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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

WATCHES & WONDERS – It’s a whitewash! The DOXA Whitepearl expands into multiple forms Time+Tide
Doxa Whitepearl expands into multiple Mar 31, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS – It’s a whitewash! The DOXA Whitepearl expands into multiple forms

Following the resounding success of the entry-level SUB 200 Whitepearl colourway, DOXA applies a lick of fresh white paint across its model range. Spanning five different models, the white colour departs from the usual neon we’ve grown accustomed to from DOXA, for a more classic, yet ever-legible, look. SUB 300 Carbon COSC Whitepearl A 42.5mm … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS – It’s a whitewash! The DOXA Whitepearl expands into multiple forms appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269

Continuing its evolution from military watchmaker to one with a broader and civilian repertoire, Panerai introduces the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269. A variant of the minimalist Luminor perpetual calendar first unveiled last year, the PAM1269 has a dial made of tinted sapphire that reveals the concentric calendar discs underneath. And like many recent Panerai limited editions, the PAM 1269 is accompanied by an “experience”, in this case a trip to Florence (plus an NFT). The reverse of the watch includes the year and month displays, along with the power reserve indicator Initial thoughts If I were to just skim through the new watch releases of the year, I would have missed this Panerai because at a distance, it looks like any other Panerai. But it is more than that. Apart from being just a smartly conceived perpetual calendar, the watch includes an all-expenses-paid trip to Florence curated by Panerai. Given Panerai’s historical connections to Florence and its status as a leading luxury watchmaker, I imagine the trip would be filled with experiences impossible to obtain otherwise. The dial is open-worked yet highly legible Putting the trip aside, the watch itself is a marvel of clarity – a lot of information is displayed on the front and back in a manner as minimal as possible. The comprehensive display includes a second time zone and four-digit year indicator. Notably, the indicators on the front are also linear – everything is contained on a h...

Cartier Introduces the Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Cartier Introduces the Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise

After having reimagined signature models like the Tank Cintree and Tank Asymetrique, Cartier now turns it attention to something less well known. The Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise arrives just in time for the 100th anniversary of the original Tank Chinoise, which was inspired by traditional Chinese architecture. Unlike past Cartier Privé models that adhered closely to earlier versions of the model, the new watch takes more liberty in reimagining the Tank Chinoise, which was last available in 2004 as part of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP). A 1930 Tank Chinoise of the type that inspired the 2004 CPCP version Initial thoughts For fans of the 2004 Tank Chinoise, which was very square yet made up of rounded edges and lines, the new model will be jarringly different with its angular form. Yet for anyone who appreciates a traditional Tank, the new Chinoise is more like a Tank than any past version of the design. I like the redesigned case. Where I would have wished for something different is the dial, which repeats the same elements found in past Cartier Privé models; a bolder dial would have gone better with the restyled case. However, Cartier certainly went all out with the skeleton version, which is striking and original. It comes close to being too much with its Chinese-inspired motifs, but not quite, so it still looks and feels tasteful. Allongée The new Tank Chinoise is akin to a Tank Allongée – it’s an elongated version of the earlier CPCP Tank Chinois...

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series makes a welcome return with the stealth of a ninja Time+Tide
Seiko Black Series makes Mar 23, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series makes a welcome return with the stealth of a ninja

It should come as no surprise that a second round of additions to Seiko’s Black Series have arrived, given the instant success of the first few watches. The series perfectly pulls off that stealthy, tactical look without sacrificing legibility or needing third-party modifications, and the four new watches are each full of character that will … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series makes a welcome return with the stealth of a ninja appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième is a fitting birthday celebration of a truly classic watch Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième Mar 17, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième is a fitting birthday celebration of a truly classic watch

It’s not often that a 90th anniversary is celebrated with as much grandeur as say a 50th for example, but Jaeger-LeCoultre like to celebrate a little bit differently. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième marks 90 years since the introduction of their incredible rectangular flipping watch that has remained relevant throughout every trend and fashion of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième is a fitting birthday celebration of a truly classic watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Formula 1 Season Preview – The cars, the watches, the sponsors (Part Two) Time+Tide
Mar 17, 2022

Formula 1 Season Preview – The cars, the watches, the sponsors (Part Two)

There are unlimited ways for Formula 1 to be a ruthless sport, for teams, drivers and fans alike. While fame and glory might seem like the biggest motivator for the drivers, money is always the biggest carrot for the teams. A single point can make the difference between tens of millions of dollars in prize … ContinuedThe post Formula 1 Season Preview – The cars, the watches, the sponsors (Part Two) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Spending time with Jean Rousseau and brunch with Norqain Time+Tide
Norqain I have been saying Mar 11, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Spending time with Jean Rousseau and brunch with Norqain

I have been saying for a while that I needed to look into Jean Rousseau straps for my own watches, so when the NYC Watch Crew enthusiast and collector group pinged me, letting me know the next meet up would be at the Jean Rousseau boutique, I was immediately excited. Jean Rousseau are known for fabricating … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Spending time with Jean Rousseau and brunch with Norqain appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: 5 things that separate fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tags) Time+Tide
Mar 6, 2022

EDITOR’S PICK: 5 things that separate fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tags)

Editor’s note: They’re the questions we all ask ourselves when contemplating a new mechanical watch: is it worth it? Is that price-tag truly justified?  Here’s Justin’s excellent piece offers some pointers on what to look for and what separates fine from very fine watchmaking. It’s a question many of us in the industry get on a … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 5 things that separate fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tags) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Héron Gladiateur delivers tough, Spartan looks elevated by a cracker of a bezel Time+Tide
Feb 28, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Héron Gladiateur delivers tough, Spartan looks elevated by a cracker of a bezel

How on earth can anyone be expected to choose their next watch these days? It almost seems like there are hundreds of new Kickstarter microbrands popping up each month, each with their own unique quirks that make them seem irresistible to people wanting to fill niches in a collection. Héron Watches are a refreshing change-up, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Héron Gladiateur delivers tough, Spartan looks elevated by a cracker of a bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolf Lang Combines Lalique Crystal and a Hand-Made Tourbillon in a Table Clock SJX Watches
Feb 27, 2022

Rolf Lang Combines Lalique Crystal and a Hand-Made Tourbillon in a Table Clock

German independent watchmaker Rolf Lang produces both wristwatches and clocks – including a lavish gold egg containing a marine chronometer – and he now turns to French glassmaker Lalique for his latest sculptural clock. Their collaboration resulted in the Phoenix Clock that is entirely hand engraved and equipped with a gigantic tourbillon – held aloft by a glass-crystal sculpture of a soaring eagle with wings spread. Rolf Lang Initial thoughts Like the ultra-luxe egg clock of 2018, the Phoenix is appealing for its strong design and craftsmanship. The father of independent watchmaker Marco Lang, Rolf Lang’s house style is highly decorative and rooted in 19th century watchmaking so the aesthetic means the clock is not for everyone, but it is certainly impressive for those who appreciate what it is. With its ornate decoration, the Phoenix evokes the elaborate clocks and watches made for the Chinese market in the 19th century. It has an old-fashioned style and quality that stands in contrast with most contemporary watchmaking. And the clock excels at what it does, which is to impress while sitting on a desk. Still, it manages to be different and slightly modern as a result of the to the clever use of high-contrast materials. The crystal sculpture is splendid, and the clock itself is even more attractive with the ultra-large tourbillon sitting in full view under a glass sphere. While it has a big price tag, the Phoenix is special; there are nothing quite like it ...

For The Sake Of Sake: A Primer With Tasting Notes – Reprise Quill & Pad
Feb 26, 2022

For The Sake Of Sake: A Primer With Tasting Notes – Reprise

Basically, sake comprises rice, water, and the fermenting agent called koji, resulting in an alcoholic level that usually sits between 13 and 16 percent. And you might be interested to know that the rice used is different from the standard table rice so popular with Japanese food. Ken Gargett takes a deep dive into what sake is, what types of sake are available, and whether you should drink it warm (like James Bond) or cold. Kampai!

OPINION: Why you should experiment more with aftermarket bracelets Time+Tide
Tudor indicates it’s Feb 24, 2022

OPINION: Why you should experiment more with aftermarket bracelets

I’m at the beach in Sydney and the sun is beating down. I hop across painfully hot sand – yelping – to plunge into the ocean. I check the time. My Tudor indicates it’s a little past one. Just for fun I pull on the underside of the watch bracelet, it stretches out like freshly … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Why you should experiment more with aftermarket bracelets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion Elements in Mineral Stone SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Feb 24, 2022

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion Elements in Mineral Stone

A Singapore watch retailer with a presence across Southeast Asia, Australasia, and even Japan, The Hour Glass frequently collaborated with the brands it represents on regional exclusives. The latest is the Classic Fusion 42 mm Elements, a variation on the watchmaker’s long-running, minimalist wristwatch but dressed up with striking mineral stone dials, ranging from tiger’s eye to turquoise, set against a titanium-and-gold case. Tiger’s eye Initial thoughts Like past editions created by The Hour Glass, the Classic Fusion Elements is different but attractive, accomplishing the most obvious purpose of a collaboration edition. Even though the Classic Fusion has been iterated endlessly, the Elements still manages to stand out. That’s thanks to several simple but smart details that demonstrate a good eye for design. The dial, for example, does away with hours markers and the date so the mineral stone can be revealed in all its natural glory. The unencumbered dial is not only appealing for its striking simplicity, but it will also speak to fans of the brands as it resembles the original Hublot design of 1980. Even though the dial is the star, the two-tone case plays an important role in the overall look. The gold accents make the case immediately more striking than its monochromatic counterparts, but the restrained use of gold means the result is stylish and avoids old-fashioned look that often comes with the two-tone combination. That said, the dial colours do call to...

Tim Mosso Of Watchbox And Elizabeth Doerr Discuss Watch Journalism In The Digital Age And Other Hot Topics (Video) Quill & Pad
Feb 19, 2022

Tim Mosso Of Watchbox And Elizabeth Doerr Discuss Watch Journalism In The Digital Age And Other Hot Topics (Video)

If you are interested in a look behind the curtain of how watch journalism is conducted in both the digital and Coronavirus ages, then this video is for you. Join Tim Mosso, media director of Watchbox, and Elizabeth Doerr as they discuss watch journalism in the digital age and other hot topics and current events. Getting right to the heart of every matter, this fast-paced conversation ranges from shutdowns, conflicts of interest, and whether print is dead to "celebrity collectors" on Instagram and the current status of independent watch brands.

The Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #1 Complications Time+Tide
Feb 19, 2022

The Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #1 Complications

One Sunday morning, I was sitting on the couch having a New York Times mini-crossword race with my brother. It was a pretty close battle, luck of the prompts really, where he got caught up on one of the clues allowing me to come from behind and complete it before him. But in the silent … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #1 Complications appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Tutorial” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Feb 15, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Tutorial”

Already “fool-proof” as complicated watches go, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar has just been given a stylish facelift, resulting in a pair of watches bearing the signature smoked blue dial. The first of the two is the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue that is almost identical to its predecessor but even more minimalist with a barely-there logo in transparent lacquer. But the headline model is surely the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, which has a whimsical user guide on the dial. The Tutorial (left) and the Funky Blue Initial thoughts I like the Tutorial because it has an ingenious movement and a sense of humour. Though the dial is the only element that’s different with the Tutorial, it is certainly an improved watch than its predecessor, simply because it perfectly encapsulates the quirkiness that defines H. Moser & Cie. The dial is so obvious that the watch really does stand out – it is certainly s a conversation piece. But it is the juxtaposition of the tongue-in-cheek schematics on the dial and the serious mechanics underneath gives the watch an amusing, original character. Perhaps only the Schaffhausen-based watchmaker that can pull this off without looking silly, given its technical competence and humorous spirit. That said, the “cheat sheet” dial is entirely practical, as it helps with both adjusting and reading the calendar – somewhat ironically since the Moser perpetual calendar mechanism is one of the most fuss free on the ma...