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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Introducing the Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith SJX Watches
Ming Sep 2, 2019

Introducing the Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith

Ming made its debut with the affordable and well received 17.01 – which cost only US$900 – later revived as the 17.03 for the brand’s anniversary. Both models were limited editions, but popular enough that Ming has just unveiled the 17.06, which is essentially an improved version of the 17.01. The basics like the case size and movement are the same, but several details have been upgraded. To be produced in limited numbers each year, the 17.06 retains the styling of the original model, but incorporates subtle design tweaks as well as more substantial construction changes. The 17.06 retains the raised, luminous hour track that’s a Ming signature The bezel, for instance, is now secured by screws from inside the case, making removal for polishing easier. And the hands also sit closer to the crystal. Notably, the 17.06 is the first serially produced Ming wristwatch to have a stainless steel case. According to the brand, this resulted from the steel prototypes of the 17.06 being particularly well-liked by the brand’s founders. The 17.06 is available in two guises, each priced at slightly more than the original 17.01. Both are powered by an ETA 2824-2 “top grade” that’s regulated in five positions. The 17.06 Copper has a copper-tone dial with an engraved motif, matched with a case with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. It’ll be limited to 300 pieces a year. The 17.06 Monolith is all black – the dial is matte black while the case is sandblasted...

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light SJX Watches
Richard Mille Aug 27, 2019

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light

Omega’s latest debut is a surprising one, an incredibly light wristwatch that is also incredibly expensive – traditionally territory held by brands like Richard Mille. Weighing just 55g, or about 10 sheets of A4 printer paper, the Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light is made almost entirely of titanium, right down to the bridges and plate of the movement. And it retails for US$48,600. Developed in collaboration with Omega ambassador Rory McIlroy, a four-time majors champion and former world number one, the Aqua Terra Ultra Light is ostensibly conceived to be worn by athletes during competitions. A new(ish) alloy The case is 41mm but made from what Omega calls Gamma Titanium, which is actually titanium aluminide (TiAl), a relatively new titanium alloy that’s prized for its hardness and corrosion-resistance, even at high temperatures. That’s why it’s used for the blades of jet engines, amongst other things. Because the watch is meant to be worn by sportsmen, the crown is recessed and telescopic. It sits almost flush with the case when not in use, but a gentle push pops it out for winding and setting. And the dial is also titanium, but fashioned from a more common grade 5 alloy. It’s is finished with the signature horizontal fluting of the Aqua Terra range. The first titanium movement More unusually, the cal. 8928 Ti inside is also made mostly of titanium. The bridges and base plate are made of ceramised titanium, which is titanium coated with ceramic. The movem...

INTRODUCING: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date limited edition Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date limited edition Aug 24, 2019

INTRODUCING: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date limited edition

The Polaris collection was launched by Jaeger-LeCoultre last year to pay tribute to the dive watches produced by the brand in the ’60s and ’70s. Instantly recognisable with the super-compressor style case and internal bezel, the Polaris has been given a new look in the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date. What makes this new edition different can … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

ANNOUNCING: Complete the Time+Tide 2019 Reader Survey, have a chance at winning a TAG Heuer Autavia Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Autavia Welcome Aug 22, 2019

ANNOUNCING: Complete the Time+Tide 2019 Reader Survey, have a chance at winning a TAG Heuer Autavia

Welcome to the Time+Tide 2019 Reader Survey! That time when we put some hard-hitting questions into a survey program, work some internet magic and set it free, for all you good people out there to answer. One lucky Australian survey respondent will win a TAG Heuer Autavia chronograph for their troubles. Take the survey now … ContinuedThe post ANNOUNCING: Complete the Time+Tide 2019 Reader Survey, have a chance at winning a TAG Heuer Autavia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Restoring and Recasing a Vintage Patek Philippe Movement SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Movement Aug 21, 2019

In-Depth: Restoring and Recasing a Vintage Patek Philippe Movement

In this article we will take a look at a special watch produced for a client in Singapore, which also happened to be a way to give new life to a loose movement that had long lost its case. Although this watch was recently finished, the project actually started many years ago. When searching for interesting movements to restore I came across a vintage Patek Philippe movement in Australia. It was probably produced between 1905 and 1910 for a pendant watch. I liked the style, shape and size; it reminded me a lot of the great pocket watches Patek Philippe used to do, but in wristwatch size. I thought it could one day make a nice wristwatch for someone appreciates its good old-fashioned quality. But the movement was missing the case – probably melted down in the past for the scrap value – while the dial and hands were beyond repair. So a potential customer would have to design those parts from scratch. Because the movement was in relatively bad shape and not running, I could even afford to buy it before finding a potential client. The beautifully classical movement looking for a home But several years later, a client came along. It was a husband and wife who had previously ordered another watch, a pocket watch conversion with an old Moser movement in a hand-made silver case with a sapphire dial featuring gold indexes and hand-made hands. The pocket watch was commissioned by the wife both as a wedding anniversary gift for the husband and as an heirloom to be ...

“The watch that started it all for me” – Jean-Paul’s Breitling Transocean Time+Tide
Breitling Transocean There’s always one Aug 20, 2019

“The watch that started it all for me” – Jean-Paul’s Breitling Transocean

There’s always one that started it all. The first taste that starts the passion. Like the first dunk that lit the flame in Jordan’s heart. The first moment Phelps touched the end of a pool and knew he loved to win. Or the first piece in your collection that opened your eyes to the variety … ContinuedThe post “The watch that started it all for me” – Jean-Paul’s Breitling Transocean appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exploring the dark side with the Seiko Prospex LX Black editions Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex LX Black editions Aug 19, 2019

Exploring the dark side with the Seiko Prospex LX Black editions

In case you’re not familiar with Seiko’s Prospex line, it’s a venerable series of ‘professional specification’ watches that are made with a purpose. It’s a long-running series full of iconic divers with colourful names like the Turtle and the Tuna Can. Baselworld 2019 bore witness to what is perhaps the boldest iteration of the collection yet … ContinuedThe post Exploring the dark side with the Seiko Prospex LX Black editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Where rubber hits the road – 5 high-end rubber straps Time+Tide
Aug 19, 2019

Where rubber hits the road – 5 high-end rubber straps

There’s a lot to like about a rubber strap - especially if you live somewhere hot, wet or humid. The natural material is exceptionally hard-wearing, and comfortable to boot. The only issue is that in the past there’s been a perception that rubber is a strictly utilitarian affair and, as such, quality is of a … ContinuedThe post Where rubber hits the road – 5 high-end rubber straps appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Solid value, awesome lume – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II Time+Tide
Aug 17, 2019

Solid value, awesome lume – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II

Editor’s note: These days, Ball is a bit of a niche brand, but even though they’re not front of mind, they’re in no danger of fading away, thanks to their exceptional lume. Cam has a look at one of their modern divers, the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II. Read on …  The watch industry … ContinuedThe post Solid value, awesome lume – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds in black Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Aug 16, 2019

HANDS-ON: The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds in black

A. Lange & Söhne’s Richard Lange Jumping Seconds is a real insider watch. From the dial it looks much like many other Lange watches, but really, it’s something quite special. It’s a watch that’s been around since 2016, but this year we were treated to a chic new version, in white gold with a black … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds in black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 2 – the Spitfire collection Time+Tide
Casio nal silver-dialled offering Aug 15, 2019

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 2 – the Spitfire collection

Following on from last week’s look at the Top Gun collection, Andrew sets his sights on the heritage-inspired Spitfire collection. This year saw the Spitfire step up its status from an occasional silver-dialled offering to a fully formed collection in its own right. Gone are the silver dials of the past, replaced with either handsome … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 2 – the Spitfire collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EVENT: Tourbillon time with TAG Heuer in Melbourne Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aug 15, 2019

EVENT: Tourbillon time with TAG Heuer in Melbourne

TAG Heuer is a brand that has always sat fondly in the hearts of Australians, with shared values of an active lifestyle spent outdoors. This week we were lucky enough to celebrate the launch of TAG Heuer’s latest novelties, including the Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph and the exciting Autavia Isograph. Both releases are … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Tourbillon time with TAG Heuer in Melbourne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vintage inspiration in a modern package – the Rado Captain Cook 45mm Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook 45mm Editor’s Aug 13, 2019

Vintage inspiration in a modern package – the Rado Captain Cook 45mm

Editor’s note: Rado’s star is firmly in ascendance these days, and that’s thanks to watches like their popular Captain Cook Reissue. And while we’ve got a whole lot of love for the smaller versions, sometimes - no matter what people say - size does matter. So, how about 45mm of Rado Captain Cook goodness?  Rado’s … ContinuedThe post Vintage inspiration in a modern package – the Rado Captain Cook 45mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Does the collectible watch change over time? Time+Tide
Aug 13, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Does the collectible watch change over time?

If you’ve been reading what I’ve been reading over the last couple of weeks, you’ll have noticed I’m particularly interested in how the primary and secondary watch markets interact with each other, and what that looks like in specific contexts like an auction room. All that leads to is a question: does the collectible watch … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Does the collectible watch change over time? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Should you wear a watch when exercising? Time+Tide
Aug 2, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Should you wear a watch when exercising?

If you love watches, you probably want to wear them all the time. The past CEO of The Swatch Group Nicolas Hayek was famous for wearing half-a-dozen watches at one time, and even if you aren’t quite that eccentric, you might still feel like you’re missing something when you don’t wear a watch. But this … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Should you wear a watch when exercising? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why a man of style loves the Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time Time+Tide
Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time Jul 22, 2019

Why a man of style loves the Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time

Editor’s note: This is a throwback to the time we chatted to one of the best-looking blokes in Melbourne about his (then) new Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time. As Sam predicted, he didn’t think this would be a watch that would look dated as the years passed, and he was right - the classic proportions, the … ContinuedThe post Why a man of style loves the Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Rolex Daytona Orange Sapphires Ref. 116578SACO SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton and Gucci Jul 21, 2019

Hands-On: Rolex Daytona Orange Sapphires Ref. 116578SACO

Those unfamiliar with the world of ultra-bling Rolex watches must wonder – who are they catered to? Dictators? Drug dealers? Nightclub owners? Instagram influencers? But the answer is actually something more common. All of us inevitably know someone like this: the middle-aged man usually in athletic wear by Louis Vuitton and Gucci, and whose idea of formal wear is an embroidered velvet suit from Dolce & Gabbana that resembles curtains from a chateau. He’ll probably drive a super car that is “stickered”, either the whole car wrapped in a matte, metallic finish, or worse, “stickered” with flames and stripes on the sides. Then this gentleman will probably be wearing a watch like this. And if he isn’t, he will really want one. It’s easy to poke fun but the nattily dressed gent is enjoying himself and who can fault that? And so it is with this watch, which has certain, look-at-me appeal that is just calling out to be enjoyed. This is the new and uncommon Daytona ref. 116578SACO with an orange sapphire-set bezel. Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116578SACO Each year Rolex unveils a handful of bejewelled watches that are shown to the press and public at Baselworld – last year’s was the Daytona “rainbow” and this year had the Day-Date “rainbow” – while also releasing a smaller number of gem-set models on the quiet, which are usually only shown to retailers. This year’s hush-hush launches included the GMT-Master II “SARU” in Everose gold, but als...

EVENT: Celebrating the slender wonders of Piaget in Melbourne Time+Tide
Piaget Jul 18, 2019

EVENT: Celebrating the slender wonders of Piaget in Melbourne

Piaget is a brand that exudes class, and has style to spare. This was something that Time+Tide and our guests got an up-close lesson in on Wednesday night, when the brand showcased their ultra-thin masterpieces for us.  For watches that look so slight, the Piaget Altiplano packs a punch - I had the pleasure of … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Celebrating the slender wonders of Piaget in Melbourne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: The deconstructed Rolex Submariner Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner Editor’s note People Jul 18, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The deconstructed Rolex Submariner

Editor’s note: People love seeing the insides of a Rolex. Perhaps it’s because of their popularity or perhaps it’s the fact that their insides are always hidden behind a solid caseback. Whatever the reason, people love the chance to get a glimpse at these industrially impressive machines. So, here’s another look at that time Peter … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The deconstructed Rolex Submariner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Sotheby’s Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Auction SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Auction Taking Jul 17, 2019

Highlights: Sotheby’s Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Auction

Taking place on July 19, Sotheby’s thematic auction to mark the 1969 Moon landing – Omega Speedmaster: To the Moon and Back, Celebrating 50 years since Apollo 11 – is all about the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, plus a handful of watch accessories and lunar paraphernalia. The auction is 50 lots, covering a variety of Speedmaster models, starting from the very affordable to “grail” references like the ref. 2915-1 and “Alaska III”  prototype. For those interesting in a lot-by-lot opinion of the sale, check out the article written by Speedmaster enthusiast William Roberts over at speedmaster101.com. Here’s a look at a couple of highlights. Lot 10 – Speedmaster ref. 2915-1 The ref. 2915-1 is substantially different from the later Moonwatches but is the one that started it all, being the very first reference of the Speedmaster ever. Its particular combination of features – steel bezel, “broad arrow” hands, straight lugs – give it a distinct and appealing look compared to the later Speedmasters. This particular appears correct, albeit showing its age. The wear seems pretty even throughout, from the case to dial to back, and is detailed in Sotheby’s condition report. According to the extract, it was delivered to Mexico in 1958, a year after the model was introduced. With one of the best examples of the ref. 2915-1 having sold for just over US$400,000 at Phillips last year, the estimate for this well-worn example is US$150,000-200,000. Lot 13 ...