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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Hands-On: the Hamilton Ardmore Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet dropped their 23mm “Mini Oct 10, 2024

Hands-On: the Hamilton Ardmore

While much of the focus when discussing Hamilton’s history centers on World War II (for good reason), the brand was making waves within its repertoire decades earlier. In the mid-1930s, the country was in the throes of economic recovery after the Wall Street Crash of 1929. Initiatives like the Social Security Act and the Works Progress Administration, created in 1935, began to reflect a positive return to some stability.  The same year, Hamilton Watch Company – then based out of Lancaster, Pennsylvania – offered a new design to the public: a handsome, fully gold watch called the “Ardmore.” This watch was manufactured for only three years and included a 14K gold case, domed crystal, and curved case design. Newspaper ads from the time show the Ardmore typically priced at $100 – steep enough, given the overall context of the Great Depression, which spanned the entirety of the 1930s. Perhaps this accounted for the Ardmore’s relatively short run. While most would agree we are seeing a trend towards smaller watches in the past few years, the last year alone has seemed to hasten the move towards the teenytiny. Timothee Chalamet is the current face of the Itty Bitty Watch Committee with his various elegant Cartiers, but brands are also driving forces in this movement. Audemars Piguet dropped their 23mm “Mini Oaks” in May of this year in various shades of gold. Cartier released the Tank Louis Mini in April. Similarly, Hamilton’s newest addition to their America...

Is The Classic Seiko SKX007 Dive Watch Still Worth Your Time In 2024? Fratello
Seiko SKX007 Dive Watch Still Oct 10, 2024

Is The Classic Seiko SKX007 Dive Watch Still Worth Your Time In 2024?

The Seiko SKX007 is one of the most popular entry-level mechanical watches ever produced, period. But is it still worth adding one to your collection in 2024, even though it was discontinued five years ago? Let’s find out. The Seiko SKX007’s popularity is no small feat, even for a large and culturally powerful manufacturer like […] Visit Is The Classic Seiko SKX007 Dive Watch Still Worth Your Time In 2024? to read the full article.

Introducing: The Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase In Three New Colors Fratello
Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase Oct 10, 2024

Introducing: The Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase In Three New Colors

The Longines Heritage collection is my favorite one in the brand’s catalog. I especially like the Sector Dial, but many other models are also tastefully done. Last year, Longines added the Flagship Heritage Moonphase to the collection. Lex looked at the version with a silver sunburst dial, but blue and matte silver versions also came […] Visit Introducing: The Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase In Three New Colors to read the full article.

The IFL Watches Timex Q Space Dunk Slams It Home! Fratello
Timex Q Space Dunk Slams Oct 7, 2024

The IFL Watches Timex Q Space Dunk Slams It Home!

IFL Watches modifies watches by adding wildly creative, handpainted dials. The brand has used several watches as a canvas for its creations. Each release is limited, and a quick look at the company’s website shows plenty of “sold out” signs. Let’s see if the new IFL Watches Timex Q Space Dunk strikes the same chord […] Visit The IFL Watches Timex Q Space Dunk Slams It Home! to read the full article.

Business News: Gregory Kissling Appointed CEO of Breguet SJX Watches
Breguet Breguet has Oct 6, 2024

Business News: Gregory Kissling Appointed CEO of Breguet

Breguet has a new boss, Gregory Kissling, who started as chief executive at the beginning of October. Born in Neuchâtel – just like Abraham-Louis Breguet himself – Mr Kissling takes over one of the most storied brands in watchmaking. Although Breguet has ceded ground to its haute horlogerie competitors in recent years, the brand remains exceptional in terms of history and significance. Mr Kissling will no doubt seek to restore some of the brand’s glory. Appealing products will be key to that, and Mr Kissling has a strong track record. A micro-mechanical engineer by training, Mr Kissling began his career as a movement constructor at Cartier. He soon joined Omega as product manager in 2004, where he steadily rose through the ranks in product development. Two years ago Mr Kissling was named vice president of product at Omega, making him one of the most senior leaders of the company. Gregory Kissling outside the Breguet manufacture in Le Chenit Mr Kissling’s time in product development has seen Omega unveil watches that were well received by enthusiasts, particularly vintage-inspired Speedmaster models. Amongst the projects he was responsible for was the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321. He also worked on wider projects that spanned Swatch Group, including the development of proprietary precious metal alloys like Sedna and Moonshine gold. As the chief executive of Breguet, Mr Kissling reports to president Marc Hayek, who oversees the high-end brands owned by Swatch Group, na...

Out of Office: 12 Days and 3,500 Miles Through Scandinavia with the Straum Jan Mayen Worn & Wound
Oct 4, 2024

Out of Office: 12 Days and 3,500 Miles Through Scandinavia with the Straum Jan Mayen

In an out-of-place English pub with gin on tap and a stale cigarette smell clinging to everything, we sat down to look back at the epic adventure we had just completed. Twelve days and over 3,500 miles through four countries, narrated over walkie-talkies clipped to the seatbelts of our own individually rented European hatchbacks. Along the way, we saw jaw-dropping landscapes and unfamiliar wildlife, met some amazing people eager to share their culture and inspiration, and even ended up being detained during a thorough vehicle search that did nothing but ruin a birthday surprise. This trip, built on a flimsy framework rather than a solid plan, played out as many of my trips tend to, with hilarious calamity and tent pole moments that will plague the jokes of my inner circle for quite some time. This was a grand tour of two cousins separated by six months in age celebrating our entrance into a third decade on earth using our carefully selected kit to enhance our own Scandinavian Top Gear Special.  It all started roughly one year ago when I was asked if I would have a party to ring in 30, to which I replied, “oh, no, I am going to do a two-week tour of Scandinavia!” Right there, right off the cuff without any real prior thought, the seed was planted. As time ticked by and the date got closer and closer, the details started to come into view. I wanted to fly into Denmark, grab a vehicle, and drive up through Norway to the Arctic Circle, across Sweden and into Finland throu...

Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Tudor References Fratello
Tudor References Another Friday another Oct 4, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Tudor References

Another Friday, another list! Last week, we looked at the rarest Rolex Submariner references. This week, we have shifted our focus to Tudor. We decided to have a look at our favorite five vintage Tudor references. Most people will know the classic Submariner models, but there is plenty more to enjoy from the Tudor brand. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Tudor References to read the full article.

Lorca Unveils their Model No.2 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Oct 1, 2024

Lorca Unveils their Model No.2 Chronograph

Lorca, founded just about two years ago by New York City based watch enthusiast and recording artist Jesse Marchant, has unveiled their second watch. The new watch, the appropriately named Model No.2, is a follow up to the GMT we looked at in the early months of 2023, and subsequently developed a cult-like following among many discerning vintage watch aficionados. Lorca taps into something that is tough to put your finger on, but is nevertheless kind of obvious when you have one in hand. They could be vintage watches if you didn’t know any better – they are sized to feel like true mid century timepieces. But at the same time, they could really only be born out of the experiences of a present day collector and enthusiast, someone who cares about the little details enough to put them front and center on his idiosyncratic designs.  The Model No.2 is a chronograph that is immediately linked thematically with the Model No.1 GMT thanks to its vintage inspired size (it measures 37mm) and ornate details. It’s a sports watch, for sure, but it veers strongly toward the elegant end of the spectrum. This does not feel like a “tool watch” to me at all, in spite of its rather robust properties that are, frankly, fairly standard these days with any modern watch, no matter the style.  The design cue that will likely stand out most prominently to those who encounter the Model No.2 is the bezel, which has a guilloche pattern consisting of very fine straight lines engraved in som...

Hands-On: The Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary Fratello
Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar Sep 29, 2024

Hands-On: The Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary

The 140th anniversary of Breitling has brought with it three stupendous watches. Navitimer, Premier, and Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar pieces in red gold celebrate the milestone. We’ve managed to get our hands on each of them, so look forward to in-depth reviews of all three. Today, we start with the largest of the bunch, the […] Visit Hands-On: The Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary to read the full article.

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface In A New Size And Two Colorways Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Sep 27, 2024

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface In A New Size And Two Colorways

Jaeger-LeCoultre says the two new Reverso Tribute Monoface models are a perfect fit for both men and women. Well, first, we must try these watches in real life before passing a judgment like that. They look promising, though, thanks to their dimensions, which stay close to the original Reverso from 1931. Other new additions to […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface In A New Size And Two Colorways to read the full article.

[VIDEO] The Hamilton Khaki Field Goes Quartz Worn & Wound
Hamilton Khaki Field Goes Quartz Sep 25, 2024

[VIDEO] The Hamilton Khaki Field Goes Quartz

When you work in the watch industry, one of the questions you get asked over and over again is “What’s the best watch for $XXX?” The dollar amount is constantly shifting depending on who is asking the question or their level of horological curiosity, but over time I think most of develop a stock answer to questions like these. My favorite recommendation for almost anyone asking about watches under $1,000 is some version of the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. These are, and have always been, fantastic watches. They’re affordable, easy to read, and now come in a variety of sizes, dial colors, and case metals to suit just about any taste. But the not-so-secret weapon, in my opinion, is the manually wound movement. If using a watch like this everyday, dutifully winding it as needed, doesn’t hook you on this hobby, I kind of don’t know what will.  My own admiration for the mechanical versions of these watches aside, it comes as no real surprise that Hamilton would want to expand the potential reach of the Khaki Field by offering an even easier to wear quartz version. And that’s what we have here. It’s a somewhat strange proposition, taking a watch whose identity, such as it is, is based around a mechanical caliber, and removing it entirely from the equation, but it turns out that even in a quartz configuration the Khaki Field retains a lot of its character.  The new Khaki Field Quartz watches are available in both the familiar 38mm and a new 33mm size in whit...

Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm In 18K Pink Gold Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Sep 25, 2024

Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm In 18K Pink Gold

It takes guts to walk around wearing a large, all-gold integrated-bracelet sports watch. This genre is not for the faint of heart. I like to think I’m fairly spunky, so I figured, “Why not?” I reached out to Girard-Perregaux and asked if I could try the latest gold Laureato 42mm models. When a rather weighty […] Visit Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm In 18K Pink Gold to read the full article.

It’s Cocktail Time Again: Seiko Introduces Two New Limited Editions in their Long Running Series of Cocktail Inspired Watches Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Two New Limited Sep 24, 2024

It’s Cocktail Time Again: Seiko Introduces Two New Limited Editions in their Long Running Series of Cocktail Inspired Watches

There are a handful of constants in the watch world that are truly worth celebrating: the annual crush of people on Geneva each spring for Watches & Wonders, the annual debate over whether a “summer watch” is a thing, and that first comment on any IG post that begs a watch to be a millimeter or two smaller. Like clockwork (pardon the pun) you can count on these things, year in and year out, and there’s comfort in that. Another reliable watch industry trope comes to us on a regular basis from Seiko in the form of the Cocktail Time limited edition, a tradition that began with a watch that is a true enthusiast icon, and now stands as a running series of just plain good dress watches that Seiko is somehow able to keep at a remarkably affordable price point.  The legend of the Cocktail Time really begins in earnest with the SARB065, a Japanese domestic market release that caught on with collectors in an earlier era of watch enthusiasm (the early 2010s) when message boards ruled the day. This particular watch is one that I can remember owning years ago and also being among the chorus of internet commenters recommending it to new enthusiasts when the inevitable question of “what dress watch under $XXX should I buy?” would come up. The new Cocktail Time watches, references SRPK93 and SRE015, are said to be inspired by the city of Tokyo at night, and the “Night-time Tokyo” cocktail created by STAR BAR owner Hisashi Kishi. Kishi is a celebrated creator of craft cockta...

Lorca Model 2 Chronograph Review Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 24, 2024

Lorca Model 2 Chronograph Review

Sophomore releases are always tricky business. Just ask Depeche Mode, or Kiss. An innovative or evocative debut sound before the artist has really had a chance to flesh out their own voice can lead to unrealistic expectations from fans. Small, independent watch brands face a similar challenge, often expressing an exciting vision for a single watch without a firm framework to expand upon. This isn’t always the case, however, and just like Pearl Jam or The Strokes, there are some emerging watch brands with freshman success that manage an equally compelling follow-up vision. This is exactly what New York-based Lorca, founded by Swiss-Canadian Jesse Marchant, is looking to do with its new Model 2 Chronograph, hot on the heels of their popular initial release, the Model 1 GMT. The visionary behind the brand, Jesse Marchant, is also a recording artist, and is no stranger to the process. The Model 1 GMT was a revelation when it was first revealed in early 2023. The design was subtle, and the execution well considered. All the little details worked, and it was a watch that managed to find its own style and identity in a sea of watches that had neither. The Model 1 didn’t break any new ground mechanically, but it did present a unique vision that touched on multiple genre points in a cohesive manner. It also featured a somewhat polarizing bezel that would ultimately add to the depth of its character. Beyond that, the bracelet, case, and overall fit and finish of the watch unders...

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils Streamliner Chronograph in Red for Cortina SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Unveils Streamliner Sep 24, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils Streamliner Chronograph in Red for Cortina

In celebration of its partnership with its retailer in Southeast Asia, H. Moser & Cie. has created the 20-piece Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Cortina Watch. Based on its signature sports chronograph, right down to the “lobster” bracelet, the Cortina edition gets a striking red fumé dial with an “invisible” Moser logo. Initial thoughts Though the Streamliner is one of Moser’s strongest sellers, the brand hasn’t done that many limited editions of the Streamliner chronograph, so it’s not a theme that’s been overdone. As a result, the Cortina edition stands out as one of the few iterations of the model. And it also stands out in tangible terms: the red dial sets this apart from past Streamliner Chronographs that were all dressed in darker colours. At the same time, the smoked red dial is different from the usual dark blue or grey that’s the norm for integrated-bracelet sports watches. More generally, collaborative timepieces are often marked with various logos, front and back, in an unambiguous illustration of the collaboration. In case of the Cortina edition, however, subtlety wins the day. The retailer’s logo has been omitted, and even the Moser logo is barely visible on the dial. The timepiece speaks for itself, rather than the collaboration, which is a good thing. Priced at 83,000 Singapore dollars (or about US$64,000), the Streamliner Cortina edition costs about 8% more than the regular production in local currency terms (which include taxes). Given...

One of the All-Time Great Movie Watches Gets an Update: Interstellar and the Khaki Field Murph Worn & Wound
Hamilton Sep 23, 2024

One of the All-Time Great Movie Watches Gets an Update: Interstellar and the Khaki Field Murph

For as long as I can remember, movies have been my deepest obsession and primary interest. Watches came much later in comparison and followed half a dozen other deep dives into hobbies both mainstream and incredibly niche (talk to me about Scotty Cameron putters and the minute audible differences between two different brands of high end speaker cable sometime). But movies are my first love and I naturally look for connections to them in just about every other facet of life. Something a friend will say will remind me of a random piece of dialogue from some obscure 90s comedy, or a piece of music takes me back to a needle drop in a Scorsese or Wes Anderson film. And, yes, I scroll through Instagram and see watches and think about movie star ambassadors, or the films where they’ve been spotted. No brand has a longer or prouder history of being tied to the movie industry than Hamilton. Their watches have appeared in films for decades, both intentionally and accidentally, and we’ve covered much of this history at length. There’s a pattern to how these things usually work: as a movie approaches its release date, the watch brand’s PR team reaches out to websites like ours to pitch stories and introduce the watch (particularly if it’s a new variant or an entirely new watch), and that’s how these articles take shape and the watch and movie become connected in the public consciousness. The Murph, though, is a little different. Hamilton was a partner on Christopher Nolan...

[VIDEO] Living the Life Exotic: A Year and a Half with the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto I’ve Sep 22, 2024

[VIDEO] Living the Life Exotic: A Year and a Half with the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto

I’ve spent a lot of time with the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto on my wrist over the last year and a half or so. I was lucky enough to pick one up at launch, so I only had to wait a few days before this incredibly special, unexpected, and ultimately charming watch ended up in my possession. Any enthusiast can relate to the incredible excitement of getting a new watch, but we also all know it can be a bit misleading. The honeymoon period, as it’s often referred to, is where you see your new acquisition with nothing but adoration. But, as any enthusiast is also aware, this feeling can fade over time, and that watch you once thought was the greatest thing on Earth begins to lose its appeal. Perhaps it’s a touch larger than you wanted it to be, or the crown annoys you, or it’s just too damn shiny. Whatever it is, you start wearing other watches more and more, and before you know it, that watch you thought you’d love forever is on your “willing to sell” list. The point of this story is that the C1 Bel Canto wasn’t like this. The joy and excitement I got when first putting it on have remained present for the entirety of my ownership thus far. While a new watch or two (just kidding, so many more than that) have entered and exited my collection since, the C1 Bel Canto has remained in constant rotation. It’s easily one of my favorite watches because it does more than most of my watches. Not in terms of functionality, though; yes, it’s the only watch I own that c...

Hands-On: The New Aquastar Airstar Chronograph Fratello
Sep 20, 2024

Hands-On: The New Aquastar Airstar Chronograph

I confess that I look forward to anything Rick Marei and his team create. Recent offerings from Aquastar and Synchron have all been exciting, well made, and relatively affordable. Now the new Aquastar Airstar Chronograph further ups the approachability ante. This is certainly one of the cooler recent releases. There are a lot of ’60s […] Visit Hands-On: The New Aquastar Airstar Chronograph to read the full article.