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Swiss Made

Legally regulated country-of-origin mark. Since 2017 requires at least 60% Swiss production cost, Swiss movement, Swiss development, and Swiss assembly and inspection.

T Teddy Baldassarre Excl
Teddy Baldassarre Excl
1h ago

A Guide to Watch Finishing with Roland Murphy

What transforms a mechanical watch into a work of art? Guided by American master watchmaker Roland Murphy, discover the true meaning behind terms like Geneva stripes and perlage and to see how engine-turned guilloché dials are really made. By the end of this original film, you’ll be an expert on the lesser-known traditional finishing techniques that separate good watches from some of the highest-grade watches in the entire industry.More

Introducing - The PS Horology Tsuba 1720, Inspired by George Graham’s 18th-Century Watchmaking Monochrome
Yesterday

Introducing - The PS Horology Tsuba 1720, Inspired by George Graham’s 18th-Century Watchmaking

PS Horology is an independent Swiss watch brand founded in 2022 by Peter Speake, a watchmaker well-known to our readers. The Tsuba collection, an integrated-style sporty-chic watch named after the Japanese sword guard, was introduced in 2025 with the Tsuba Blue and Tsuba Dong Son, boasting a distinctive case design inspired by the symbolism of the […]

Insight: Modern Escapement Developments Part I SJX Watches
Breguet launched Yesterday

Insight: Modern Escapement Developments Part I

Mechanical escapements have long captured the hearts of enthusiasts and the minds of watchmakers tasked with improving them. Escapement development remains a steady leitmotif throughout the horological industry, even though novel escapements are only launched seldomly.  But there’s been a flurry of activity recently. Just last year, Rolex unveiled a proprietary silicon escapement and Breguet launched a highly advanced magnetic Swiss lever, revealing a glimpse of the exciting research and development work that’s being done by the industry’s leading industrial powerhouses.  The most radical take on the Swiss lever, Breguet’s magnetic constant force escapement. At the other end of the spectrum, we see more and more independent watchmakers going to great lengths to develop new escapements or provide fresh takes on history’s lesser known variants. Smaller players are naturally more resource-constrained, and their results tend to be rooted in traditional manufacturing techniques. That said, clever independents retain the capacity to produce surprising innovations.  This two-part series offers a comprehensive look at the major escapement innovations of the last few decades, which range from products of industrial technology to innovations championed by craftsmen. We begin by examining classical escapement designs that would have been familiar to past generations, which have been modernised to suit the demands of the wristwatch. Natural escapement Between the dominanc...

Hands-On: The Arnold & Son DSTB Stop-Seconds Hodinkee
Frederique Constant Alpina 2 days ago

Hands-On: The Arnold & Son DSTB Stop-Seconds

One of the brands we don’t talk about all that often here is Arnold & Son. It’s a brand that offers an interesting heritage story—Swiss watchmaking with English roots, as the brand proudly headlines on its website in homage to eighteenth-century watchmaker John Arnold. It sits within the Citizen Group as one of the brand’s prestige properties, along with Angelus, and both are led by Pascal Béchu. Many people may be surprised to find out that the Citizen Group’s portfolio extends quite a bit out of Japan, with other familiar names like Bulova, Frederique Constant, Alpina, and La-Joux Perret as key properties, but Arnold & Son stands out mostly due to its price point and complicated high horology offerings.  A little over two weeks ago, in time for WatchTime NY, Arnold & Son introduced a new update to the brand’s DSTB models—the new DSTB Stop-Seconds limited editions in Cliff Grey and Kingsand. Both are limited to 18 pieces each. On the surface, they might look just like new dial and metal combinations for the pre-existing DSTB (Dial-Side True Beat) references, but these new editions get a pretty major upgrade—hacking functionality for the deadbeat seconds. Hacking seconds might not seem like an update worthy of celebration, but for a watch that puts so much emphasis on the seconds hand, it is a welcome sight.  The deadbeat (or true-seconds) complication is, unsurprisingly, the focus of the architecture here, thanks to the mechanism of the complication iso...

Dispatch: A Long Layover In Newport For The Audrain Concours d'Elegance Hodinkee
Ming late September/early October 5 days ago

Dispatch: A Long Layover In Newport For The Audrain Concours d'Elegance

Newport was always an enigma to me. For years, I heard tales of beautiful mansions, streets of opulence, centuries of history, a very endearing grass tennis court, a music festival, and, well, sailing. Yet despite living in New York City for over a decade, I'd never made the trip up I-95 (or the Northeast Corridor line) to see this historic town. So when the invitation came from A. Lange & Söhne to join them at the Audrain Concours d'Elegance, I leaped at the opportunity. I was excited to experience the car show, but I was equally excited to see the backdrop. The history is everywhere the moment you enter Newport, and the town offers so much that it's worth the trip regardless. Audrain just sweetens the deal. The timing, late September/early October, is smart. It's just at the tail end of the season, so you still get those beautiful summer sunsets and light, but the crowds have lessened. I think these picks would hold true if you were in town for the Newport Folk Festival, attending the International Tennis Hall of Fame Induction ceremony, or just spending a long weekend here, but if watches (and cars) are your thing, there's no better place to be than Newport. With The Long Layover, I'll look at events and cities around the world and give a 24- to 72-hour watch (or watch-adjacent) guide to each. The idea is to paint a picture of the city and help contextualize the watches, or, in this case, the event. First up is Audrain Newport Concours & Motor Week. The cars might be t...

Introducing - Warm Autumnal Colours for the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton Monochrome
Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton Although Oct 26, 2026

Introducing - Warm Autumnal Colours for the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton

Although Rado is synonymous today with high-tech ceramic watches, it got a head start in innovative materials with the launch of its DiaStar model in 1962. Made from brightly polished tungsten carbide sintered under intense heat, it was the world’s first scratch-proof watch. A child of its time, the futuristic flying saucer case featured a […]

Business News: Audemars Piguet Unveils 'The Watch Keepers' - A Digital Platform Offering Certified Pre-Owned Watches Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Unveils Oct 26, 2026

Business News: Audemars Piguet Unveils 'The Watch Keepers' - A Digital Platform Offering Certified Pre-Owned Watches

Audemars Piguet, best known for its Royal Oak model, is starting its long-anticipated certified pre-owned watch service program, launching a digital platform called 'The Watch Keepers' that will bring together buyers and sellers of the Swiss brand's watches inspected and guaranteed by the company's in-house experts.  Images courtesy Audemars Piguet Designed as a digital marketplace, the program will roll out in Switzerland and Europe starting today and will facilitate sales of pre-owned Audemars Piguet watches at least two years old. Approved sellers will securely ship watches to the brand, where Audemars Piguet will examine and certify them as genuine and authentic. The brand will then photograph the watches, document them with listing details, and list them for sale at a set price or via bidding on The Watch Keepers platform, offering them to potential approved buyers using the service. Audemars Piguet will hold and store the watches until they sell and will facilitate delivery to buyers, who will receive a two-year functioning service guarantee on timepieces purchased on the platform. However, the seller will remain the owner of the watches until they are sold and delivered to a new owner. The launch of the Audemars Piguet CPO program marks a significant expansion of the brand's sales channels, as it already sells most of its new watches through company-owned boutiques. It also further legitimizes the secondary, or pre-owned, watch market and follows Rolex's entry into...

Atelier Mephalie Makes A Comeback With Three In-House Minute Repeaters From Shanghai Fratello
Oct 24, 2026

Atelier Mephalie Makes A Comeback With Three In-House Minute Repeaters From Shanghai

If you were planning to revive a sleeping watchmaking brand from the late 19th century, where would you start? Most rational folks would probably source a batch of reliable off-the-shelf Swiss or Japanese automatic movements, drop them into a neatly polished case, and spend the rest of the quarter on marketing. But Lin Xiaolin isn’t […] Visit Atelier Mephalie Makes A Comeback With Three In-House Minute Repeaters From Shanghai to read the full article.

Zenith Sets Sights on Higher Ground with Layoffs SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s ascent into fine Oct 24, 2026

Zenith Sets Sights on Higher Ground with Layoffs

After several years in the red and challenging market conditions predicted, Zenith is seeking higher ground by focusing on high-end watchmaking, eliminating about 200 jobs in the process. As reported by Swiss newspaper Le Temps, chief executive Benoit de Clerk broke the news to employees on Thursday, citing the strong Franc, US tariffs, and weak demand from the Middle East and Asia. Zenith’s pivot was foreshadowed by the excellent GFJ line launched last year, and comes in the wake of Jean Arnault taking charge of the LVMH’s watch brands, namely Zenith, TAG Heuer, and Hublot, after having engineered Louis Vuitton’s ascent into fine watchmaking. The middle market, which Zenith flees, is particularly brutal – expensive to play in and competitive. Zenith is not the only one to abandon it, Mr de Clerk also referenced the closure of Montblanc’s Le Locle factory, as that brand too shifts focus upmarket. Zenith’s greatest strengths, its mature, capable manufacturing base and wide distribution, are oversized for the brand’s production volume. Unable to feed this beast or put it to work, Zenith will be cutting about a hundred jobs, roughly half of its workforce, in Le Locle, and a further hundred in retail and distribution. In 2024, LVMH announced plans to grow Zenith’s Le Locle manufacture to supply other group brands with movements. Hublot had been using Zenith movements for a decade already, and LVMH envisioned an entire catalog of Zenith-made “in-house” move...

Business News: LVMH-Owned Zenith Is Restructuring In Major Reset As Brand Plans Job Cuts And Production Drop In Shift To High-End Market Hodinkee
Zenith Oct 23, 2026

Business News: LVMH-Owned Zenith Is Restructuring In Major Reset As Brand Plans Job Cuts And Production Drop In Shift To High-End Market

Zenith, the storied Swiss brand founded more than a century ago and known for its El Primero high-beat chronograph movement, will undergo major restructuring, forcing the LVMH-owned company to significantly reduce its workforce and scale back production and distribution, with plans to reposition the marque as a high-horology, low-volume watchmaker.  The Zenith overhaul follows years of financial losses by the brand, founded by Georges Favre-Jacot in Le Locle, Switzerland, in 1865. Chief Executive Officer Benoit De Clerck addressed employees at the company's headquarters this week, announcing the restructuring and warning that the company could eliminate as many as 100 jobs, or about half the workforce at the manufacture. To complete the reorganization and reposition the brand by 2029, the company may also eliminate another 100 positions, including the watch brand's entire international team. A Zenith watchmaker.  Management and executives are now in a formal "consultation process" with employees over the next three weeks to negotiate the terms of the restructuring and job cuts. Unia, the Swiss employees' trade union representing workers at the manufacturer, will meet with employees next week and join management in the consultation process, according to people familiar with the matter who spoke on condition of anonymity because they were not permitted to comment publicly.  "We confirm that a staff consultation process was initiated today [Thursday] concerning a proposed ...

The Montblanc Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Elbrouz LE 829 - A Hands-On Look At This Volcanic Watch Fratello
Montblanc Geosphere Oct 22, 2026

The Montblanc Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Elbrouz LE 829 - A Hands-On Look At This Volcanic Watch

Its latest recorded eruption was around 50 AD, and it might be dormant, but Mount Elbrus in the Greater Caucasus of southwestern Russia is still a volcano, so you never know. And its ashes made their way into the case construction of the Montblanc Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Elbrouz LE 829. Let me be clear: […] Visit The Montblanc Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Elbrouz LE 829 — A Hands-On Look At This Volcanic Watch to read the full article.

Introducing - Maurice Lacroix Refines the Aikon Automatic Chronograph for its Tenth Anniversary Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix Refines Oct 22, 2026

Introducing - Maurice Lacroix Refines the Aikon Automatic Chronograph for its Tenth Anniversary

Introduced in 2016, the Aikon collection has become a cornerstone of Maurice Lacroix’s catalogue, combining an integrated design with sporty details and accessible Swiss mechanics. Initially available with quartz movements, the collection added automatic versions in 2018, including the Automatic Chronograph. Now, ten years after the Aikon’s debut, Maurice Lacroix revisits its automatic chronograph with […]

Industrial Artisanship and the Paradox of Independence SJX Watches
Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref Oct 21, 2026

Industrial Artisanship and the Paradox of Independence

Independent watchmaking is often discussed as a world apart from the work of major brands. But the distinction becomes less clear when we look at how specific watches are made and who makes them, especially when it comes to artisanal watchmaking within industrial brands. From this perspective, the qualities that once distinguished the work of independent watchmakers are increasingly evident within major brands. Yet historical manufactures remain under-appreciated for exceptional hand finishing, distinctive movement architecture, and small-scale production that would attract considerable attention with an independent’s name on the dial. An objective measure Back in 2022, we published a widely cited market map of the fine watchmaking sector based on the concept of watchmaker-hours. The goal was to look beyond brand positioning and establish an objective, quantitative basis for comparing different approaches to production. The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst is a prime example of small-scale artisanal watchmaking taking place within a larger organisation The methodology was simple: take a company’s available employee hours — essentially the headcount multiplied by the number of hours in the working year — and divide it by its total output, in terms of watches per year. The result is a theoretical maximum number of human hours available for each watch. The cal. 31-260 inside the Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P typifies the industrial-haut...

Introducing - Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition Monochrome
Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest Oct 20, 2026

Introducing - Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition

Oris supports environmental causes through its watches, like the Aquis Date Yangtze Jiangtun or the New York Harbour limited editions, participating in projects dedicated to protecting marine ecosystems and bringing attention to issues beyond watchmaking. The new Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition is made with Francis Pérez, the award-winning underwater photographer and long-time Oris […]

Happenings: "George Daniels 100" Exhibition To Celebrate The Legendary Watchmaker With Some Of His Rarest Pieces In Singapore Hodinkee
Oct 20, 2026

Happenings: "George Daniels 100" Exhibition To Celebrate The Legendary Watchmaker With Some Of His Rarest Pieces In Singapore

There's no such thing as overdoing the celebration of the impact of George Daniels on the horological landscape, especially in the year that marks the 100th anniversary of his birth. Coinciding with the opening of IAMWATCH in Singapore, a celebration of the modern independent watchmaking scene, a scene that would likely not exist if not for Daniels—Phillips and The Hour Glass are exhibiting 22 of his watches. That list, which hasn't fully been made public, includes—for the first time—reuniting the Space Traveller I and Daniels' personal Space Traveller II. Photo courtesy Phillips and The Hour Glass. The fact that there will be twenty-two of Daniels' watches in one place is even more remarkable considering that, during his lifetime, Daniels alone made only twenty-four pocket watches and two wristwatches (the Spring Case Tourbillon and the Four-Minute Tourbillon) before the Millennium and Anniversary done with Roger W. Smith (not accounting for some other pieces that were made by Smith under Daniels' direction). For acolytes of Daniels, lovers of horology, and people who appreciate once-in-a-lifetime opportunities, the exhibition in Singapore is something you can't miss. Luckily, you'll have at least two chances to see the exhibition. Photo courtesy the George Daniels Educational Trust. For even more context, the Space Traveller and Space Traveller II are particularly important watches in the annals of watchmaking history. Both were made in 1982; the first was made and...

Hands-On: The New Louis Vuitton Monterey In Green And Black Ceramic Fratello
Louis Vuitton Monterey Oct 19, 2026

Hands-On: The New Louis Vuitton Monterey In Green And Black Ceramic

Names of Swiss watch brands and models can be tricky to pronounce, especially the French ones. Does the name Jay-Jay Le Coot ring a bell? I will let you figure it out and bring up another name. It’s now an official name, but it stems from the trouble some had in pronouncing the original. In […] Visit Hands-On: The New Louis Vuitton Monterey In Green And Black Ceramic to read the full article.

The ABCs of Time - The History of Chinese Watchmaking, From Reverse Engineering to a Growing Indie Scene Monochrome
Seiko s Timekeeper Oct 17, 2026

The ABCs of Time - The History of Chinese Watchmaking, From Reverse Engineering to a Growing Indie Scene

China was very late to watchmaking, with its first wristwatch debuting in 1955, while Japan had a domestic pocket watch in 1895 and its first wristwatch in 1913 (respectively Seiko’s Timekeeper and Seiko’s Laurel). Both Swiss and British watchmaking go back to the 16th century, for context. That said, China now produces more watches than all […]

Monta Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions to Celebrate their Tenth Anniversary Worn & Wound
Monta Oct 16, 2026

Monta Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions to Celebrate their Tenth Anniversary

For their tenth anniversary, Monta has released a pair of limited editions paying tribute to the Swiss watchmaking town of Neuchâtel, where every Monta from the earliest days of the brand has been developed. The two new watches, variants of the Triumph and Skyquest, offer a bunch of unique Easter eggs for longtime Monta fans while also remaining attractive and accessible timepieces on their own. Like all Montas, they are understated and built on a love of vintage tool watches, but for their tenth anniversary the team has allowed themselves to get a bit reflective in some of the design details, which I think many enthusiasts who’ve been with them from the beginning will appreciate. The Neuchâtel X collection, as it’s known, is marked most obviously by new opaline dials to set them apart from the rest of the Monta lineup. The Skyquest Neuchâtel X features an old school printed layout with beige lume for a vintage effect, as well as custom dial typography for the Monta logo not seen prior to this collection. The Skyquest’s handset is also unique to this watch, and draws on a sword hand style popular with collectors of vintage sports watches.  The Skyquest remains at 40.7mm in diameter and 11.8mm thick. The red and blue 24 hour bezel allows the tracking of a third time zone with the help of Monta’s Caliber M-23, a rebadged Sellita SW330 “caller” style GMT. The case is water resistant to 300 meters and of course is paired with Monta’s excellent bracelet with a...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
De Rijke & Co Makes Oct 15, 2026

De Rijke & Co. Makes the Capri Collection a Permanent Fixture of Its Catalog with Three Staple Colorways

At Windup last fall, De Rijke & Co. made a surprise unveiling of the Capri collection, marked by its distinctive ultra-thin rectangular case, unique curved sapphire crystal, integrated shrouded lugs, and stone dials. As the year went on, the brand made an official announcement about the line, launching a poster challenge featuring hidden Easter eggs and offering further previews at other industry events like Milan Watch Week. As the calendar page turned to 2026, pre-orders for the anticipated limited edition Capri finally opened for the initial iterations in black onyx, black aventurine, and blue capri produced in just 50 pieces each. Now, the brand ushers the model into its permanent catalog with three new dial colors: champagne, salmon, and silver. Within each dial variant, there is a balance of subtle nuances and stylistic throughlines. Each version carries a fine textured frosted dial composition that catches and diffuses the light, bringing out the broader spectrum of tones within each of the neutral colorways. De Rijke & Co. has made this effect deliberately subtle. Rather than relying on gloss or decoration, the dials reveal themselves through the curvature across the dial and crystal that’s a defining feature of the Capri. However, each dial shade also has its own cheeky personality. The salmon model offers a fresh take on a hue used throughout the history of watchmaking. Here, the warm pink tone is brought to life thanks to the contrast of the deep blue strap an...

Hands On: Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo SJX Watches
Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Oct 15, 2026

Hands On: Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo

The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo returns to Carlo Crocco’s original 1980 design, when Hublot was the name of a watch made by MDM Genève. The Tributo’s 38 mm gold case restores the original 12-screw bezel, while a Zenith-derived automatic replaces quartz beneath an austere black dial. The yellow gold variant sticks close to the original design, while its white gold sibling pairs a black onyx dial with blackened bezel screws for a high-contrast monochromatic look. Initial thoughts While today Hublot is almost synonymous with the Big Bang and other large, sometimes extravagant watches, the brand’s origin as a single model made by MDM Genève is rooted in Italian elegance. The original quartz-powered model from 1980 was the first watch to pair a precious metal case with a rubber strap, a then-unheard-of configuration that was nonetheless perfectly suited to la dolce vita in the Italian sun. The Classic Fusion Tributo honours founder Carlo Crocco’s original design, complete with 12 bezel screws and a low-profile feel on the wrist, while being sized up to contemporary standards and equipped with a competent automatic movement courtesy of sister brand Zenith. The white gold version’s onyx dial, an upgrade relative to both the original and the black lacquer of the 2023 remake, is another difference that taps into the ongoing stone dial trend. But it does so in a low-key way that makes sense for the design and doesn’t feel faddish. Curiously, the yellow gold version s...

First Look - Fortis Updates its Space Chronograph with the Fully Luminous Novonaut N-42 Halo Editions Monochrome
Fortis Updates Oct 13, 2026

First Look - Fortis Updates its Space Chronograph with the Fully Luminous Novonaut N-42 Halo Editions

In recent years, Swiss brand Fortis has worked hard to update most of its collection and mechanical offerings, including a refreshed Flieger collection, the return of the Marinemaster, and the introduction of the Stratoliner with a space-tested movement. In 2023, the brand tackled the task of revamping one of its most important models, a model once known as the B-42 Official Cosmonauts […]

Inside The Swatch Sistem51 And Bioceramic Production Sites Fratello
Swatch Oct 13, 2026

Inside The Swatch Sistem51 And Bioceramic Production Sites

In September, I ended up spending more time in airport lounges than in my living room at home. Sometimes, that’s not so bad, especially when it means new opportunities! One highlight was visiting Switzerland to tour two Swatch Group production sites. At one, I saw how movements are made, and at the other, I watched […] Visit Inside The Swatch Sistem51 And Bioceramic Production Sites to read the full article.

First Look - The MB&F; Legacy Machine 1 Is Back and Ready for Action as the LM1 EVO Monochrome
MB&F; Oct 13, 2026

First Look - The MB&F; Legacy Machine 1 Is Back and Ready for Action as the LM1 EVO

When it was launched in 2011, MB&F;’s Legacy Machine 1 seemed like a totally alien presence among the brand’s fleet of futuristic galactic-themed Horological Machines. Appearing in the brand’s first round case, the LM1’s classical Roman numerals, lacquered registers and overtly 19th-century air made it look less like a spacecraft instrument and more like a […]