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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

History Of Ferrari Watches: Hublot, A High-Speed Partnership Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Dec 16, 2021

History Of Ferrari Watches: Hublot, A High-Speed Partnership

Ferrari had already teamed up with quite a few different watch brands to feature the Prancing Horse logo on the wrist: Cartier, Girard-Perregaux, and Panerai are forces to be reckoned with, yet it was Hublot who enjoyed the greatest success in partnering with the famed car brand from Maranello. And Martin Green thinks that this might be the most successful car/watch partnership that the industry has seen so far. What do you think?

Giving your dress watch a dressing down – four winning options for casual wear Time+Tide
Dec 12, 2021

Giving your dress watch a dressing down – four winning options for casual wear

I’m a big fan of dress watches. Much to my chagrin, they often come with the stigma that they can only be worn in certain situations. I stand firmly in the camp that dress watches can be enjoyed casually. Below are my picks for dress watches that look just as good dressed down as they … ContinuedThe post Giving your dress watch a dressing down – four winning options for casual wear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kevin Pietersen creates his ultimate Test cricketer in the spirit of Hublot’s art of fusion Time+Tide
Hublot s art Dec 7, 2021

Kevin Pietersen creates his ultimate Test cricketer in the spirit of Hublot’s art of fusion

To the uninitiated, Test cricket can seem like a mystifying business. As sporting occasions go, it’s often a slow-motion spectacle in which a single game can drag on for up to five days, then peter out in a lacklustre draw. In a time of ever-decreasing attention spans, watching 22 men in white chasing a small … ContinuedThe post Kevin Pietersen creates his ultimate Test cricketer in the spirit of Hublot’s art of fusion appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Well blows me down, it’s the Vario ИAVI x POPEYE Nautical Watches Time+Tide
Dec 6, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Well blows me down, it’s the Vario ИAVI x POPEYE Nautical Watches

There are certain mechanisms that bring a sense of child-like wonder to the eyes of a watch collector. There is the twisting and turning of a tourbillon. The snap back of a retrograde. And today I present you with a brand making use of a third, with a bit of fun thrown in for good … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Well blows me down, it’s the Vario ИAVI x POPEYE Nautical Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega raises pricing for Seamaster 300M divers Time+Tide
Omega raises pricing Dec 3, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega raises pricing for Seamaster 300M divers

This week, many members of the watch community noted that, once again, Omega has incrementally raised the pricing on one of their bestselling models, the Omega Seamaster 300M. While some wondered if this was a move to capitalise on the lack of availability of competing divers like the Rolex Submariner, the truth is likely far … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega raises pricing for Seamaster 300M divers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Sharp Edge GMT SPB273J1 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Nov 27, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Sharp Edge GMT SPB273J1

The Seiko Sharp Edge GMT has been a sleeper hit of late, further blurring the lines between Seiko and Grand Seiko. Existing in the upper echelons of Seiko’s catalogue, they’ve managed to make a watch that costs over $2000AUD seem like an absolute bargain. The SPB273J1 is a particularly enticing reference that will undoubtedly have … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Sharp Edge GMT SPB273J1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The CODE41 NB24 Edition 2 Chronograph offers complex Swiss watchmaking at an accessible price Time+Tide
Nov 26, 2021

The CODE41 NB24 Edition 2 Chronograph offers complex Swiss watchmaking at an accessible price

If you’ve always found yourself attracted to the highly technical mechanical movements produced by the upper echelons of Swiss horology, but have been put off by the sometimes staggering cost of entry, CODE41 would like to talk to you. The focus of the conversation would be the CODE41 NB24 Edition 2 Chronograph, further pushing the … ContinuedThe post The CODE41 NB24 Edition 2 Chronograph offers complex Swiss watchmaking at an accessible price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Nov 25, 2021

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828”

Just debuted at Dubai Watch Week, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is different from the usual Moser watches. A limited edition with a bronze case, the Since 1828 is styled like an aviator’s watch, with a design that draws heavily on early 20th century wristwatches. The dial is naturally smoked, as most Moser dials are, but in a subtle manner. And in a nod to its own history, the dial bears the H. Moser & Cie. logo in Cyrillic, which before the Russian Revolution was found on most of the brand’s timepieces. Initial thoughts Moser is today best known for its fume dials and Streamliner sports watch, with the Heritage line being a lesser known part of its line up. Still, the Heritage watches offer the usual Moser quality – of both innovation and finishing – in a different package. Admittedly, a bronze pilot’s watch isn’t exactly novel, but it’s atypical for Moser. And it is executed well, with a retro design that features smart details like the wire-like lugs, flat crown, and applied numerals. But perhaps the best feature is the Cyrillic logo on the dial, which is a minor detail but manages to give the watch a different look. And it is historically appropriate, given that the Russian Empire was once the key destination for Moser’s watches. And with a price of about US$18,000, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is a fair deal for a watch with a solid, attractive in-house movement along with a dial and case featuring good details. Atypically Moser The H...

Ulysse Nardin Diver Lemon Shark Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Ulysse Nardin Diver Lemon Shark Hands-on Nov 24, 2021

Ulysse Nardin Diver Lemon Shark Hands-on Review

What we love:: Bringing recognition to an endangered species Black and lemon coloured diver is beautifully executed (Case-back showcasing lemon-sharks, needs to be seen to appreciate it)R-strap made entirely from recycled fishing nets What we don’t love: Price, some may find this to be expensive for what’s on offerAs much as we love the nylon strap, after few wears it tends to look old Bezel layout prone to catching dust  Over All Rating: 7.1/10 Value for money – 6.5/10Wearability – 7/10Design – 7.5/10Build Quality – 7.5/10 The Ulysse Nardin Lemon Shark Diver was unveiled as a beautiful shark-themed limited edition timepiece honouring and celebrating World Ocean Day. It also honours the well-known shark experts, divers, universities, and non-profit organisations that have given up their time to clean up and make our oceans better. On June 8th, 2021, Ulysse Nardin pledged their environmental commitment which follows the United Nations guidelines and its 17 sustainable development goals. The Swiss watch manufacturer has pled to meet these guidelines by the year 2030. The brand states that “Our aim is to reduce marine pollution by integrating materials culled from the ocean whenever possible into our new products. While we recycle discarded fishing nets into watch bands, we are also acquiring greater oceanographic knowledge with our focus being mainly on sharks.” Ulysse Nardin is devoted to shark conservation around the world, so it is only right that a wat...

HANDS ON: Grand Seiko’s tool-tastic steel bezel GMTs Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s tool-tastic steel bezel Nov 24, 2021

HANDS ON: Grand Seiko’s tool-tastic steel bezel GMTs

I always find it interesting how certain releases seem to fly under the radar. We all remember that watch that grabbed our attention but barely got a peep from the community. Maybe it’s bad timing or just bad luck but whatever the case may be, some watches just don’t make headlines. However, it tends to … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Grand Seiko’s tool-tastic steel bezel GMTs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Revolution Awards 2021: Celebrating the Best of The Year Revolution
Nov 22, 2021

Revolution Awards 2021: Celebrating the Best of The Year

As we look to the end of the year, it has become tradition for us to celebrate by sorting through the wide array of watches launched over the course of the past months and bestowing awards among the best of the best. It’s not an easy task to begin with, and in a year such as this one, almost an impossible one. Despite the many challenges we’ve faced, on a whole, so many maisons have turned out gorgeous timepieces and made significant breakthroughs; it was tough having to vote any of them out. But we’ve done it again, contended with ourselves over the virtues of each nominee, argued vehemently for our favourites, and here it is. Here are the watches and people are celebrating for the 2021 Revolution Awards.

IN THE SHOP: The Mondaine Official Swiss Railways Mini Clock 12.5cm Time+Tide
Casio nal “Pizza Rat” “Showtime Nov 21, 2021

IN THE SHOP: The Mondaine Official Swiss Railways Mini Clock 12.5cm

Look, I am a New Yorker. Born in the city, living in Manhattan for the majority of my life, I am well-accustomed to daily train rides. The NYC Subway is great for the most part, aside from the occasional “Pizza Rat”, “Showtime dancers”, and a deep cut for any NYC readers “The Earth Angel”. More … ContinuedThe post IN THE SHOP: The Mondaine Official Swiss Railways Mini Clock 12.5cm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Does Hand Finishing Matter? A Collector’s View Of Movement Decoration – Reprise Quill & Pad
Nov 21, 2021

Does Hand Finishing Matter? A Collector’s View Of Movement Decoration – Reprise

Many of you are likely to have come across at least a few heated discussions of “finishing,” a topic that seems to fascinate, and divide, watch enthusiasts. Like many people, GaryG's starting point for serious watches was with a well-priced brand long known for its expertise in developing movements, justly viewed as offering good value for money – but not necessarily for the refinement of its movement finishing, at least on its less expensive pieces. Read on to discover what he has learned since then.

Could this be the Panerai my smaller wrist has been waiting for? Time+Tide
Panerai my smaller wrist has Nov 20, 2021

Could this be the Panerai my smaller wrist has been waiting for?

Admittedly, Panerai is a brand I have stayed away from in regards to my personal collection. I like the design, heritage, and robustness of their watches. It’s really just the size that has scared me off, due to the fact I have rather small wrists. I am intimidated by the 44mm and 47mm models we … ContinuedThe post Could this be the Panerai my smaller wrist has been waiting for? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk: A ‘Date’ With History – Reprise Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Nov 17, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk: A ‘Date’ With History – Reprise

The most striking thing about the Zeitwerk is its incredible look that combines much that is familiar about A. Lange & Söhne and some that is less familiar. The Zeitwerk was a watch to fit the times 12 years ago, a new era of complicated watchmaking, inside the Saxon brand and elsewhere. And now comes the Zeitwerk Date, a complicated sibling with new-and-improved technology.

When high fashion collides with high function – the paradox of the haute couture tool watch Time+Tide
Rado x Nov 14, 2021

When high fashion collides with high function – the paradox of the haute couture tool watch

Okay, weird question: Can a high fashion house known for made-to-measure dresses, luxurious silk scarves or fine handbags produce a legitimate tool watch? What? Who would even ask something like that? What kind of weirdo are you?!! Me, that’s who. I’m your huckleberry. I’m the one who will ask “why not?” more often than “why?”.  … ContinuedThe post When high fashion collides with high function – the paradox of the haute couture tool watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Senna Special Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Senna Special Nov 11, 2021

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Senna Special Edition

Ask any Formula 1 fan who Ayrton Senna was, and the range of emotions they’ll express may leave you perplexed. In the first few seconds, the joy in their eyes may reflect what it felt like to watch one of the most aggressive and talented drivers the sport has ever seen. Eventually, that joy is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Senna Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm Nov 5, 2021

HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm

They say that fashion trends move in cycles, but when a design remains attractive for over a century, you’ve got to admit that it goes beyond mere stylistic whims. The Vacheron Constaintin Historiques American 1921 is unashamedly a period piece, but that’s not to say it belongs to a bygone era. It might look strange … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II “Only Watch” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s tourbillon Nov 3, 2021

Up Close: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II “Only Watch”

The first Chronomètre Contemporain was the watch that vaulted Rexhep Rexhepi into the top league of independent watchmaking. Now the young watchmaker has debuted the followup, first as a unique example for Only Watch 2021. The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II) resembles its predecessor inside and out, yet is entirely different in every aspect, from movement construction to the geometry of the lugs. But what it does share with the RRCC I is a gorgeously finished movement and thoughtful design. Initial thoughts On the face of it, the RRCC II for Only Watch looks like the original Chronometre Contemporain dressed in another dial. But it is entirely new in practically every aspect, right down to the geometry of the case. The RRCC II is akin to a generation of the Porsche 911 – the styling seems unchanged but it is actually a brand new car. The most obvious point of difference is the seconds hand – the RRCC II is a deadbeat seconds. That in itself is novel, because the jumping seconds complication is almost always implemented with a centre seconds. In fact, I can’t think of another watch with a deadbeat subsidiary seconds that isn’t part of another complication. In F.P. Journe’s tourbillon for instance, the deadbeat seconds is part of the constant force mechanism. Even the movement appears superficially similar, though it is quickly evident that it’s a new calibre solely from the two large jewels for the barrel pivots. This has twin barrels, in...

First Full Set Of Philippe Dufour Watches At Historical Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIV: Grande Et Petite Sonnerie (Wristwatch And Pocket Watch), Duality, And Simplicity Quill & Pad
Oct 31, 2021

First Full Set Of Philippe Dufour Watches At Historical Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIV: Grande Et Petite Sonnerie (Wristwatch And Pocket Watch), Duality, And Simplicity

In November 2021 collectors have the chance to see (and possibly buy) all four Philippe Dufour watches in one place, making Phillips' Geneva Watch Auction: XIV what could well be the watch auction of the decade. Joshua Munchow takes a look at each of the four Philippe Dufour models on the block and examines why this is likely to leave its mark on the auction world for years to come.

In-Depth: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Oct 31, 2021

In-Depth: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”

Francois-Paul Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021, the F.P. Journe FFC Blue, sticks to a familiar template. Like prior watches conceived for the biennial charity auction – the tourbillon of 2015, split-seconds chronograph of 2017, and the Astronomic of 2019 – this year’s timepiece has a tantalum case and blue dial. But FFC Blue is a strikingly unique watch – the five-fingered time display is a first in watchmaking. Though it has a conventional round case, the FFC Blue is conceptually closer to the unconventional Vagabondage watches than the brand’s round watches. Short for Francis Ford Coppola, the FFC Blue originated with a question posed to Mr Journe by the director of The Godfather and Apocalypse Now in 2012. Mr Coppola suggested a watch that indicated the time with human hand. Over the following years Mr Journe worked on the concept, with Mr Coppola suggesting the finger positions to indicate each hour. And now the filmmaker’s idea has been realised as a one-off creation for the charity auction. Though entirely unique compared with F.P. Journe’s other creations, the FFC is powered by the workhorse cal. 1300 of the Octa series Initial thoughts I found the hand-display concept intensely compelling when Mr Journe described it during my visit to Geneva in 2017. In the metal the FFC is equally compelling. It is inventive and appealing. It’s rather large at 42 mm in diameter, though like nearly all F.P. Journe watches it is unusually thin given the c...