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Santos Cartier

The 1904 Cartier watch designed for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.

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Tank Cartier

Louis Cartier's 1917 rectangular design, inspired by the Renault FT tank.

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Sword Hands

Flat triangular blade hands without a central ridge. Cartier Tank, Santos, IWC Mark XI / Mark XX classical-dress and military signature.

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Richemont

Geneva luxury holding group founded 1988 by Johann Rupert. Owns Cartier, IWC, JLC, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron, Panerai, Piaget. Largest haute-horlogerie portfolio in the industry.

Introducing – Credor Goldfeather Imari Nabeshima Porcelain Dial GCBY991 Monochrome
Seiko Group was founded Jan 8, 2026

Introducing – Credor Goldfeather Imari Nabeshima Porcelain Dial GCBY991

Credor, a high-end division of the Seiko Group, was founded in 1974 with a focus on refined, ultra-thin timepieces that emphasise artistic and artisanal techniques. Originally catering to the Japanese domestic market, Credor has begun to expand internationally only recently (mostly with the Locomotive, based on a Genta design) and will make its debut at […]

Precious Porcelain: The Seiko Credor Goldfeather GCBY991 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Jan 8, 2026

Precious Porcelain: The Seiko Credor Goldfeather GCBY991

Foreshadowing Credor’s Watches & Wonders debut in April (located alongside sister brand Grand Seiko), the Goldfeather GCBY991 Imari Nabeshima Porcelain is the brand’s first launch of the year. It pairs an ultra-thin hand-wound movement with a dial made using a traditional – and reputedly highly secretive – Japanese porcelain technique. But now the secret is out, cased in steel and limited to 60 pieces worldwide. Initial thoughts Originally envisioned in the 1970s as a vehicle for precious metal quartz watches, Credor later expanded into a catch-all brand for Seiko’s high-end offerings that didn’t fit the Grand Seiko aesthetic. Over the last few years, however, Credor has refocused and shrunk its catalogue from over 200 references in 2021 to fewer than 70 today, shedding legions of ladies’ quartz models while redoubling emphasis on artisanal crafts. The porcelain-dialed GCBY999 embodies this tighter focus and exemplifies the brand’s new motto: “the creativity of artisans”. Despite the Goldfeather branding – and Credor’s original purpose – the GCBY999 is cased in stainless steel. This is a welcome concession given the current price of gold, which is near all-time highs, especially since Seiko generally charges a higher premium for precious metal models than is typical for Swiss brands. As a result, the GCBY999 is good value within the Goldfeather lineup, despite its artisanal dial. The watch retails for JPY1.98 million in Japan, equivalent to about ...

Credor Watches: Japan's Answer To Switzerland's Best Teddy Baldassarre
Credor Oct 23, 2025

Credor Watches: Japan's Answer To Switzerland's Best

Similar to Switzerland at the heart of Europe, Japan has a hierarchy of complexity in its watches, with brands like Grand Seiko often being the first to come to mind in the luxury segment. However, just like the artistic free spirits from Switzerland who uphold centuries-old principles of the craft, there is a brand with tremendous mystique that is quickly emerging as a name to be reckoned with. It simply goes by the name, Credor. A Brief History of Credor Watches Much like Grand Seiko, Credor was born as a luxury offshoot of Seiko, established in 1974 to produce precious metal watches under the "Crêt D'or" name, which translates from French as “pinnacle of gold”. The name evolved to “Credor” in the 1980s, which saw the introduction of the brand's triple-peaked logo capped by three stars. It remained as a co-brand with Seiko on watch dials throughout the ‘90s, was sold mainly in Japan, and appeared on watches that combined luxury with sport, along with select jewelry pieces.  The focus on both kinds of watches –  the luxury-sport and the jewelry – had one distinct commonality: a specific focus on design with a bent toward capturing a certain opulent fervor of the 1980s and ‘90s. You can see some similarities in these watches as what was coming out of Switzerland by way of a certain Gérald Genta (and the connection between he and Credor doesn’t stop there). Credor In The 1990s The 1990s are something of an inflection point for the brand, when the Seiko...

Introducing – The new Credor Goldfeather GBBY969 and GBBY971 with Enamel Dials Monochrome
Grand Seiko Sep 15, 2025

Introducing – The new Credor Goldfeather GBBY969 and GBBY971 with Enamel Dials

While Grand Seiko is now well-established all around the world as the higher-end brand of the Seiko Watch Corporation, Credor remains far more niche and has just begun its global expansion, primarily with the Locomotive collection, based on a vintage watch once designed by Gérald Genta. Credor, another high-end brandwithin the group, employs a more classic approach with watches […]

A Rare Bird: Credor Introduces the Goldfeather Tourbillon Worn & Wound
Seiko umbrella but Jul 28, 2025

A Rare Bird: Credor Introduces the Goldfeather Tourbillon

Credor is a brand that even after several years of writing about watches professionally still feels truly exotic and mysterious to me. Most brands, even those at the very high end, are fairly easy to peg once you spend some time with the watches and do all the research that comes along with learning about these things. But Credor is so rare in the United States, and so niche in terms of its appeal, it’s a brand that has eluded me even as it fascinates me. It’s also feels in some ways like it’s multiple brands in one. They make the most complicated and extravagant watches under the very large Seiko umbrella, but an alert set for “Credor” on WatchRecon returns endless affordable and quite beautiful quartz dress watches, along with the odd contemporary Spring Drive powered piece. All made, of course, for the Japanese market.  Last week, Credor introduced a watch that will probably not be seen in my WatchRecon alerts anytime soon, sitting at the opposite end of the spectrum from those affordable dressy pieces. The new reference is GBCF999 and is part of the Goldfeather collection, a series of very refined dress pieces that explore a variety of decorative arts in watchmaking. The Goldfeather Tourbillon, as it’s officially known, is the first time a tourbillon has been featured in the collection, and the watch also incorporates a number of other advancements in decoration and iterations to the Goldfeather case design.  We have to start, of course, with the dial, wh...

Falling In Love All Over Again With The Green-Dial Version Of The Credor Locomotive Fratello
Credor Jul 1, 2025

Falling In Love All Over Again With The Green-Dial Version Of The Credor Locomotive

If you are a regular reader of Fratello, you might be aware that I adore the Credor Locomotive. Gérald Genta’s remarkable creation is one of those standout watches that most either love or hate. There seems to be no middle ground when it comes to the watch’s extravagant looks. I was fortunate enough to spend […] Visit Falling In Love All Over Again With The Green-Dial Version Of The Credor Locomotive to read the full article.

Introducing – The Credor GCBD997 with Artist Akira Yamaguchi Monochrome
Grand Seiko Jun 17, 2025

Introducing – The Credor GCBD997 with Artist Akira Yamaguchi

Thanks to the recent introduction of the revived Locomotive watch, made with Gérald Genta, many might have finally got to know about Credor, the high-end watch brand owned by the Seiko Watch Corporation, alongside Grand Seiko. For now, its fame mostly came from the splendid Eichi models, as well as the ultra-complicated minute repeaters and grande sonneries. But […]

Seiko Introduces the Credor Locomotive GCCR997 SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Feb 5, 2025

Seiko Introduces the Credor Locomotive GCCR997

Have revived the Credor Locomotive last year with the limited edition GCCR999, Seiko has now added the Gerald Genta-designed sports watch to its regular production lineup. The Credor Locomotive GCCR997 is identical to its limited edition counterpart, save for the dial, which is now dark green with an intricate hexagon pattern. Initial thoughts Having already gotten wind of the Locomotive becoming regular production, the new GCCR997 isn’t a surprise. It is also inevitable given the good response enjoyed by the limited edition, which was well priced, especially for the case and bracelet quality. The honeycomb dial with its novel pattern is a nice touch. Seiko has wisely kept the retail price essentially unchanged over the limited edition – this is about US$500 more expensive – which means the is still good value, and also more accessible. And I’m sure this won’t be the only Locomotive in the catalogue, so expect to see more variants in the future. Hexagon themed The new Locomotive has the same titanium case and bracelet found on last year’s model. The GCCR997 retains the dimensions of the vintage original that was launched in 1978, but with an improved construction and finish. Made of Seiko’s “high-intensity” titanium, the case and bracelet are finished with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces that gleam a little more than usual because the proprietary alloy has greater hardness than the conventional titanium alloys used in watches. The original,...

Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive With A New Dial Fratello
Gerald Genta Feb 5, 2025

Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive With A New Dial

One of last year’s biggest surprises was the reintroduction of the Credor Locomotive. The original watch from the 1970s was one of Gérald Genta’s lesser-known creations. As soon as you see it, though, you immediately recognize Genta’s characteristic design signature. Having said that, it’s a divisive design because of its quirky presence. I also had […] Visit Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive With A New Dial to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Green Credor Locomotive GCCR997 to Join the Permanent Collection Monochrome
Seiko Corporation – unveiled Feb 5, 2025

Introducing – The New Green Credor Locomotive GCCR997 to Join the Permanent Collection

Last year, to celebrate its 50th anniversary, Credor – the high-end, most classical brand owned by the Seiko Corporation – unveiled a very special watch based on the Locomotive concept and being a faithful recreation of Gérald Genta‘s original 1978 sketch. While Genta is best known for designing the iconic Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Ingenieur, […]

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Greater China SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Nov 14, 2024

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Greater China

Audemars Piguet (AP) debuts an entirely new look for its thinnest-ever perpetual with the  Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Greater China. Crafted entirely in yellow gold in a first for the model, the limited edition even sports a gilded dial with matching yellow gold moon disc. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak is inarguably the face of AP. And amongst Royal Oak models, the ultra-thin perpetual calendar stands out for its technical sophistication. Derived from the Royal Oak RD#2 concept watch, the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin has a cleverly engineered movement that spreads out the calendar mechanism to minimise its height. That results in a slim case that enhances the proportions of the Royal Oak design. The signature starry moon phase features yellow gold-toned moons The Greater China edition is a major departure from the grey and blue tones of the prior two versions. It’s loud and definitely not for everyone, but it does look good. At the same time, it also references vintage Royal Oak perpetual calendar models that featured similar all-gold livery. Though the price is only on request, the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin mode in general is pricey, arguably more expensive than it should be in fact, but it looks and feels great on the wrist. Yellow moons Crafted from 18k yellow gold, the ultra-thin yellow gold case is 41 mm in diameter and 6.2 mm in thickness. Water resistant to only 20 m due to its thinness, the case is finished in traditional Royal Oak style, wit...

Hands-on – The Divisively Beautiful Gerald Genta Designed Credor Locomotive Monochrome
Seiko s high-end line offering Aug 9, 2024

Hands-on – The Divisively Beautiful Gerald Genta Designed Credor Locomotive

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Credor, a brand that began as Seiko‘s high-end line, offering timepieces crafted from precious metals. Today, Credor is renowned for its commitment to superior craftsmanship and aesthetic sensibility, which is evident in every aspect of its watches, from design to the intricate movements made up of countless minute […]

Going Hands-On With The Divisive Modern Version Of The Credor Locomotive Fratello
Credor Aug 3, 2024

Going Hands-On With The Divisive Modern Version Of The Credor Locomotive

The Credor Locomotive is, without a doubt, the most surprising release of the past few months. Credor’s revival of this Gérald Genta-designed classic from the 1970s had people talking. In particular, strong opinions about whether this was a good design or not quickly made the rounds on social media. At first sight, the Locomotive doesn’t […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Divisive Modern Version Of The Credor Locomotive to read the full article.

The July 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Lunar Crater Fratello
Jul 30, 2024

The July 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Lunar Crater

It’s the last Tuesday of the month, which means we’re introducing a new Speedmaster strap in collaboration with the Swedish brand REM. We decided to choose a leather color we had never used before and feature an engraving of the lunar surface in a contrasting shade. The inspiration behind the Lunar Crater strap Lunar craters are […] Visit The July 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Lunar Crater to read the full article.

Hands-On Impressions of the New Credor Locomotive Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Madison Avenue boutique Jun 7, 2024

Hands-On Impressions of the New Credor Locomotive

Walking into Grand Seiko’s Madison Avenue boutique last week, I was ready for a fun evening with great company. After all, that’s what you expect anytime you go to an event hosted by Complecto. What I wasn’t expecting was the opportunity to check out the latest and greatest from Credor, the recently relaunched Locomotive, just a day after its public launch. Timed to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Credor, the revival of the Locomotive resurrects a long-dormant design from probably the most influential and well-known watch designer of the 20th century, Gerald Genta, and it more than lives up to both his name, and that of Credor. And speaking of names; when is a Seiko, not a Seiko? I admit, it’s a slightly odd question, but it bears asking. Seiko sells watches at just about every conceivable price point for every conceivable customer. But whether you’re picking up a Seiko for $79.94 on Amazon or a Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon for $350,000, every watch in the Seiko lineup will always have something in common - the word “Seiko” on the dial. It’s hard to think of another watch brand that not only sells watches at such dramatically different prices, but that doesn’t shy away from putting the same name on their entire collection. Sure, there are slight differences we learn to decode. Grand Seiko and Prospex elicit different reactions from collectors than Seiko 5 or Astron but, fundamentally, Seiko proudly declares just about every watch they make a Seiko. ...

Seiko Revives the Credor Locomotive Designed by Gerald Genta SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 1972 IWC May 31, 2024

Seiko Revives the Credor Locomotive Designed by Gerald Genta

After having designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972), IWC Ingenieur (1974), and Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976), Gerald Genta also penned the Seiko Credor Locomotive in 1978. Now Seiko has revived the Credor Locomotive, preserving much of the original’s aesthetics but executing it in the brand’s proprietary “high-intensity” titanium and installing the new Credor CR01 automatic movement. The 1978 sketch of the Locomotive Initial thoughts Probably the last of the 1970s integrated bracelet sports watches Genta designed, the Locomotive is typical of his work of the period. In fact, the design is arguably an amalgamation of his better-known creations. Though it brings to mind his other work, the Locomotive is distinctive and definitely polarising. The Locomotive isn’t Genta’s best creation, but for some reason I like it. I’m familiar with the original and it has charm, despite being a little weird. I am sure the new limited edition will have far superior fit and finish, which will boost the intrinsic appeal. At the same time, the retail price of US$12,000 is competitive, especially when set against the Swiss competition like the IWC Ingenieur. Forward motion Named locomotive in the hope that it would propel Seiko forward, the Locomotive was designed by Genta at the request of Reijiro Hattori, a grandson of Seiko’s founder and uncle of current Seiko Group chairman Shinji Hattori. Genta’s original sketch for the Locomotive is dated 1978, and the watch was l...

Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Makes A Comeback Fratello
Gerald Genta May 30, 2024

Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Makes A Comeback

The Credor Locomotive is a fascinating design from the late 1970s. Today, the brand has brought it back to life. Let’s take a first look at this rather special timepiece and find out more. Anything Gérald Genta once touched (or, rather, designed) may as well have turned to gold. We’ve seen many brands leverage his […] Visit Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Makes A Comeback to read the full article.