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The 1904 Cartier watch designed for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.
Louis Cartier's 1917 rectangular design, inspired by the Renault FT tank.
Flat triangular blade hands without a central ridge. Cartier Tank, Santos, IWC Mark XI / Mark XX classical-dress and military signature.
Geneva luxury holding group founded 1988 by Johann Rupert. Owns Cartier, IWC, JLC, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron, Panerai, Piaget. Largest haute-horlogerie portfolio in the industry.
Hodinkee
After quietly launching last year, the young brand has just announced two new 'Monochrome' releases as former Cartier Senior Watch Designer Raphaël Abeillon joins as ALTO's Creative Director.
SJX Watches
Panerai chief executive Jean-Marc Pontroué has just revealed he’s stepping down in a post on his personal Instagram account. He took up the job almost exactly seven years ago, after six years as chief executive of Roger Dubuis and over a decade at Montblanc, where most notably he led the brand’s high-end watchmaking efforts (that were dialled back under subsequent managers). Mr Pontroué’s successor, effective April 1, will be Emmanuel Perrin, currently head of Specialist Watchmakers (SWM), essentially the watch division of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that also owns Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. According to insiders, SWM will continue to exist, but at a regional level, rather than the group-level entity it is now. Emmanuel Perrin Mr Pontroué landed at Panerai with big shoes to fill: his predecessor, Angelo Bonati, led the brand for over two decades, taking it from essentially nothing to one of the hottest brands in the 2000s. Panerai’s impressive momentum had begun to slow towards the end of Mr Bonati’s tenure, and despite his best efforts Mr Pontroué never managed to recapture the magic. Amongst the initiatives launched by Mr Pontroué at Panerai was sustainability in watchmaking materials and packaging, as well as a renewed engagement with Paneristi, the community of dedicated Panerai fans – underlined by historically inspired new launches coming in 2024. The brand’s direction will now be determined by Mr Perrin. During his spell leading SWM, Mr...
Monochrome
Today, there is only one Reverso, with Jaeger-LeCoultre printed on its dial, but this was not always the case. During the 1930s, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Cartier made watches that used the Reverso case for their timepieces. Moreover, the 1931 Reverso was not the first reversible case design. A few years earlier, Universal Geneve […]
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey has just announced that ownership of the company has once again reverted to Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, confirming rumours that have been circulating since Michel Nydegger replaced Antonio Calce as chief executive. With Mr Calce’s departure, the brand was pivoted back to more traditional complicated watches, as exemplified by the recent Hand Made 2 and Nano Foudroyante EWT. The shares owned by Mr Calce, was acquired by either the two cofounders or the company itself. The statement issued by Greubel Forsey states “Mr. Calce no longer holding any shares in the company or being affiliated with it.” Mr Calce came on board in 2020, and redirected the brand towards high-end sports watches. Industry talk at the time was that he was not only pivoting the company’s products, but also engaged in a search for a buyer for the brand. With a majority stake, Mr Greubel continues as the board’s chairman. Though his exact role is unspecified, Mr Forsey will presumably take off where he left off, as both a brand ambassador and watch constructor. The return of the two founders as the company’s only shareholders is the latest twist in the story of the company. Besides Mr Calce, Richemont once owned a stake in the brand. The Swiss luxury group, which also owns Cartier and Lange, acquired 20% of the brand in 2006 but the hoped-for synergies or acquisition never came to pass. Richemont sold the stake back to Greubel Forsey in 2022 , just after Mr Calce came on b...
SJX Watches
As Vacheron Constantin gears up to mark its 270th anniversary in 2025, the brand has just announced Laurent Perves will assume the top job at the start of the new year. Having been the Chief Commercial Officer since 2022, Mr Perves succeeds Louis Ferla, who is now in charge of Cartier. Mr Perves is well positioned to lead the storied Geneva brand into its next chapter, having held management roles in the key departments of the manufacture, namely marketing, communications, and commercial. Although he began his career in fragrances, where he rose to senior roles in Proctor & Gamble, Mr Perves started in the watch industry a decade ago. He joined Audemars Piguet in 2014 as head of communications, before being tapped to become the chief marketing officer at Vacheron Constantin in 2016. Since 2022 he was the number two at Vacheron Constantin as chief commercial officer, where he oversaw the brand’s commercial strategy but also built relationships with key clients and collectors in general. Despite the high bar set by the Berkley pocket watch – the most complicated watch ever – Mr Perves and his team have put together an impressive lineup of products for the brand’s 270th anniversary, which will be debuted progressively over the next year.
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SJX Watches
Having covered independent watchmaking and metiers d’art highlights at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now look at timepieces that aren’t wristwatches. The Hong Kong sale is a two-part affair: a theme sale focused on timepieces of Japanese origin christened Toki, and the The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX. Both include a notable number of pocket watches and clocks across the spectrum of style and periods, from an iconic Cartier Model A mystery clock in rock crystal to the Richard Mille RM020 pocket watch. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI lot 60 – Breguet digital jumping hours pocket watch This uncommon Breguet pocket watch with a two-tone case was sold in 1926 to a certain Mitoui T.K. for the sum on 16,000 French francs. This was a period when Breguet was making few timepieces, making watches from this era, especially complicated ones, relatively uncommon. With elegantly angled cutouts for the hour and minutes, the jumping hour display makes this watch a rarity. Similarly displays were found on wrist- and pocket watches of the time, including the Cartier Tank à Guichet. This particular piece does not bear the classic Breguet style, like the coin-edged case band or engine-turned dial. The style, however, is typical of the 1920s, though the two-tone case makes it unusual. This watch was made in France, since this was produced well before the brand’s move to the Swiss Vallée de Joux in the 1970s. The white-and-pink-gold 45 mm c...
Worn & Wound
While much of the focus when discussing Hamilton’s history centers on World War II (for good reason), the brand was making waves within its repertoire decades earlier. In the mid-1930s, the country was in the throes of economic recovery after the Wall Street Crash of 1929. Initiatives like the Social Security Act and the Works Progress Administration, created in 1935, began to reflect a positive return to some stability. The same year, Hamilton Watch Company – then based out of Lancaster, Pennsylvania – offered a new design to the public: a handsome, fully gold watch called the “Ardmore.” This watch was manufactured for only three years and included a 14K gold case, domed crystal, and curved case design. Newspaper ads from the time show the Ardmore typically priced at $100 – steep enough, given the overall context of the Great Depression, which spanned the entirety of the 1930s. Perhaps this accounted for the Ardmore’s relatively short run. While most would agree we are seeing a trend towards smaller watches in the past few years, the last year alone has seemed to hasten the move towards the teenytiny. Timothee Chalamet is the current face of the Itty Bitty Watch Committee with his various elegant Cartiers, but brands are also driving forces in this movement. Audemars Piguet dropped their 23mm “Mini Oaks” in May of this year in various shades of gold. Cartier released the Tank Louis Mini in April. Similarly, Hamilton’s newest addition to their America...
Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain is the oldest Swiss watchmaker in existence, founded in 1735, as well as one of the most respected and, it is fair to say, one of the most intimidating for a newcomer to approach. This is not just because of the uniformly high prices - nearly all fall within a five-figure range - but also because of the vast diversity within the maison’s collection, which has emerged naturally after literally centuries of uninterrupted watchmaking. Many savvy watch enthusiasts, even ones relatively new to the game, are at least passingly familiar with the brand’s Fifty Fathoms dive watch and its place in that popular category’s historical pantheon, but remain largely unaware of other intriguing timepieces within Blancpain’s portfolio - some simple and understated, others paragons of horological complexity. Moreover, some of these aspirational aficionados are likely seeking out their first Blancpain watch, and attempting to decipher exactly what an entry-level timepiece from the venerable brand would be - what it costs and what it offers for that price. Continuing our “Price of Admission” series (which kicked off with Bilal Khan’s spotlight on Cartier), I will be examining the least expensive choices for an entry-level Blancpain, covering dress and sport options as well as a variety of case materials. Like most any watch brand in the luxury category, Blancpain’s most approachable models from a price perspective are those in cases of steel, rather than pr...
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One of the largest watch retailers in the world, Watches of Switzerland (WOS) marks its centenary in 2024. It has worked with several brands on limited editions for the occasion, most recently Ulysse Nardin. Based on Ulysse Nardin’s flagship Freak model, the Freak S “Watches of Switzerland Centenary Exclusive” sports a striking purple dial of crystalium, which is actually crystallised ruthenium. Starting as a single shop in 1924, WOS is now a publicly-listed group with several retail brands in its stable and annual revenue of just over US$2 billion. Its scale means that several brands have signed on to create anniversary editions for the company, including including Cartier, Bulgari, and TAG Heuer. The Freak S, however, is the most complicated of the centenary editions so far. Initial thoughts The most impressive Freak in Ulysse Nardin’s current catalogue, the Freak S scores highly in terms of construction, and innovation. Its double inclined balance wheels are a logical evolution of the original concept. In terms of aesthetics, the WOS edition is the most striking to date. The original iteration with its two-tone, rose gold-and-titanium case was perhaps old-fashioned for such a modern watch. The more recent Freak S Nomad, in contrast, presents a refined, artisanal face with a hand guilloche dial – a contrast of sci-fi watchmaking and traditional decoration. The WOS edition is uniformly sci-fi. The carousel sits on a textured, crystalline purple plate. It’s a...
SJX Watches
Breguet has a new boss, Gregory Kissling, who started as chief executive at the beginning of October. Born in Neuchâtel – just like Abraham-Louis Breguet himself – Mr Kissling takes over one of the most storied brands in watchmaking. Although Breguet has ceded ground to its haute horlogerie competitors in recent years, the brand remains exceptional in terms of history and significance. Mr Kissling will no doubt seek to restore some of the brand’s glory. Appealing products will be key to that, and Mr Kissling has a strong track record. A micro-mechanical engineer by training, Mr Kissling began his career as a movement constructor at Cartier. He soon joined Omega as product manager in 2004, where he steadily rose through the ranks in product development. Two years ago Mr Kissling was named vice president of product at Omega, making him one of the most senior leaders of the company. Gregory Kissling outside the Breguet manufacture in Le Chenit Mr Kissling’s time in product development has seen Omega unveil watches that were well received by enthusiasts, particularly vintage-inspired Speedmaster models. Amongst the projects he was responsible for was the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321. He also worked on wider projects that spanned Swatch Group, including the development of proprietary precious metal alloys like Sedna and Moonshine gold. As the chief executive of Breguet, Mr Kissling reports to president Marc Hayek, who oversees the high-end brands owned by Swatch Group, na...
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Worn & Wound
There is something incredibly satisfying about good design. Sure, this may seem like a basic statement; but, in the world we live in today, maybe it isn’t. So much of the watch market now relies on a steady IV drip of collaborations, bright colors, and sometimes novelty capabilities that classic design can feel like a sorbet course after a particularly heavy meal. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute line-up is that for me. Longtime readers may know that I’m quite fond of the classic Cartier Tank, and it wouldn’t be a stretch of the imagination to say the Reverso is cut from the same cloth. First created in the 1930’s as a watch that could withstand being beaten up during polo matches (can you think of a more 1% sentence?), the Reverso has now become a cult classic of sorts for, of course, its beauty – but also the fun tactility of the reversible case. While there have been many iterations of the Reverso collection, the latest in their Tribute line really show the sophistication and engineering know-how from the brand. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute collection features three new references to ogle: the Reverso Tribute Monoface, Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon (in steel), and the Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds (in pink gold). With three personalities to introduce you to, I’ll go through each separately. The first thing to notice about the Reverso Tribute Monoface is its size. Designed to be more in-line with the original Reverso from 1931, coming...
SJX Watches
Continuing the evolution and growth of Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG), the event will see new additions next year, with Bulgari coming on board as a major exhibitor, along with a half dozen independent brands, including Christiaan van der Klaauw, Kross Studio, and HYT. Bulgari will then become the second major jewellery to show at the event, after Cartier, which historically dominated the Geneva fair when it was still known as Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). WWG was essentially a renamed SIHH after the demise of Baselworld, and Cartier retained its most-favoured status at the event even after the transition to WWG in 2020. As WWG has evolved, however, the balance of power has shifted, as reflected by the recent additions to the event’s governing board. While Cartier and its parent Richemont once had half the seats on the board, the pair now account for just two seats on the expanded, seven-member board, which now includes LVMH, the French luxury group that owns Bulgari. The last SIHH ever that took place in 2019 Indies and youth The addition of six more independent brands to WWG add to its diversity, with a majority of the exhibitors now being small and tiny independent brands. But as was the case with Baselworld before, the independent brands participating are a mixed bad of the good, the bad, and the ugly, which is one reason why some established independent brands are doing their own thing outside the fair – and which ironically was the reason SIH...
SJX Watches
The first quarter results of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that just announced a new chief executive, illustrate a well-established trend in the luxury goods industry, with the group’s jewellery brands outperforming its watchmakers in the three months to end June 2024. Dominated by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, the Swiss group’s jewellery division eked out a 4% increase in sales, reflecting the strength of the group’s twin jewellery giants. Notably, the revenue growth was “supported by both jewellery and watches”, reflecting the brand equity of each jeweller has carried over into their respective watch offerings. The three jewellery brands – the smallest is Buccellati – accounted for 70% of Richemont’s turnover. Although profit was not announced, the jewellers are also responsible for an even greater share of the group’s profits. Watch weakness In contrast, the watch division saw revenue fall 13%. Amongst the division’s brands are IWC, Panerai, Piaget, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Interestingly, A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin were singled out for their “resilience”. Unsurprisingly, both are haute horlogerie brands that derive the highest proportion of revenue from in-house boutiques, as opposed to third-party retailers. Whether this resilience is durable is an open question, although odds are not in the brands’ favour given their respective product mix, sales strategies, and consumer sentiment. Only available at boutiques At a group leve...
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The world’s most important watch trade show, Watches & Wonders, has just announced the dates for next year: April 1-7, 2025. Practically all major luxury watch brands present their latest wares at Watches & Wonder (W&W;), including Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier. The event also named additions to the board of the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF), the governing body of the event. Chanel, Hermès and LVMH join Rolex, Richemont, Patek Philippe, and Cartier on the board, giving representation to the biggest brands or groups showing at the event. Alongside the enlarged board, the WWGF appointed Cartier chief executive Cyrille Vigneron chairman of the board, taking over from Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour, who now becomes the organisation’s treasurer. Still a key man on the board, Jean-Frederic Dufour (second from left) Give and take The changes at WWGF reflect longstanding rivalry between the brands and groups that emerged when the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, better known as SIHH, evolved into W&W; after the demise of Baselworld. Previously dominated by Richemont and Cartier, SIHH transformed into an event that included giants like Rolex and LVMH. LVMH long believed it deserved a seat on the board, according to a senior executive of its watch division. It is possible that the elevation of Cartier’s boss to the chairmanship is a concession for the jewellery agreeing to the enlarged board. Interestingly, the two-year term of Mr Vign...
Hodinkee
Talking auctions, markets, Cartier London and a whole lot more with two mega dealers. They also tell us the one watch they'd love to snag from the other's collection.
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Alongside its results for the year ended March 2024 – with revenue at an all-time high but marked by slowing growth – Richemont announced a major management revamp with Nicolas Bos promoted to chief executive officer of the group that owns brands like Cartier and Piaget. His predecessor (but not exactly), Jérôme Lambert, will be the group’s chief operating officer. Having led Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;) for just over a decade, Mr Bos skilfully grew the jeweller’s revenue more than sixfold during his tenure. At the same time, he managed to established a recognisable identity for VC&A;, one distinct from its bigger sibling, Cartier. He has spent practically his entire career at Richemont, having joined the group in 1992. Prior to taking the top job at VC&A;, he was its creative director, a role he retained even after becoming the jeweller’s chief executive. Effective June 1, the promotion of Mr Bos lends credence to talk of retirement for Cartier boss Cyrille Vigneron, who at 63 is nearing the group’s retirement age. Having led Cartier since 2015, Mr Vigneron has transformed it into a reliably profit generator that accounts for about half of the group’s revenue and a great deal of its profits. And next most profitable brand in Richemont is of course VC&A;. Jerome Lambert Some are more equal than others Mr Bos’ new job implies a demotion of sorts for Mr Lambert, who was appointed chief executive officer in 2018, after having led Jaeger-LeCoultre and then Montbla...
Hodinkee
Plus a two-tone Cartier Roadster, and an IWC Portuguese Chronograph in green.
Hodinkee
Plus a Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar ref. 5140 in platinum, and a rose-gold Cartier Tortue.
Hodinkee
Plus a two-tone Cartier Santos, and a Vacheron Constantin Overseas on a rubber strap.
SJX Watches
Cortina Holdings has just inaugurated Horology Services, the Singapore retailer’s first after-sales service centre. Situated at the Capitol mall, the centre encompasses a sizeable 142 sq m and serves as the retailer’s principal location for maintaining and repairing the timepieces of the brands represented by Cortina as well as its subsidiary, Sincere Fine Watches. Vertically integration of SAV Since its founding in 1972, Cortina has grown into one of the world’s largest watch retailers, with a presence concentrated in Southeast Asia, with branches as far as Hong Kong, Taiwan and Australia. In 2020, Cortina bolstered its network by acquiring Sincere, which is best known for its Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) specialty stores focused on independent watchmakers like Parmigiani and Greubel Forsey. The new service centre is thus a natural progression in cementing Cortina’s status as a leading retailer by enhancing the client experience before and after a purchase. The limited edition Cartier Baignoire made for Cortina’s 50th anniversary in 2022. Comfortably furnished and equipped with a private room for one-on-one consultations, Horology Services was conceived to meet international standards for service centres. The centre is equipped with the full suite of equipment and tools, and staffed by a full team of watchmakers and technicians, who are either certified by watchmaking schools or watch brands. As a result, the centre can provide the full range of services, st...
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SJX Watches
Following the original Aquaracer Solargraph two years ago, the affordable solar-powered dive watch now debuts in a more compact format with the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph that has a 34 mm case containing the solar-powered TH50-01. Initial thoughts The Aquaracer has long been one of TAG Heuer’s main entry-level offerings. For several years, however, the models were mostly big or bulky, until the brand released the more wearable and solar-powered 40 mm model two years ago. The new Solargraph maintains the familiar design and solar-powered movement but with a smaller case. With a diameter of 34 mm, this model leans towards being a women’s watch, so an in-between or “mid size” model of 37 mm or 38 mm is arguably still missing. Nevertheless, the vibrant dial offerings – that importantly do not reveal the solar panels – are noteworthy and hopefully indicate more variety is coming to the larger model. With prices starting at US$2,150, the value proposition is reasonable, given the execution of the case and dial, and the innovative solar calibre (at least for a Swiss brand). As an aside, Swiss-made solar-powered movements are relatively uncommon, making this a relatively unusual proposition. While there have been a handful of solar-powered models from Cartier, they haven’t made it to the market in significant numbers, perhaps due to difficulties in mastering production on a large scale. In contrast, Japanese brands like Citizen easily produce several mil...
Hodinkee
A beloved HODINKEE video franchise returns. Our deputy editor sits down with Brynn Wallner and Malaika Crawford to discuss three watches that say "success" – the Patek Ellipse, Cartier Santos, and Vacheron Patrimony.
Hodinkee
The continued rise of Cartier and complicated Patek, a $400,000 G-Shock, along with what's not-so-hot in today's market.
Hodinkee
From 11th-hour controversy at Christie's to continued interest in Cartier and Breguet, it was a wild weekend of watch sales.
Hodinkee
From rare vintage Cartier, Patek, and Rolex to hyper-complicated neo-vintage watches, Monaco Legend Group has put together a quintessential vintage-lover's auction.
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