27,773 articles · 2,520 videos found · page 382 of 1010
Revolution
A long-serving employee of Hermès, Hermès Horloger CEO Laurent Dordet has strove to establish the maison as a respected creator of fine watches. He has endeavored to develop watches like the H08, Arceau le Temps Voyageur and Arceau Hermès Story that are instantly recognizable from afar. At Watches and Wonders 2023, the H08 returns in […]
Revolution
Laurent Lecamp, Montblanc’s Managing Director for the Watch Division, introduces new Iced Sea watches, which are inspired by maritime expeditions and sport glacier pattern dials created using a traditional technique called gratté-boisé. Next, he showed Revolution Founder Wei Koh the new additions to the Montblanc 0 Oxygen series. Inspired by mountaineers like Nimsdai Purja and […]
Time+Tide
The Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications pays tribute to their Geneva home The Grand Feu cloisonné section of the dial depicts a steamship from the Belle Époque fleet that has been cruising Lake Geneva for over a century The calibre R 27 HU is equipped with world time and minute repeater complications Technical mastery is … ContinuedThe post Cloisonné mastery of the Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Cartier has long mined its extensive archives for inspiration, particularly for the Privé collection of historically-inspired watches. Having revived the Tank Asymetrique and Cloche, the jeweller now turns to the first-ever Tank with the Privé Tank Normale. Like past Privé models, the new Normale faithfully adheres to the historical original, but unlike other Privé models, it is offered with the option of a matching, precious-metal bracelet. Initial thoughts Like last year’s Privé Tank Chinoise, the Tank Normale is less familiar than say, the Tank Cintree, having been discontinued for some time. Although the Tank Normale was the original Tank design of 1917, it has been out of the catalogue for long enough to have some novelty. The Tank Normale stays true to the original in almost all respects. The case, for instance, is marginally larger than vintage examples but compact enough it feels like a vintage watch. Even the bevelled sapphire crystal mimics the glass on the originals. But the watch incorporates modest tweaks that set it apart as a modern watch, like the expanded railway minute track. These design updates reveal a good attention to detail in updating the watch without changing too much. Especially noteworthy is the bracelet, an option rarely offered by Cartier for its high-end men’s watches. It’s executed well in both design and build, while also being acceptably priced as such things go (although pricey in absolute terms). The OG Tank The Tank Norma...
SJX Watches
One of the strongest value propositions at Watches & Wonders is from an unsurprising contender, Tudor. Not entirely new but still compelling, the Black Bay GMT is a new version of the brand’s travel staple, now facelifted with a silver dial that brings to mind the mythical Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Initial thoughts Since its release in 2018, the Black Bay GMT has been a crowd pleaser, and the newest variant will be as well. Its tangible features like the in-house calibre are obvious, and less apparent is the subtle historical connection. While a silver dial on a sport watch isn’t novel, this is particularly notable for the unspoken reference to the historical Rolex GMT-Master with a white dial reputedly made for Pan American Airways. The fact that the GMT-Master “Pan Am” is so famous yet controversial in terms of provenance gives this Black Bay GMT an amusing and interesting historical angle. Apart from the dial, there is no difference between this and the version with a black dial that came before. The price remains unchanged, and it still offers great value for money. The only criticism that I have is the same as for the earlier version: the case is chunky at 41 mm in diameter; the case is thick as well. I’m certain a more compact Tudor GMT model will arrive one day, especially with the just-launched Black Bay 54 that is 37 mm. Opaline dial The dial on the new Black Bay GMT retains the same dial layout with “snowflake” hands, including its lozen...
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Time+Tide
The Tudor Black Bay GMT is now available with an opaline white dial. Paired with the Snowflake hand set, it makes for a refreshing look. The blue and burgundy bezel looks more vibrant in contrast. Although last year’s Watches & Wonders held thunderous announcements for Tudor’s GMT fans thanks to the Black Bay Pro and … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Black Bay GMT with a wintery white dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A Lange & Sohne came to Watches & Wonders with just a single release this year, and that’s all they needed to make a big impression. The watch is a new member of the Odysseus family, and it welcomes the brand’s first automatic chronograph. Like all of Lange chronograph movements, the new L156.1 within this watch is quite special, both mechanically and aesthetically. It should come as no surprise that the Odysseus platform accepts a chronograph compilation with ease, given the existing set of pushers that are integrated into the case, which are normally used to adjust the day and date. They still are, however their main function has been shifted to operating the chronograph. The Odysseus Chronograph retains the outsized day and date apertures at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively, as well as a running seconds hand nested at 6 o’clock. There are no other sub dials present. The timing seconds and minute hands are stacked together and centrally mounted, just like the equally fabulous Sinn EZM1. When started, the red anodized aluminum timing seconds hand kicks into action, and the second timing hand records each minute that passes, up to 60 minutes. One unique detail here worth noting is that, when reset, that seconds hand will retrace every lap it’s taken around the dial. So if you’ve timed something for 15 minutes before resetting, the seconds hand will make 15 laps in quick succession back to its starting place. These operations are routed through the integrated pusher...
Quill & Pad
Throughout 2022, there has been an economic shift globally. Thankfully, we have moved forward from the pandemic, however, we are now entering a period of higher interest rates in response to inflation. With this, consumer patterns will change and the watch industry will be affected. So Raman Kalra thought it might be interesting to look at historical watch trends and give his predictions on what shifts we will see on our wrists over the next 5-10 years.
Time+Tide
After much anticipation, Rolex releases the first production Yacht-Master in RLX titanium The 42mm case is totally brushed, save for some wide, polished lug chamfers Powered by the 3235 calibre, the Yacht-Master RLX Titanium has a power reserve of 70 hours First spotted on the wrist of Sir Ben Ainslie, Rolex has finally released the … ContinuedThe post The long-awaited Rolex Yacht-Master in RLX Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a hand-made Micro Artist Studio creation displaying the ultimate finishing of the manufacture. This unofficial sequel to the SBGZ001 is white-birch driven versus snowflake driven. Will GS collectors feel like the SBGZ009 steps on the toes of SBGZ001 owners?. If you’re just starting your journey into Grand Seiko enthusiasm, … ContinuedThe post The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a handsomely hand-engraved holy grail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
The new Grand Seiko SBGD213 is the sequel to last year’s SBGD209 The paw-like shape of the faceted case is inspired by the Grand Seiko lion mascot The case and dial are set with a combined total of 5.62 carats of diamonds and 1.25 carats of blue sapphires, all set by hand Grand Seiko is … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGD213 roars with hand-set diamonds and blue sapphires appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
It's the modern Panerai you know, with just a few tweaks to make it look like the old Panerai you want.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Watches & Wonders is taking place 3/27 - 4/2 this year and it's time to make our pre-show predictions! Tune in and check out Mike and Kaz talk through potential new releases they'd like to see from Tudor, Oris, Tag Heuer, Vacheron Constantin, and more!
SJX Watches
After several consecutive hit collaborations, Louis Erard debuts its first with a wood marquetry dial. Arguably its most ambitious release yet in terms of craftsmanship, the Excellence Marqueterie features a dial inlaid with tiny pieces of wood to form an M.C. Escher-like motif. For the dial, the brand tapped Bastien Chevalier, a Swiss artisan who specialises the art of creating designs and patterns out of intricately cut pieces of wood, although other materials like stone, silicon, straw, and even leather can be used for the technique. Initial thoughts In my view, most watchmakers tend to collaborate only as a last resort, when they’ve run out of ideas. What sets Louis Erard apart is its coherent strategy for collaborations. Whether created by industrial designer atelier oï, or a watchmaker like Vianney Halter, its collaboration editions are still recognisable as Louis Erard thanks to the use of the same steel case. And they are uniformly produced in small runs and priced below CHF4,000. The new Excellence Marqueterie continues this successful formula, bringing wood marquetry to the sub-US$10,000 category for the first time. While brands like anOrdain are doing something similar with affordably priced enamel dials that are designed for modern tastes, there’s never been a marquetry dial at this price point. Not only does the dial look good, it is impressively constructed from dozens of hand-made elements that require careful finishing. Despite the more complex dial...
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, long time reader Eric L. shares their trio of watches, which include a brand I had to Google to discover. This is a collection motivated not by hype, but by enthusiasm alone so hat’s off to Eric for this selection. Bonos points for one of the coolest G-Shocks in existence. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. Header image credit: Analog:Shift Long time listener, first time caller. NATO’s are great…always. Full Stop…no question. Keep up the good work folks. Omega Speedmaster MKII Racing – $4,000 It’s a Speedmaster, but you didn’t type in “best watch algorithm” in the Google Machine to find out which Speedy you should buy (It’s the Professional Moonwatch…it went to the moon, but Omega rarely talks about it). Plus, everyone knows that the 70’s racing scene was so funky and lit that it deserves more credit that it receives. Funky case, orange highlights, tach ring under the glass…it’s just better than the Moonwatch in all respects, and I’ll fight anyone who says otherwise. Scared of vintage watches? Get the reissue with a co-axial movement that’s COSC certified. Elliott Brown Houlton Professional – $550 Analog watches are a thing of the past you say? All soldiers, sailors, airmen, and marines need are G-Shocks and Timex Ironman watches, you say? Well my brothers and sisters in the UK’s Special Boat ...
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Worn & Wound
Henley, Oxfordshire. Pimm’s and Regattas. The splendid River and Rowing Museum. Particularly vindictive traffic wardens. And ‘The Wing’, Bremont’s HQ. There are plenty of reasons to try to wangle an invitation to look around. Nick’s dog Pedro, for a start – he’s lovely. The coffee’s good. The building itself is remarkable. Where else do you find a regularly changing selection of classic cars in a reception area? Last time I was there it was a restored Land Rover half-ton Lightweight. And, if you’re into your military watches, there’s an entire wall of them with an example of every unit, squadron or crew model the firm has made. Some you’ll have heard of, others are, quite deliberately, not exactly household names. It’s not surprising. Bremont tend to build their watches (‘build’ seems like a better word than ‘make’ in this context) to take a knock or two. I’ve had one of their MBIIs since 2011 and, despite almost G-Shock levels of abuse, it’s never missed a beat. So even though you’re more likely to see a G or an F-91W on exercise (losing a $15 Casio in the mud is easier to stomach than a nearly $4k Bremont), there’s little doubt they’d hack the pace. Now there’s a new watch for the Armed Forces Collection – the Broadsword Recon. Bremont’s Broadsword range has been around since 2019, the year the firm signed the Armed Forces Covenant to support those who serve or have served. Practically, in the case of the Broadsword, ...
Worn & Wound
When I hear the words “Doxa Sub,” it’s hard for me to not start conjuring images in the ol’ noggin of that wide cushion, pebble-like steel case, the orange accented no-deco table splitting bezel duty with an elapsed time display, and the ever-so whimsical dial. The Sub 300 is a damn near perfect watch, in my humble opinion. But lately (over the course of two years), Doxa has given their flagship dive watch some company within their catalog by way of a couple releases that, at glance, might not resemble the Doxa you and I are used to. The brand with a storied history in the sport of diving and oceanic exploration has been doing some exploring of their own, but into different case design waters. I’m referring to their contemporary divers that use more of a conventional round case shape like the Sub 200 and the Sub 200 C-Graph. Recently, Doxa released the second coming of their Sub 200 chronograph with the Sub 200 C-Graph II. There are notable differences with the newcomer that include several models within the collection now sporting a steel bezel (as a traditional Doxa should have), a new dial finish, and smaller case proportions that amount to a more wearable, everyday diver. When the Doxa Sub 200 C-Graph was introduced in 2020, it reintroduced a chronograph into their expansive regular production diver collection. It was (and still is) a three-register chronograph that attempted to keep some of the vintage charm with its faux-patina markers. In terms of its case...
SJX Watches
The long anticipated revival of Urwerk’s first model has finally arrived: the UR-102 “Reloaded” is modelled on the watch Urwerk presented at its debut Basel fair in 1997. The new UR-102 preserves the pebble-like form of the original but with enough tweaks to make it different, most notably with a larger case and revamped time display. The model makes it debut as a box set containing two UR-102s, one in titanium and the other all black. Initial thoughts I was looking forward to Urwerk’s revival of the UR-102. And I’m not disappointed with the result – except for the fact that it’s sold only as a pair. The “Reloaded” version is obviously modelled on the 1997 original, but it’s also clearly a different creation. For one, it’s larger and the time display has been redesigned. Add to that the restyled lugs and repositioned crown and you have a watch that’s very much distinct. In short, the new UR-102 is not a remake but a successful and appealing reinterpretation of the original. Leaving aside its origins, the UR-102 also has intrinsic appeal. It’s a clean, attractive design with sci-fi vibes. But the UR-102 is being sold as a pair – both identical save for the case finish – but subsequent versions will be sold individually, making them more accessible. Coming full circle At 41 mm the UR-102 “Reloaded” is noticeably larger than the 1997 original that was just 38 mm wide. The enlarged case retains the same streamlined outline that was inspired b...
Time+Tide
The MB&F; LM Perpetual Steel is their second ever creation to have a salmon dial Stainless steel is very rarely used by MB&F; for cases, upping the rarity factor even more Not a limited edition, but it will be limited in production each year When you look at higher end brands like Patek Philippe, typically … ContinuedThe post The new MB&F; LM Perpetual has a salmon dial in a steel case – super rare for the brand yet not a limited edition! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Get to know the great-wearing watch that inspired me to look up a panda fact or two.
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![[Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/03/BellRoss_BR05_Golden_7.webp)
Worn & Wound
We’re not yet at the stage that the BR05 is seen as THE Bell & Ross-there’s still a long way to go before it could dethrone the classic square silhouette of the BR01 and BR03 models-but it feels like it has grown up enough to be seen as not just another brand jumping on the integrated bracelet sport watch bandwagon. It’s not even four years since the first of the BR05 variants were unveiled, and during that time we have seen three-handers, chronographs and GMTs. Stainless steel watches have seen bead-blasting and ‘Artline’ finishing. There have been rose gold and two-tone cases. Dials have come in black, white, copper, green, and blue. And lets not forget the Kenissi powered BR-X5 which has also evolved from the same case. As I browse the BR05 catalogue, both past and present, I’m struck by two thoughts. Firstly, there have been a LOT of different watches in this line. It’s not surprising that a brand should choose to repeat and rework a flagship model, but even allowing for quite a number of limited editions, that’s still a lot of releases since the original 2019 debut. This leads to my second thought. Despite always being impressed with the overall aesthetic, case design and finishing, why haven’t I found one that I really like? Finding my own answer to that has required me to attempt to classify what type of watch the BR05 actually is. $6600 [Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden Case Stainless Stee Movement BR-CAL.322 (Base SW300-1) Dia...
Worn & Wound
You know what’s satisfying? When a watch brand does the thing that just about everyone wants them to do, after a period of time where it seemed like they definitely were not going to do that very thing. Listening to customers and delivering what they want is a hallmark of the microbrand scene, and, at least to some extent, independent watchmaking as a whole. But it needs to be balanced – you can’t just turn out every request that comes in, lest a brand lose their identity in the process. So what H. Moser has done here with a pair of new watches in the Pioneer collection feels quite special, like they’ve heard the voice of the community and reacted in a particularly Moser way. When I reviewed the Moser Pioneer “Mega Cool” I commented that the immediate impression of the case, in terms of its size, was not a positive one. The 43mm Pioneer case in stainless steel is heavy and kind of clunky, with proportions that seem designed to make it recognizable from across a room rather than contour to the wrist. In principle, I don’t have a problem with that approach – there’s nothing wrong with a watch being brash and bold just for the sake of it. But even as I gradually got used to the size of the Pioneer during my time with it, the case’s oversized aesthetic was just never to my taste. Kind of a shame, because I absolutely love the dial, and the idea of an elevated, luxury sports watch in this style holds a lot of appeal for me. This week, Moser has gone a lo...
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders is fast approaching, and that means one thing: we’re running out of time to make predictions. It seems like everyone has some ideas about what we might see later this month in Geneva from Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, and others, and that certainly includes the Worn & Wound editorial team. The key difference, as podcast listeners are well aware, is that we have a demonstrated history of being completely, 100%, wrong. Here now are our wildest thoughts on what we might see at Watches & Wonders in just a few short weeks. These might seem a little crazy, but would you really have thought Rolex might release a lefty GMT at this time last year? We didn’t think so. Zach Weiss I’m really not good at making predictions for Watch & Wonders or other release events, and this year, half of the brands have already unveiled at least something coming up already (we keep embargos, so don’t even ask). That said, last year I did jokingly say in the office that if Tudor came out with a BlackBay 58 with a GMT and a steel bezel, I’d buy it, assuming the notion was too absurd. Sadly, that’s not in writing, so you’ll have to take my word for it, but I did follow through with the BBPro purchase. Anyway, I’m not making any such promises this year. Last year was one of big releases as it was the first true-Swiss tradeshow post-Covid lockdown. This year, I don’t think we’re going to see such exciting launches in general. So, prediction one is just a more ordi...
Time+Tide
Panerai recently celebrated the opening of their first Australian stand-alone boutique with an event at the new store in Sydney’s King Street peppered with all the Italian flair and charisma their clients have come to expect from the brand. While the availability of Panerai in Australia is not new and may not seem like big … ContinuedThe post Panerai celebrate the opening of their first stand-alone boutique in Australia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The 90s Sporty Collection from G-Shock is a line of watches that pay homage to the iconic designs and colorways of the 1990s. This collection is a throwback to the era of neon colors, oversized clothing, and popular sports like basketball and skateboarding. The coloring of these models is the same as the popular coloring of the G-SHOCK DW001, which went on sale in 1994. The three base models of this lineup are the standard DW5600, the front button DW6900Y, and the Analog-Digital GA110Y. These cool designs provide a choice of variations that accentuate any style or fashion. The 90s Sporty Collection from G-Shock is a line of watches that pay homage to the iconic designs and colorways of the 1990s. This collection is a throwback to the era of neon colors, oversized clothing, and popular sports like basketball and skateboarding. The coloring of these models is the same as the popular coloring of the G-SHOCK DW001, which went on sale in 1994. The three base models of this lineup are the standard DW5600, the front button DW6900Y, and the Analog-Digital GA110Y. These cool designs provide a choice of variations that accentuate any style or fashion. The post The 90’s Are Back! – Check Out These New G-Shocks In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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