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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

IN-DEPTH: Remembering the OG Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ SRPC93K Time+Tide
Seiko Samurai ‘Save Jun 8, 2020

IN-DEPTH: Remembering the OG Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ SRPC93K

Editor’s note: The Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ feels like it’s been around forever. It probably has claims, as much as practically any other modern watch, and certainly on any other diver, on being something of a modern icon with its striking ‘ventral pleats’ horizontally striping the dial, and its top to bottom blue graduation designed to emulate … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Remembering the OG Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ SRPC93K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Blancpain Introduces the Villeret Ultraplate in Steel SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava Jun 4, 2020

Blancpain Introduces the Villeret Ultraplate in Steel

A staple of Blancpain line-up since the brand was reestablished in the early 1980s, the extra-slim Villeret wristwatch is stripped to the bare essentials but classically-styled, and it’s now available in stainless steel, and also red gold. Understated and thin, the Villeret Ultraplate 6224 is an automatic three-hander with a date display, and just over 8 mm thick, hence the name – ultra plate translates as “ultra flat”. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of classic dress watches like the Patek Philippe Calatrava and the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin, the Villeret Ultraplate is a simple design that’s easy to replicate, which is why similar styles can be found in cheap as well as expensive watches. What differentiates such watches is the quality of execution, particularly in the details. The dial of the Villeret Ultraplate is unadorned, and almost plain, but the Roman numerals are solid gold appliqués affixed to the dial by hand, adding much-needed height and texture to an otherwise flat dial. The slender, open-worked leaf hands also complement the simplicity of the design. Such hands are not overly common, making them appealing. And then there’s the date. While it adds extra utility that is appreciated by some, I am not a fan. The date hampers the purity and symmetry of the dial. With a retail price of a bit over US$8,000 in steel, the Villeret Ultraplate is competitively priced for a dress watch powered by a high-end, automatic movement. Extra-thin The case is ...

Will Coronavirus, and a recession, shorten that waiting list you’re still on? An economics professor and a former Swatch Group MD weigh in… Time+Tide
Swatch Jun 3, 2020

Will Coronavirus, and a recession, shorten that waiting list you’re still on? An economics professor and a former Swatch Group MD weigh in…

Entire nations forced under lockdown, airlines teetering on the brink of collapse, fistfights erupting over rolls of toilet paper … Coronavirus has rocked the planet and God knows what life will be like when ‘normality’ resumes. It’s unlikely to be normal as we knew it, that’s for sure. In such desperate times, it may seem … ContinuedThe post Will Coronavirus, and a recession, shorten that waiting list you’re still on? An economics professor and a former Swatch Group MD weigh in… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Live pics and prices of the new aviation-themed Longines Spirit Collection Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Collection Jun 2, 2020

Live pics and prices of the new aviation-themed Longines Spirit Collection

For some time now, I think we can all agree, Longines has been on a hot streak like few other brands. All of their additions to the fantastic Heritage Collection have ranged from commendable to award-winning fire, and new iterations of the HydroConquest and Master Collections have continued to punch well above their RRP weight. They … ContinuedThe post Live pics and prices of the new aviation-themed Longines Spirit Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Brace yourself for virtual Baselworld, and get your mojo back with Navy SEAL Jocko Willinck’s inspirational watch Time+Tide
May 28, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Brace yourself for virtual Baselworld, and get your mojo back with Navy SEAL Jocko Willinck’s inspirational watch

OK, this legit feels like a Friday. It’s 3:30, and as we say in Australia, I’m absolutely stinging for a tin. Translation: a cold beer would be very pleasant if you happen to have one? I’m back in the house, out of my pimped-up pool shed that I now call home during the week while … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Brace yourself for virtual Baselworld, and get your mojo back with Navy SEAL Jocko Willinck’s inspirational watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, a modern-sized vintage charmer with heft Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 May 26, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, a modern-sized vintage charmer with heft

There is a lot to be said for a simple chronograph. Something clear, easy to read and a pleasure to look at. You don’t always want to strap a large, bulky watch to your wrist. One with more information on the dial than you will ever use, and with at least half the displays doing … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, a modern-sized vintage charmer with heft appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Krayon Anywhere SJX Watches
Krayon May 26, 2020

In-Depth: Krayon Anywhere

Krayon made its debut in 2017 with the Everywhere, an incredibly complex wristwatch that was, in essence, a mechanical calculator for sunrise and sunset. Founded by movement constructor Rémi Maillat in 2013, Krayon has debuted the follow up to the Everywhere, the simpler, sleeker – and a lot more affordable – Anywhere. Like its bigger brother, the Anywhere displays the time of sunrise and sunset. But while the Everywhere allowed the wearer to input his location and time zone for the watch to show local sunrise and sunset times everywhere, the Anywhere displays sunrise and sunset times for a single, fixed location, albeit one that can be quite easily changed by a watchmaker. Despite while the complication has been streamlined, the movement has been upgraded in terms of finishing, which is now exceptional. The Anywhere in white gold Initial thoughts The Anywhere is surprising in person. Given the complexity of the movement, you’d expect a large watch with a fussy display. But the Anywhere is modestly sized – the thinness of the case stands out – giving it an elegant profile on the wrist. At the same time, the dial layout is simple and intuitive, making it easy to understand. And it is also easy to operate, with the calendar and time both set via the crown. And the calendar, in turn, controls the sunrise and sunset function, so the interface is straightforward. Turn it over and the movement is also surprising. While the movement in the Everywhere was a mechanica...

Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Sports Watch SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding While May 26, 2020

Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Sports Watch

A marque revived via a crowdfunded effort in 2015, Czapek & Cie. has just announced its first sports watch, the Antarctique. The popularity of luxury-sports watches in steel makes that unsurprising, but the Antarctique is powered by a newly-developed, automatic movement with an interesting construction. Initial thoughts Doubtlessly conceived to cater to the current fad for luxury-sports watches in steel, the Antarctique is unsurprising in terms of design. While the overall look is reminiscent of a variety of watches, most notably the earlier-generation Girard-Perregaux Laureato, it manages to be different enough, in particularly with the C-shaped links. But more important and interesting is the movement inside, the SXH5. It was conceived by a team that includes prominent constructors like Emmanuel Bouchet, an independent watchmaker who is probably best known for the Harry Winston Opus 12, as well as Daniel Martinez, an independent constructor who worked at Sellita, MCT, and Greubel Forsey in the past. The SXH5 A large movement with high-quality features, the SXH5 has an interesting aesthetic that’s slightly inspired by vintage pocket watch movements but is clearly modern. And going by the photos, it also appears to be well finished. But the Antarctique is expensive – its price tag of US$18,900 is almost exactly the same as that of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding. While the Antarctique probably has a more compelling and unusual movement, the Czapek brand ...

Nomos Introduces the Tangente 38 Amsterdam Edition SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces May 25, 2020

Nomos Introduces the Tangente 38 Amsterdam Edition

To mark its 45th Anniversary, Ace Jewelers has once again turned to Nomos, resulting in the Tangente 38 Amsterdam Edition. It’s the third watch in the retailer’s Amsterdam series of limited editions, but the first based on Nomos’ signature Tangente, which was given a few Amsterdam-inspired tweaks in tribute to the retailer’s hometown. Initial thoughts Like Ace Jewelers’ earlier Nomos editions – the Club Campus Amsterdam and Zürich Weltzeit Amsterdam – the new Tangente features an attractive black, white and red colour scheme based on the Dutch capital’s coat of arms. The splash of red inject a playful character to what is ordinarily a monochromatic watch. All the Amsterdam-specific details add up for a coherent and handsome design, even as a stand-alone Tangente independent of its inspiration. And it costs exactly the same as standard edition, making it a no-brainer if you like the stark colours. The Amsterdam editions: Zürich Weltzeit (left), Tangente 38 (middle) and Club Campus (right) Amsterdam-inspired The strong use of black, white and red is nod to the Amsterdam coat of arms. Though the dial is high contrast, the reference to the Dutch city is subtle. The dial is stark, in matte-black with silvered minutes track, hands and indices as well as accents of bright red in the seconds hand and the triply Saint Andrew’s crosses at six o’clock. The central element of the Amsterdam coat of arms, the trio of Saint Andrew’s crosses is also engraved on...

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater References 5074P And 5078P: The Great Chime-Off! – Reprise: The Great Chime-Off! – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Minute Repeater References 5074P May 24, 2020

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater References 5074P And 5078P: The Great Chime-Off! – Reprise: The Great Chime-Off! – Reprise

GaryG had the pleasure to handle, listen to, photograph, and write about two truly splendid minute repeaters, both property of a good friend: Patek Philippe Reference 5074P and Reference 5078P. They both look great, but you’re probably most interested in how they sound. Well, here's your chance. Welcome to the great Patek Philippe chime-off!

Here’s Why: Stainless Steel Is The Most Precious Metal – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 23, 2020

Here’s Why: Stainless Steel Is The Most Precious Metal – Reprise

In the world of watches, especially with regard to collecting, rarity is a large factor contributing to the cost of a luxury timepiece. The reason is because rarity is almost always an implied condition that seems beyond control (as if it just happens). In this article Joshua Munchow explains why he thinks that out of all the metals, especially the white metals like platinum and white gold, stainless steel is the most precious metal.

After years of middling it, Baume & Mercier novelties are peaking, and people should be reconsidering Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier May 17, 2020

After years of middling it, Baume & Mercier novelties are peaking, and people should be reconsidering

Baume & Mercier’s collection of timepieces has been on a discernible upward trajectory for some time now – after years lost in the woods with middling collections and co-brands, the Geneva outfit is quietly making waves. And 2020 looks like it’s going to be another level again, with B&M; layering up their sensational Baumatic model … ContinuedThe post After years of middling it, Baume & Mercier novelties are peaking, and people should be reconsidering appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith El Primero A384 Revival Review WatchAdvice
Zenith El Primero A384 Revival May 13, 2020

Zenith El Primero A384 Revival Review

Earlier this year, during LVMH watch week in Dubai, Zenith released a variety of watches for both ladies and gents. We already looked at the Elite Classic range here. One of the pieces that stood out from this relase was the El Primero A384 Revival watch. The A384 Revival was originally released in 2019, however this year, they have gone back to a full retro look for the watch by releasing it with the exclusive bracelet that the original El Primero A384 made its appearance in.  In 1969 when the A384 was being designed, Zenith had to come up with a new case layout in order to be able to fit the el primero movement. The Zenith A384, alongside A385 and A386, were the first watches to feature the El Primero movement. Along with new case design, the Swiss watch manufacturer sought to go for a new bracelet design too. This is where the famed Gay Frères specialist company came in, to not only create a bracelet that was unique at the time, but also perfectly compliment the El Primero A384’s avant-garde design. What was created by Gay Frères was an open design bracelet, termed “ladder” bracelet. The bracelet was not only comfortable to wear but also gave it a dressier look compared to the conventional steel and sports bracelets at the time.  Stainless steel “ladder” bracelet With the return of this bracelet on the El Primero A384 Revival watch, it goes back to the origins of the timepiece and completing the once retro look it had.  The design of the Zenith El Primero...

Château Thivin Beaujolais: Burgundy’s ‘Little Sibling’ Offers Serious Wine With Joyous Exuberance Quill & Pad
May 12, 2020

Château Thivin Beaujolais: Burgundy’s ‘Little Sibling’ Offers Serious Wine With Joyous Exuberance

The always perceptive and entertaining American importer Kermit Lynch has described Château Thivin wines as resembling “a country squire who is not afraid to get his boots muddy. Handsome, virile, earthy, and an aristocrat.” And Ken Gargett agrees. The Beaujolais 2018 vintage is already being talked about as legendary, heroic, special, brilliant . . . roll out whichever superlative you like and give it a go.

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces May 10, 2020

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”

Unlike last year’s El Primero A384 Revival that was a one-for-one remake of the vintage original, the latest A384-based watch is a modern creation inspired by a vintage prototype. The Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” takes it monochromatic colours from a 1970 prototype that had a large, 41 mm case in black-coated steel. It had an entirely look and feel, but the black-and-white colour have been applied to the Shadow with striking effect. Initial thoughts The Shadow adopts a look often found in sports watch, but it’s an effective, functional look. And Zenith was smart with the details, streamlining the dial for a clean, stark look. The outer seconds track and date, for instance, have both been done away with, and the tachymetric scale has been simplified. That does affect functionality – elapsed seconds can’t be measured – but it’s an attractive look. And the micro-blasted case finish is relatively delicate, since even the tiniest nick or scratch will stand out against the matte, grained surface, but it’s a perfect fit for the design. Overall the Shadow is a good alternative for someone who likes the A385 case shape, but wants a clean, modern style instead of a faithful vintage remake. Vintage inspiration The Shadow is a blend of modern and vintage elements. The 37 mm case is identical in size and form as the A385, but unlike the A385 case that is in steel, this is in micro-blasted titanium. It’s same material used for the case of the Defy 21 Land Rover. Cre...

H.Moser & Cie – The Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon Review WatchAdvice
H. Moser & Cie are well May 5, 2020

H.Moser & Cie – The Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon Review

H. Moser & Cie are well known as a creator of minimalistic timepieces, taking a simplistic approach to even the most complex creations. The Perpetual Calendar is an excellent example of this, where only the most necessary information is shown on the dial, keeping it clean and very much refined.  Back in 2015, H. Moser & Cie took this minimalistic approach to the next level, by releasing the Concept Watch fumé. One look at this watch and you can see that the idea of keeping it simple has been taken to the extreme. So much so, the dial is absent of even brand name and logo, along with the hour indices. The concept of this watch is to evoke emotion first, tell the time second. By leaving everything bare and letting the fumé dial do all the talking, we think they achieve just that.  Reference: 1200-0206 The Concept Watch fumé was so popular after its initial release in 2015 that H. Moser & Cie officially decided to add it to their Endeavour collection. Since then, the fumé dial has been a symbolic representation of the brand, and its minimalistic approach to watchmaking.   In 2019, blue lagoon, the colour evoking the water of the tropics were combined with the Concept Watch Fumé to create the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon. The blue lagoon colour was an unexpected choice for H. Moser & Cie, which has since its release been a great success. The Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon comes in two case variants; solid white or red gold. Both models fe...

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Absolute Light SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces May 4, 2020

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Absolute Light

Girard-Perregaux’s luxury-sports watch is available in the usual range of materials, as well as some unusual carbon-glass composites, and now sapphire with the Laureato Absolute Light. At first glance it appears to adhere to a common formula – executing a well-known case design in sapphire – but Girard-Perregaux has tweaked a few elements to make it a little more interesting, while maintaining transparent-mechanical look prized in such watches. Initial thoughts Ultra-luxe sports watches with sapphire cases are surprisingly common, despite the accompanying price tag. Typically the design can be varied little, since what most brands do is produce their signature style in sapphire. So the way to stand out is to make the details a little bit more interesting, and the price tag a little less high. Girard-Perregaux has succeeded in the former – amongst the interesting details here are the movement and hours chapter ring – while doing so-so on the latter. At 85,000 Swiss francs, the Laureato Absolute Light is a lot of money, but amongst sapphire-case sports watches, the price is middle of the road. Framed by lugs The 44 mm case is typical Laureato, which is a circle within an octagon within a tonneau-shaped case. Admittedly the standard Laureato does bear a strong resemblance to a handful of famous Gerald Genta case designs, but when rendered in sapphire the Laureato does look quite original. The case construction is unusual in that the titanium lugs bookend each side ...

INTRODUCING: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, the three-quarters of a million dollar watch Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne May 2, 2020

INTRODUCING: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, the three-quarters of a million dollar watch

It takes an iron will to walk past an A. Lange & Söhne dealer without losing a few minutes of your day. The German masters ensure their collections soar above the competition, bewitching onlookers and dominating wish-lists around the world. If you’re lucky, dead in the centre of the captivating display will be a Zeitwerk … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, the three-quarters of a million dollar watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: The Bespoke (and Custom) Experience at Andersen Genève SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin May 2, 2020

In-Depth: The Bespoke (and Custom) Experience at Andersen Genève

When applied to watches, “bespoke” brings to mind the ultra-complicated timepieces made for famous historical figures like James W. Packard and Henry Graves Jr., who each commissioned a succession of one-off watches that pushed the technical boundaries of watchmaking in the early decades of the 20th century. One of those watches, the landmark Patek Philippe “Supercomplication” made for Graves, long held the title of most-expensive-watch ever sold. In the modern day, watchmakers continue to create unique watches. Patek Philippe does it quietly for its best clients, while Vacheron Constantin is more public with its Atelier Cabinotiers department that specialises in customised timepieces. Similarly, artisanal independent watchmakers like Voutilainen often accept commissions. But as a collector, how easy is it to dip your toes into the waters of bespoke or custom watchmaking? This is my maiden experience with such watches, which started at Andersen Geneve some six years ago. Svend at work Industrial vs. artisanal I first wanted to get involved in the creation of a custom watch in 2014. I already knew then it could not merely be changing colours on the dial or hands, neither could it be an engraved monogram. What I wanted was a truly unique world-time watch with a Louis Cottier-type mechanism. At the same time, I had a certain budget in mind, so I approached independent watchmakers that made watches I liked, but with steel cases. Somewhat naively, I thought adding a ti...

Watches fit for a groom – the best wedding watches of 2020 inc. L.U.Chopard, Longines and Rado Time+Tide
Longines Apr 28, 2020

Watches fit for a groom – the best wedding watches of 2020 inc. L.U.Chopard, Longines and Rado

When it comes to big days, they don’t come much more memorable or special than your wedding day, especially now, when it seems like every wedding has its own hashtag or custom location check-in. So it’s only natural that you’d want to ensure every inch – from top to wrist – is looking its finest. … ContinuedThe post Watches fit for a groom – the best wedding watches of 2020 inc. L.U.Chopard, Longines and Rado appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.