Hodinkee
Rewind: Five Must-Read Stories About Military Watches
It's Memorial Day here in the U.S.A., so here's a look back at some HODINKEE classics.
Results for Lug-to-Lug
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Fratello
Hands-On With The 40mm Patek Philippe Cubitus - The Hate Ends Now
It’s OK; you don’t have to like the Patek Philippe Cubitus - ever. You can carry your vitriol around like a badge of honor and scream to the heavens. That’s fine, but if you choose to do so, you’ll miss a pretty damn decent watch. We can agree that the 45mm original was and is […] Visit Hands-On With The 40mm Patek Philippe Cubitus - The Hate Ends Now to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The 2025 Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Celebrating A Century Of Longines Dual-Time Watches
The 2025 Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 marks the 100th anniversary of the Swiss brand’s world-first dual-time wristwatch. You can’t say the rectangular timepiece from 1925 served as an inspiration from a design perspective, but it did in spirit (sorry about that). By adding a rose-gold-capped bezel insert with engraved numbers and indexes, the look […] Visit Introducing: The 2025 Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Celebrating A Century Of Longines Dual-Time Watches to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional Solargraph Review: Diamonds Included!
In this review, my wife road-tested the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph in pink with diamonds. I asked her what she thought of the piece… What We Love The elegant but sporty look Great size for smaller wrists It’s light-powered, so no battery! What We Don’t The crown and protectors protrude a little Maybe on the thicker side for some as a smaller-sized ladies’ watch Clasp took a little while to get used to wearing being larger than an integrated bracelet with a butterfly clasp Overall Rating: 8.5 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph in the pink dial and diamonds was a piece that came out just prior to Watches & Wonders in mid-March along with a few other Aquaracer Solargraph drops. Similar to the Northern Lights collection that dropped at last year’s LVMH Watch Week it adds to the smaller 34mm sized Solargraphs with a choice of coloured dials and diamonds on the dial and bezel. Now, this isn’t a piece I would wear, but I could see many ladies out there having this as a daily watch. I mean, what’s not to love about it? It is a great size at 34mm so it’s not too small or too large for smaller wrists. It has the diamond indices which gives it a little more of that elegant or dressy look, and the pink dial is a nice pop of colour for those that want something a little more lively than blue, black or white. Sporty elegance with the TAG Heuer Aquar...
SJX Watches
Dubai Watch Week Returns in November 2025
Now a decade old and an established event in the annual horological calendar, Dubai Watch Week (DWW) will take place November 19-23, 2025. Most notably, DWW will move to a new venue, a 200,000 sq ft space next to Dubai Mall, departing its longtime home of the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC). The 2025 event will host over 90 brands, ranging from giants like Rolex to micro-brands such as Studio Underd0g. The biggest names will have standalone spaces, including Rolex and Tudor, Audemars Piguet, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Chanel. DWW traditionally took place at DIFC, pictured above But independents will still have a prominent role in the event, since DWW got its start as an indie-centric event. The 2025 edition will give independent brands room to breathe with a dedicated space. Exhiitors include leading independents like Rexhep Rexhepi, Voutilainen, and Roger W. Smith. DWW takes place from November 19-23, 2025 in Burj Park, the landscaped area surrounding the Burj Khalifa and adjacent to Dubai Mall. Entry is free but registration is required. For more, visit Dubaiwatchweek.com.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
It’s Sunday morning, and you all know what that means. It’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we paired two legendary chronographs because we found that we hadn’t pitted these particular versions against each other. It’s been roughly a year since Omega released the white-dial Moonwatch, but it feels like it was much […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Seiko SKX173: An Owner’s Retrospective
It was December of 2011 when I picked up the Seiko SKX173 – the watch that got me into watches. I’d say it was all downhill from there, but I think I’ve managed to contain myself relatively well when it comes to watch enthusiasm – I’m more practical when it comes to collecting (don’t even consider myself a collector) since I really like to wear what I have. I do tend to lean towards the sentimental side, hence the Seiko SKX173 on my wrist today that’s been a part of my horological journey for the better part of the last 14 years. Although a lot has happened between then and now, I remember choosing the Seiko after hitting the watch forums and getting a better idea of what kind of watch I wanted. I wanted something that was rugged, durable, cool looking, and mechanical. At the time, I only had limited experience with some Timex quartz watches, and the SKX felt like a huge bump up. I paid roughly $250 for the SKX on Amazon and in a few days, the watch arrived. It came on a rubber strap, which immediately got me searching around for other options. I ended up buying a WJean Super Oyster bracelet (which looking at it now is more jangly than it is super), a single pass leather nato (didn’t know that leather on a diver was a faux pas), and a chunky military-style nato from CountyComm. For me, that was all I needed. A solid watch, a few strap options, and that’s all. Man, how times were simpler. The Seiko SKX was a springboard for me, launching me into the worl...
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Miami Grand Prix With Miami's Most Exclusive Car Club
The Concours Club isn't just a race track, a garage, or a comfy lounge. It's like a country club for the world's biggest car lovers – and they love watches too.
Worn & Wound
Editorial: The Apple Watch Turns Ten
The Apple Watch is not a very good watch. I’d even go so far as to say that it represents everything I don’t like in a watch. It’s disposable, generic to the point of ugly, and demands a level of focus and engagement I find downright offensive. To borrow a phrase from the inimitable Peter Griffin, “It insists upon itself.” And yet, the Apple Watch has become an invaluable, irreplaceable part of my life. This spring marks a decade since the Apple Watch first went on sale. I bought mine shortly after launch, in anticipation of my freshman year of college, at a point when I was still trying to sort out what interests and identity I would carry with me into that new phase (turns out, tech-head, sort of no; watch geek, undoubtedly yes). The Apple Watch, along with a beat-up Victorinox and a vintage Hamilton, made up my total stable of wrist-borne options my first year in Granville, Ohio. You’d think with that few watches available to me, the Apple Watch would have gotten a lot of wrist time, and it did, at least for the first few months. Still, by the end of my freshman year, I was basically done with the Apple Watch. It was clear even then that the premise had some promise, but I felt like I’d gotten all I could out of the nascent device. The first Apple Watch was, if I’m being honest (and I think Tim Cook would agree with me), kind of useless - more a proof of concept or statement of intent than a finished product. It did very little, and what it did do was ...
Worn & Wound
Reintegration: Unexpected Integrated Bracelet Releases from Meistersinger and Chronoswiss
If you had told me a few years ago that we’d still be seeing integrated bracelet watch designs in 2025, I probably would not have believed you. But what felt like many a passing fad that would take a year or two to cycle through has not only stuck around, but has become a bit of a necessity for brands seeking to expand their customer base. As such, at Watches & Wonders 2025 integrated bracelets were still prevalent, even getting a spotlight thanks to the Rolex Land Dweller. Well, I’m not here to cover that well-trodden territory again. Rather, I wanted to look at two integrated launches that have gone a little under the radar, both of which lean towards the quirky side of things: the Meistersinger Kaenos and the Chronoswiss Pulse One. The Meistersinger Kaenos Meistersinger is a curious brand. They are at once an oddball, focusing almost exclusively on single-handed watches, which is a very strange thing to do, and yet somewhat conservative, with designs that lean towards the traditional. Admittedly, as is evidenced by the recently released Breguet Classique Souscription, single-handed watches are rooted in 18th century design, but I digress. Well, the Kaenos mixes things up for the brand, introducing a far sportier and more aggressive style into their line. Measuring 40mm in diameter and 11.2mm in height, at a glance, the design of the Kaenos’ case and bracelet is pretty typical of integrated bracelet designs. A sort of barrel-shaped case with a circular dial opening...
Fratello
Five Fun And Funky Watches From Tudor, IWC, Longines, And More - Which Would Be Your Pick?
Sometimes we just want something a little unusual in the collection-something we can look down at and know is an entirely unusual or funky design. Today, we’re looking at a few vintage and modern options for funky watches. However, I’d ask readers to provide their suggestions in the comments! We saw at Watches and Wonders […] Visit Five Fun And Funky Watches From Tudor, IWC, Longines, And More - Which Would Be Your Pick? to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition
The Montblanc 0 Oxygen series celebrates explorers and mountaineers. These robust watches often feature worldtimer functionality and a second 12-hour time display. Today’s 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition does too, but it also brings impressive dial-making techniques and advanced materials. With a name like Montblanc, it makes sense that the brand pays […] Visit Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Celebrates their Fourth Anniversary with the New “Red Hunter”
It feels like Furlan Marri has been around longer than four years, doesn’t it? Their trajectory from “Kickstarter brand” to one of the most consistently interesting small indies/micros/whatever has been fascinating to watch simply because it doesn’t correlate at all with the typical growth of a watch brand, regardless of the size. They are doing interesting things that are purely design driven (like the Disco Volante I reviewed last year) but are also pushing the envelope when it comes to mechanical watchmaking. They have fully transcended, in my opinion, all of the baggage that comes with launching on Kickstarter, to the point that we don’t even think about how it all started unless we’re intentionally meant to look back, which is part and parcel with an anniversary watch release like this one. To celebrate four years, Furlan Marri has unveiled the Red Hunter, a watch meant to pay tribute to classic hunter-case pocket watches and officer-style wrist watches. This is the brand’s first watch to measure 36mm in diameter, which I guess is a little surprising considering the vintage inspiration that runs through all of Furlan Marri’s designs, and the conventional wisdom that 36mm is perhaps the most classic, universal watch diameter. In any event, the size makes a lot of sense here when taken together with all the other little vintage inspired details. Let’s start with the dial, which is a new design from Furlan Marri. It’s a black lacquer with a subtle s...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: a Few Weeks with the James Brand Elko
For many pocket-dumping EDCers, the knife has pride of place in one’s kit. Bags are commonly rotated depending on the use-case. You likely wouldn’t bring a hiking rucksack to the office. Watches, too, are usually swapped out daily (and for our crowd… maybe more). However, a good pocket knife can be a consistent staple in one’s everyday carry. Especially one small enough to fit conveniently on your keyring – like the Elko from the James Brand – which I’ve gotten to put through its paces the past few weeks. My love of pocket knives predates my watch collecting interests by over a decade. In fact, getting into the mechanical minutiae of blades likely helped pave my way into the field of horology. I think knives are one of the best tools to keep with you daily, and as a result, I’ve lost more than a handful to unplanned metal detectors and security screening processes. So it goes. Therefore, I’m always looking to increase the size of my collection and have a variety of styles on hand, so I’m never without one close by. My knife collection ranges widely, though I tend to opt for blades that are legal to conceal in Colorado: 3.50 inches. It goes without saying that this measurement changes based on someone’s country and state, so do your own research here. The Elko is well under my state’s legal limit – the blade is a petite 1.74 inches – with a total length, including the handle, of 4.33 inches I was smitten with the Elko from the moment of my unboxi...
Worn & Wound
Our Favorites from Watches & Wonders 2025
Did Watches & Wonders even happen if we don’t do a full team “Best Of” post? Hopefully, we’ll never find out. The verdict on this year’s show seems to be that it was stronger than expected, with plenty of iterative releases, but iterative releases that people generally seem to like, and want to buy (a good thing for the industry at a tricky moment, for sure). One thing that we get more sure of every year, though, is that no matter what the consensus happens to be on the show itself, there are always great watches there, and our contributors and Editorial team pick their favorites below. Zach Weiss One of the best experiences at Watches & Wonders is simply being surprised. We often go into meetings having already read the press releases, and thus pretty much know what to expect. Well, this year I had the rare and fun opportunity to go in fairly blind to my meeting with Angelus as I simply hadn’t gone through their materials yet, and as a relatively quiet “indie” (quotes because they are technically under the umbrella of Citizen, though clearly operate independently), their watches hadn’t been splashed across my social media yet. So, with fresh eyes, I was presented this year’s main novelty, a trio of exceptional chronographs that I haven’t stopped thinking about since. In 2023, Angelus debuted the Le Fabrique collection via a collaboration with Massena LAB called the Chronographe Médical. A spiritual recreation of an archival piece, this monopusher ...
Monochrome
The Evergreens – The Complete History of the Rolex Milgauss
The Milgauss is an unusual model in Rolex’s lineup and certainly a niche offering, generally classified as a watch for scientists. It didn’t have the cool factor of racecars, jets, and James Bond, and, like many models in their early years, tended to sit on shelves, attracting scant interest. The Daytona was also a rather […]
Hodinkee
Panerai: The Making Of A Design Icon, Part 2
In part two of this series, we take a closer look at Panerai's ongoing innovations in materials and complications – and how they get from the "Laborotorio di Idee" to you.
Fratello
Hands-On With The With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual In Two Of Three Soft New Shades
Of course, I was impressed by the new Land-Dweller, but I wasn’t charmed by it. To be honest, it’s been a while since The Crown launched a watch that charmed me. Yes, every watch is of superb build quality and a benchmark, but just like a Mercedes S-class, a modern Rolex is not exactly lovable. […] Visit Hands-On With The With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual In Two Of Three Soft New Shades to read the full article.
Fratello
Retrospective: An Unexpected NOS Mimo Tuxedo Tank Find
A Mimo watch has been on my wishlist for almost a decade. Although I am on a hunt for different Mimo models, I simply couldn’t resist this tuxedo tank. With an original strap, buckle, and even the brand tag, it looks like it just left the Mimo factory. Mimo is one of the brands we […] Visit Retrospective: An Unexpected NOS Mimo Tuxedo Tank Find to read the full article.
Fratello
Chanel Launches The J12 Bleu Collection In Matte Blue Ceramic
If your favorite cologne is Bleu de Chanel, look no further. Chanel dresses the J12 Bleu in matte blue ceramic this year to celebrate the watch’s birthday. With 2025 marking a quarter century since the first J12 in black ceramic (and 22 years since the first white ceramic version), it’s time for a new color. […] Visit Chanel Launches The J12 Bleu Collection In Matte Blue Ceramic to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel
Anyone familiar with Moser’s concept watches knows that ‘concept’, in Moser’s vocabulary, means maximum minimalism: no logos, no indices, no inscriptions…just the bare essentials. Moser is also intimately associated with beautiful dials and has shown how traditional métiers d’art, like Grand Feu enamel, can create strikingly contemporary dials. The latest Endeavour Tourbillon Concept is a […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Rolex GMT-Master II Left Hand In White Gold With Green Dial
A bit late for St. Patrick's day, but the GMT Master-II goes green, and you'll need the luck of the Irish to get one.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Goes Automatic (Again)
Don't call it XL, but maybe "Jumbo," the newest Tank LC features a self-winding caliber, for the first time in decades.
Fratello
Boom! The New TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Collection
If last May’s TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith announcement left you yearning for a regular-production retro-inspired collection, then today is your lucky day. The new Formula 1 Solargraph collection is here, and I think it goes a long way toward satisfying the legions of fans asking for a return to the colorful good old […] Visit Boom! The New TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Collection to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Review: Luxury & Precision With The Cartier Santos Dual Time
The Santos de Cartier Dual Time was a hit at Watches & Wonders 2024. So with one week to go until we’re back in Geneva for this year’s fair, why not review the perfect travel companion? What We Love The two-tone grey dial works incredibly well The dark grey alligator leather strap gives the watch a whole new look The versatility of the watch for different occasions What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet (Still) There could have been more contrast in the dial to aid legibility in low light Could lumed numerals make this more of a complete swatch? Overall Score: 9/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 This will be a review with a difference. Normally when one of us at Watch Advice reviews a watch, we try not to review another one that is very similar to it, rather we would opt for another team member to do it and give you their experience with it. After all, we all have different tastes in watches, dress styles and most importantly, wrist size. But, I decided to break the rules a little with this one. I reviewed the Santos de Cartier Large Brown Dial in June last year, but while I was reviewing that, I kept thinking it would be great to have reviewed the new Dual Time as well. So fast-forward almost a year later and we got our hands on the Dual Time thanks to our friends at Cartier and without giving too much away too early, I think it’s better… First Impressions The Santos dual time was one of the major rele...
Fratello
Introducing: The Citizen Limited-Edition 30th Anniversary Models
This year, Citizen celebrates the 30th anniversary of its The Citizen line. That may sound surprising, but it’s because the brand’s top-tier watches haven’t always been available globally. Little by little, though, we’re seeing more of these creations that often feature uncommon dial materials and highly accurate movements. Today, we’ll look at two limited global […] Visit Introducing: The Citizen Limited-Edition 30th Anniversary Models to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Stylish Löbner Sledge In Black And Silver
When three Löbner watches landed on my desk, I must admit that I wasn’t familiar with the Munich-based brand. As soon as I took the watches out of their pouches, though, they intrigued me. They look different from many other watches, and some unique traits of these timepieces make them stand out for more than […] Visit Hands-On With The Stylish Löbner Sledge In Black And Silver to read the full article.
Fratello
How The Black-Dial Zenith Chronomaster Original Changed My Collecting Perspective
When Zenith first introduced this black-dial version of the Chronomaster Original in September 2023, it felt like a déjà vu. At first glance, it immediately felt like a dial variant that the brand would have released in the early ’70s. We know that didn’t happen, but here we are, 50+ years later, with a dial […] Visit How The Black-Dial Zenith Chronomaster Original Changed My Collecting Perspective to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Voluptuous Yet Elegant Trilobe Une Folle Journée Rhodium-Plated Editions In Black, Blue, And Green
Une folle journée is French for “a crazy day.” When you first put a Trilobe Une Folle Journée on your wrist, it is not a normal day anymore, even though it might have started like any other. That’s quite an achievement for the young Parisian watch brand. The “Crazy Day” with its time displayed by […] Visit Introducing: The Voluptuous Yet Elegant Trilobe Une Folle Journée Rhodium-Plated Editions In Black, Blue, And Green to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Seiko’s Advanced Astron Collection Gets Four New References
If you like your watches complicated and your timezones varied, chances are you’re already aware of the Seiko Astron GPS Solar line, first launched in 2012. No, the watch doesn’t shout haphazard driving directions at you. Instead, its latest models use GPS technology and a solar-sensitive dial to automatically update the time according to your geographic position up to twice a day. But Seiko wasn’t done there-almost exactly a year on from the introduction of the Caliber 5X83, the first pairing of Dual-Time tech with a chronograph function, Seiko has unleashed four new Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs. Each of the four new watches-references SSH175, SSH177, SSH179 and limited-edition SSH180-features a titanium bezel with a sapphire crystal insert, adding a touch of practicality and elegance to the already robust profile of the Astron. An imposing 44mm mirror-polished titanium case houses the Caliber 5X83 movement, which promises a litany of advanced features, most prominent of which is the aforementioned GPS-controlled time and time zone adjustment. A world time function, perpetual calendar correct to the year 2100, automatic DST adjustment, AM/PM and signal reception indications, accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month, and more round out the slate of functions. Of course, the titular chronographs also loom large on the dial, with a 1/20th second counter at 12 o’clock and a 12-hour counter with hours and minutes at 6 o’clock during chronograph operation...