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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Introducing: The Seiko Alpinist EU Limited Edition In Blue Fratello
Seiko Alpinist EU Limited Edition Aug 9, 2025

Introducing: The Seiko Alpinist EU Limited Edition In Blue

There’s no shortage of Seiko releases these days, but few pique our interest quite like a new Alpinist. The rugged field watch has earned cult status over the years, balancing quirky charm with real-world capability. Now, with the introduction of the Seiko Alpinist SPB531, the brand adds a Europe-only edition in a deep, moody blue. […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Alpinist EU Limited Edition In Blue to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Big Brands Fratello
Aug 8, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Big Brands

Another Friday, another list! This week, we move on from the ongoing retrospective of the first six months of the year. It’s time to change the topic. This week, we kick off a trilogy of lists focusing on affordable watches. To be more specific, over the course of the next three weeks, we will look […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Big Brands to read the full article.

Reviewing The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo: A Bold & Beautiful Watch WatchAdvice
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Aug 8, 2025

Reviewing The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo: A Bold & Beautiful Watch

After visiting the Bvlgari High Horology Manufacture in Switzerland this year, it was about time we reviewed one of their iconic pieces, so I’ve chosen the Octo Finissimo to wear for the week. What We Love The unique design The feel on the wrist A piece you won’t see at watch get-togethers very often, if at all! What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet No luminescence on the dial The flatness may not suit or wrist types and shapes Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 This year is probably one of the first times that I have really delved into the world of Bvlgari. Yes, I’ve tried on their watches and seen all the new releases, but I’ve not had the chance to dive into the brand – until this year. Luckily, we had the chance to visit the High Watchmaking Manufacture in Le Sentier back in April to see just one of the manufacturing arms of Bvlgari (they have three across Switzerland where different components are made), in this instance, as the name suggests, the Bvlgari Haute Horlogerie is where the most complicated watches are made, such as their ultra thin movements, minute repeaters, tourbillons, or in Bvlgari’s instance, all of these in one in some cases. A few images from our visit back in April, from the BVL 138 Calibre found in the Octo Finissimo (first two images), a tourbillon cage in the making, and two out of Bvlgari’s three highly skilled watchmakers who work on the high-...

Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part II SJX Watches
Seiko SPRON 610 hairspring Lastly Aug 8, 2025

Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part II

Part I of our story on the evolution of hairspring materials covered temperature compensation along with the development of the first specialised balance spring alloy, Elinvar. The story brought us to the 1920s, when scientist and horologist Charles-Edouard Guillaume (1861-1938) finished his work on nickel-iron alloys and watchmakers begun embracing Elinvar springs paired with mono-metallic balances. In this second part we turn to newer hairspring alloys, like the now-ubiquitous Nivarox. Then we look at today’s landscape and the future, touching on research done by the Swatch Group with alternative, niobium-based alloys and also the specialised but obscure Seiko SPRON 610 hairspring. Lastly we discuss silicon springs, which are growing more prevalent across a range of timepieces. Elinvar’s weaknesses Elinvar was by far the greatest breakthrough in self-compensating alloy hairsprings at the time. Guillaume considered Elinvar good enough and not needing further improvement - unsurprisingly since he was its inventor - but other watchmakers and engineers continued to experiment with iron-nickel compounds because Elinvar’s inherent properties made it a good, but imperfect, material. Even though the alloy behaved predictably with temperature changes, its physical properties were not ideal to begin with. Elinvar was a soft metal, which posed its own suite of problems for spring applications. The importance of softness in terms of hairspring performance is not related ...

Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Review – The Best Colourway Yet? WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Review – Aug 6, 2025

Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Review – The Best Colourway Yet?

The Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Rose Gold is a timepiece that blends vintage-inspired design with modern execution and just the right amount of flair. From the case finishing to the tri-compax sector dial, this watch doesn’t just look good, it feels special on the wrist! What We Love The rose gold PVD finish truly enhances the watch’s luxurious appeal with the various finishes on the case. Sector dial layout with tri-compax subdials that balance complexity with elegance. Vintage-inspired design reimagined with modern-day elegance. What We Don’t The leather strap feels limiting for daily wear due to long-term durability concerns. No clasp option offered. Constant use of the pin buckle can wear out the strap quicker. The case may look thick from the side, which might put off some wearers despite wearing slimmer in person Overall Rating: 8.9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 It was only two short years ago that Raymond Weil unveiled their Millésimecollection. Raymond Weil’s creative elegance, innovative technology, and Swiss-made excellence were all rolled into one collection. The brand paid homage to the rich heritage and traditions of horology, which can easily be seen through the vintage-inspired case and dial design. The Millésime collection pays tribute to the golden age of watchmaking from the 1930s to 1960s. The word Millésime, meaning “vintage” or “vintage year” in French, couldn’t be more fit...

Reflecting on Twenty Years of MB&F; SJX Watches
MB&F; Aug 4, 2025

Reflecting on Twenty Years of MB&F;

It’s difficult to picture what the independent watchmaking landscape would look like without MB&F;. In some ways, it feels like the brand has always been around, perhaps because for me, it has. I first discovered MB&F; in 2008 when the HM2 was launched, but even back then the brand had an aura of polish that belied its short history. With the benefit of hindsight, Max Büsser’s decision to step away from corporate life, and leave the top job at Harry Winston Rare Timepieces to build his own brand rooted in collaboration, transparency, and imagination, seems obvious. But at the time, it was seen as a risky move that would never work. To understand why it did, we need to go back to the early 2000s. Max Büsser during the launch of the HM1 It’s called what? Let’s rewind. In the early 2000s the watch community was obsessed with the topic of in-house movements. The internet was slowly helping collectors find one another and share insider knowledge, which revealed how many watches were powered by the same handful of movements. If a new brand wanted to be taken seriously, it was increasingly important to be a manufacture and do as much as possible in-house. It was a simpler time, and we had yet to see such widespread misuse of the term.  So when Mr Büsser explained that MB&F; stood for ‘Maximilian Büsser & Friends,’ and that he would actively celebrate the friends and collaborators that he was working with, people told him he was crazy. But he understood that the coll...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-100 Fratello
Citizen Tsuyosa Vs Casio Edifice Aug 3, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-100

Good morning, and welcome to the Sunday Morning Showdown you knew was coming. Today, we put Casio’s all-new mechanical Edifice EFK-100 up against the fan-favorite Citizen Tsuyosa. We’re still not entirely sure why Casio took this new path, but, like the Citizen Tsuyosa, the watches punch way above their weight. Both brands offer a design […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-100 to read the full article.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Omega Aug 1, 2025

Join Us for the Premiere Screening of “Giles” and a Special Q&A; with Taylor Scott Mason and Giles Clement

We’re beyond excited to invite you to the premiere screening of “Giles”, a documentary film by Taylor Scott Mason that follows Giles Clement through his journey of becoming a one-man watch brand. After two decades as a photographer, the pandemic gave Giles an unexpected pause. Instead of baking bread like his friends, he bought a broken Omega on eBay and fell down the rabbit hole of watchmaking. What started as a desire to bring new life to old watches turned into a years-long journey of designing and building his own CNC machines from scrap and eventually releasing a handmade watch that people actually bought. RSVP HERE Before the screening, guests will settle in for brief remarks from the Worn & Wound team, setting the stage for the premiere of the documentary. After the film, you’re invited to participate in a Q&A; session with Watchmaker Giles Clement and Filmmaker Taylor Scott Mason. We hope you’ll join us and enjoy an evening of storytelling and conversation about what goes into building your own watch from your basement. Concession-style bites + beverages will be served. The Windup Watch Shop will also be hosting a giveaway for your chance to win an Expedition Starter Pack at the end of the night. You must be present in order to win. Please come and celebrate this special moment for local watchmaking here in the Brooklyn community! Tuesday, August 12, 2025 6:30 PM – Doors open 7:30 PM – Film Screening 7:45 PM – Q&A; 8:15 PM – Giveaway Drawing Windup ...

Introducing – The Sophisticated & Feminine Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar 36mm Monochrome
Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar 36mm Aug 1, 2025

Introducing – The Sophisticated & Feminine Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar 36mm

Like many of Montblanc’s watches, the name Bohème was originally assigned to a line of fountain pens. Released in 2014 as a collection of women’s watches, the current collection of automatics and day & night models expands with the arrival of a sophisticated Perpetual Calendar in 36mm rose gold and two-tone rose gold and steel […]

Celebrating The Cartier Tank’s Evolving Legacy With The New Tank Américaine European Limited Edition Fratello
Cartier Tank’s Evolving Legacy Jul 30, 2025

Celebrating The Cartier Tank’s Evolving Legacy With The New Tank Américaine European Limited Edition

Few watches have transcended time, trends, and geography quite like the Cartier Tank. The prototype emerged in 1917, during the turmoil of World War I, and displayed design inspiration from the robust geometry of the Renault FT-17 tanks on the Western Front. The original Tank was Louis Cartier’s bold vision of modern elegance. Its clean […] Visit Celebrating The Cartier Tank’s Evolving Legacy With The New Tank Américaine European Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing: The Hanhart Aquasphere Ocean Fade Fratello
Jul 30, 2025

Introducing: The Hanhart Aquasphere Ocean Fade

Today, we’ll take a look at the latest release from Hanhart. The German brand may be best known for its aviation chronographs, but there’s a rather comprehensive catalog on offer. One example of this diversity is the company’s dive watch, the Aquasphere. Until now, the sub-collection consisted of one watch. Now, there are two with […] Visit Introducing: The Hanhart Aquasphere Ocean Fade to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Atelier Wen Ancestra Jiāo Fratello
Atelier Wen Jul 29, 2025

Hands-On With The New Atelier Wen Ancestra Jiāo

Atelier Wen has created some of my favorite watches over the past several years. The brand’s Perception series fits like a dream and is beautifully finished. Plus, the company is never content to leave well enough alone. Once a model has been released, the team continues to make minor updates to improve fit and quality. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Atelier Wen Ancestra Jiāo to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Nezumi Corbeau CQ4.702 - Featuring Black DLC And A Pop Of Color Fratello
Jul 28, 2025

Hands-On With The New Nezumi Corbeau CQ4.702 - Featuring Black DLC And A Pop Of Color

Nezumi is one of those microbrands that I always follow closely. I like its overall retro style, but that’s only half of the story because plenty of brands release new watches based on historical designs. What makes Nezumi stand out is the use of color. The brand often uses less obvious color combinations. I like […] Visit Hands-On With The New Nezumi Corbeau CQ4.702 - Featuring Black DLC And A Pop Of Color to read the full article.

Hands On: Hublot Big Bang Unico in Mint Green Ceramic SJX Watches
Hublot Big Bang Unico Jul 28, 2025

Hands On: Hublot Big Bang Unico in Mint Green Ceramic

One of the year’s best summer watches, the Hublot Big Bang Unico Mint Green Ceramic is a fresh interpretation of the brand’s signature collection. Housed in a 42 mm case clad in candy-like, mint green ceramic, the Big Bang Unico features Hublot’s top-of-the-line HUB1280 flyback chronograph movement with an unusual, dial-side integrated construction. While technically identical to other ceramic Big Bang watches, the new mint green colour is unusually fun and approachable. This new edition of the Big Bang joins the permanent collection, and extends the brand’s industry-leading range of coloured ceramic watches. Initial thoughts Hublot is a brand that tends to elicit visceral polarisation among collectors, and it’s easy to see why. The bold designs are seen as outrageous by some, and the pricing puts them out of reach for those focused on maximising their horological dollar. But Hublot has outgrown its early reputation as a Royal Oak imitator and found its own identity, in part through its leadership in ceramics and willingness to experiment with design and colour. In this case, the mint green colour looks great, and considering the glossy finish, it looks almost like candy. This gives the watch a friendly countenance that results in an amusing tension with the overtly masculine, technical structure of the case and design of the dial, with its stencil-like hour markers. The Big Bang collection is all about its signature architectural case, and the mint green editio...

Basic Hublot Knowledge - What Every Watch Enthusiast Should Know About The Brand Fratello
Hublot Knowledge - What Every Jul 27, 2025

Basic Hublot Knowledge - What Every Watch Enthusiast Should Know About The Brand

Hublot is easily one of the most controversial brands among watch enthusiasts. Many are quick to judge, but few put in the effort to get to know the company. If that sounds like you, I hope to help you on your way today! This is basic Hublot knowledge - what every watch enthusiast should know […] Visit Basic Hublot Knowledge - What Every Watch Enthusiast Should Know About The Brand to read the full article.

The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Shadow: The Ultimate Adventure Watch WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Shadow Jul 25, 2025

The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Shadow: The Ultimate Adventure Watch

It’s dark, it’s stealthy, and it’s bold. But it’s a lot of fun! The new Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Shadow is built for those who love some adventure. So we put it to the test… What We Love The muted matte shadow look The lightweight construction The ease of wear for a larger watch What We Don’t Lack of micro-adjust The ‘give’ in the bezel The taper of the bracelet isn’t as balanced as it could be Overall Rating: 8.5 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 The Zenith Diver dates back to the early 1960s when the Le Locle brand designed and released the Super Sub Sea. But, it wasn’t until 1969 when the Defy Diver was released that Zenith had hit on a good thing. The Defy A3648 was a bold watch, and its design codes echoed those of the time. This watch is what the Zenith Defy Diver Revival is modelled after, which Mario took out for a spin last year. However, Zenith didn’t have a deep diver or saturation dive watch like many others out there. Think of the likes of the Rolex Sea-Dweller and the Omega Planet Ocean. So last year, the brand released a new watch – the Defy Extreme Diver in both blue and black colourways that would recify the gap in the market. It had all the hallmarks of the Zenith Defy range, closely mirroring that of the Defy Skyline, but just a little more bold and robust. So it was no surprise that the brand looked at this watch, along with the A3648 and decided to release a pair of “Shadow” e...

Seiko Turtle SRPE93 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Jul 24, 2025

Seiko Turtle SRPE93 Review

The Seiko Prospex SRPE93, the most recent version of the legendary Seiko Turtle dive watch, hit the market relatively recently, in 2021, but its lineage can be traced all the way back to the 1970s. What makes this defiantly retro-looking tool watch such a favorite of enthusiasts even today? There’s a lot more to it than the very accessible price point, as we’ll explore here in this in-depth examination - or, a look under the shell, if you will -  of the SRPE93 “Turtle.” Seiko, the world’s oldest and most established Japanese watchmaking brand, was one of the pioneers of the dive-watch genre and it has long stood apart from its Swiss contemporaries in this field (i.e. Rolex, Blancpain, and others) for its use of bold and unconventional designs. One of its most off-the-wall and yet most enduringly popular designs is the original "Turtle” - aka, Ref. 6306 and 6309 - which made its debut in 1976. The former reference was made exclusively for the Japanese market (and thus, vintage examples are much rarer and more valuable), and the latter was sold to international customers. The reptilian nickname derived from the watches’ cushion-shaped cases with softly rounded lugs, which brought to mind the silhouette of a turtle when viewed from above. The reference numbers for the watches essentially matched those of their automatic movements - Caliber 6306A, which included hacking seconds and Caliber 6309A, which did not.  The Turtle’s unusual look and rugged ...

The Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon GBCF999 is Distinctly Japanese High Horology SJX Watches
Grand Seiko models While Credor Jul 24, 2025

The Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon GBCF999 is Distinctly Japanese High Horology

Credor returns to its first-ever tourbillon with the Goldfeather Tourbillon GBCF999, a watch that emphasises traditional Japanese craftsmanship with maki-e lacquerwork and hand engraving. Tracing its lineage back to the inaugural Seiko tourbillon that was launched in 2016, the Goldfeather Tourbillon is equipped with an improved tourbillon movement featuring a clever twist. Despite its elaborate decoration, the Goldfeather possesses a far more subdued look than its 2016 predecessor, the Credor Fugaku Tourbillon, which was not only decorated in maki-e and engraving but also set with blue sapphires. Initial thoughts Credor timepieces are almost always appealing propositions, since they usually sit somewhere between more affordable Seiko watches and high-end Grand Seiko models. While Credor is often synonymous with simple but highly decorated watches – like the famous Eichi II – its catalogue boasts truly noteworthy examples of complications. The new Goldfeather Tourbillon is one of these noteworthy watches. It’s a relatively restrained watch but executed with an impressive level of quality, especially in its decoration that is uniquely Japanese. And the slim movement is uniquely Credor in style and finish. In terms of hand finishing inside and out, the makers of the Goldfeather Tourbillon cut no corners. The Goldfeather’s form is inspired by a model from the 1960s; the clean case design is clearly suggestive of those times. The overall look manages to blend classical...

Introducing: The Limited-Edition IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar In Light Blue Ceramic Fratello
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Jul 23, 2025

Introducing: The Limited-Edition IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar In Light Blue Ceramic

You have already seen the beige Mojave Desert, white Lake Tahoe, green Woodland, dark blue Oceana, and Jet Black fly by. Now it’s time for another Top Gun-inspired color. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar is a limited edition of 1,000 watches, each in a light blue ceramic case. The matte dial […] Visit Introducing: The Limited-Edition IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar In Light Blue Ceramic to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT $6,900 Jul 22, 2025

Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925

There’s something satisfying about handling a watch that feels like it knows exactly what it is. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 (L3.803.5.53.6) landed on my wrist with that kind of confident presence-not shouting for attention, but quietly competent in the way good tool watches should be. At 39mm with a mix of steel and 18-karat rose gold, it’s Longines’ centennial nod to their 1925 original, the world’s first dual time zone wristwatch. The question isn’t whether it’s historically significant-it obviously is-but whether it actually earns its place in today’s crowded GMT field. Longines, GMT Watches, and the Inevitable Tudor Question Let’s address the elephant in the room: if you’re shopping GMT watches around this price point, you’ve probably looked at the Tudor Black Bay GMT ($4,675). It’s the obvious comparison, sitting at roughly the same price with similar functionality. But where Tudor leans into its diving heritage with a rotating 24-hour bezel, Longines approaches GMT complications from their aviation roots. The Spirit Zulu Time 1925 isn’t trying to be a dive watch that happens to track time zones-it’s purpose-built for travelers and pilots who need to know what time it is “there.” The other natural competitors include the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT ($6,900), the Raymond Weil Freelancer GMT Worldtimer ($3,175), and the NOMOS Zürich Worldtimer ($6,100). But it’s worth noting these watches solve the multi-timezone problem...

Top 10 Watch Brands In India Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 22, 2025

Top 10 Watch Brands In India

Before I get into the top 10 watch brands in India, it’s worth talking about the Indian watch market overall. This is because even in the face of some regional slowdown, India has become one of the fastest growing markets for Swiss watch exports with an astounding 25% increase in 2025, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. Brands like Rado, Longines, and Montblanc are as popular as ever in India, but what about the state of watchmaking in India? Well, it’s a bit of a mixed bag, and there are a few things we need to understand before getting into the my selections for the top 10 watch brands in India. First, India is not yet at the level of having a watchmaking infrastructure like that of China. The basic history of Indian watchmaking begins with the nationalized HMT in the 1960s and '70s, but the quartz revolution had a big, negative impact on mechanical watchmaking in the country. I’d say 2015 marked a change in the landscape of Indian watches, when microbrands for enthusiasts began to pick up in popularity. Again, while the infrastructure to manufacture movement components and parts in India is still not there, the passion for history and design has propelled some brands as hometown enthusiast darlings. I spent quite a bit of time researching this topic, and I do want to shout out YouTubers  WatchgyanHindi  and Watch and More India who are making some compelling Hindi content for the South Asian watch enthusiast community. In this list of the ...