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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Louis Erard and Atelier Oï Release their Second Collaboration Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Apr 19, 2024

Louis Erard and Atelier Oï Release their Second Collaboration

Getting outside Palexpo is essential during Watches & Wonders week. Not only because being inside the massive complex for days on end will quickly wreak havoc on your mental and physical health (it’s dry in there, and not seeing any natural light can’t be great for you), but because there’s so much watch related stuff happening in Geneva parallel to what’s going on at Watches & Wonders. Many smaller indies post up at hotels along Lake Geneva and take meetings with media and their dealer networks, and over the last three years these meetings have been some of our favorites to attend. One of them, with Louis Erard, produced an almost obscene level of interest. I think each of mentally bought a watch in the hour we spent chatting with CEO Manuel Emch.  The watch you see here, a new collaboration between Louis Erard and atelier Oï, is the only watch we can show you from that meeting. Everything else is under embargo, but will be revealed throughout the rest of the year. But man, I was glad to see this new limited edition on the table almost immediately after sitting down. It’s the same design as a watch in my own collection, featuring a dial made up of deeply cut striated ridges that fan out like a, well, like a fan, I guess. No markers or branding, but each ridge is effectively a minute marker, so telling the time is fairly straightforward after a brief adjustment period. This LE has a gold tone dial, which leaves a very different impression than my silvery gray v...

Baltic Kicks off the Tour Auto with a Limited Edition Tricompax Chronograph Worn & Wound
Baltic Kicks off Apr 18, 2024

Baltic Kicks off the Tour Auto with a Limited Edition Tricompax Chronograph

The Tour Auto, rooted in the historic Tour de France Automobile dating back to 1899, has become a pinnacle of motorsport, featuring legendary drivers like Maurice Trintignant and iconic brands such as Ferrari and Porsche. Today, over 250 competing crews traverse France’s scenic roads and racetracks, captivating spectators. Baltic returns for a second year in the row as the Official Timekeeper, and, in commemoration of the event, has produced 500 Tricompax timepieces. The Tricompax’s colorway strikes a balance between tradition and modernity, drawing inspiration from the excitement and iconography of the race. Its dial, in a matte light beige, complements three black-ringed subdials, reminiscent of the Tour de France Automobile’s colors. Accentuated by a black railway track, it pairs harmoniously with the tachymeter scale bezel, designed for speeds of up to 200 km/h. The Tricompax is encased in a 39.5mm 316L stainless steel case, clocking in at a thin 13.5mm profile. With a 63-hour power reserve from the Sellita SW510-M manually wound movement, 50-meter water resistance, and its double-domed sapphire crystal, each feature of this watch is meant for the long-haul.  Each watch comes with both a steel flat link bracelet and a navy blue Alcantara strap, housed in a beautifully presented custom-made case. Also included in the case is a Rally Timer comprising two emblematic motorsport tools: a stopwatch with a matte light gray dial, operated by a Hanhart hand-wound movemen...

The Nivada F77 Returns In Titanium And Steel With Four Fresh New Dial Variants Fratello
Apr 12, 2024

The Nivada F77 Returns In Titanium And Steel With Four Fresh New Dial Variants

Since its release, the F77 has become a polarizing model. Nivada fans love it, but others may not be enthusiastic due to its integrated-bracelet look. I won’t get into that debate. This new F77 is a mere re-edition of a vintage piece, and I find the watch a beautifully executed reinterpretation of the 1970s model. […] Visit The Nivada F77 Returns In Titanium And Steel With Four Fresh New Dial Variants to read the full article.

Zodiac Releases Two New Versions Of Its Popular Super Sea Wolf GMT Fratello
Zodiac Releases Two New Versions Apr 8, 2024

Zodiac Releases Two New Versions Of Its Popular Super Sea Wolf GMT

The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf GMT has long been one of my favorite GMT watches. Not only do I like its functionality and overall design, but I also appreciate how Zodiac has never been afraid to use some amazingly bright colors for the GMT bezels. As a result, the Super Sea Wolf GMT has always […] Visit Zodiac Releases Two New Versions Of Its Popular Super Sea Wolf GMT to read the full article.

Introducing – SpaceOne is back with an Accessible Wrist-Sized Tellurium Monochrome
Vulcain Apr 4, 2024

Introducing – SpaceOne is back with an Accessible Wrist-Sized Tellurium

Last year, the bold and ultra-modern SpaceOne Jumping Hour emerged from the visionary mind of Théo Auffret, a young Parisian independent watchmaker celebrated for crafting intricate timepieces like the Tourbillon Grand Sport and Guillaume Laidet, the man spearheading the revival of Nivada, Excelsior Park and Vulcain. And it’s now time for the duo to present its […]

#TBT Orfina Golden Flame Double Automatic Twin Special Ref. 6938 Fratello
Apr 4, 2024

#TBT Orfina Golden Flame Double Automatic Twin Special Ref. 6938

It looks like a joke, and it sounds like one too, but it’s a serious piece of wrist equipment. The name Orfina Golden Flame Double Automatic Twin Special sounds like a headline from a cheap tabloid - a watch you couldn’t take seriously today. But looking at it closely, there are so many distinct details […] Visit #TBT Orfina Golden Flame Double Automatic Twin Special Ref. 6938 to read the full article.

#TBT Three Honda Watches I Wanted - A Rolex Date, Steering Wheel, And Cheap Quartz F-1 Fratello
Rolex Date Steering Wheel Mar 28, 2024

#TBT Three Honda Watches I Wanted - A Rolex Date, Steering Wheel, And Cheap Quartz F-1

Let’s just say I have too many Honda cars. No, I’m not ready for a full coming-out. However, I am ready to share with you three vintage watches carrying the Honda logo that made my heart skip a beat. Let’s see how many fans of classic Honda cars we have among the Fratelli. Put a […] Visit #TBT Three Honda Watches I Wanted - A Rolex Date, Steering Wheel, And Cheap Quartz F-1 to read the full article.

Bear Essentials: The Enduring Panda-Dial Chronograph Fratello
Mar 28, 2024

Bear Essentials: The Enduring Panda-Dial Chronograph

The style and fashion trends of the 1960s can mostly only be described as regrettable in these times of image consciousness and scrutiny on social media. Fashion faux pas like bell-bottomed trousers, tie-dye, and platform shoes have caused more than a slight blush to the cheeks of those who championed them back in the Swinging […] Visit Bear Essentials: The Enduring Panda-Dial Chronograph to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - RJ’s Picks From Seiko, Hamilton, And Christopher Ward Fratello
Christopher Ward Picking three watches under Mar 18, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - RJ’s Picks From Seiko, Hamilton, And Christopher Ward

Picking three watches under €1,000 that I think are the best buys in 2024 is not easy. What I always find amusing are comments under articles that say, “This list is not valid if it doesn’t include brand X, Y, or Z.” But I understand comments like these if you’re a fan of one of […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - RJ’s Picks From Seiko, Hamilton, And Christopher Ward to read the full article.

Hands On: The Longines Conquest Chronograph 42 mm SJX Watches
Longines Conquest Chronograph 42 mm Mar 15, 2024

Hands On: The Longines Conquest Chronograph 42 mm

Longines facelifted the Conquest Chronograph last year, giving it more vintage flavour while retaining the sporty style of its predecessor and also the slightly-too-big case. The new look is reminiscent of a more famous sports chronograph, but compared to its predecessor, the new Conquest is more coherent. Initial thoughts At a distance, the Conquest Chronograph bears a striking resemblance to the modern Rolex Daytona, which is unsurprising given the commercial success of the Cosmograph (hence Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport as well). But in the hand it is clearly a larger, chunkier watch than its famous rival, and upon closer inspection, the dial design is also distinct with several interesting details. The previous Conquest tried to be different and ended up being too much. That design was characterised by an oversized “12” that was recognisable but not sophisticated. Although the resemblance to the modern Daytona is apparent at a distance, the dial gets more interesting up close (and also gives off some Paul Newman vibes). The new Conquest has a cleaner dial design with a slightly retro style thanks to a sector-like chapter ring. It does without a date, something purists will approve of. Although all four dial colours share the same design, two stand out. The champagne dial is a unique colour for a sports chronograph in this price segment, while the silver dial has just the right amount of red accents, with the red-outlined luminous squares being particularly interest...

Hands-On With The Titoni Heritage Bicompax Chronograph Fratello
Mar 10, 2024

Hands-On With The Titoni Heritage Bicompax Chronograph

Today, we’re taking a look at the latest entry from Titoni. The Heritage Bicompax Chronograph is, as you’d expect, a vintage-inspired piece that takes its cues from historic ’50s and ’60s models. It’s clean, uses a reliable automatic caliber, and is relatively affordable. Let’s take a closer look. As a fan of vintage watches, I […] Visit Hands-On With The Titoni Heritage Bicompax Chronograph to read the full article.

Seiko Introduces The Classic Series With Five New Soft And Gentle References Fratello
Seiko Introduces Mar 7, 2024

Seiko Introduces The Classic Series With Five New Soft And Gentle References

What brand do you turn to when you’re looking for a watch with a classic design? Well, to be honest, there are many such brands out there. But one brand that certainly comes to my mind is Seiko. It looks like the people at Seiko think similarly about their watches because, today, the Japanese watchmaker […] Visit Seiko Introduces The Classic Series With Five New Soft And Gentle References to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-A - Finally, A Unimatic Watch For Smaller Wrists Fratello
Unimatic Mar 5, 2024

Hands-On With The Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-A - Finally, A Unimatic Watch For Smaller Wrists

Jorg probably doesn’t know this, but every time I see him walking into the office with a Unimatic on his wrist, I get a little more jealous. I’m a fan of the brand’s less-is-more design approach. Plus, the watches look like they can take a beating, and they have a ton of character on the […] Visit Hands-On With The Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-A - Finally, A Unimatic Watch For Smaller Wrists to read the full article.

Buy-In Required: Non-Watch Brands That Stand Tall - Hermès, Louis Vuitton, And Chanel Fratello
Louis Vuitton Mar 5, 2024

Buy-In Required: Non-Watch Brands That Stand Tall - Hermès, Louis Vuitton, And Chanel

Some people just can’t get enough. Enough of the right logo, that is. “Logo luxury” is still very much alive, no matter the attention “quiet luxury” received recently. Logos have a hypnotic allure to some people. People under the spell of the right monogram will want to buy into the brand badly, desiring everything with […] Visit Buy-In Required: Non-Watch Brands That Stand Tall - Hermès, Louis Vuitton, And Chanel to read the full article.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Mar 3, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 75: Can Watches be Funny?

On episode 75 of A Week in Watches, we look at a handful of new releases. Things are a bit quiet right now with British Watchmaker’s Day and the Watches and Wonders looking around the corner. That said, we’ve got some cool stuff to look at, from a very dark Minase to some globe-trotting Farers to a departure for Fears and a funny Frederique Constant. This episode of a Week in Watches is presented by the all-new Tissot pr516 mechanical chronograph – based on a beloved 1970s design; this thoroughly modern reinterpretation is powered by a Valjoux hand-wound movement all for under $2,000 dollars – click here to find out more. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 75: Can Watches be Funny? appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Dior Revives the Chiffre Rouge Chronograph SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton all Feb 15, 2024

Dior Revives the Chiffre Rouge Chronograph

In the midst of a resurgence that makes it both one of the biggest and fastest growing luxury brands, Dior nonetheless has a barely-there presence in the watch segment – particularly in mechanical watches – despite having offered watches since 1975. This contrasts with its peers like Chanel, Hermes, and Louis Vuitton, all of which have invested significant resources into making serious watches, particularly compilations and métiers d’art offerings. Now Dior is embarking on an overhaul of its mechanical watch offerings by returning to the Chiffre Rouge, a model first unveiled in 2004 that was distinguished by an asymmetrical case accentuated by a red crown or pusher at four. More streamlined and almost monochromatic, the Chiffre Rouge Black Ultra-Matte Chronograph has a black-coated, 41 mm case containing the Zenith El Primero movement. Initial thoughts The Chiffre Rouge stood out as a memorable design model from the 2000s, although its mechanics were rarely serious. The earlier chronograph models, for instance, relied on either ETA or quartz movements. Dior also never made a real effort to upgrade the model, so it was mostly perceived as a “fashion” watch. The redesign gives the Chiffre Rouge more appeal, as it retains the original, distinctive styling but with a definitely superior movement. That said, I would have done away with the date window at four for a clean geometric-patterned dial. The key feature of the new chronograph is the Zenith El Primero, which ...

Atelier Wen Kicks Off Its “Inside The Atelier” Video Series Fratello
Atelier Wen Feb 13, 2024

Atelier Wen Kicks Off Its “Inside The Atelier” Video Series

Today, we won’t talk about the latest release from Atelier Wen. We will briefly discuss a new venture from the Chinese marque called Inside the Atelier. This is a behind-the-scenes look at the various suppliers supporting the brand’s watches. It focuses on the people, their inspiration, and where they work. The first episode is out, […] Visit Atelier Wen Kicks Off Its “Inside The Atelier” Video Series to read the full article.

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Sport Titanium SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Feb 12, 2024

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Sport Titanium

Zenith has just taken the covers off the Chronomaster Sport Titanium, essentially a lightweight variant of the bestselling sports chronograph. Entirely in brushed and polished titanium, the new Chronometer is powered by the El Primero 3600 and like most sports chronographs today, available with either a matching titanium bracelet or an integrated rubber strap. Initial thoughts The Chronomaster Sport Titanium doesn’t do anything new in terms of styling – the design still remains derivative of the Rolex Daytona – but it feels good in the lightweight alloy. The watch has the large size required of a sport chronograph, but is easily wearable thanks to the lightness. As an accessible alternative to the Daytona, the Chronomaster Sport is not particularly interesting in steel, but more appealing in titanium. Granted, it retains the same design, but the titanium case and bracelet give it a tangibly different feel. Of all the Chronomaster Sport iterations, this is the most appealing, particularly since it’s the only variant dressed in low-key, monochromatic colours. The grey hue of titanium complements the palette, with the tri-colour sub-dials in shades of grey being a clever touch. The Chronomaster Sport Titanium is priced at US$11,800 on a bracelet and a bit less on a strap. It’s priced comparable to other Zenith models with the same movement, and broadly speaking a good value proposition as far as sports chronographs go, with the Daytona being about 40% more expensive...

Hands-On: The New G-Shock Square MRG-B5000R-1 Fratello
Casio introduces new G-Shock “Squares” Feb 8, 2024

Hands-On: The New G-Shock Square MRG-B5000R-1

Casio introduces new G-Shock “Squares” all the time, but a new Square in the premier league, like an MR-G, is something else. Before you get too excited, I must clarify that the MRG-B5000R-1 isn’t an entirely new watch. However, it is an important successor to the two MR-G Squares presented two years ago. In any […] Visit Hands-On: The New G-Shock Square MRG-B5000R-1 to read the full article.

Hands-On: G-Shock GA-2140RX-7A 40th Anniversary Clear Remix Edition Fratello
Audemars Piguet s most iconic model Feb 6, 2024

Hands-On: G-Shock GA-2140RX-7A 40th Anniversary Clear Remix Edition

How’s that? A G-Shock in the shape of Audemars Piguet’s most iconic model, sporting a module numbered like Patek Philippe’s most iconic watch? I can’t believe that’s a coincidence. I think Casio is joking with the watch industry on the other end of the spectrum. Of course, there is nothing wrong with that, though Casio […] Visit Hands-On: G-Shock GA-2140RX-7A 40th Anniversary Clear Remix Edition to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Haim Legacy Automatic Collection Worn & Wound
Feb 5, 2024

Hands-On: the Haim Legacy Automatic Collection

Once a small brand has gained some traction, they usually do one of two things: dig deep into a hero product, or continue to delve into their brand ethos to create new things. Haim Watch Company seems to be steadfastly in the latter category. Following initial releases like the L2 and the Descent which featured design codes that clearly linked them together, one would be forgiven for assuming they’d mine these models for all they’re worth. But instead, the Chicago-based brand is building new styles that only expand the definition of what a Haim watch can be. Their latest collection is their Legacy Automatic. Coming in three colorways, this line-up shows a break from the previous generations of Haim watches and nods at real growth towards higher-quality, and more eye-catching designs. Compare, for example, the original Legacy collection to the Legacy Automatic. While the former has a fairly inconspicuous charm to it, you can begin to see that Haim is ready to cement itself as a brand that can take risks and maintain its mission statement as a microbrand that brings a luxury feel to a relatively affordable price point.  The Legacy Automatic references boast a lot of firsts for the brand, so I’d like to start with those as a sort of headliner for the collection. For one, it’s the first time and date-only design within the Legacy line-up. Not only that, but it’s Haim’s first custom designed caliber (more on what that really means soon) and is the first watch in Ha...

Vintage Watches: The IWC 309 Brings Calatrava Looks At A Fraction Of The Price Fratello
IWC 309 Brings Calatrava Looks Jan 23, 2024

Vintage Watches: The IWC 309 Brings Calatrava Looks At A Fraction Of The Price

Today, we’ll take a look at a vintage IWC 309, a watch that attracted me due to its likeness to another watch. This classic is no copycat, though, as it brings enough unique styling flourishes to the party. We also have the chance to discuss one of the more heralded movements in history. At the […] Visit Vintage Watches: The IWC 309 Brings Calatrava Looks At A Fraction Of The Price to read the full article.

Behind The Lens: Three Black-Dialed Gold Treasures From Patek Philippe, Akrivia, And A. Lange & Söhne – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Akrivia Jan 14, 2024

Behind The Lens: Three Black-Dialed Gold Treasures From Patek Philippe, Akrivia, And A. Lange & Söhne – Reprise

When GaryG recently took a good look at the current state of his watch collection, he was surprised by the large proportion of dark-dialed pieces in the mix. He has enjoyed – and photographed – each of three of these watches a great deal, but it isn’t until recently that he pulled them together in one place for side-by-side shooting and direct comparison. The results (and the watches) are simply stunning.

Review: Hermès’ Super Hero “Super H” in Miniature Painting SJX Watches
Hermes Jan 10, 2024

Review: Hermès’ Super Hero “Super H” in Miniature Painting

Capturing the spirit of Hermès well with its whimsical yet artisanal dial, the Slim d’Hermès Minuit au Faubourg features a miniature painting depicting “Super H”, a caped superhero over the streets of Paris with the Eiffel Tower visible in the background. Because it is Hermès, the superhero is a horse and the location is 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the brand’s original store. Like many of Hermès métiers d’art creations, the dial is inspired by a scarf. Here the motif is replicated in “micro-painting”, sometimes known as “cold enamel”, a technique that employs acrylic paint, much like larger-scale artwork. Initial thoughts Despite being one of the most desirable luxury brands – its shares trade at a higher valuation than any of peers – Hermès maintains a whimsical streak that is evident in many of its creations, including last year’s Space Derby depicting jockeys racing robot horses across the stars. The prices are serious and quality, high, but some products possess a subtle humour. The Minuit au Faubourg, which translates as “midnight at Faubourg”, is exactly that. A superhero horse with a luminous “H” signal in the night sky – there are few other brands that can credibly pull off something similar. This is a testament to the careful curation of the Hermès brand. But despite the comic book theme, the dial is executed entirely by hand. Although miniature painting in acrylic doesn’t have the cachet of enamel, indeed it is typ...

Hands-On: the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35MM Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35MM Back Dec 25, 2023

Hands-On: the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35MM

Back in the 1950s when you were setting off for a distant land, a key piece of gear would be your trusty tool watch. Today, you’d reach for something like a Rolex Explorer II with its chunky steel case and bezel, bold handset and healthy application of lume. A Seiko SPB143 would make an excellent option on a tighter budget where other spendy gear takes priority. The point I’m trying to make is that the tool watch as we know it is today typically something big, chunky, robust, and borderline aggressive looking. The landscape for tool watches was completely different back in the 50s. If you were one of the American Navy’s Deep Freeze 1 task force and on your way to the South Pole back in 1955, the watch you would have been wearing is significantly different from the modern tool watch. That watch would have been the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic - a slim, art deco-inspired watch that was built tough, but not in the way you may think of it today. The Deep Freeze 1 task force’s mission was to establish a permanent base at the South Pole - one of the Earth’s most severe and ice-laden landscapes - and they needed to choose a timepiece that could withstand the conditions.  Today we’re looking at the faithful modern recreation of the Antarctic. The 35mm case stays true to the original’s dimensions while retaining the robust construction, including anti-shock and anti-magnetic properties. Let’s take a closer look and see if the new Antarctic lives up to its vintag...