as well as of innovation. But most collectors focus too much on Swiss timepieces. But yes, Virginia, excellent watches do come from outside Switzerland. Germany, and increasingly England, and of course Japan.Read More
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Hard to Find Seiko Diver, a Dressy Omega, and a Couple of Cool Vintage Chronos
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Seiko Sportsmatic SilverWave 69799 Starting off this week with a killer vintage Seiko, and one you don’t see for sale often. This 1964 Sportsmatic SilverWave is just really cool. The SilverWave is one of Seiko’s earliest divers, with a water resistance rating of 30 meters and an internal rotating countdown bezel. The 38mm steel case is a great size, and it’s in good shape. The original crown is at 4 o’clock, and when it’s in the “in” position, you can turn it to rotate the inner bezel. The silver dial is nice, showing a touch of aging as is the bezel. The snap-on caseback still shows the Seiko wave log and the serial number which dates it to April 1964. The automatic movement is clean and it runs well per the seller. This comes on a Seiko beads of rice bracelet which isn’t original, but looks great. Nice example of a hard to find early Seiko diver! View auction here Vintage Bulova Chronograph Here’s a real beauty, a vintage Bulova chronograph that features a stunning slate blue dial with dual silver subdials. The 37mm squarish case looks good, still exhibiting the original brushed finish on the top. The dial looks mint, with nice steel stick markers and hands. Ther...
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Weirdest Seiko EVER? SLQ007 Kinetic Chronograph - The Jay Leno Seiko with a 9T82 High-end Kinetic
Worn & Wound
Gears and Gaskets: Spotting Mechanical Icons on Wrist and Road at the Lime Rock Historic Festival 43
Each Labor Day weekend for the last 42 years, the quiet hillsides of Northwestern Connecticut boom to life with sounds from a bygone era as vintage engines triumphantly roar to life on the circuit. This year, the 43rd Historic Festival, was my first year joining the action. Now, Lime Rock is not just a celebration of motorsports’ golden era spent staring at showpiece collector cars from behind a velvet rope, but rather a gathering of people for whom mechanical beauty and intricacy hold enduring appeal. David Von Bader with a late 1970s Heuer Montreal Ref. 750-503N As such, I entered under the assumption that while lifting bonnets, wrenching on bolts, polishing headlights, and lubricating gaskets, there would be some level of horological enthusiasm slipping out from under the cuff. Walking from the hillside into the paddock, it was immediately clear that the connection between car culture and horology held true. Breaking free from the distraction on track as the yellow pitbull 1965 Mini Cooper chased down a few vintage Porsches and BMWs, my eye snagged on a disk of gold glistening in the mechanics’ pit. There, wrenching away in a Jaguar mechanics jacket under a 1952 Jaguar XK120 propped up on stilts was James Alder from Reno, Nevada. Hands covered in grease, Jim was not gentle with the precious tool that slipped in and out of his cuff as he reached for engine fittings, trying to diagnose his firing problems. On his wrist sat a vintage Breitling Premier Chronograph from ...
Worn & Wound
Our Favorite Quartz Watches
We love quartz watches at Worn & Wound for a huge variety of reasons. Very often, a quartz watch is someone’s first watch, the watch that sets them down a path of enthusiasm and collecting that so many of us are familiar with. Quartz watches are often (but not always) an affordable alternative to a mechanical watch that doesn’t need to sacrifice anything in terms of design. Also, the technology is just incredibly cool, and so many great watchmaking minds have contributed to refining it and making it even better over the years. We decided to ask our editorial team members to write a little bit about their favorite quartz watches. Some of these are watches they own personally, some are historic, and others are just fun examples of watches that might not make as much sense with a mechanical movement. Be sure to let us know what your favorite quartz watch is in the comments below. Zach Weiss – Seiko Sportura SLQ009 Kinetic Chronograph Well, this is an easy one for me, as I happen to have it in my collection: the Seiko Sportura SLQ009 Kinetic Chronograph. Where to even begin with this one… I’ll start by explaining why I like it. Long before I was properly afflicted with the watch-collecting-itis, I was simply a teenager in NYC with an appreciation for watches. My dad and I would occasionally go to the Tourneau TimeMachine on 57th Street for fun on the weekends, and for a time, they had a Seiko Kinetic Chronograph on display. It had, as I recall, a special vitrin...
Worn & Wound
Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop - A Limited Edition Watch for the 2025 Ride to Conquer Cancer
If you’ve been keeping up with our Ride to Conquer Cancer (RTCC) initiative, you already know the story: a two-day, 200km cycling challenge supporting the Princess Margaret Cancer Centre, and a team of riders rallying together to raise funds and awareness. You’ve seen the custom StrapHabit x Worn & Wound RTCC Strap (still available here, with 100% of proceeds donated). Today, we’re adding the next piece to the project – the BOLDR Conquer Limited Edition Chronograph. Designed by longtime friend and RTCC rider Matt Smith-Johnson and built by BOLDR, this special edition chronograph is limited to just 100 units, with $80 from every sale going directly to our RTCC fundraiser. This isn’t just a commemorative piece - it’s a fully capable tool watch with thoughtful details and purpose baked into every element. The BOLDR Conquer Limited Edition Chronograph retails for $399, and with every purchase, $80 goes directly to our RTCC fundraising campaign - no percentages, no fine print. Each watch ships with two straps: the StrapHabit sailcloth strap many of you already know and love, plus an additional green nylon strap fitted with custom titanium hardware. It’s a rugged, ready-for-anything combo that suits the spirit of the ride. This limited edition marks a first for BOLDR: the Venture case scaled up to 41mm, crafted in titanium for a perfect balance of durability and lightness. It measures 12.2mm thick, with a lug-to-lug of 46mm and a 20mm lug width, making it a sol...
SJX Watches
Auction: Space-Flown Watches From a Rolex GMT-Master to Omega Speedmasters
Ahead of the international watch auction season that kicks off in a few weeks, Boston-based RR Auction has opened an online auction that will interest those hunting especially rare, space-flown watches. Simply titled Space, the auction is focused primarily on space memorabilia, and includes three space-flown wristwatches that warrant a closer look, including a French astronaut’s Speedmaster that spent almost six hours in space. Known for its sales focused on historical memorabilia, particularly those relating to space exploration, RR Auction has notched up several notable watch sales in the past, including a Bulova chronograph worn on the Moon that sold for almost US$1.6 million in 2015. We round up highlights from the upcoming sale, which closes October 24, 2024. The catalogue and bidding are available online. Lot 6286 – Rolex GMT-Master II flown on Apollo 14 by Edgar Mitchell First up is the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 1675 worn by astronaut Edgar Mitchell on the Apollo 14 mission that landed on the Moon in February 1971. Enhancing its appeal, the watch has tangible provenance: actually be seen in archival footage recording prior to take-off and in onboard footage taken during the mission. While the GMT-Master II was not uncommon among astronauts of that period – it was conceived as a watch for pilots after all – few actually made it to space. This example is only the second lunar Rolex to be sold publicly, after Ron Evans’s GMT-Master II worn on Apollo 17, whic...
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Type XX in Rose Gold and Ceramic
Having launched the latest-generation Type XX last year, Breguet is adding to the family with the Type XX Chronograph 2067 in rose gold, a new take on the “civilian” aviator’s chronograph. Inspired by a historical design, the latest Type XX features the a 12-hour bezel and three registers, along with a sophisticated, high-frequency chronograph movement. The cal. 728 Initial thoughts While the new Type XX is described by Breguet as being inspired by the vintage Type XX no. 1780 – one of just three vintage Type 20s in gold – it is an entirely modern watch in look and feel. The vintage inspiration is visible, but the colours, materials, and finishing bestow a polished, modern look, which is a good thing. This contrasts with last year’s Type XX in steel that tried too hard to look vintage with faux-aged lume and lance-shaped hands, which was at odds with the overall look and feel. The new Type XX, on the other hand, looks coherently contemporary. With a dial and hands resembling that of the 1990s-era Type XX, the new chronograph also looks more proportional and balanced, though it retains the same dimensions as last year’s model. Interestingly, though the new Type XX has the date window in exactly the same place as last year’s watch, the date does not look as obvious here. Priced at US$37,900, the new Type XX 2067 is more affordable than the competition. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 chronograph in pink gold, for example, retails for US$49,700. Admittedly, t...
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Heuer 510 501 Ready to take Flight - I bought a Vintage Heuer Chronograph Lemania 5100
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Highlights: Phillips Geneva Online Auction Fall 2024
The fall auction season kicks off with online auctions, before the primary live sales that take place in November. Phillips in Geneva just opened its online auction with a 70-lot offering of the familiar and mainstream (think Aquanaut, Royal Oak, and Nautilus), but also the esoteric and independent, ranging from an Alain Silberstein perpetual calendar made by Svend Andersen to a Seiko Izul “bullhead” chronograph. We round up a few highlights from the sale, which runs from September 5-12, 2024, with the catalogue and bidding available online. Lot 9 – Alain Silberstein Marine Perpetual Calendar by Svend Andersen Part of Alain Silberstein’s Marine series of dive watches, the Marine Perpetual is a COSC-certified perpetual calendar in a case rated to 200 m. It’s equipped with a clever, double-sided perpetual calendar movement developed by Svend Andersen. Built on an ETA 2892, the perpetual calendar has a minimalist display with only the date on the dial that’s decorated in Silberstein’s trademark style with geometric shapes, primary colours, along with a starfish, crescent, and sun. On the reverse is the months and leap year in a single register that is mounted on the periphery of the movement, allowing the rotor to travel below the indicator. The Marine Perpetual was a limited edition of 100 watches, though it is likely fewer were made, since they are rarely encountered. It was one of several collaborations that Alain Silberstein in the 1990s with prominent in...
Worn & Wound
Roundup: Pilot’s Watches, An Affordable Perpetual Calendar, and Great Deal on Bauhaus-Inspired Design
Laco’s newest pilot chronograph blends the German brand’s aviation heritage into a modern ultra-capable tool watch. With one foot planted in the past and the other in the future, the Kiel Sport is a contemporary take on the classic Flieger, weaving a Type A dial into a tri-compax chronograph. Laco’s newest pilot chronograph blends the German brand’s aviation heritage into a modern ultra-capable tool watch. With one foot planted in the past and the other in the future, the Kiel Sport is a contemporary take on the classic Flieger, weaving a Type A dial into a tri-compax chronograph. The post Roundup: Pilot’s Watches, An Affordable Perpetual Calendar, and Great Deal on Bauhaus-Inspired Design appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Our Favorite Releases from Watches & Wonders Week
With Watches & Wonders in the books and a few weeks of space from the deluge of new releases, it’s time to look back on the show and figure out what really spoke to us. It was, by most accounts, a somewhat slow year for new releases, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t a lot of great watches to choose from for a retrospective article like this. And for this exercise, we’re not limiting ourselves to watches exhibited at Watches & Wonders proper, either. There were literally hundreds of brands with new watches to show throughout the city of Geneva during Watches & Wonders week. We didn’t see them all, but we caught as many as we could, and these are the watches that stand out as favorites. Stay tuned tomorrow for favorites from our roster of contributors! Zach Weiss I usually have difficulty picking favorites after events like Watches & Wonders. One sees so much, so quickly, that making judgments is difficult, and what’s left in one’s mind after is sort of an image cloud of memories. No single thing overtakes any other. But this year was different. Since the show, I’ve found myself thinking about two watches, or rather, one watch and one case/movement combo. The watch is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon in platinum. Yes, I’ve gone full fancy pants and chosen a nearly six-figure watch, but hear me out… it was gorgeous. Admittedly, the Duometre line is one that I’ve had a bit of a fascination with over the last year or so, as the original...
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Breaking News: Michael Schumacher’s AP Royal Oak, F.P. Journe Vagabondage at Christie’s
The spring sale season that kicks off in Geneva come mid May will no doubt include many top lots across the three major auction houses, but Christie’s will claim two of the most compelling watches to go on the block: an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph and F.P. Journe Vagabondage, both unique pieces made for Michael Schumacher. Gifts from longtime Scuderia Ferrari manager Jean Todt, each watch features a custom dial commemorating Mr Schumacher’s unprecedented streak of Formula 1 world championships, as well as commemorative engraving on the back. The pair come straight from the Schumacher collection, consigned by his family along with a handful of other watches. Mr Schumacher’s watches will be offered at Christie’s Rare Watches auction taking place on May 13, 2024 in Geneva. Initial thoughts I follow F1 casually and I usually don’t like watches with emblems on the dial – the Vagabondage has 11 logos on the hour scale – but these two watches are exceptionally desirable in my eyes, particularly the Vagabondage, which is incredible for its rarity and provenance. The watches capture Mr Schumacher’s remarkable racing career – his seven world championships tie him with Lewis Hamilton as the all-time record holders – evoking the glamour and prestige of Formula 1 but also the longstanding association between watchmakers and auto racing that arguably started with sports chronographs like the Daytona and Carrera in the 1960s. At the same time, the watches il...
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Chris Plant
Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Chris Plant, aka @mister_wrist_er on Instagram, gives us a look at a trio of watches from his own collection that fit the $5,000 collection bill perfectly. These watches suit his lifestyle and needs, which you can read more about on his own blog, misterwrister.ca, where he documents his horological journey, including the three watches below. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. The three watches that I chose make up a perfectly balanced collection for me. I have the rugged, Swiss quartz dive watch that will never fail me even in the deepest depths, the deliciously vintage inspired dress watch for life’s more refined situations, and a steel sports watch that has the ideal mix of historical significance, robust capability and generational provenance. Tissot Seastar Chronograph 1000 (Ref. T120.417.17.041.00) – $550 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Mister Wrister (@mister_wrist_er) When I began building my watch collection, I needed to find a watch that would become my Go Anywhere Do Anything choice. I had several criteria in mind. Firstly, it needed to be a watch capable of keeping up with my lifestyle, whether it was running with my Pomsky puppy in the park, wandering across the busy streets of Montreal, or hiking on one of the numerous mountain trails outside city. Secondly, it had to be a dive watch. Strapping on...
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NEW A. Lange & Söhne 2023 Watches REVEALED! Odysseus Chronograph
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Squale, Universal Geneve, and More Vintage LED Discoveries
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Universal Geneve Polerouter With eBay, some weeks are slim pickin’s and some weeks the bounty is plentiful. This week it’s the latter. Starting off this week with a bang, with this amazing vintage Universal Geneve Polerouter with Microtor movement. This example is the classic black dialed, no date version and it is stunning. Gerald Genta’s Polerouter design is an absolute masterclass on aesthetic design. From those sexy bombe lungs to the crosshair black dial with the signature fluted outer dial ring down to the Universal Geneve signed crown and Polerouter logo caseback, it’s just pure beauty. This example looks to be all original and in very good condition with the only issue I see being there is some corrosion on the hands. The watch needs an external cleaning to be sure, but I love finding vintage watches with all the funk on them, it just means it was worn and loved and hasn’t been messed with! If you’ve been wanting one of these, take a close look at this gem! View auction here. Vintage Seiko Chronograph 6139 How do you follow a vintage Polerouter? With arguably one of the most famous and popular Seiko chronographs, that’s how! This vintage Seiko 6139-6005 ...
Worn & Wound
Inside the Collection: Common Threads Through Uncommon Chronographs
I am not a chronograph guy. At least that’s what I keep telling myself. I’ve owned my share of chronographs over the years, but they always seem to be first on the chopping block when something new comes along that I need to clear out space for. They also, in general, don’t appeal to me aesthetically. I tend to like a less cluttered, more serene dial than what you’ll find on a typical chronograph, simply because of the nature of the complication itself. And I certainly don’t belong in the nerdiest segment of chronograph lovers, who have deeply held beliefs about the best chronograph movements ever made, and can rattle off the most minute differences between Speedmaster references at the drop of a hat. I admire the dedication and knowledge of these hardcore chronograph superfans, but I’ve never counted myself among them. And yet, day to day, the watch I’ve worn the most by far over the last year is a chronograph that flies in the face of everything I tend to think about my own watch preferences. And if you were to ask me, “Hey Zach, out of all of your watches, which one has your favorite dial?” I’d have to respond with another chronograph, that has one of the most intricate and beautifully made dials I’ve had the pleasure of owning. So what’s going on here? How did such a non-chrono guy wind up with this weird chrono subcollection? My IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Ceratanium has effectively become my daily wearer since picking it up last sum...
SJX Watches
Insight: The Ingenuity of the F.P. Journe Centigraphe
Modern mechanical chronograph movements have mostly been conceived according to two standardised recipes. One is the vertical clutch approach exemplified by the the sporty, performance oriented cal. 4131 inside the Rolex Daytona, while the other is the classical, lateral coupling architecture used by the celebrated L951.1 in the Lange Datograph. Sticking with a successful architecture is no bad thing, after all, chronographs are complicated enough in their basic form. However, there are some chronographs that stand out for being truly original, like the F.P. Journe Centigraphe and its cal. 1506. Constructed like no other chronograph on the market, the Centigraphe seeks to measure times with a resolution of 1/100th of a second with a unique movement that is modern in its approach yet subtly references the work of John Harrison. In many ways it encapsulates the philosophy of François-Paul Journe, which prizes original, creative watchmaking that pays tribute to historical greats. The cal. 1506 Despite its achievements, the Centigraphe is overshadowed by the brand’s signature watches, namely the Resonance and Tourbillon Souverain, and remains one of of F.P. Journe’s less-known offerings. Paradoxically, the Centigraphe should be more recognised than most other F.P. Journe watches because has a tangible link to the world of celebrity with its Formula 1 provenance, having been conceived at the suggestion of Jean Todt, the former boss of Ferrari’s Formula 1 team. Although...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Iconic Chronographs & Jumping Hours
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bulova White Prince Jump Hour First up this week we have a really special one. This 1932 Bulova White Prince jump hour / direct read dress watch is truly rare, and this example is in superb condition. I used to collect these 1930’s Deco Bulovas and this has to be the nicest one I’ve ever seen. The hour, minute and seconds are shown on rotating discs through the viewports cut into the case. I mean, does it get any cooler than this?? The 26mm chrome plated case is in excellent condition and looks super sharp. Seller states the caliber 10AT movement has been serviced and runs well. The time discs look original and quite nice with some patina. These really don’t show up for sale all that often, especially in this condition. If this “jumps” out at you, don’t let it slip away. View auction here. Vintage Vulcain Chronograph Vulcain may be famous for their iconic alarm watches, but they also made a plethora of other models, including this simple classic two register chronograph. The silver dial is really clean and has nice big chono subdials. Large stick hands with lume lines in them make this one really easy to read. The case is chrome plated with a steel back, but there doesn’...
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Review: hands-on with the new Louis Moinet Time to Race
Our hands on comprehensive review of the new Louis Moinet Memoris Time to Race, sporting chronograph. Limited Edition series.
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