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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Sep 20, 2024

Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date

Today, we’ll look at the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date. This is a wild piece, and it debuts an innovative case material that took over five years of development. Get ready for some bright visual stimulation! The Audemars Piguet Concept offerings are typically filled with new technology from the […] Visit Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date to read the full article.

Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Sep 20, 2024

Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph

Having already explained the more traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling), we now look forward to the more modern vertical clutch. This is found in some of the most famous chronographs in contemporary watchmaking, including the Rolex Daytona with the cal. 4131 (pictured above), Patek Philippe Nautilus with the CH 28-520, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph with the cal. 4401. Arguably the most advanced type of chronograph coupling mechanism, the vertical clutch as it is known today was debuted in 1969 by Seiko in the 6139 chronograph. But the concept can be found in late 19th century pocket watches, and even the inexpensive Pierce Chronographe of the 1930s. Today it is practically the default choice for new chronograph constructions. Equipped with the vertical clutch, the Patek Philippe CH 28-520 in the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A Like its horizontal counterpart, the vertical clutch serves as the mechanical link between the chronograph mechanism and the going train of a movement, allowing power to flow from the going train to the chronograph, which then allows the chronograph to run. While it fulfils the same function, a vertical clutch works differently from the horizontal equivalent, a distinction that comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. How it works A chronograph vertical clutch is similar to the clutch found in the manual transmission of some automobiles. The clutch of an automobile enables the intermittent connec...

Hands-On: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Worn & Wound
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Sep 19, 2024

Hands-On: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium

Longines, somehow, still feels slept on to me. In the hierarchy or Swatch Group brands, they sit in a place where they really should be insanely popular with enthusiasts and the mass market alike, but somehow they often feel like a brand struggling to break into the wider conversation. To be fair, I have no idea about the relative commercial success Longines has experienced over these last few years – it’s quite possible that everyone at Longines and Swatch are quite happy with their performance. Anecdotally, though, I just don’t see them on wrists very often, either at local neighborhood watch meetups, or in the wild. And that’s kind of a shame, because whenever I actually spend time with a Longines watch, I come away feeling impressed. I’ve long held that they do vintage reissues better than just about anyone. Whoever has the job of raiding the archives and picking watches to resurface from the brand’s long history has impeccable taste, and an innate understanding of the watches that hit the center of the Venn Diagram covering “aesthetically interesting” and “historically important.” They’ve done a great job of telling the brand’s story with a string of excellent heritage releases.  But Longines is too big, of course, to just release vintage inspired watches, so in a moment a few years back when it was clear that the heritage gravy train wasn’t going to run forever, they introduced the Spirit collection. An entirely new line, the Spirit watches...

Introducing the New 2024 Raven Trekker Two Broke Watch Snobs
Sep 18, 2024

Introducing the New 2024 Raven Trekker

It's hard to believe it's been over a decade since the Raven Trekker was introduced to the watch world. Back then, it was a watch I read about constantly, and I was always drawn to the value the watch presented as an early collector. Over the years, it's been a pleasure to see Steve Laughlin's brand grow-as it brought us hits like the Venture and newer co-branded projects like the TrailTrekker. But in my eyes, the Trekker has always stood at the heart of his brand. We were always hungry to see how the model would grow with each new iteration, and now, Raven has announced the latest 2024 lineup of Raven Trekker models along with a version that calls back to an earlier Raven model-the Raven Vintage.

Lunar Loveliness With The Louis Moinet Black Moon Limited Edition Fratello
Louis Moinet Sep 17, 2024

Lunar Loveliness With The Louis Moinet Black Moon Limited Edition

When we think of Louis Moinet, chronographs come to mind. After all, the company’s namesake invented the complication in 1816. Today, though, we’ll look at a different level of functionality. The moonphase complication is also traditional, but the new Black Moon Limited Edition ushers a novel method of displaying the lunar cycle. Admittedly, a stodgy […] Visit Lunar Loveliness With The Louis Moinet Black Moon Limited Edition to read the full article.

Baltic Prismic Stone Dial Review Teddy Baldassarre
Baltic Sep 17, 2024

Baltic Prismic Stone Dial Review

I’ve been covering and getting to know the team at Baltic watches for about half a decade now, and in those five years I have watched the brand – with founder Etienne Malec at the helm – transform itself from “microbrand,” playing in the vintage-inspired sandbox, to venerable player in the game, full stop. Where we once heard the Baltic name and immediately thought of watches like the Aquascaphe or Bicompax chronograph, the intervening years have seen launches like the MR-01 micro-rotor model, and the Prismic (foreshadowing) with sprinkles of appearances at Only Watch thrown in for good measure. Returning to the Prismic, that watch debuted earlier this year and represented a venture into fresh territory for a company mostly known for producing tool watches (the MR-01 being the lone prior exception). So when I walked into the Beau-Rivage Hotel in Geneva, Switzerland during Watches & Wonders this year to say hello to my pals at Baltic, I expected to see the entire current catalog and get my hands on those Prismics which I did not yet get a chance to see in person.  Little did I know that they would have three surprises on hand… in April… nearly six months before they were et to be released. I am, of course, talking about the three new limited additions to the Prismic lineup which launched this week. They take the same case construction as the existing models – 36mm wide by 9.2mm tall – but pack a real punch by way of the dials. Where the standard Prismic ...

Move Over, Seiko - Is Citizen The New King Of Affordable Japanese Watches? Fratello
Citizen Sep 16, 2024

Move Over, Seiko - Is Citizen The New King Of Affordable Japanese Watches?

Seiko has long been the default choice for affordable and bulletproof mechanical timekeepers. But is Citizen now starting to take over that role? There’s plenty of evidence to suggest that it is, so let’s examine this topic today. My first article for Fratello asked: “Is the Seiko magic slipping away?” You see, like so many […] Visit Move Over, Seiko - Is Citizen The New King Of Affordable Japanese Watches? to read the full article.

Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Regatta Fratello
Omega Seamaster Regatta Omega has Sep 14, 2024

Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Regatta

Omega has a longstanding relationship with the America’s Cup, and marking this year’s race is the new Seamaster Regatta. More than ever before, Omega took the opportunity to develop a purposeful watch for sailors. This watch, regarded as an instrument, just like the X-33 collection, uses an analog and digital display. 37th America’s Cup The […] Visit Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Regatta to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New And Fun Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz In 33mm And 38mm Sizes Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz Sep 14, 2024

Hands-On With The New And Fun Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz In 33mm And 38mm Sizes

Hamilton’s Khaki Field collection is a true classic among watch enthusiasts, especially novices. There’s something for everyone, including watches with hand-wound, automatic, and quartz movements. Also, with prices ranging from €400 to €2,000, affordable options abound. Today, we’ll look at some new additions to the lower end of the collection’s price spectrum. The new Hamilton […] Visit Hands-On With The New And Fun Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz In 33mm And 38mm Sizes to read the full article.

Introducing: The Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm Models Fratello
Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm Sep 13, 2024

Introducing: The Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm Models

Since the brand’s founding in 2018, Norqain has built a robust lineup of modern, sporty watches. Customers like the attention to detail, expensive looks, and relatively affordable entry points. At Fratello, we’ve followed this journey by covering many of the latest releases. Today, we continue this by looking at the Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm […] Visit Introducing: The Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm Models to read the full article.

Omega Seamaster: The Comprehensive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Sep 12, 2024

Omega Seamaster: The Comprehensive Guide

The Omega Seamaster is not only a modern icon among divers’ watches; it’s also the cornerstone of one of the Swiss brand’s most prominent and versatile collections: today’s connoisseur can choose between robust, sporty utility (the Seamaster Diver 300M), nautical-inspired elegance (the Aqua Terra), and understated vintage flair (the Heritage models like the Seamaster 1948), as well as an array of colorways and case materials ranging from steel to titanium to high-tech ceramics and proprietary gold alloys. Nowadays, it can be difficult to believe that such a diverse collection with such a dominant presence traces its roots back to just two groundbreaking models: a post-war gents’ watch from 1948 and its descendant, built for recreational divers, in 1957. MILITARY STYLE Introduced in 1948, the 100th anniversary of the founding of the firm that became Omega, the Seamaster was perhaps always destined to become a mainstay of the Omega portfolio. The watch, however, bore little resemblance to the one we’re familiar with today, the model worn on the screen by James Bond. The “dive watch,” as we know it in the modern sense, didn’t really exist, and the original Seamaster was instead positioned in contemporary advertisements as a watch for “town, sea, and country” - a dress watch for gentlemen that was distinguished from its many competitors by its adoption of a new waterproofing system that Omega had developed for the wartime watches it produced for Britis...

Three Weeks And Several Ocean Adventures With Tudor’s Black Bay 54 Fratello
Tudor s Black Bay 54 Sep 11, 2024

Three Weeks And Several Ocean Adventures With Tudor’s Black Bay 54

Tudor’s release of the Black Bay 54 in 2023 underlined the ongoing trend of smaller watches. In this feature, I consider what it’s like to live with Tudor’s Black Bay 54. This is less about specs and more about the vibe. Read on. While I appreciate a chunky tool watch as much as the next […] Visit Three Weeks And Several Ocean Adventures With Tudor’s Black Bay 54 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 And SRQ053 Fratello
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 Sep 11, 2024

Hands-On With The New Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 And SRQ053

Seiko’s Prospex range is rapidly growing and not just with dive watches. After last week’s introduction of the new Marinemasters, we are now treated to two Speedtimer chronographs. The new SRQ051 and SRQ053 might look familiar. That’s because, last November, we saw two Speedtimer models inspired by the same 1972 Seiko chronograph as these watches. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 And SRQ053 to read the full article.

Singapore Micro-Brand Fair “Spring Sprang Sprung” Returns SJX Watches
Oris Sep 10, 2024

Singapore Micro-Brand Fair “Spring Sprang Sprung” Returns

A fair dedicated to micro brands, Spring Sprang Sprung returns for its third year and will take place at the National Library Singapore from October 18-20, 2024. Now bigger than in previous years, the annual event will play host over 43 exhibitors this year, mostly micro brands like Singapore-based Zelos, but also including bigger names like Oris. Spring Sprang Sprung was founded Sugiharto Kusumadi of Singapore retailer Red Army Watches and Yong Keong Lim of micro brand Feynman. As in past years, the event will be more than just a watch exhibition. It encompasses talks and classes, including a leather-crafting workshop, as well as live music by local musician Sheng Li. Tickets are required to attend and can be obtained online via registration on Spring-sprang-sprung.com.  

New: Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Red Gold Deployant
Arnold & Son Sep 7, 2024

New: Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Red Gold

The Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon is a statement timepiece, with not only an aesthetically intricate design, but also an impressive purpose-built movement to match. The case size at 38mm is a delightful substitute to the previous 41.5mm version, especially for those with slimmer wrists. We like that the movement ‘fills up’ the case, visible from the case back, usually a hallmark of purpose built movements; specific movement for a specific case.

eBay Finds: A Killer Vintage Speedy, a Gorgeous Girard-Perregaux, and an Uncommon Longines in Great Condition Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Sep 6, 2024

eBay Finds: A Killer Vintage Speedy, a Gorgeous Girard-Perregaux, and an Uncommon Longines in Great Condition

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Girard Perregaux Minimalist Automatic First up this week is this sweet vintage Girard Perregaux dress watch. Like the seller says, it looks to be New Old Stock, complete with the original sticker on the back as well as the original hang tag. The case is 35mm wide, not including the crown, which appears to be signed with the GP logo. The case looks like steel, but the hang tag says steel and chrome, so I’m guessing the back is steel and the case is chrome plated. That said, it’s in perfect shape with no visible pitting. The silver dial has a nice vertical brushed finish with applied gold markers and gold hands, and a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. Seller states the watch runs well. Great looking and understated dress watch.  View auction here Vintage Rado Las Palmas  Here is a really cool looking vintage Rado Las Palmas. Rado has made a lot of great models, and I’ve never seen or even heard of the Las Palmas. The steel case has a solid, 1970’s look, with a polished finish. The silver dial also screams 70’s, with the vertical brushed finish and large, applied steel markers. Of course, the dial also has the Rado spinning anchor logo at 12 o’clock. The caseback has a deeply ...

Inside the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition Worn & Wound
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Sep 6, 2024

Inside the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition

Moving from meeting to meeting at Geneva Watch Days, it’s easy to get lost in the opulent, luxurious novelties. But when you meet with Armin Strom, you’re brought back to a kind of pure watch nerdery that transcends the luxurious surroundings of shows like this. Armin Strom, even while producing watches that I think are objectively great looking, is all about mechanical innovation. There isn’t a watch in their collection that doesn’t have a novel mechanical trick up its sleeve. The Gravity Equal Force that Zach looked at recently is a great example. It has all the aesthetic and design trappings of what we think of as today’s modern high end indie watchmaking, but the real appeal lies in the watchmaking itself. It’s an important distinction that most enthusiasts understand intrinsically – some watches and brands just have a laser focus on engineering, and that’s sort of what sets Armin Strom apart.  The brand’s big Geneva Watch Days release is, simply put, a showstopper, and perhaps the most fascinating watch of the week. It’s certainly a significant horological accomplishment. The Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition takes Armin Strom’s already unique take on the resonance concept and shrinks it down to an almost impossible to believe size in a watch that takes a completely novel approach to timekeeping and provides a great deal of practical functionality to make it downright approachable. It also just happens to be a stunning piece of horological a...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Sep 5, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport

After having expanded the line-up of its bestselling, vintage-inspired Carrera “Glassbox”, TAG Heuer now turns to something modern, the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport. Though it shares the Carrera moniker and TH20 movement, the new Extreme Sport chronograph is nothing like is retro counterpart. Available in titanium or 18k rose gold, the Carrera Extreme Sport is a big, bold chronograph with a skeletonised dial and integrated rubber strap. And at the top of the new collection is the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport, which is the most modern take on TAG Heuer’s affordable double complication of chronograph plus flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer’s offerings are now mostly either vintage-inspired and hyper-modern. The Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport definitely falls into the latter category. The open-worked dial is surprisingly intricate, with the X-shaped latticework finished with a combination of colour-treated frosted recesses and straight graining. With a skeletonised dial and chunky case, the Chronograph Extreme Sport feels similar to other watches in this segment, though the case is distinctive as the Carrera design. For anyone who feels TAG Heuer’s vintage-inspired watches are too traditional, this has the same in-house movement but presented in contemporary package. Like most watches of this style, the Chronograph Extreme Sport has an integrated rubber strap for a seamless clean profile, but never really fits as well as a convent...

A Holthinrichs Progress Report: Updates on the Signature Collection and the Ornament Nouveau Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Progress Report Updates Sep 4, 2024

A Holthinrichs Progress Report: Updates on the Signature Collection and the Ornament Nouveau

Earlier this spring, when the Worn & Wound team was in Switzerland for Watches & Wonders, we had a somewhat impromptu meeting with the Holthinrichs team at a very pleasant but nondescript Geneva coffee shop, somewhat off the beaten path of watch fair hysteria that grips the city during show season. It was there that we got our first look at the Signature Collection, a major shift in strategy for the brand, now planning to offer watches with a familiarly intricate case design but at a much lower price point than previous collections, thanks to new manufacturing partnerships and a retreat from 3D printing, a process that simply became to expensive as the brand’s designs became more complex. Founder Michiel Holthinrichs also told us about an ambitious new project during this meeting, the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that sits squarely in the haute horlogerie space. At that last meeting, Michiel only had renders of the Ornament Nouveau to show us on his phone, and some crude 3D printed prototype cases (in plastic) of the Signature Collection. Just a few months later, I sat down with Michiel and his team once again, at that same coffee shop, and was able to lay my hands on real watches that were every bit as impressive as I had hoped they’d be. It was a particular treat to see the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that the team is immensely proud of.  A quick caveat – we’re still dealing with prototypes here in the case of the Signature Collection pieces. The team had hoped to be...

Hands-On with the Relaunched Favre Leuba Collections at Geneva Watch Days Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Sep 4, 2024

Hands-On with the Relaunched Favre Leuba Collections at Geneva Watch Days

One of my first and most eagerly anticipated Geneva Watch Days meetings was with Favre Leuba, a brand that I’ve admired for a very long time, even as its modern incarnation felt like a shell of the brand of its vintage heyday. Favre Leuba is a brand with a long history, dating back to the first half of the 18th century, and is perhaps best known for the Bivouac, a watch with an integrated altimeter complication. Ownership of the brand has changed many times over the years, and in recent years the marque was controlled by various holding companies that never did justice to the watches created in Favre Leuba’s best years. This year, however, marks a new start for the brand, under the leadership of watch industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann, who had a long stint at Ulysse Nardin, and later WatchBox. At Geneva Watch Days, they debuted a robust new collection of watches that pays homage to the brand’s history while also looking forward, giving Favre Leuba the best chance they’ve had in years for real success.  Patrik Hoffmann at Geneva Watch Days 2024 There are multiple ways to relaunch a brand. You can start small, even with a single watch, and work your way toward building a collection. Or you can go big with something akin to the kitchen sink approach, with varied collections and price points. The advantage, I suppose, of going big is that a brand will get immediate feedback on what works and what doesn’t, but it also seems risky. What if none of it works? Favre Leuba...

Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver Goes Terracotta, Gray, And Green Fratello
Longines Legend Diver Goes Terracotta Sep 4, 2024

Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver Goes Terracotta, Gray, And Green

We were all quite excited here at Fratello when Longines announced a new 39mm version of the Legend Diver last November. Not only did we love the new dimensions, but the omittance of the date was also met with applause here. With a denim-like blue and a black version on offer, something told us more […] Visit Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver Goes Terracotta, Gray, And Green to read the full article.