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Fratello
Pilot’s watches have a habit of getting carried away with themselves. Some lean so hard into the heritage side that they end up feeling more like costume pieces than modern watches. I don’t know about you, but I’m not interested in cosplaying as a WWII fighter pilot. Others go big for the sake of it, […] Visit How HTD’s New Phantom Finally Keeps The Pilot Watch Formula In Check to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
I’ve been doing this long enough that by now I probably should have reviewed a Monta. For whatever reason, I just haven’t had the chance. It’s kind of like living in Cooperstown and never going to the Baseball Hall of Fame. Inexplicable. Of course, I’ve handled plenty of Montas over the years. They’ve been a presence at Windup Watch Fairs, and I’ve known many, many collectors who have owned Monta watches of various stripes, and I’ve tried them on and taken the requisite wrist shots at meetups and events through the years. This time around, with the release of the new Monta Noble 40, I was finally able to spend some real time with a Monta. Like all Monta watches it’s technically excellent, but the updates make it feel a little less special than its predecessor. The Noble, along with the Triumph, is the most stripped down watch in the Monta collection. It’s not a big burly tool watch, and it doesn’t have a complication beyond the date at 6:00. It’s a bit of a cliche, but you could say that it boils down Monta to its essence, which is a really solid, value oriented, everyday watch with impeccable finishing for the price. I’ll probably keep coming back to the finishing, because it’s really the strength of all Monta watches that I’ve had a chance to handle, and that’s been the case consistently since the brand was founded. They just have a very good idea of what they’re after in terms of how their cases and bracelets should look and feel, and...
Fratello
Honestly, I usually take car-watch collaborations with a pinch of salt. Too often, they feel like the easy and somewhat lazy option. Add a logo, pull in a color, mention “performance” a few times, and somehow, that’s meant to be a job well done. While that may be enough for the marketing side of things, […] Visit The New Bianchet UltraFino Maserati - One Of The Better Car-Watch Collaborations I’ve Seen In A While to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
I’d like to think I am a bit of a movement nerd. Not in the sense of knowing all of the technical attributes (actually, I wish I knew more there), but rather about what movements are on the market from the major suppliers. Hand me a watch, even with a complication, and I can probably tell you what movement it has in a matter of seconds (assuming it’s mechanical) by the positioning of the hands, complications, rotor bearing, etc. So, last fall, when I was handed a prototype of a new chronograph by Wolbrook and, upon seeing the dial, realized I had no idea what movement it had, my interest was piqued. The watch was the Wolbrook Jetflyer, which I have since had the opportunity to spend more time with. An extension of the French brand’s proven line of tool dive watches based on vintage models, the Jetflyer is their first foray into mechanical chronographs. As the name suggests, the Jetflyer is not meant as a “dive” chronograph, but rather as a pilot’s, though that’s largely semantics, as there are a lot of overlaps in design language (and the WR is 100m). I’ll get back to the particulars of the design, because what really stands out is the movement. $845 Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber Case Stainless Steel Movement Jeambrun PS 6402 Dial Mattte Black Lume X1 Super-Luminova Lens Domed Sapphire Strap Leather or Bracelet Water Resistance 100m Dimensions 38 x 46mm Thickness 14.3mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw-d...
SJX Watches
Watches & Wonders is less than a month away, so for episode 32 of the SJX Podcast we’re talking about what we’d want to see from some of the major brands like Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko, and Tudor. It’s always difficult to make predictions, and the best releases from every year are usually a surprise, but Andrew put together a few picks that we believe would be crowd-pleasers, were they to be released. SJX and Brandon also discuss the latest minute repeater from Girard-Perregaux, and SJX’s own sold-out collaboration with Habring²: the Chrono-Felix Medicus chronograph. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
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Fratello
Girard-Perregaux isn’t waiting around for us to visit the upcoming April festivities in Geneva to release new watches. Instead, the legendary brand is getting a jump on the competition with an incredible introduction. Today, we look at an all-new in-house creation, the Minute Repeater Flying Bridges. Girard-Perregaux is one of those names that will always […] Visit Girard-Perregaux’s Latest Masterpiece: The Minute Repeater Flying Bridges to read the full article.
Monochrome
If you think about Volvo estate cars, you probably will think about those large, boxy ones from the 1980s and 1990s. While very practical, they weren’t necessarily the most sexy cars, apart from a few special ones like the 850 T5R. But there was a time when Volvo made an estate car that was gracious, […]
Worn & Wound
It’s a fair assumption that if you’re the kind of enthusiast that’s interested in independent watchmaking, the allure of something a little different isn’t lost on you. The independent watch space is a wildly diverse one that’s full of outsider artisans, but even in a field of outsiders, English watchmaker James Lamb is something of an anomaly. Lamb’s watches genuinely don’t look like anything else on the market. While they’re all time-only affairs, they feature an offset sub-dial layout that frees up the outer portion of the dial to be used as a decorative space. With his Origin Series, Lamb applies strikingly colorful enamel work to the outer dial section. With his latest release, the Linea Edition, Lamb has collaborated with one of the UK’s most respected ornamental engravers, Joanne Ryall, to create a line of watches with beautifully hand-engraved titanium and gold outer dials. While the dials are showstopping displays of handcraft, Lamb’s watches also feature completely handmade cases (read: no CNC machines used), which he crafts out of Argentium silver. Lamb’s case designs are robust and understated; they do a fabulous job of grounding the watch’s bold dial designs, but the craftsmanship that goes into them is something serious horology enthusiasts fawn over. For Lamb, a self-proclaimed watch industry isolationist, doing things like crafting his cases entirely by hand is kind of the whole point of making watches. Lamb deliberately avoids...
Worn & Wound
If you had told me a few years ago that much of what I’d be doing at Worn & Wound in terms of new release coverage would be writing about mother of pearl and stone dial executions like a beat reporter at small town paper assigned to the high school basketball team, I probably would not have believed it. But here we are, multiple years into a trend that does not really seem to be letting up. It started with a resurfacing of high end vintage watches with exotic stone dials, moved to bigger brands capitalizing on the hype, shifted to smaller makers and microbrands offering impossibly affordable options, and now we’re back at the high end, and seeing brands looking for new ways to combine stones and materials in novel ways. Last week, Czapek announced a pair of watches that make particularly interesting use of mother of pearl. The Antarctique S Ice Cloud is, at a glance, simply an Antarctique with a mother of pearl dial. But there’s some special artisanal work that has gone into the making of this particular dial, which has been conceived as a “poetic interpretation of cloud formations in an icy landscape.” The dial is constructed from a piece of white mother of pearl that is cut to just 0.2mm thick – the height of two sheets of paper, according to Czapek. A varnish is then applied to the underside of the mother of pearl surface using a horsehair brush, which creates a cloudlike pattern that is unique to each dial. The varnish itself is tinted blue, and the art...
SJX Watches
Citizen, one of the world’ largest watchmakers by numbers, teams up with niche Parisian watch customizer Romaric André for a surprisingly good collaboration with the Citizen Tsuyosa seconde/seconde/. Creative, quirky, and very affordable, the Tsuyosa collaboration depicts the aftermath of the minutes hand slicing through the applied hour markers. And it does it quite well: the artfully positioned hour markers really do look like they have been cut in half. Initial Thoughts Citizen’s latest Tsuyosa is interesting, clever, and affordable. In fact, it is only around US$20 more expensive than the entry level Tsuyosa, making it something of a no-brainer for someone who wants a well-priced watch with a sense of humour. Like Seiko’s “5KX”, the Tsuyosa is an ideal platform for this project, as the model has intrinsic appeal as an integrated bracelet sports-adjacent watch, while also being affordable enough to be an impulse buy based on a cool dial. Nitpickers might point out that a pixellated sword isn’t sharp enough. The pixel art “sword” minute hand may be seconde/seconde/’s best known motif, but it also requires suspension of belief that the hour markers have been cleaved in twain by the minutes hand. Which is unfortunate, as the effect is otherwise so well executed. Of course, without the 8-bit katana it wouldn’t be immediately recognisable as a seconde/seconde/ project, but that is true of many of the best Mr André’s best works, such as the Uncatchable...
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Teddy Baldassarre
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Worn & Wound
One thing I loved about graduating from a relatively small district in rural Pennsylvania is that it wasn’t necessarily like the high school experiences I saw reflected in television. Due to the general population at my school never hitting above 200 students, cliques were permeable and caste systems were divided more by how often you had class with the same people versus, say, any general interests. While we are led to believe that high school is a microcosm of real life, and that people can generally be categorized by such surface-level things like hobbies or intelligence, I think my upbringing has allowed for me to see that one thing can contain multitudes. Because of this, I’d hate to box the new Vacheron Constantin addition to their Overseas Collection, a titanium tourbillon model, into one category or the other. It’s sporty and technical – or, if we’re keeping with the high school theme– a jock and a geek. Now that I’ve beaten that analogy to death, we can go onto the specifics of this latest reference from the Swiss watch brand. From a design standpoint, it has all the hallmarks of Vacheron Constantin design language: clean lines, a classic silhouette, and a balance of keeping it traditional without being boring. Even so, the design’s deep red sunburst dial, visible tourbillon movement, and use of titanium add just enough of an update to the collection to be notable. Of course, these aren’t all for aesthetiques. The use of Grade 5 titanium and an u...
Monochrome
Style, preferably paired with a good dose of proverbial substance, doens’t have to cost an arm and a leg. Sure, we can all get head-over-heels with ultra-complex and astronomically priced watches, but that’s not where the majority of collectors and enthusiasts shop. So, for those looking for a stylish yet affordable sporty-chic option in what […]
Worn & Wound
There’s a “don’t change it if it ain’t broke” mentality in Swiss watchmaking. Progress is slow, and it often seems that there’s a general distrust of change. An example of this is in the mechanical movements that power most of our watches. Chances are, you have at least one watch with an ETA 2824 or a movement based on the 2824 in your collection. If you’re like me, you have several. For Swiss-made watches of a certain price point, they are the standard. They are “workhorses” that, while not the most feature-rich, offer reliability and serviceability. And part of the reason for that is that the design has been around, largely unchanged, since the 1970s (the 2824-2, which is the current standard, was released in the 80s). That is, until 2013, when ETA launched 80-hour movements based on the 2824-2. First debuted in a Tissot as the Powermatic 80, ETA nearly doubled the 2824’s power reserve by slowing the escapement’s frequency from 28,800bph to 21,600bph, introducing synthetic components, and increasing the mainspring’s capacity. The biggest update to the 2824 format in a generation (though they no longer use that numbering), as ETA is part of Swatch, these movements gave the group’s catalog of brands under Omega an unexpected edge in the market, but were not available to third-party brands, thus limiting their overall impact. The ETA 2824 featured in a Sinn 556i In 2003, Sellita began supplying movements to third parties as a response to Swatch’s...
Monochrome
At the dawn of mechanical time, hands weren’t a thing as bells would chime to signal an event or relay the hours. These giant mechanical bell towers were seen in Europe throughout the Middle Ages, with examples like the Salisbury Cathedral clock in the 14th century still functioning today (after restoration, of course). These early […]
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Fratello
We haven’t heard much from Synchron since the summer of 2023, but the beginning of 2026 has brought good tidings. The new Sealab Ti300M sports a familiar look, yet it brings modern features appreciated by collectors. We’ll follow this introduction up with a hands-on review next month. For now, though, let’s take a brief look […] Visit Introducing: The Synchron Sealab Ti300M to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
An elegant watch for both day and night for the ladies, the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time ticks a lot of boxes and punches above its weight. What We Love The elegant and classic look Great size for smaller wrists The textured dial is reminiscent of a Frozen Banana Daiquiri What We Don’t The 34mm isn’t as dainty as some may like The date window isn’t colour-matched to the dial Finding the perfect bracelet fit may prove tricky on smaller wrists Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection has earned a dedicated following by delivering dress-watch elegance with a uniquely spirited twist — each model draws inspiration from classic cocktails, pairing refined dial artistry with Seiko’s dependable automatic movements. With so many cocktails in the world, inspiration is endless for this lineup, and last year, Seiko released the Summer Cocktail collection, featuring a range of watches inspired by refreshing summer drinks. At the heart of this lineup lies the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPL64J, a two-tone timepiece inspired by the Frozen Banana Daiquiri. With the playful vibrancy of its muse, it showcases a textured gold-toned dial and subtle diamond accents. With a blend of vintage charm and modern wearability, the Presage Cocktail Time Frozen Banana Daiquiri showcases how Presage transforms everyday timekeeping into something distinctly stylish and expressive, while be...
WatchAdvice
Ladies, if you are after a great-looking summer watch, then the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 in the 36mm size or as we have dubbed, the “Summer Diamonds”, is a classy and sporty choice! What We Love The sporty look and colour combination Great size for smaller wrists The textured, gradient dial What We Don’t The 36mm may start to be on the larger side for some ladies It lacks full versatility across all dress situations In winter, the style may not be as suited to wear as in the summer months Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 The TAG Heuer Aquaracer has always occupied an important space in modern watchmaking. It’s the collection that quietly does the heavy lifting for the brand — a true sports watch that balances durability, design, and everyday practicality. In recent years, however, TAG Heuer has become far more deliberate in how it approaches case sizing, wearability, and who these watches are really for. We saw this with the release of the new Aquareacer Professional models in 2024 with redesigned case proportions, new three-dimensional dials, and a new movement that was developed by AMT for TAG Heuer – the TH31-00. But the brand has been pushing into the ladies’ territory of late, with new models that are shrunk down for smaller wrist sizes and some more feminine touches, such as the Aquaracer Professional Solargraph in a pink dial, diamonds and a 34mm case size. This was one ...
SJX Watches
Twenty twenty-six is just days away. Most in the watch industry are hoping the new year will bring better times than 2025, though most equally don’t quite expect that to happen. That said, it will be a great year for some brands, big and small. Architectural and affordable Independent watch brands have had a great run, and that looks like it’ll continue, especially for (expensive) time-only watches with decorated movements and frequently, open or no dials. Plenty of independent watchmakers cater to this demand, all for more or less the same money. Personally, I find many such watches uninteresting – though a few stand out and feel like they will stand the test of time – but the strength of demand will propel this trend. I expect two more interesting developments to emerge from this. One is watches priced lower, or much lower, than the typical CHF65,000-90,000 range for such watches. Ironically, while lower priced options might offer better value, they might be less appealing precisely because they are cheaper. That said, there is still opportunity in this segment, especially since lower prices often go hand-in-hand with higher volumes, so the market will gradually fulfil it, particularly since the way forward is obvious. Functionally, such watches are not complex. Computer-aided design makes it even simpler by allowing manufacturers to rework existing calibres with relative ease; Christopher Ward is already doing something along these lines with the C12. And decora...
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! We hope you had a wonderful Christmas Day with plenty of delicious food and refreshing drinks. As you recover from potential late-night celebrations, we offer some light entertainment today. For our series of best-of-2025 articles, it’s now time to look at some of this year’s best small-brand watches. After last week’s […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Small-Brand Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Echo/Neutra, Laventure, Berneron, And More to read the full article.
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Monochrome
If you’re not a big watch nerd like us, you likely don’t give a lot of thought to the glass covering watch dials. It’s not just a generic window and a bigger deal than you might think, as we’ll see in this instalment of the ABCs of Time. Some enthusiasts even demand one type over another, […]
Fratello
I don’t mind admitting that I can get a bit cynical and jaded when discussing watches. There’s just so much coming out and, frankly, not everything is equally inspired or well executed. So when I get the chance to go hands-on with something like this, it can feel like a breath of fresh air. This […] Visit Hands-On With The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds to read the full article.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we continue the series highlighting our favorite watches of 2025. It’s time for our favorite chronographs. Whereas last week’s list of GMT watches wasn’t easy to compile due to a lack of spectacular options, we were not left wanting this week. If anything, 2025 has given us an abundance […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Chronograph Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Zenith, And More to read the full article.
Fratello
Take a good look at the steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds in the pictures. What do you see? Exactly - a watch you didn’t think was a novelty. But it is. This medium-sized Reverso has all the trademarks of a traditional Reverso, along with a couple of updated tweaks. We go hands-on to […] Visit Hands-On With The Steel Midsize Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds - A Surprisingly Unsurprising Novelty to read the full article.
Fratello
The 1900 Paris World Exhibition was quite the event. The Grand Palais and Petit Palais were built for the occasion, and visitors could marvel at technological marvels, like the first escalators, the Rue de l’Avenir moving sidewalk, the city’s first metro line, as well as recreations of old Paris and a Swiss village, along with […] Visit The A. Lange & Söhne Centennial Tourbillon Comes Home to read the full article.
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