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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Should you buy a low-end mechanical or a high-end quartz? Time+Tide
Sep 27, 2022

Should you buy a low-end mechanical or a high-end quartz?

Watch shopping on a budget can be extremely frustrating, not least because of watch media outlets like ours that routinely describe watches costing well over $1,000 as “affordable” or “attainable”. The truth is that affordability is all relative, and the lower your budget, the more decisions there are to make. Competition has never been tougher … ContinuedThe post Should you buy a low-end mechanical or a high-end quartz? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Going wild with Norqain and reimagining a ’60s classic with Rado… Time+Tide
Norqain Sep 23, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Going wild with Norqain and reimagining a ’60s classic with Rado…

This week, both Luke and I made the journey to Switzerland to get hands-on with some exciting, new releases. With a case shaped like a flying saucer, the Rado DiaStar Original always wore its 1960s heritage very conspicuously indeed. Made from tungsten carbide, the DiaStar ushered in a new era of material experimentation in the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Going wild with Norqain and reimagining a ’60s classic with Rado… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In City on a Hill, Jackie Rohr understands the sleazy magnificence of a two-tone Rolex Time+Tide
Rolex Am I supposed Sep 18, 2022

In City on a Hill, Jackie Rohr understands the sleazy magnificence of a two-tone Rolex

“Am I supposed to hate Jackie Rohr, because I f*cking love him!” That post on Reddit sums up the general feeling for everyone’s favourite anti-hero in City on a Hill. If you haven’t watched it yet, don’t miss out. Set in the 1990s, this gritty drama hits like The Wire with a Boston accent, unfolding … ContinuedThe post In City on a Hill, Jackie Rohr understands the sleazy magnificence of a two-tone Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #22 “Mechanical Movement Parts” Time+Tide
Sep 17, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #22 “Mechanical Movement Parts”

After weeks of enjoying Zach’s crosswords, I figured what the heck. Time to hijack it like I sometimes do the Friday Wind Down. So today, I’m going to test you all on the most important part of your mechanical watch. And that is its mechanical movement. Let’s see what you got! The post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #22 “Mechanical Movement Parts” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Orator Sportsman Diver is the resurrection of a forgotten ’60s gem Time+Tide
Blancpain Sep 12, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Orator Sportsman Diver is the resurrection of a forgotten ’60s gem

With a name like Orator, you would expect this brand to have a good story behind it. Thankfully it delivers, as one of watchmaking’s forgotten brands that used to share the same limelight as Rolex and Blancpain. Although it’s likely you’ve never heard of the Orator Sportsman, the brand has been resurrected with the goal … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Orator Sportsman Diver is the resurrection of a forgotten ’60s gem appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Ulysse Nardin expand their spectrum with new Rainbow releases Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin expand their spectrum Sep 1, 2022

GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Ulysse Nardin expand their spectrum with new Rainbow releases

At Geneva Watch Days, Ulysse Nardin is making a multicoloured splash with the introduction of two sporty new models to their Blast and Diver lines. Ulysse Nardin has long been known for their bold, can’t-take-your-eyes-off-them designs (like the avant-garde Freak series), and these new variants are inspired by the iridescent, rainbow-hued appearance of the silicium … ContinuedThe post GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Ulysse Nardin expand their spectrum with new Rainbow releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Czapek unveils reworked SXH1 calibre in two new Quai des Bergues watches Time+Tide
Czapek unveils reworked SXH1 calibre Aug 30, 2022

HANDS-ON: Czapek unveils reworked SXH1 calibre in two new Quai des Bergues watches

While conglomerate brands from groups like Swatch and LVMH have a large presence, arguably the sector of watchmaking that is drawing the most interest from collectors these days are the independents. Therefore, these brands really have to standout with their products, and they typically do so with novelties that embody the best of horological craftsmanship. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Czapek unveils reworked SXH1 calibre in two new Quai des Bergues watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200? Time+Tide
Seiko become worth $1200? Resale Aug 28, 2022

How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200?

Resale value is a can of worms like no other, turning the discussion of wristwatches from a matter of taste into an investments debate. On one end of the spectrum are people who are happy to buy watches at their retail price, because they’ve got no plans to sell them as soon as they’re paid … ContinuedThe post How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Looking back at how Hublot came back with a bang at Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Hublot came back Aug 28, 2022

Looking back at how Hublot came back with a bang at Watches & Wonders

Editor’s Note: We’re not going to pretend that Hublot is for everyone – their designs are far too bold and ambitious for that. But any watch lover will always get a kick out of the brand’s new releases which – whether they involve material innovation or unexpected collabs – always demand horological attention. Here’s another look … ContinuedThe post Looking back at how Hublot came back with a bang at Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Facelifts the Classique Calendrier 7337 SJX Watches
Breguet Facelifts Aug 26, 2022

Breguet Facelifts the Classique Calendrier 7337

One of the longest-lived models in Breguet’s line-up, the Classique Calendrier 7337 has been in the catalogue since the 1980s before being revamped in 2009 to give the model its current proportions. Now Breguet has given the 7337 a gentle cosmetic makeover with a redesigned dial. Despite changing none of the fundamentals, the new dial gives the 7337 a distinctly different look that is amongst the most modern in the brand’s Classique collection. Initial thoughts The new 7337 modernises a longstanding model in Breguet’s lineup, one that was originally inspired by pocket watches the brand made in the 19th century. The redesign certainly succeeds in giving the 7337 a more contemporary flavour, so anyone who finds the original design overly old fashioned will appreciate the facelift. However, the new look loses some of the classical elegance that defines Breguet in my opinion. And it also loses the quirky elegance that was characteristic of the original dial layout. Design aside, the new 7337 is very much identical to the earlier model in terms of movement and construction, which means the quality is excellent, as is typical of Breguet. Considering the quality of build, materials – the guilloche dial for instance is solid gold – and the historically-significant brand name, the new 7337 is a reasonably priced proposition at US$43,000, which is identical to the earlier version and unchanged for several years. Breguet pocket watch no. 3833, c. 1823 Symmetrical, mostly De...

The Baume & Mercier Hampton embodies Art Deco sophistication Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Aug 25, 2022

The Baume & Mercier Hampton embodies Art Deco sophistication

Often you’ll hear of a watch that stands out from the crowd, does something novel or makes a splash in its category. The Baume & Mercier Hampton takes a different approach, however. By virtue of its Art Deco-inspired, architectural cases, they look to be the perfect everyday watch, without evoking excess excitement or attention. Backed … ContinuedThe post The Baume & Mercier Hampton embodies Art Deco sophistication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Code41 Introduces the Mecascape Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Richard Mille Aug 24, 2022

Code41 Introduces the Mecascape Pocket Watch

A startup that relies solely on crowdfunding for its timepieces, Code41 has launched a variety of wristwatches since its founding in 2016. All of its products to date have been wristwatches with a stylised, mechanical appearance. Now Code41 is launching its first pocket watch, the Mecascape. Essentially a portable clock that doubles up as a desk clock, the Mecascape is powered by a manually-wound movement with an eight-day power reserve. Like the brand’s other timepieces, the Mecascape has a modern, open-worked aesthetic, but applied to a regulator-style display with each of the indications in separate sub-dials. Initial thoughts More of a portable panel clock than a pocket watch, the Mecascape is an interesting product that doesn’t quite fit into any category of timepiece. The best way to describe it would be as an interesting mechanical object that watch enthusiasts might appreciate. Though slim, it is quite large at about 10 cm long, which is about a third shorter than an iPhone. The size means its practicality as a portable timepiece is limited. It would seem more useful as a small desk clock. Visually it has the modern, open-worked aesthetic found on watches from the likes of Richard Mille and Hublot. The style works well with the concept of the Mecascape. And thanks to its scale the mechanics are more easily observed than on a wristwatch. At just over US$9,300, the Mecascape seems fairly priced on initial examination, largely thanks to its unconventional form and...

Game recognises (wrist) game: The NFL’s elite quarterbacks and their watch collections Time+Tide
Aug 21, 2022

Game recognises (wrist) game: The NFL’s elite quarterbacks and their watch collections

With autumn just around the corner, it’s time for America’s favourite sport to start ramping up again. The NFL preseason is already under way, and along with the excitement of the game on the field, we at Time + Tide are looking forward to the new season’s wrist game from the league’s top quarterbacks. Football’s … ContinuedThe post Game recognises (wrist) game: The NFL’s elite quarterbacks and their watch collections appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The IWC Portugeiser Automatic and Chronograph in white and blue Time+Tide
IWC Portugeiser Automatic Aug 19, 2022

INTRODUCING: The IWC Portugeiser Automatic and Chronograph in white and blue

Without any unnecessary fluff or circumstance, the two latest additions to the IWC Portugeiser range are simply gorgeous and elegant designs with a focus on contrast. While the last few years have shown an exciting trend towards more colourful and expressive watches, it can sometimes feel like there isn’t much available for those who prefer … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Portugeiser Automatic and Chronograph in white and blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero SJX Watches
Aug 18, 2022

Up Close: Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero

Short for “Franc Vila Founder”, FVF is a tale of redemption. Founded by the namesake designer, FVF is the second act of the Spanish watch designer, one he embarked on after his first went off the rails as many independent watch brands tend to do. FVF’s inaugural watch is the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. It’s an original look and at a glance there’s nothing linking it to the creations of the original Franc Vila brand – a good thing in my estimation. But look closely and hints of the earlier designs emerge. Most importantly the FVF1 reveals itself as an impressively executed watch – the movement has an interesting construction, excellent finishing, and an original aesthetic. Mr Vila has made his comeback in style. NB: The watch pictured is a prototype that’s been worn so it shows wear. The FVF1 has a flying tourbillon, roller day indicator, day and night display, and a 100-hour power reserve Rising from the ashes Born in Valencia but now a longtime resident of Switzerland, Mr Vila founded his namesake brand in 2005 and rode the wave that buoyed modern, flamboyant independent watchmaking for the next decade or so. Propelled by Mr Vila’s convivial personality, Franc Vila became one of the hot brands of the era. During those heady days, it could sell several dozen tourbillons and minute repeaters a year, making it one of the top clients of now-defunct complications specialist BNB Concept. A classic from the original Franc Vila brand, the Tourbillon Planèta...

Panerai Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Panerai Aug 17, 2022

Panerai Watches Guide

Tracing its roots to the 19th Century but bursting on the cultural scene on the cusp of the 21st, Panerai is an overnight success more than 100 years in the making. From humble and very utilitarian beginnings as a maker of tools and instruments for military divers in the 1930s, the Florentine watchmaker has become a powerhouse in the luxury sector, its unapologetically militaristic and indisputably masculine designs blurring the lines between tool watch and luxury item like few brands before or since. Here is the story of Officine Panerai and an overview of the modern Panerai watch collections. Guido Panerai and the First Radiomir Giovanni Panerai opened his watchmaking shop on Ponte Alle Grazie in Florence in 1860, and with the help of his son Leon Franceso built it into the ancestral Italian city’s first retailer of Swiss watches as well as its first watchmaking school. When Giovanni’s grandson Guido took over the business, near the turn of the century - and acquired his wife’s family business, which made tools and hardware for military use, including combat sights, compasses and depth gauges - it had become essentially two companies: Orologerie Svizzera, the shop that sold prestigious Swiss watch brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Rolex; and Guido Panerai & Figlio, primarily a supplier of precision instruments and diving equipment to the Royal Italian Navy, or Regia Marina.  As a military provider, Panerai recognized the need early on f...

Zenith Defy Skyline joins Chronomaster Sport as a “waiting list” model Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet these super-hot brands all Aug 2, 2022

Zenith Defy Skyline joins Chronomaster Sport as a “waiting list” model

It is kind of a shame that a barometer for the success of a watch reference is when it is not readily available to purchase at retail. In an era of “unobtanium” Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, these super-hot brands all have standard-production watches selling at a premium due to their lack of availability. … ContinuedThe post Zenith Defy Skyline joins Chronomaster Sport as a “waiting list” model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.