Deployant
Review: Meditations on the Credor Fugaku Tourbillon
Review: Credor Fugaku Tourbillon. With much gnashing of teeth and rending of garments, we bring you the full hands-on review.
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The 1904 Cartier watch designed for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.
Louis Cartier's 1917 rectangular design, inspired by the Renault FT tank.
Flat triangular blade hands without a central ridge. Cartier Tank, Santos, IWC Mark XI / Mark XX classical-dress and military signature.
Geneva luxury holding group founded 1988 by Johann Rupert. Owns Cartier, IWC, JLC, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron, Panerai, Piaget. Largest haute-horlogerie portfolio in the industry.
Deployant
Review: Credor Fugaku Tourbillon. With much gnashing of teeth and rending of garments, we bring you the full hands-on review.
Deployant
Review: Credor Eichi II. A hands-on analytical review of the elusive watch from Seiko's Micro Artisan Studios. High res pics, comparisons, specs and price.
Deployant
Credor Spring Drive Minute Repeater: The Japanese Strike Back striking watches, decimal repeater
Deployant
I have written and photographed the amazing Credor Eichi before. See this post for the details. And I still hold this wonderful watch with the highest regard, this is the first I have encountered this piece on the wrist of an owner. Beautiful, in a zen like way. Quality of this photograph leaves much toRead More
Deployant
The Japanese have a passion, when they often do, and will be prepared to be totally obsessed and fully committed to the task. Such is the wonderful story behind the extreme high end Credor series by Seiko. As many of us know, Seiko makes many low end watches…chances are, most of us have owned one,Read More
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Revolution
Revolution
Monochrome
Angelus is a historical Swiss watch brand founded in 1891 in Le Locle by Albert and Gustav Stolz, known for technically ambitious and award-winning chronographs, multi-complication watches and even chiming models. After a long period of dormancy following the quartz crisis, the brand was revived in 2011. Tapping into its rich archive, Angelus has gathered […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The IYKYK Japanese brand teases a trioMore
Worn & Wound
As a new year begins, it’s always fun to think about which brands are poised to do something meaningful over the next 12 months. Obviously, every brand starts with high hopes and great intentions, but inevitably there are just a few who really become conversation drivers in the industry. It can be fun to speculate who is in a good position to do that. Lots of time, it will be a brand in the midst of a big anniversary celebration (Vacheron Constantin and Breguet in 2025 were great examples of this phenomenon). I’d like to posit that another way a brand can make a big splash is by simply having a presence at Watches & Wonders in the spring – any brand making their first appearance at the show is going to have a great deal of attention thrust upon them. This year, Audemars Piguet makes their first appearance at the show, and of course everyone will be keeping an eye out. But everyone’s always keeping an eye out for AP. I’m more interested in another brand coming to the Palexpo for the first time: Credor. Credor of course is part of the Seiko family, and can be thought of as the high end, artistic, and craft forward expression of the watchmaking family. Credor’s watches are uncompromising and beautiful, but they are wildly underseen. They are rare, of course, and tough to find outside of Japan (similar to Grand Seiko a decade ago) but they also require a bit of a learning curve in how collectors and enthusiasts understand what the brand is all about. And that’s...
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Revolution
Hodinkee
Bezel's report shows that fake or incorrect timepieces still proliferate across a variety of brands.
Hodinkee
After Kissling took the helm in October 2024, there seems to be a new spark at Breguet. We look at what lies ahead for the man and the brand.
Monochrome
Over the past few years, the name Gérald Genta has become one of the most famous in the watch industry. There are multiple reasons for this. First, thanks to the work done by Evelyne and Alexia Genta (respectively his wife and daughter), with the Gerald Genta Heritage Association. Second, the so-called “Picasso of Watches” was […]
Worn & Wound
James Cox (c.1723-1800) was a British jeweler, goldsmith and entrepreneur and the proprietor of Cox’s Museum. Cox produced lavishly ornamented automata for trade with the Far East, first with India and then with China, where the reception of his ‘toys’ or ‘sing-songs’, as the Chinese are believed to have called them, was at first a huge success. Cox was an extraordinary gentleman living in 18th century London. This was a time of great opulence with the wealthiest showing their status through objects they commissioned and owned. Cox was a clockmaker, jeweler, and entrepreneur known for creating elaborate and decorative timepieces, automata, and mechanical curiosities. He gained fame for his luxury goods, which were highly sought after by the elite. Cox’s work blended mechanical innovation with exquisite craftsmanship, producing items that were not just functional but also ornamental and artistic. Cox’s career as a jeweler began as early as 1751, and his automata were designed by leading artists including Johann Zoffany and Joseph Nollekens. In the 1760s, John Joseph Merlin became his apprentice. Though he declared himself a goldsmith, he employed several jewelers and manufacturers who would have done much of the work. Jewel cabinet with watch signed James Cox, c.1765-70. Image courtesy of the Met Museum This cabinet is an excellent example of an exquisite item made by Cox and bearing his signature. On its doors are enameled personifications of Winter and S...
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SJX Watches
Drawn from a Russian fairy tale about a bun coming to life, the Kolobok 2 arrives a year after Konstantin Chaykin revealed the original Kolobok. Like its predecessors in the Wristmon collection, this features a dial inspired by the titular character’s face. But the Kolobok 2 marks a departure from the first version in two notable ways: it is now a regular production watch rather than a limited edition, and it features a La Joux-Perret base movement instead of an ETA. Initial thoughts The Kolobok 2 is the latest of many Wristmon models, arguably too many to date. However, the fact that this is a regular production model, as opposed to a limited edition, is a positive development since it indicates the brand is leaving behind the multiple-edition approach. That aside, the watch itself is an upgrade over earlier versions. Although the new Kolobok 2 has the same simple functions arranged as a face, it is powered by a new movement based on the La Joux-Perret G200, replacing the modified ETA 2892-A2 used in preceding entry-level Wristmon models. This calibre is a step forward for the Wristmon model. Amongst other things that put it ahead of the ETA 2892, the G200 sports a a full balance bridge with a free-sprung balance. Another wristmon The Kolobok 2 retains the same dimensions and technical specifications as its predecessors, measuring 40 mm in diameter and 12.2 mm in thickness. As with all Wristmons, it features a notched bezel with 12 screws and a case that’s predominan...
Revolution
Monochrome
It is widely known that the watch market, and most luxury markers for that matter, are facing a relatively difficult situation. According to Bain & Company Luxury Study, the global personal luxury goods market is likely to dip by 2% in 2024 – not a dramatic situation, but not a positive one nevertheless. While jewellery was […]
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe had an active 2024, not just because of the launch of the ref. 5330G World Time with Date, a massive collection of Rare Handcrafts, and of course the Cubitus. But equally notable was the announcement of updates to the Patek Philippe Seal. Buried on the last page of its 2024 Watches & Wonders brochure was some fine print about some updates to the brand’s internal certification that superseded the longstanding Poinçon de Genève in 2009. The updates applied to two things that watch enthusiasts love to argue about: water resistance and rate accuracy. Officially rated to 30 m and -1/+2 seconds a day Initial thoughts Water resistance is never far from the minds of watch geeks, so it’s no surprise that this is dominated the discourse when the announcement was made earlier in the year; the idea of a Nautilus rated to just 30 m was concerning to many. Apparently even the fact that the watch itself was unchanged did little to quiet the nerves. Perhaps because people enjoy the opportunity to punch up, far more attention was paid to the issue of water resistance than the meaningful updates made to timekeeping testing and certification, which cement Patek Philippe’s position as the leader in high-end mechanical timekeeping at scale. The cal. 240 PS CI J LU of the Cubitus ref. 5822P also features a Spiromax hairspring, clearly visible Thirty meters But let’s get water resistance out of the way. Patek Philippe now guarantees all of its water-resistant watches to ...
Hodinkee
Classically inspired but challenging convention, the asymmetrical Mirage rejects the traditional "rules" of watchmaking.
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Quill & Pad
Quentin R. Bufogle has always been a Swiss watch snob. He knows Grand Seiko turns out some truly excellent timepieces. But for all of impeccable engineering, and craftsmanship, for this watch enthusiast, the brand has always lacked something in spirit. Until he discovered the Kumakawa Worldtimer GMT Limited Edition.
Revolution
Hodinkee
We talked to Evelyne Genta to learn why the Locomotive – and Seiko – were so important to the late designer.
Monochrome
Gerald Genta is surely mostly known for his work with Audemars Piguet (1972, Royal Oak), Patek Philippe (Nautilus, 1976) or his own bold and original creations. There is, however, much more to the man than just these two icons of the luxury sports watch category (think Universal Geneve Polerouter, Omega Constellation or Rolex King Midas). […]
Worn & Wound
More than ever, being engaged in the watch community on social media means logging hours on TikTok. For years, the watch world has been building an impressive social infrastructure on Instagram, with collectors, brands, and dealers of all kinds finding a home on what is inarguably a platform that has reached maturity (even if not all of its users have). TikTok, by comparison, is a toddler, and to some of us who are dyed in the wool IG users, it’s every bit as inscrutable. But there’s no denying that the watch community, particularly new and younger watch collectors, are finding their way through the hobby on TikTok in much the same way that an older generation was educated on Instagram. Something that the two platforms have in common is that both are personality driven, and if you let the algorithm on each app do its thing, eventually you’re going to come across creators who you personally identify with and gravitate towards. Ben Cook, a 26 year old New York City based TikTok and Instagram creator has been growing his audience for nearly two years and in a relatively short period of time has already established a niche as an authentic voice and a supporter of affordable and approachable watches. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Ben’s Watches (@benswatches) “I’m an entrepreneur at the end of the day,” Ben told me in a recent interview. He started making watch focused TikTok content in May of 2022 at the suggestion of coworkers, and the accou...
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