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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

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Baltic Farer Jan 21, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 72: A Year in Watches 2023 – Lorier, Baltic, Farer, and Friends!

Welcome to episode 72 of A Week in Watches. This week’s episode is part two of A Year in Watches 2023. This week, we focus on independent brands like Nodus, Lorier, Farer, Baltic, a fully American-made watch, and more. Naturally, there was way too much to cover again, so these were just a few highlights. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The best way to start the new year is a new watch. Head over to WindupWatchShop.com to check out new watches, limited editions, accessories, EDC, clocks, and more. The holidays are over, it’s time to get yourself something nice. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 72: A Year in Watches 2023 – Lorier, Baltic, Farer, and Friends! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Formex Reef 39.5mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Fratello
Formex Reef 39.5mm Vs Seiko Jan 21, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Formex Reef 39.5mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! We hope you woke up with a nice cup of coffee this Sunday morning and are ready to vote for your favorite watch in this week’s battle of the divers. This week, it’s going to be like David versus Goliath. In one corner, we have the new Formex Reef […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Formex Reef 39.5mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster to read the full article.

Have a Perfectly Fitting Watch Strap with this Tactile, Adjustable Strap Buckle by Roland Iten: It’s Both Useful and Relatively Affordable – That’s Win/Win! – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jan 20, 2024

Have a Perfectly Fitting Watch Strap with this Tactile, Adjustable Strap Buckle by Roland Iten: It’s Both Useful and Relatively Affordable – That’s Win/Win! – Reprise

Watch straps and buckles (both pin and folding) are the nearly ideal way to fit your watch to your wrist, but they have an inherent drawback: the standard holes in the strap are 8 mm apart, so unless you are very lucky you have to select a hole that either makes the strap too tight or too loose. The perfect answer is either paying for a custom strap and hoping that your wrist size doesn't change or a Roland Iten RWC09 adjustable buckle.

In-Depth – A Week in Japan with Grand Seiko Reveals Secrets of the Brand’s Unique Craftsmanship Monochrome
Grand Seiko Reveals Secrets Jan 19, 2024

In-Depth – A Week in Japan with Grand Seiko Reveals Secrets of the Brand’s Unique Craftsmanship

Stating that Grand Seiko is Japanese is like saying that the Eiffel Tower belongs to Paris. It seems so obvious at first that you might forget that France’s most famous monument wasn’t meant to become a permanent fixture. With Grand Seiko, the Japaneseness of the brand isn’t just about the location. It’s not about making […]

Exploring Evergreens: The Black-Dial Rolex Explorer II 16570 Fratello
Rolex Explorer II 16570 Jan 19, 2024

Exploring Evergreens: The Black-Dial Rolex Explorer II 16570

In our series Exploring Evergreens, we have a look at watches that have been around for some time.  These are watches that have stood the test of time to become archetypes, sometimes even icons. Today, I am covering the Rolex Explorer ref. 16570 in the black-dial execution. This is the most worn watch in my […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: The Black-Dial Rolex Explorer II 16570 to read the full article.

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00 Worn & Wound
Rolex   Jan 18, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00

I think there’s a certain trajectory to watch collecting that the vast majority of enthusiasts will be familiar with. It’s been discussed at length, and might even represent something of a self fulfilling prophecy at this point. It goes something like this: you start out with the fan favorite affordables, dabble in big Swiss brands that take a depreciation hit and can be found readily on enthusiast buy/sell/trade platforms, discover the insane variety and value of microbrands, and then eventually, if it’s a brand that has meant something to you before you even knew that watch collecting was a thing, you wind up at Rolex.  This is vastly oversimplified of course, but a version of this has happened to me and many collectors I know personally. Muy own observation though is that it’s what happens next that really determines where you go in the hobby. Because there’s a path where you just keep acquiring Rolex sports watches like Pokemon. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with that – they are objectively excellent watches to own. But I think a certain number of collectors have a Tony Soprano, late season 6 moment sometime after picking up that GMT-Master or Submariner, and ask themselves: is this all there is? $8000 Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00 Case Titanium Movement Schwarz-Etienne ASE200 Dial Plum Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 40.7 x 49mm Thickness 11.6mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Ye...

#TBT Going Wild With A Sicura Safari Victorinox Knife Watch Fratello
Victorinox Knife Watch Even though Jan 18, 2024

#TBT Going Wild With A Sicura Safari Victorinox Knife Watch

Even though it feels like wearing a bar of chocolate on your wrist, the Sicura Safari knife watch is a pure wonder. It had been a long time since I put it on my wish list, and I finally got one. I really thought it would be much easier to find it… I was wrong. […] Visit #TBT Going Wild With A Sicura Safari Victorinox Knife Watch to read the full article.

Omega Introduces a New Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 with a More Detailed Lunar Surface Inspired Dial and a Saturn V Seconds Hand Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces Jan 16, 2024

Omega Introduces a New Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 with a More Detailed Lunar Surface Inspired Dial and a Saturn V Seconds Hand

A January launch of a new Speedmaster (on a Tuesday, of course) has become a bit of a tradition for Omega over these past few years. Today, Omega has announced a new Dark Side of the Moon Speedmaster, which at first glance (and maybe a second and third glance) will look a whole lot like an earlier iteration of the popular ceramic version of the chronograph. The newest addition, though, has a few little updates that are likely to appeal to the most hardcore Speedmaster collectors. “Little” is the operative word here for at least one of them, which also might be the most technically impressive. The Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 is a follow up to the first edition of this watch, which was released in 2018 to mark the 50th anniversary of the mission. That original Apollo 8 watch was an immediate hit. It combined a lot of the modern tech and materials of contemporary ceramic Speedmasters with the familiar and highly regarded manually wound movement that is so much a part of the Speedy’s DNA. The rendition of the lunar surface on the dial was also particularly well executed and impressive.  The new Apollo 8 features an updated movement, Calibre 3869, which is analogous to Calibre 1869 used in the previous version. This new movement has been specced to match Calibre 3861, the manually wound caliber at the heart of the current Moonwatch. It’s a significant upgrade from the older movement, and has been fitted with a co-axial escapement and meets all the requir...

Hands-On: the Direnzo DRZ06 Wandering Star Worn & Wound
Jan 15, 2024

Hands-On: the Direnzo DRZ06 Wandering Star

I always look forward to checking out a new release from Direnzo. There’s always more than meets the eye, and the DRZ06 Wandering Star is no exception. The watch is a marriage of the familiar and the unexpected. In this case, the ‘familiar’ is an evolution of Direnzo’s retro-futuristic design language, including a dish-shaped dial, bold colors, and organic-feeling markers cut into a sandwich dial. The ‘unexpected’ is the presence of a mystery dial. It’s now some years since I wrote about the originals and heyday of the Mystery Dial here, but it’s still a feature I’d like to see more of. I guess many watchmakers might be deterred from attempting this as it’s difficult to avoid the mystery being the interesting thing about a watch and therefore becoming little more than a gimmick. Perhaps the reason it has been implemented successfully as part of the DRZ06 Wandering Star is that we just have a mystery sub-dial for the running seconds, with a lone red dot slowly spinning around against the lumed backdrop. Last summer I spent some time with Direnzo’s previous release – a reworking of one of their earliest models. The case of the new DRZ06 is similar in shape to that of the DRZ02 Aerolite, but with some subtle changes that blend to give a different character. For starters, the brushed steel bezel is larger in every way. Despite the main watch case being a soft square shape, this strong bezel makes the watch feel far rounder. The Wandering Star still pull...

Introducing – The New Blue Enamel Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Jan 15, 2024

Introducing – The New Blue Enamel Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon

Jaeger-LeCoultre‘s Master Thin collection is home to sophisticated, understated, ultra-thin dress watches ranging from time-and-date to moon phase models and more complex proposals like tourbillons and perpetual calendars. Offered with understated beige or sunray decorated dials, JLC introduced métiers d’art dials to the collection at the end of 2018. First appearing on the Master Ultra […]

New: Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Dragon Deployant
Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Dragon Jan 13, 2024

New: Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Dragon

Bell & Ross is a watch brand that is known for its aviation-inspired timepieces and the iconic square dash gauge case design. The latest addition to their collection is the BR 05 Artline Dragon, a limited edition model that features a dragon motif on the dial and the case. The dragon is a symbol of power, wisdom and luck in many cultures, and it is also a tribute to the Chinese New Year of the Dragon in 2024.

OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: 2023 Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline Review WatchAdvice
Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline Jan 12, 2024

OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: 2023 Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline Review

What’s it like to own the Tudor Back Bay GMT Opaline Dial? And is it better than the original Black Bay GMT with the black dial? After spending half the year with mine, I know my answer! Purchasing Expectations Loved the bulky aesthetic Wanted a traveller’s GMT that ticked all the boxes My first Swiss luxury watch brand Ownership Reality Incredibly well-rounded and reliable; A true GADA timepiece Perhaps too bulky, almost unbalanced even on the bracelet Where is the in-clasp adjustment? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Taking the Pepsi Plunge If you have just dipped your toes into the whirlpool that is the watch world, you would know the recognisable blue and red colours of the Rolex GMT-Master II, nicknamed “Pepsi.” You would also know that acquiring such a watch is – for want of a better phrase – a massive pain in the behind! To even get a chance at one, you must: A)     Know a guy who knows a guy, or B)      Play games with the Authorised Dealer for what can extend to an eternity, or C)      Fork over exorbitant amounts of money for instant gratification on the secondary market. If you’re in the same financial situation as me, or even significantly wealthier, this kind of behaviour would put anyone off from trying to get one.            Even so, they are still incredibly popular – but that’s a whole different rabbit hole to go down. So, when Tudor released the original Bla...

Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster '57 (Again), This Time With Broad Arrow Hands – Finally! Hodinkee
Omega Jan 11, 2024

Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster '57 (Again), This Time With Broad Arrow Hands – Finally!

Something strange happened in 2013. Omega released a new self-winding Speedmaster with its killer co-axial movement and called it the Speedmaster '57. It looked like the original reference 2915 from 1957 in so, so many ways, right down to the crown-guard-less, polished case, and steel bezel. It was, as I called it back then, a superb offering for someone looking for a vintage-looking watch with great styling but with modern technology at a great price, from a blue-chip brand. But one thing really bugged me about that watch – where were the broad-arrow hands? You call it a Speedmaster '57, and do everything right except give it its most identifiable trait? I didn't get it, I still don't, but it doesn't matter now because Omega went ahead and fixed that.

Nodus and The Smoking Tire’s Matt Farah Team Up for a Bold, Driving Inspired LE Worn & Wound
Nodus Jan 8, 2024

Nodus and The Smoking Tire’s Matt Farah Team Up for a Bold, Driving Inspired LE

Automotive inspired watches come in many different forms. There are watches that draw attention to aesthetic similarities between well understood components of cars and watches (dials that look like gauges on a dashboard, or even putting an automaker’s badge on the dial). And then there are watches that are, ostensibly, meant to be thought of as tools for motorsport – chronographs with tachymeter scales and the like. But there’s another category – the one I tend to prefer – that takes a more abstract approach. These are watches that are imbued with the feeling of driving in their design. Autodromo, of course, are masters at this. Their watches capture a driving aesthetic that doesn’t simply port over elements of vehicle design into a watch, and they use color and texture to evoke specific aspects of driving culture. The latest from Nodus, their second collaboration with automotive personality Matt Farah, is very much in that vein. The new Nodus Canyon in Sunset Orange follows the successful launch of the Mint colorway of the same watch last year (it sold out immediately to Farah’s Patreon subscribers). The watch, designed by Farah, is conceived as an everyday sports watch, with a 41mm stainless steel case that measures 11.5mm tall and 47mm from lug to lug. To look at the watch, you would not immediately clock it as automotive inspired, but it’s filled with subtle and personal details from Farah’s long history in the automotive world that will make it rewa...

Interview – Nomos CEO Uwe Ahrendt on the Significance of the Brand’s Glashütte Origins Monochrome
Nomos CEO Uwe Ahrendt Jan 8, 2024

Interview – Nomos CEO Uwe Ahrendt on the Significance of the Brand’s Glashütte Origins

For more than 30 years, Nomos has been part of the monumental effort to resurrect the German watchmaking tradition that once thrived in the Glashütte region in the easternmost part of the country. The region is home to a dozen or so brands, from relatively affordable names like Union Glashütte and Nomos to ultra-high-end like A. […]

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Tudor Seiko Jan 7, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 71: A Year in Watches 2023 – Rolex, Tudor, Seiko, and More!

Welcome to episode 71 of A Week in Watches. To make it a tradition this is a special episode, or rather, part of one of a special two-parter cleverly titled “A Year in Watches.” Yes, we’re going to take a look back at big moments and releases from 2023. As you’d expect, there’s a lot to cover, so we’re doing the “big brands” in this episode – think Omega, Rolex, and Tudor – and micros and indies in the next. Naturally, there still was too much to cover, so we focused on big launches from Watches & Wonders, what Rolex was up to (they did some weird stuff in 2023, especially for them), and then Seiko, who had a particular focus this year. If you enjoy the episode, please do like and subscribe. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The best way to start the new year is a new watch. Head over to WindupWatchShop.com to check out new watches, limited editions, accessories, EDC, clocks, and more. The holidays are over, it’s time to get yourself something nice. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 71: A Year in Watches 2023 – Rolex, Tudor, Seiko, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Eat the Rich: How Watches Signify Class in Saltburn, The Menu, and More Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Other “eat-the-rich” films Jan 5, 2024

Eat the Rich: How Watches Signify Class in Saltburn, The Menu, and More

The new class satire Saltburn features some prominent watch-shots-protagonist Ollie Quick (Barry Keoghan) wears a Casio, his friend Felix Catton (Jacob Elordi) can be seen sporting a Rolex Bubbleback, and Felix’s mother Lady Elspeth Catton (Rosamund Pike) wears a Chopard Happy Diamonds, as Quick tricks his way into the family’s good graces before betraying them all. In films that seek to emphasize class differences, luxury goods like wristwatches are often easy visual stand-ins to show a difference between their worlds, a trick Saltburn is far from the first film to employ. From Saltburn, Barry Keoghan and Jacob Elordi wearing Casio and Rolex. Amazon Studios Ollie’s digital Casio fits in with the nice but inexpensive aesthetic of the social-climbing character, while Felix’s Rolex Bubbleback-reportedly Elordi’s own watch-speaks to the character’s inherited wealth and how he treats it as casually as the vintage timepiece he pairs with a Livestrong rubber bracelet. Felix’s mother, Lady Elspeth Catton (Rosamund Pike), wears a Chopard Happy Diamonds befitting a socialite party girl who married into an old money family. At the end of the film, the link between class and watches is highlighted once more when a now-adult and wealthier Ollie is seen to have traded his Casio for a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Other “eat-the-rich” films in recent years have used wristwatches similarly: Take, for another example, last year’s The Menu in which the ultra wealthy R...

Introducing – Garrick Makes the Jump with the S2 Deadbeat Seconds Monochrome
Garrick Jan 5, 2024

Introducing – Garrick Makes the Jump with the S2 Deadbeat Seconds

Traditional watchmaking is at the heart of British watchmaking institute Garrick. Ever since the brand’s foundation in 2015, the goal has been to rekindle the British style of mechanical watchmaking. Watchmaking in Great Britain has huge historical significance thanks to visionary people like Thomas Mudge, John Harrison, and many others. For Garrick, things have long […]

The Best Watches Under $2,000 for 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 2, 2024

The Best Watches Under $2,000 for 2026

One of the most popular topics of discussion for watch enthusiasts in online forums and social media is how to get the most bang for your buck at a given price point. Today, we’ll be focusing on exactly that, taking a look at some of the most impressive value propositions at or around $2,000. And while price points like $500 and $1,000 each have their standouts in terms of what you’re getting for your money, it is right around two grand that we start to experience some of the more luxurious elements of watchmaking when it comes to case and bracelet finishing, movements, and specifications. We’ll be taking a look at brands like Longines, Oris, Tudor, Sinn, Nomos, and many others that are producing excellent watches packing a lot of enthusiast appeal within the confines of this price range. Before we get into the watches, here are some ground rules: In order to keep the list organized, we’ll arrange it by category, focusing on some of the most popular broad segments of the watch industry including everyday, Flieger, dress, dive, GMT, and chronograph watches. We also won’t be terribly strict about coming in under $2,000, but rather concentrate on watches that are priced around $2,000 as factors like currency exchange rates, local taxes, and whether or not you’re buying pre-owned have a profound effect on final pricing. We’ll make an effort not to include more than four watches from any single brand and will also limit the inclusion of micro-brands, not that ...

Hands-On: the MAEN 39 Ultra Thin Worn & Wound
Maen Jan 1, 2024

Hands-On: the MAEN 39 Ultra Thin

Thinness in a watch, real thinness, the type that requires the word “thin” to be in the name, is almost like a complication unto itself. This is not an original observation, but I think it bears repeating, especially when a watch is impressively, almost hilariously thin. The new MAEN Manhattan 39 Ultra Thin fits neatly into this category, taking every aspect of the popular 37mm version of the watch up a notch. To me it feels akin, almost, to the Lorier Hydra SIII released last year. Not because it has anything specific in common with that watch, but because it represents the manifestation of a type of watch enthusiasts have been dreaming of at an accessible price point for years.  Before we get too deep into the wearing experience, let’s start with the numbers. The tale of the tape, for the MAEN 39 matters in a way I’d normally brush off. The 39mm diameter is just slightly larger than the original Manhattan. In truth, when you have the watches side by side, they look very similar. Part of this is because 2mm in this dimension is just not a whole lot of real estate on a case that’s elongated toward the bracelet sides, and part of it is a visual trick of the eye.  $999 Hands-On: the MAEN 39 Ultra Thin Case Stainless steel Movement ETA 7001 Dial Green Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Integrated steel bracelet Water Resistance 10 ATM Dimensions 39 x 47.8mm Thickness 6.9mm Lug Width 24mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Yes Price $999 Where the differences be...

Our 2023 Watches of the Year Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Yes Dec 29, 2023

Our 2023 Watches of the Year

No matter your budget, taste, or experience in the hobby, it seems like the entire watch community is in agreement: it was a great year for watches. Not just for new releases, but for the watch community, for talking about watches, and for being involved in this strange but incredibly fun world.  We asked our team of Editorial staff members and contributors to pick their Watch of the Year. It could be a new release that they own, or don’t own, an addition to the collection, or any watch that spoke to them in 2023. The selections are wonderfully diverse, and speak to the huge variety of watches we were able to collectively experience this year. More than that, they underline vibrancy of the watch world, and seem to point to a movement toward watches that are unique or special in some way.  We had a great time talking to you about watches this year, and we can’t wait to bring you even more from every corner of the watch world in 2024. Happy new year!   Zach Weiss My watch of the year is the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto. Yes, it came out in 2022, but this was the year I got to wear it…and wear it I did. And I think it also colored the watch world itself in 2023, setting a new standard, showing what brands that were formerly ignored by the industry at large can do. Proof of this was its well-earned GPGH award. Now, I’m working on an owner’s review, so I don’t want to spoil that, but the gist is this: I can’t get over it. It’s a watch that still brings me j...

Looking Forward – Watchmaking Insiders’ Predictions for 2024 SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Twenty twenty-four might be Dec 29, 2023

Looking Forward – Watchmaking Insiders’ Predictions for 2024

Having looked back on the year that has just been, it’s now time to look ahead to see what 2024 may bring. To conclude the year we turned to notable industry figures to see what they think will unfold over the next 12 months. Looking to gain insights from the breadth of the industry, we posed the question to influential personalities in key segments, from independent watchmaking to luxury brands to movement specialists. Each of these individuals brings a unique perspective on the outlook for 2024. Jean Arnault Director of Watches, Louis Vuitton “Twenty twenty-four might be one of these foundational years that the industry will talk about for the decades to come. Interest rates and the global economic outlook have successfully cooled the frenzy around watches for most brands, and this will continue into 2024. Whether we see a scaled correction or a ‘soft landing’ will depend on Rolex’s management of the situation. Being such a dominant player among retailers, it will be the deciding factor for 2024.” Rexhep Rexhepi Founder, Akrivia “The last recent years of speculation in watchmaking astonished and sometimes frightened me. One of the biggest challenges will be to get back to normal times. I predict that the industry will refocus on enthusiasts and connoisseurs once again, since competition will definitely be fiercer.” Jean Arnault (left), and Rexhep Rexhepi. Image – GPHG and SJX Felix Baumgartner Co-founder, Urwerk “When [Martin Frei and I] started Urwer...