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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

The Rivanera Gets Echo/Neutralized By Seconde/Seconde/ Fratello
May 1, 2026

The Rivanera Gets Echo/Neutralized By Seconde/Seconde/

It’s always fun to see a seconde/seconde/ take on a popular watch. With the many whimsical releases Romaric André created while collaborating with brands, you sometimes wonder whether he is ever short of good ideas. So far, though, that hasn’t been a problem. If anything, I have seen the releases become better over time. The […] Visit The Rivanera Gets Echo/Neutralized By Seconde/Seconde/ to read the full article.

Zenith Introduces the Latest Chronomaster Revival A384, a Study in Patina Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces May 1, 2026

Zenith Introduces the Latest Chronomaster Revival A384, a Study in Patina

Zenith has launched the latest version of their popular Chronomaster Revival A384, a line that takes the iconic case of the A384 and often plays with color and materials as a platform for a modern El Primero movement. The A384, for me, has always been the most interesting of the Zenith heritage releases. It feels truly transported from another time, fully intact, largely thanks to the iconic ladder bracelet that we often see included with these references (more on that in a minute). This particular release really leans into a very specific vintage look, and I imagine will be warmly welcomed by modern Zenith enthusiasts who appreciate and collect vintage Zenith as well.  The story here, clearly, is the brown used as an accent color to evoke natural patina that vintage watch collectors often prize over perfectly preserved watches. A so-called “tropical” dial occurs over a long stretch of time when a watch is exposed to the outside world, the sun’s rays slowly fading the color present in the original dial. This will often result in a brown or tan color to emerge from black paint, which is particularly noticeable on chronographs with black subdials, which is what Zenith is going for here. But the “tropical” effect can, in theory, be applied to any color, and change blues, greens, and reds in unexpected ways.  Here we have a white dial with a very subtle grain and brown subdials at 3, 6, and 9, for the chronograph minutes, chronograph hours, and running seconds, res...

News – Rolex Quietly Updates the Datejust 41 and 36 in 2026 with new Roman Numeral Dials Monochrome
Rolex Quietly Updates May 1, 2026

News – Rolex Quietly Updates the Datejust 41 and 36 in 2026 with new Roman Numeral Dials

We’ve long come to understand that, during Watches and Wonders (where it releases almost its entire collection for the year), Rolex communicates only on certain of its novelties. What the brand considers the most important, the most relevant and the deepest updates. But, there’s very often more to the story than just what’s been presented […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Alternatives In 2026 Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Alternatives May 1, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Alternatives In 2026

Another Friday, another list. After last week’s list of Tudor Black Bay alternatives, we’ll move on to one of the watch world’s biggest icons. It’s time to check out our five favorite alternatives to the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo.” This watch is widely regarded as having spawned a new genre in 1972, and […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 In Aeruse Blue Hodinkee
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Apr 30, 2026

Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 In Aeruse Blue

If there's a watch that seemingly stole the hearts of many collectors this year at Watches and Wonders, it's definitely Chopard's new blue-dialed L.U.C 1860 dress watch. The funniest part is that the new model is really only a dial color change. That's it. And yet, among a sea of new designs and complications, Chopard managed to pull off something much larger than its description on paper, and ended up being one of my personal favorite releases from the show. If you're familiar with the previous, now-discontinued salmon dial version of the L.U.C 1860 released back in 2023, well, chances are you already know much about this watch. But its identical specs are very much a good thing, as I think Chopard has really hit a home run with the 1860 as a proper, compact, and thin (8.2mm) dress watch amongst its larger L.U.C. movement-powered siblings.  The 36.5mm case in Chopard's Lucent Steel alloy is very safe in its design, with smooth, curved lines and a fully-polished, rounded bezel and top lugs. While there aren't any little extra design touches that add any additional flair, the sides are vertically brushed to create a bit of contrast. Is the case boring as a result? Certainly not in my eye, as its subdued character works well in the 36.5mm format and, most importantly, it serves as a very nice frame for a spectacular dial. That dial, produced by Chopard's in-house dialmaker Metalem, is an absolute home run. And it surprises me to say this, given that I typically don't care a...

Tudor’s F1 Season Begins with Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” SJX Watches
Tudor s F1 Season Begins Apr 30, 2026

Tudor’s F1 Season Begins with Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26”

Continuing with a practice that began last year, Tudor has announced a limited edition as this year’s Formula 1 season kicks off. As with last year’s edition, the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” is modelled on the livery of the racing car of Visa Cash App Racing Bulls (VCARB). It’s otherwise identical to last year’s model, which means it is lightweight, well priced, and equipped with the high-spec MT5813 movement. Initial thoughts The Carbon 26 is essentially last year’s watch with a new dial, but I like the new yellow and white livery than last year’s white and blue. The colours are subjective, but the value proposition of the watch remains objectively excellent (though the price has risen largely due to the strength of the Swiss franc). The Carbon 26 is still competitively priced next to its rivals. As an aside, I hope Tudor will eventually incorporate more design elements from its historical motor racing chronographs, like the Monte Carlo, into its modern-day F1 editions like the Carbon 26. The Carbon 26 is clearly a Black Bay – the “snowflake” hands are a giveaway – but the Black Bay is a dive watch rather than one for the road. Carbon inside and out The Carbon 26 gets its name from the carbon fibre composite case and bezel, which have a patterned surface typical of the material. The type of composite employed here is more subtle appearance-wise compared to other composites used in watchmaking, so at a distance the case appears a flat black. Thoug...

Business News: Watches And Wonders Attendance Climbs Despite Geo-Politics And Economic Challenges As Brands Make Case For Value Hodinkee
Ming Apr 30, 2026

Business News: Watches And Wonders Attendance Climbs Despite Geo-Politics And Economic Challenges As Brands Make Case For Value

The watches that prove commercial and collector successes emerging from Watches and Wonders 2026 will have climbed a wall of worry. There was plenty to fret over heading into the watch industry's largest and most important annual salon this year. The eruption of war in the Middle East challenged travel plans and clouded the outlook for visitors from the region and beyond. Indeed, sales have certainly been impacted in the Middle East, and the question remains how quickly stability might return.The existing bugbears of the watch sector – rising input costs from raw materials, including record gold values, ongoing U.S. tariffs, not to mention the continued strength of the Swiss franc, as well as years of retail price increases – remained omnipresent. All told, these factors could have set the stage for a subdued, cautious event. Instead, the industry converged in Geneva, striking an optimistic and inclusive tone where it worked hard to show it's been paying attention to the demands of clients and customers with new watches that drove home a theme of demonstrating value in often, but not always, familiar packages. With public-facing events including Montreaux Jazz concerts in the Geneva city center, Watches and Wonders emphasized its role as a cultural tent pole for the industry and the Swiss watchmaking region, aiming to be more open and welcoming. The new, more public-oriented strategy certainly paid off as attendance jumped to nearly 60,000 unique visitors, a record for...

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” Hodinkee
Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon Apr 30, 2026

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26”

What We Know Ahead of this weekend's Miami Grand Prix, Tudor has announced the Black Bay Chrono "Carbon 26," a follow-up to last year's Carbon 25. While Tudor's ties to motorsport date back to the late 1960s with the Tudor Watches Racing Team, its current partnership with the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls team began in 2024, and they have been quick to make the most of it, with two limited editions in two consecutive seasons. The Carbon 25 marked the first limited-edition release from that relationship, with the Carbon 26 continuing the same approach in 2026. At its core, the update centers on a revised color scheme reflecting the livery of the VCARB 03 car. The watch retains a 42mm carbon fiber case with a fixed tachymeter bezel, along with a titanium caseback, crown, and pushers with a black PVD finish. The dial remains "racing white," now with yellow accents and carbon fiber subdials. The carbon fiber case, introduced last year, carries over unchanged. It replaces the steel case used in standard Black Bay Chronographs, while keeping the same 42mm diameter, fixed tachymeter bezel, screw-down crown, chronograph pushers, and overall case profile. Inside is the Manufacture Chronograph Calibre MT5813, an automatic chronograph with a column wheel, vertical clutch, silicon balance spring, and a 70-hour power reserve. It is COSC-certified, and it also meets Tudor's more rigorous standards of -2/+4 seconds per day. The Black Bay Chrono "Carbon 26" is priced at $8,625, produced in a...

A Big Update for the Christopher Ward Sealander Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Sealander Apr 30, 2026

A Big Update for the Christopher Ward Sealander

With Christopher Ward, we spend a lot of time talking about the Loco and Bel Canto, and rightly so. Those are both watches that have radically reshaped how we think about the brand, and set expectations for new releases at an impossibly high level. But realistically, it’s the Sealander that is the defining watch in the Christopher Ward catalog. It’s existed for a long time and is almost a brand unto itself. But the core of the line has been relatively unchanged for several years at this point and was due for a refresh. That comes this week, as the brand has launched what they describe as a “comprehensive re-engineering” of the Sealander GMT and Sealander Automatic that includes both subtle aesthetic updates as well as significant mechanical improvements.  The Sealander GMT adds a 42mm case size to the existing lineup that includes 36mm and 39mm sizes. The case has retained its fluid, classic sports watch lines, but the bezel angle has been shifted to be less angled than previous iterations of the watch.  Dial options include white and sky blue in all three case sizes, with a pistachio option available only in 39mm, and a black dial available in 39mm and the new 42mm size. The dials are polished lacquer and now include longer indices and a GMT hand that has been redesigned to be more proportionate and is also fully lacquered. The “Sealander” wordmark also appears on the dial, at 6:00, for the first time. The Sealander GMT is powered by the Sellita SW330-2 cali...

Introducing – The New Bradley Taylor Ardea, With Retrograde Seconds Indication Monochrome
Ming talented watchmaker based Apr 30, 2026

Introducing – The New Bradley Taylor Ardea, With Retrograde Seconds Indication

Our search for the most intriguing artisanal, independent watchmakers takes us to the far corners of the world. While the majority is still in or around Switzerland, we regularly take virtual excursions to Japan, Scandinavia, the Netherlands, and beyond. Back in 2021, we introduced you to Bradley Taylor, an upcoming, talented watchmaker based in Vancouver, […]

Hot-Take: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon Apr 30, 2026

Hot-Take: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26”

Tudor is back with another motorsport-inspired chronograph, with the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” debuting as its latest limited edition tied to the 2026 Formula 1 season. If last year’s “Carbon 25” set the tone, this new version builds on that same idea with a few visual tweaks and the same lightweight construction. Once again, […] Visit Hot-Take: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” to read the full article.

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon Apr 30, 2026

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26”

Tudor is back with another motorsport-inspired chronograph, with the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” debuting as its latest limited edition tied to the 2026 Formula 1 season. If last year’s “Carbon 25” set the tone, this new version builds on that same idea with a few visual tweaks and the same lightweight construction. Once again, […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: A Big Year For Skeletonized And Openworked Watches Fratello
Apr 30, 2026

Fratello Talks: A Big Year For Skeletonized And Openworked Watches

Skeletonized watches and openworked dials seem to be everywhere this year. From subtle cutouts that reveal just a hint of mechanics to fully open displays that showcase the entire movement, brands across price segments are leaning into transparency. Whether driven by aesthetics, technical ambition, or simply a desire to stand out, it’s a trend that’s […] Visit Fratello Talks: A Big Year For Skeletonized And Openworked Watches to read the full article.

Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Gets A Tropical Overlay (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Gets Apr 29, 2026

Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Gets A Tropical Overlay (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Zenith adds another variation of its modern revival of the unique A384 chronograph to its catalog, with the Chronomaster Revival A384 Tropical. This is, at a high level, just a new dial that's been added to the collection, and one that's done in a familiar Zenith way at that. Here, the inspiration is very much around tropical dials, with a base dial in a softly grained white, contrasted by brown accents in the subdials and tachymeter scale. Zenith calls it a "chocolate panda" configuration, and I think that's a pretty apt name. Text on the white portion of the dial is printed in black, including the "El Primero" script under the Zenith logo, while printing on the brown portions of the dial, such as the tachymeter and sundial markings, is all done in white. The aged, tropical theme continues with lume on the applied markers and handset executed in Old Radium Super-LumiNova, which certainly complements the warmth of the overall look. A bright red chronograph seconds hand sits front and center, and a date window sits between the four and five o'clock hour markers. The dial sits in that distinctive A384 case, with a compact, angular tonneau silhouette measuring 37mm. Pump pushers and a Zenith star-signed crown sit on the right flank of the case. Finishing is interesting throughout the watch, with radial brushing on the front slab of the case, polished facets, and horizontal brushing on the sides. It's complemented by Zenith's revival of the Gay Frères ladd...

Introducing A New Independent Watchmaker In Town: Mathieu Cleguer And His Inspiration One Fratello
Apr 29, 2026

Introducing A New Independent Watchmaker In Town: Mathieu Cleguer And His Inspiration One

Even if this is the first time that the name “Cleguer” appears on a watch, founder Mathieu Cleguer is far from a newbie. The Breton watchmaker came through the ranks at several high-end independents, working on the technical teams. Now, though, he truly spreads his wings and releases his first creation, the Cleguer Inspiration One. […] Visit Introducing A New Independent Watchmaker In Town: Mathieu Cleguer And His Inspiration One to read the full article.

Hands-on – The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton 5840P Monochrome
Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Apr 29, 2026

Hands-on – The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton 5840P

When Patek Philippe introduced the Cubitus collection in 2024, it drew fierce scrutiny. A square-shaped, angular evolution of the Nautilus concept, it challenged expectations. Yet, over successive releases, from the time-and-date references to the instantaneous grand date 5822P and the more compact 7128 models, the collection has settled into its role as Patek Philippe‘s modern sporty-chic […]

Chopard Cleverly Expands The Alpine Eagle Collection Once More Fratello
Chopard Cleverly Expands Apr 29, 2026

Chopard Cleverly Expands The Alpine Eagle Collection Once More

Chopard had another wonderful Watches and Wonders this year. The brand once again displayed a unique range of traditionally styled and modern-looking new releases, all refined and well considered. On top of that, the calibers are always impressive, both technically and visually. It always makes exploring the new additions to the brand’s catalog a nice […] Visit Chopard Cleverly Expands The Alpine Eagle Collection Once More to read the full article.

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Honours the Power of Nature SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Honours Apr 29, 2026

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Honours the Power of Nature

As Watches & Wonders drew to a close, Patek Philippe opened its annual exhibition of Rare Handcrafts at its salon on Rue du Rhône. It was a peaceful escape from the hustle of the Palexpo, and the perfect setting to view several dozen pieces from the new collection, ranging from Dome Clocks to wristwatches and pocket watches. The exhibition is open to the public until May 9th. Attendance is free, but visitors must register in advance online. Dome Clocks Among the prevailing themes of this year’s collection, the power of nature featured prominently. The Dome Clock ref. 20202N-001 “Magma” is the perfect example. The organic composition is almost shocking in its simplicity and minimal palette of just five colours of transparent enamel — and just seven more used for miniature painting. The volcanic depiction is undeniably violent in a way that creates a pleasing tension with the controlled techniques employed to create it, including silver leaf paillonné and a needle technique for creating the lifelike look of the volcanic rock, outlined with more than 23 g of gold wire. Of course, fired enamel has a lot in common with magma. In short, this choice of molten medium contributes to the authenticity of the work. The glowing lava is mirrored on the dial with 12 large baguette-cut sapphire hour markers totaling about 3 cts. Like the other Dome Clocks featured, the Magma is powered by an electrically wound 17’’’ pocket watch movement that offers a look into the firm...

Cartier Highlights Some Luxurious Bracelets with their Watches & Wonders Releases Worn & Wound
Cartier Highlights Some Luxurious Bracelets Apr 28, 2026

Cartier Highlights Some Luxurious Bracelets with their Watches & Wonders Releases

The Cartier appointment at Watches & Wonders this year was, as always, a dizzying experience. The incredible breadth of the collection is unlike anything you’ll see at Palexpo during Watches & Wonders week, and it always amazes me how freely these incredibly valuable, intricate creations are freely passed around a table of watch media types to handle, photograph, and try on. It would be absolutely impossible to run down everything we were shown in our meeting, but I keep coming back to a selection of releases that zero in on Cartier’s unique bracelet making capabilities.  This is not something I normally expect from Cartier, but maybe I should. I think for the most part we recognize Cartier as masters of design and shape – there have been so many great case designs over the brand’s history it’s impossible to recount them all here. Some have become genuinely iconic and some have been a bit lost to history, but their ingenuity and creativity is second to none and they have the reputation they deserve as a design first brand for good reason.  In our mind’s eye, collectively, we typically see these watches on straps. But for certain references a bracelet is key to understanding not just the visual design language, but in how these watches wear. Because a great bracelet doesn’t complete the look of a watch, it makes or breaks the experience of having it on your wrist, and can take a watch from being a beautiful design object to something you’d actually want to...

RJ’s Best 5 Watches From Watches And Wonders 2026 Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre as well as Apr 28, 2026

RJ’s Best 5 Watches From Watches And Wonders 2026

Another Watches and Wonders in the books. The first two editions were online only, but since 2022, I’ve been attending them all with pleasure. Watches and Wonders 2026 had some wonderful releases in store, and today, I’ll share my favorites from A. Lange & Söhne, Chopard, Piaget, Rolex, and Jaeger-LeCoultre, as well as a few […] Visit RJ’s Best 5 Watches From Watches And Wonders 2026 to read the full article.

Introducing – The Farer Pilot Collection Series II, now in Titanium Monochrome
Farer Pilot Collection Series II Apr 28, 2026

Introducing – The Farer Pilot Collection Series II, now in Titanium

Cushion cases, GMTs, three-handers, divers… British independent watchmaker Farer is doing a bit of everything. The brand also likes to revisit its collections, as seen with the updated field watches in 2024. After those military-inspired pieces, it was only a matter of time before Farer returned to its pilot watches, first introduced in 2020. Their […]

Hands-on – The Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture, Reworked Monochrome
Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture Reworked When Apr 28, 2026

Hands-on – The Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture, Reworked

When it launched in 2012, Frederique Constant’s Worldtimer Manufacture made waves in the watch world. A complication usually found in far pricier watches, it delivered in-house world time functionality with an “accessible luxury” price tag. Not content to rest on its laurels, FC unveiled a new and improved Worldtimer at Watches & Wonders this year […]

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon à Stratosphère SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon à Stratosphère Apr 28, 2026

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon à Stratosphère

A tourbillon within a tourbillon, itself within yet another tourbillon. The Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon à Stratosphère is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s sixth-generation multi-axis tourbillon, 22 years after the first Gyrotourbillon launched in 2004. The revised tourbillon architecture now covers close to 100% of possible positions in space to dilute the effects of gravity across nearly all possible orientations. But is it a genuine precision instrument, or an exploration of the limits of contemporary mechanics? Evolution or revolution? The calibre 178 that powers the Stratosphère builds on more than two decades of research into multi-axis tourbillons, during which Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has explored variables such as axis multiplication, different hairspring geometries, miniaturisation, and new forms of energy management. This logical evolution of the Gyrotourbillon concept remained theoretical until recently. “Its realisation has only been possible thanks to the current maturity of the Manufacture’s expertise and technologies – it would have been difficult to envisage just a few years ago,” notes Takahiro Hamaguchi, Product & Innovation Director at JLC. This capability also stems from the brand’s internal structure, which enables the conception and production of a movement from scratch, and is reflected in the new Hybris Inventiva line, which will grow into a showcase of watches that isolate a single innovative complication developed through multi-year inte...