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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Remembering Jean-Marie Schaller, One Of Watchmaking’s Brightest Characters Fratello
Louis Moinet May 19, 2026

Remembering Jean-Marie Schaller, One Of Watchmaking’s Brightest Characters

We were deeply saddened to hear of the passing of Jean-Marie Schaller, the owner and creative force behind Louis Moinet. Jean-Marie passed away peacefully on May 16th at the age of 66. I wanted to share a few personal words about Jean-Marie because he was someone I came to know not only through watches but […] Visit Remembering Jean-Marie Schaller, One Of Watchmaking’s Brightest Characters to read the full article.

Revisting The Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar Ice Blue Review WatchAdvice
Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar Ice May 19, 2026

Revisting The Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar Ice Blue Review

The first standard production watch with the Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar movement, of course, had to be a Navitimer. We have gone hands-on with it to see how it stacks up! What We Love That ice-blue dial is stunning! Has an amazing wrist presence and an iconic design Easy to use and adjust movement with the perpetual calendar What We Don’t The reverse-style strap can get in the way, depending on your wrist size The 30m water resistance is on the low side The 43mm size will not suit all wrist sizes if you have a smaller wrist Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Originally published as: Reviewing The New Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar In Ice Blue When you think of Breitling, one of the first, if not the first, model that comes to mind is the Navitimer. Not only is it one of Breitling’s most iconic models, but it is also one of the most iconic watches out there, thanks to its history, unique slide-rule bezel and overall design cues that make it stand out. You can easily recognise a Navitimer on the wrist from a distance. In that regard, it’s up there with the Submariner, the Speedmaster, the Luminor, and the Royal Oak, to name but a few. So it stands to reason that it was one of the models to receive the new in-house B19 Perpetual Calendar movement as part of Breitling’s 140th Anniversary Collection. The 18k Rose Gold 140th Anniversary Navitimer B19 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar. This was my p...

Introducing – The Kurono Tokyo Malachite 2026 Special Projects Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo Malachite 2026 Special Projects May 19, 2026

Introducing – The Kurono Tokyo Malachite 2026 Special Projects

Created by Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, a man capable of creating superb watches and movements, Kurono Tokyo aims to apply his design language to a more accessible price range. While the entire production of the brand is limited and relatively difficult to obtain, the “special projects” collection adds a sense of exclusivity through the […]

The Next Chapter of the Breitling Chronomat Brings a Whopping 22 New Additions Worn & Wound
Breitling Chronomat Brings May 19, 2026

The Next Chapter of the Breitling Chronomat Brings a Whopping 22 New Additions

As the saying goes, variety is the spice of life, and with Breitling’s release of a staggering 22 new models to its Chronomat lineup, it just might be true. The model is pretty iconic, starting as a pilot’s watch for military forces and later becoming a cultural phenomenon, with one of its claims to fame being its appearance on Jerry’s wrist across Seinfeld. The latest chapter of the collection covers the Chronomat B01 42, Chronomat Automatic B31 40, and Chronomat Automatic 36, giving Breitling’s signature sport watch a full refresh across size, movement, and material options.  The Chronomat B01 42 remains the main chronograph in the revamp, with a few updates aimed at making the watch look (and feel) a little better on the wrist. For starters, the case thickness has been slimmed from 15.1mm to 13.77mm, the crown guard has been reduced, and Breitling has removed the 1/100 scale from the rehaut for a cleaner dial. All of these updates may seem a bit inconsequential, but when brought together, they add up to an overall sleeker profile that’s meant to “enhance its simplicity,” as noted by Breitling’s Head of Design, Pablo Widmer.  The B01 42 is powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, which offers approximately 70 hours of power reserve. In stainless steel, it comes with the choice of a white, blue, or green dial, each with black chronograph counters. The range extends with several additional variations, including a two-tone steel and ...

The Breitling Of Breitlings Gets An Update: Introducing The Redesigned Chronomat Fratello
Breitling May 19, 2026

The Breitling Of Breitlings Gets An Update: Introducing The Redesigned Chronomat

Some might say the Navitimer is the “most Breitling” watch out there. I tend to disagree. If you ask me, the Breitling that says “Breitling” the loudest and clearest is the Chronomat. The redesigned Breitling Chronomat keeps its connection to the model developed in the early 1980s in collaboration with the Italian Air Force’s Frecce […] Visit The Breitling Of Breitlings Gets An Update: Introducing The Redesigned Chronomat to read the full article.

Introducing: Breitling Refreshes The Chronomat Collection Hodinkee
Breitling Refreshes May 19, 2026

Introducing: Breitling Refreshes The Chronomat Collection

What We Know Today, Breitling relaunches the Chronomat lineup with an updated design language that builds on the collection's major 2020 revamp and makes a few small adjustments that feel quite consumer-friendly. The refreshed collection spans the gamut of sizes and complications, with 22 variants, from chronographs to time-and-date models, in many dial colors and metals. There are three models in the new lineup: the Chronomat B01 42 chronograph, the Chronomat Automatic B31 40, and the Chronomat Automatic 36.  The steel Chronomat B01 with ice blue dial and platinum bezel. In steel, the Chronomat B01 comes with a white, blue, or green dial and contrasting black subdials, while in two-tone steel and red gold, it features a grey dial. A full red gold variant features a brown dial, while a steel case with a platinum bezel comes with an ice blue dial. Chronomat Automatic B31 40mm. There is also a new model in this update, the Chronomat Automatic B31 40. It's the first time-and-date Chronomat in a 40mm diameter, which I think hits the sweet spot for the more sporty, aggressive Chronomat design and a wide range of wrists. It's also the first time we've seen the Caliber B31 on a Chronomat, as it was previously used in the Top Time B31 and a few SuperOcean Heritage models. In steel, there are three dial colors: blue, green, and white, while a steel case with a platinum bezel comes with an ice blue dial.  For the Chronomat Automatic 36, a steel version is available in a classic bl...

Hands-On With The New Cartier Santos-Dumont In Full Gold Or Platinum With A Bracelet Fratello
Cartier Santos-Dumont May 19, 2026

Hands-On With The New Cartier Santos-Dumont In Full Gold Or Platinum With A Bracelet

At Watches and Wonders, we see many watches, of course. It’s actually not the best place to see watches, though. During the “touch & try” sessions, watches are passed around quickly as everyone tries to take as many pictures as possible. Cartier is notoriously one of the most watch-heavy sessions, as the brand usually presents […] Visit Hands-On With The New Cartier Santos-Dumont In Full Gold Or Platinum With A Bracelet to read the full article.

The Longines Legend Diver 59 is Bigger and Better SJX Watches
Longines Legend Diver 59 May 19, 2026

The Longines Legend Diver 59 is Bigger and Better

Longines is carrying momentum into the summer after the well-received launch of the refreshed Hydroconquest line. The brand hopes to continue that winning streak with a nipped and tucked 42 mm Legend Diver 59. As the name suggests, the LLD 59 references the 42 mm ref. 7042 launched in 1959, and offers a different take on the dive watch that gives it a distinct character compared to many Submariner-inspired peers. Initial thoughts The original LLD of 2007 was a pioneer of the now-common practice of reissuing historical models. While faux patina and period-correct details seem to be everywhere today, they seemed novel back then. Many brands followed — quickly enough to suggest concurrent development — but the launch of the LLD helped usher in a design trend that still dominates the industry. The LLD 59 offers a straightforward value proposition — a high-fidelity historical design, an advanced proprietary calibre, and an affordable price of US$4,100. The ‘Super Compressor’-style case — characterised by its dual crowns and internal rotating bezel — offers an alternative perspective on the dive watch compared to category mainstays like the Tudor Black Bay. For collectors and enthusiasts troubled by the notion that a Black Bay might been perceived as a ‘poor man’s Submariner’, the LLD is a similarly priced and similarly equipped vintage-inspired diver with an entirely different look. While Tudor might be the most obvious point of reference, the LLD 59 will li...

Introducing the Longines Legend Diver 59 Worn & Wound
Longines Legend Diver 59 Someday May 18, 2026

Introducing the Longines Legend Diver 59

Someday, when the history of the contemporary vintage inspired sports watch is written, the Longines Legend Diver will need an entire chapter devoted to it. It’s an incredibly important watch not just in this very specific genre (which at times over the last decade or so has been the most important segment in watchmaking) but in the annals of modern watch history. I sometimes think its influence is not quite given enough credit as it is often compared and lumped in with the Tudor Black Bay, but the Legend Diver is very much its own thing and set a course for Longines upon its introduction that the brand is still very much following to this day.  There have been a number of iterations on the original Legend Diver format over the years, including limited editions and a very well received line of smaller, more compact Legend Divers in easy to wear 39mm cases. The latest Legend Diver, the Legend Diver 59, arrives today and feels like a return to the original reissue of the iconic diver in a number of ways.  The most notable thing about the Legend Diver 59 (besides the name, which will likely invite even more comparisons, and probably some memes, comparing the watch to various numbered Tudor Black Bays) is the watch’s size. The case here measures 42mm, the same as the original reissue of the Legend Diver, as well as the actual original Legend Diver, which first appeared in, you guessed it, 1959. When I saw this watch in person at a Longines preview event in Dallas earlier...

Introducing the Horologically Unique HU-01 “Finale” Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe s Calatrava 96 May 18, 2026

Introducing the Horologically Unique HU-01 “Finale”

Last year’s HU-01 took the watch world by storm, paying homage to Patek Philippe’s Calatrava 96 and offering it for a fraction of the source material’s price. Horologically Unique stuck closely to the Calatrava’s design language but added their own embellishments and twists. The original HU-01 modernized a classic to some degree, taking the original’s case dimensions of 31mm and bulking them up to 36mm, using a high-domed sapphire crystal, and installing an exhibition case back. Horologically Unique’s newest model, named the HU-01 Finale, takes the same general formula but adds a hint of luxury and a dash of more historically-accurate design elements. The Finale positions itself somewhere between the first HU-01 and the original Calatrava 96, both in aesthetics and pricing. So what makes the Finale a cut above its predecessor? The first notable difference can be seen with the two dials on offer: one in a brushed grey finish and the other with a stone dial made of jade. The latter model, nicknamed the “Yu” or “玉” meaning jade in Chinese, exhibits a gorgeous greenish-blue hue courtesy of the Burmese jade. It’s unlike most other stone dials I’ve seen, and I’m sure it will be a sight to behold in-person under direct lighting. Adorning both dials are a series of lab-grown diamonds, three baguette cut and eight round brilliant cut. Adding a bit of bling to a sterile dial is a unique choice, one I think helps add more character to what otherwise would ...

Business News: Royal Pop Sales Resume After Launch Rush For Audemars Piguet X Swatch Collaboration Forced Store Closures Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet X Swatch Collaboration Forced May 18, 2026

Business News: Royal Pop Sales Resume After Launch Rush For Audemars Piguet X Swatch Collaboration Forced Store Closures

Sales of the Royal Pop, the bioceramic pocket watch collaboration from Audemars Piguet and Swatch, resumed in some locations on Monday after the Saturday launch was marred by overwhelming crowds that forced store closures across Asia, the Middle East, Europe, and North America. Customers were seen buying the $400 watch in Geneva on Monday as the Swatch boutique resumed sales of the timepiece.  Swatch boutique in Geneva on Saturday saw a heavy police presence to control crowds. Swatch closed at least 20 of its stores on Saturday as launch-day crowds and demand for the Royal Pop pocket watch overwhelmed security and staff. Stores in the U.A.E, India, the U.K., Europe, and at locations in the U.S. and Canada were closed on May 16, according to social media posts, after crowds seeking to buy the pocket watch collaboration surged, queues collapsed, and sporadic scenes of violence broke out. Police were on hand at dozens of locations to control crowds. The line at the Swatch boutique in Wales (photo: Matthew Horwood/Getty Images). The sign on the window of the Wales Swatch boutique following the temporary store closure (photo: Matthew Horwood/Getty Images). The Biel/Bienne-based company, in a statement, said Monday that "the response to the Royal Pop Collection has been phenomenal worldwide," and demand is extremely high. Swatch said that in "around 20 Swatch stores" out of a total of 220 stores globally where the Royal Pop was launched, "challenges arose on launch day because ...

Honeygold Takes Center Stage Across the Case and Dial in This Lesser-Known A. Lange & Söhne Collection, the Cabaret Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Sohne May 18, 2026

Honeygold Takes Center Stage Across the Case and Dial in This Lesser-Known A. Lange & Söhne Collection, the Cabaret

It’s been a few years since we last saw A. Lange & Söhne fold one of its lesser-known collections back into its catalog: the Cabaret. Making a comeback, the newest addition marks the only rectangular model among the brand’s current offerings. It also puts the maison’s proprietary alloy, Honeygold, on full display across the case as well as the dial for only the second time, with the first being the Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” from 2020. The rectangular case shape of the Cabaret is certainly unique for A. Lange & Söhne, who’s become synonymous with more traditional round designs like its instantly recognizable Lange 1. However, for me, despite the highly wearable 29.5mm x 39.2mm x 10.3mm proportions, the material composition and finishings of this model are really the star of the show. Here, you have the pleasing alloy – not quite yellow gold, not quite white gold, not quite pink gold but a soft and beautiful shade all its own – featured in its original form across the case and dial accents. The material is also used for the dial but has received a black-rhodium treatment.    At first glance, this looks like just another handsomely executed A. Lange & Söhne dial, but upon closer inspection, there are more layers to unpack (literally). The result is four subtle elevations on the dial giving it interest and depth. This dial composition consists of three parts: the main dial plus two auxiliary dials for the seconds and the power-...

The Delugs Micro-Adjust CTS Deployant Clasp Is A Small Upgrade That Makes A Big Difference Fratello
May 18, 2026

The Delugs Micro-Adjust CTS Deployant Clasp Is A Small Upgrade That Makes A Big Difference

I reviewed some Delugs straps back in 2024, and since then, I’ve added a decent selection of the brand’s rubber CTS straps and sailcloth straps to my rotation. In fact, I recently bought a couple of sailcloth straps for some of the newer watches in my collection. So when Delugs kindly offered to send over […] Visit The Delugs Micro-Adjust CTS Deployant Clasp Is A Small Upgrade That Makes A Big Difference to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: A Diamond in the Rough? SJX Watches
Chanel s watch business into May 18, 2026

SJX Podcast: A Diamond in the Rough?

Tiffany & Co. is one of the only major jewellers without a significant watchmaking programme. Episode 41 of the SJX Podcast examines the brand’s past, present, and future under the leadership of Nicolas Beau, who is credited with building Chanel’s watch business into what it is today. When it comes to watches, Tiffany & Co. is potentially a diamond in the rough — it’s a uniquely American luxury brand with enviable cultural recognition. The brand also has a global boutique network giving it immediate access to all major markets, which could accelerate its trajectory with the right product mix. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Seiko Marks 145 Years with Arita Porcelain Presage SJX Watches
Seiko Marks 145 Years May 18, 2026

Seiko Marks 145 Years with Arita Porcelain Presage

As Seiko’s 145th anniversary celebrations unfold, the brand expands its value-oriented Presage Classic “Craftsmanship” collection with two new commemorative limited editions. The HCC007 features a gradient blue Arita porcelain dial in an appealing 39.6 mm size, while the 36 mm HCC004 answers the call for smaller dress watch options. Initial thoughts Seiko has been making incremental improvements to its Presage line of entry-level dress watches since the collection debuted in 2010. Almost since the beginning, Seiko has used the Presage as a vehicle to experiment with ways to make traditional craftsmanship accessible, starting with fired enamel dials in 2012 and Arita porcelain dials in 2019. Since then, the Presage has benefited from a movement upgrade, and now boasts a weekend-proof three-day power reserve. The 145th anniversary editions prove that Seiko hasn’t run out of ideas, and the HCC007 in particular brings an additional layer of artisanal individuality to the execution that is rarely seen at this price range — its gradient blue dial has echoes of the Credor Eichi II in ruri blue. The charming and compact 36 mm HCC004 offers a little something for everyone. Powered by the same cal. 6R51 as its porcelain-dialled sibling, it features an embossed dial with a silk-like texture — the latest in a long line of Seiko watches with fabric-patterned dials. Both models appear aimed at the enthusiast market, as neither features a date window. This gives each watch a ...

The Neo-Vintage Sweet Spot: Why The Seiko Marinemaster SBDX001 Still Makes Sense Today Fratello
Seiko Marinemaster SBDX001 Still Makes May 17, 2026

The Neo-Vintage Sweet Spot: Why The Seiko Marinemaster SBDX001 Still Makes Sense Today

There is a particular charm to watches that sit just beyond modernity yet remain too young to be vintage. In recent years, collectors have coined the term “neo-vintage” to define this liminal space, roughly spanning the mid-1990s through the 2000s. It’s a period defined not by nostalgia alone but also by a fascinating intersection of […] Visit The Neo-Vintage Sweet Spot: Why The Seiko Marinemaster SBDX001 Still Makes Sense Today to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: An Enormous Ruby, a New Release from Liberum Watches, and Images from the Cannes Film Festival Worn & Wound
Ming from May 16, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: An Enormous Ruby, a New Release from Liberum Watches, and Images from the Cannes Film Festival

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Liberum Watches Finding new ways to stand out in the watch market doesn’t have to be limited to a new silhouette, a new strap, or colorway. Sometimes, it’s about being innovative with materials. Take Liberum’s RE-XHAUST, a new release coming from the Italian brand through its Kickstarter campaign. As Liberum notes, traditional stainless steel production relies on mining raw materials and an energy-intensive manufacturing process. By working with Termignoni (an Italian brand that specializes in motorcycle exhausts) Liberum recycles the exhaust material into the RE-XHAUST’s watch cases. In doing so, Liberum has added a sustainable – and perhaps competitive – angle to its release, coming later this month. Keith Haring Auction This week, Sotheby’s began auctioning off a series of works by Keith Haring, from the private collection of his friend Kermit Oswald. With a friendship that originated in their childhood, Oswald’s selection of items on the block show an intimacy with the Haring that few were able to achieve within the artist’s short life (Haring died when he was 31 due to complications with AIDS). Within the collection, Oswald has included some fasc...

Hands-On With The New Synchron Ti300M Poseidon I Limited Edition Fratello
Ming because May 16, 2026

Hands-On With The New Synchron Ti300M Poseidon I Limited Edition

Today has been a long time coming because the new Synchron Ti300M Poseidon I Limited Edition has been on my wrist for over a month! During that period, I’ve been able to put the watch through its paces, and I’m pleased to say that it’s a great option for anyone in the market for a […] Visit Hands-On With The New Synchron Ti300M Poseidon I Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing: The Beaucroft Contour GMT And Solaris GMT Limited Edition In Collaboration With Time+Tide Fratello
May 16, 2026

Introducing: The Beaucroft Contour GMT And Solaris GMT Limited Edition In Collaboration With Time+Tide

Cambridge-based independent watchmaker Beaucroft announces two new timepieces focused on the GMT function. Crossing time zones is part of the job as an independent watchmaker sourcing components, building connections, and constantly spreading the word. That daily grind makes the GMT complication a natural next step for Beaucroft. Tracking dual time zones keeps the wearer punctual […] Visit Introducing: The Beaucroft Contour GMT And Solaris GMT Limited Edition In Collaboration With Time+Tide to read the full article.

Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon In Honeygold Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne May 16, 2026

Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon In Honeygold

Niche Lange collectors, rejoice! The Cabaret is back! Well, sort of. Today, on this fine Saturday, Lange has brought back the Cabaret in its complicated form, with a 50-piece run of the Cabaret Tourbillon in the brand's proprietary Honeygold alloy. It is a hefty block of grey and Honeygold, with this rectangular silhouette making its first appearance after a 30-piece handwerskskunst run in 2021. The price point, like many of the past Cabaret Tourbillon editions, sits in the mid-six-figure range at around €300,000. When the Cabaret Tourbillon was first introduced to the world in 2008, it was quite horologically impressive, adding the world's first hacking tourbillon into the brand's rectangular design from 1997. It might sound quite surprising that a hacking tourbillon had not been produced until 2008, but being able to stop such a large mass like a tourbillon cage is certainly not an easy feat, especially when you require delicate parts to do so, and with the need to navigate around the tourbillon cage itself. After all, you'd need to be able to stop the cage at any orientation it's in, and at any point in the balance wheel's oscillation. So Lange's movement designers set to work and devised a V-shaped spring that would directly halt the balance wheel—not the tourbillon cage. Its V-shape, centered around a rotating pivot at the end of a lever, would mean that one side would make contact with the balance wheel or tourbillon cage post, and pivot the other side of the V i...

Review: the Venezianico Arenale Calendario Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko May 15, 2026

Review: the Venezianico Arenale Calendario

Venezianico makes a lot of watches. This is a fact that’s become unmistakably clear over these last few years as their footprint has expanded in the enthusiast community. Regardless of whether you know them for watches like this or watches like this, there’s a good chance they also make a watch that’s completely unlike anything you’ve already seen from them.  Making a huge variety of watches at a high volume can be a bit of a gamble in this industry. There’s a sense among many enthusiasts that exclusivity is something to be protected, and when a watch brand casts a very wide net, it can dilute their messaging. We had a great discussion along these lines concerning Grand Seiko in a recent podcast. Clearly there was a moment a few years ago when that brand was flooding the market with new stuff, and their identity was a little lost. “Analysis paralysis” is a term often used by consumers to describe the feeling of shopping a brand that has too much stuff to sift through.  The counter argument of course is right there in the Seiko family. No enthusiast would say that too many watches in the Prospex, Presage, and Seiko 5 lines, among others, is a bad thing. Between the many branches of the Seiko family tree, there are accessible options for everyone, and that’s historically been seen as a good thing for the community and the sign of a healthy brand appealing to a broad market.  What this really comes down to is whether a brand is positioning itself as luxury ...