Hodinkee
Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds 'Midnight Blue'
Does anyone need a 30-second retrograde display? No, but all the more reason to give it a whirl.
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Worth the Cost: Smythson Notebooks
With the new school year in full swing, I’ve been reminded by my nephews and nieces just how much fun buying school supplies can be. I’m sure there is a direct correlation between my love of buying random notebooks before the school year began and my current job in the luxury pen industry (even though the line is a bit jagged, by way of dropping out of law school, working as a timeshare salesman, and a food blogger for a few years). But the collateral damage of my occupation has meant that I have a bit more of a discerning – read: judgmental – eye about stationery. Sure, I’m not going to tell my seven-year-old nephew that his composition notebook is the worst type of paper for fountain pens and is prone to tearing and bleeding…but I am thinking it. You see, it’s hard to appreciate these annual, almost Proustian moments this time of year now that I’ve been exposed to higher quality journals over the past few years. If there is anyone to blame, it would be Smythson for this chip I have on my shoulder. The British company, who has been making luxury stationery since 1887, is by all accounts a brand that puts craftsmanship, heritage, and aesthetics into every product – and once you’ve had the best, it’s hard to go back. History of Smythson With London heritage evident in nearly every aspect of Smythson – from their branding to products to cheeky little sayings on notebooks – it’s evident how steeped the brand has been in British culture since its ...
Fratello
Just When You Thought The Heated Date Debate Couldn’t Get Any Hotter, The Nomos Tangente 2date Shows Up
Every once in a while, you see a watch that raises more questions than it can answer. The Nomos Tangente 2date is such a watch. The biggest question is, “Why?” Since an answer isn’t immediately at hand, more and more questions arise. Is this a watch that can keep track of two different dates? Is […] Visit Just When You Thought The Heated Date Debate Couldn’t Get Any Hotter, The Nomos Tangente 2date Shows Up to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds
While the Streamliner has positioned itself as H. Moser’s flagship luxury sports watch, the Pioneer has been fighting its corner since 2015 as the brand’s sportiest, all-terrain, entry-level model. Starting with a Centre Seconds model, the collection escalated in complexity to include a Tourbillon, a Perpetual Calendar and even a skeletonised Cylindrical Tourbillon model. Thanks […]
SJX Watches
The Seiko Presage “Laurel” Gets a Porter Classic Makeover
The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series Porter Classic Collaboration SPB449 is result of a collaboration with Japanese fashion label Porter Classic. It’s modelled on the Laurel, the 1913 Seiko timepiece that was the first wristwatch made in Japan, giving the SPB449 a look typical of early-20th century timepieces that were essentially pocket watches converted into wristwatches. Porter Classic was founded by a member of the family that founded Porter Yoshida, the cult luggage brand known for its functional and pricey nylon bags. The brand offers clothing and accessories with a vintage feel, including jackets that accommodate pocket watches. Its take on the Presage is a modest tweak on the original: a black enamel dial made by the workshop of Mitsuru Yokosawa, the longtime supplier of enamel dials for the Presage. Initial thoughts Collaborations between watch brands and lifestyle labels are now common, so the SPB449 isn’t a surprise, especially since it’s between two uniquely Japanese brands. Still, Seiko rarely does collaborations with the Presage Craftsmanship series. The aesthetic, however, is not new as this similar to earlier Presage limited editions, namely the SPB359 of 2022 and last year’s SPB441, that were similarly inspired by the Laurel. While the difference between this and the earlier Laurel edition is basically a change of dial colour, the SPB449 stands out thanks to the high-contrast, black enamel dial. It’s striking even though the case is undersized ...
Video
An Affordable 38mm World Time Collaboration from Timex x Ghostly gets the Details Right.
Monochrome
Introducing – The new Kurono Special Projects Réserve de Marche, a.k.a the Sensu NOS
The brainchild of Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka (also behind the return of Takano), Kurono Tokyo was defined as his vision of a more accessible take on his design language, with watches merging traditional Japanese cues and classic vintage flair. Recent introductions of the brand focused on compact, retro-inspired watches with a bit less of […]
Quill & Pad
All Finalists in the 2024 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
The red carpet prize giving for the 2024 GPHG) will take place in Geneva on Wednesday the 13 November 2024. There are 16 categories with six finalists in each category making a total of 96 watches in the final round.
SJX Watches
Insight: The Advantages of a Vertical Clutch Chronograph
The vertical clutch has become the de facto standard in modern chronograph movements thanks to its mechanical and practical benefits. The widespread and varied use of the vertical clutch is illustrated by the many recent movements that employ the mechanism, ranging from the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to the Breitling B01 to the MB&F; LM Sequential Evo. The proliferation of the vertical clutch is easily explained by its merits. Having explained the construction of a vertical clutch, we now turn to its advantages over the traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling). Figure 1: A simplified cross section of a vertical clutch A vertical clutch serves to transfer energy from the going train of the movement to the chronograph going train, accomplishing this via a vertical motion. Figure 1 illustrates its key parts: a flywheel (yellow) geared to (or even part of) the going train; a cone (grey) that is linked to the chronograph seconds mobile, and vertically tensioned by a spring (red); a pair of pincers (blue) that engage with the cone, lifting or lowering the cone. When the cone is raised and engaged with flywheel, the chronograph starts running, and when the cone drops and disengages, the chronograph stops. One of the most apparent advantage of the vertical clutch is the low kinetic friction generated during coupling and uncoupling of the chronograph, as friction is produced only by the sliding motion of the pincers and the vertical motion of the cone. The Rolex Cosmogra...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Nomos Glashütte Introduces The Tangente 2date With A Brand New Movement
The German brand doubles down on the date complication with a wildcard take on a classic model.
Hodinkee
Happenings: Rémi Maillat To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The founder of Krayon will discuss the mathematical and mechanical aspects of the brand's universal sunrise-sunset complication.
Video
One Of The Best Dive Watches Under $1,000 Goes Blue: The Certina DS PH1000M STC
Monochrome
First Look – The new Nomos Tangente 2date, and The new In-House Calibre DUW 4601
If you’ve been following Nomos for a while, you certainly know that despite a certain German rigour and classic minimalistic inspiration (so-called Bauhaus), the Glashütte-based brand doesn’t like to do things too seriously – at least, design-wise. Small touches of colour, original shapes and a youthful approach are key elements of the brand’s design language. […]
Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Prioritizes Classic Design with Recent Updates to the Reverso
There is something incredibly satisfying about good design. Sure, this may seem like a basic statement; but, in the world we live in today, maybe it isn’t. So much of the watch market now relies on a steady IV drip of collaborations, bright colors, and sometimes novelty capabilities that classic design can feel like a sorbet course after a particularly heavy meal. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute line-up is that for me. Longtime readers may know that I’m quite fond of the classic Cartier Tank, and it wouldn’t be a stretch of the imagination to say the Reverso is cut from the same cloth. First created in the 1930’s as a watch that could withstand being beaten up during polo matches (can you think of a more 1% sentence?), the Reverso has now become a cult classic of sorts for, of course, its beauty – but also the fun tactility of the reversible case. While there have been many iterations of the Reverso collection, the latest in their Tribute line really show the sophistication and engineering know-how from the brand. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute collection features three new references to ogle: the Reverso Tribute Monoface, Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon (in steel), and the Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds (in pink gold). With three personalities to introduce you to, I’ll go through each separately. The first thing to notice about the Reverso Tribute Monoface is its size. Designed to be more in-line with the original Reverso from 1931, coming...
Time+Tide
The first Rolex worn on the Moon is up for auction
While it wasn't the first watch to reach the Moon, the GMT-Master that is up for sale beat all other Rolex watches up there. The post The first Rolex worn on the Moon is up for auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional
On this very day, October 1st, 25 years ago, I bought my first Omega Speedmaster watch. I was a student at the time and obsessed with watches, specifically, Omega Speedmasters. My first purchase was a Speedmaster 145.012 with caliber 321. One evening, I was cycling in the city center of The Hague and passed a […] Visit My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Kollokium is Back with “Variant d” of the Projekt 01
The still somewhat mysterious Kollokium project is back with its latest release, a new variant in their first series, dubbed Projekt 01. The Kollokium drops this year have reminded us, for better or worse, of the limited edition releases that dominated the pandemic era of watch collecting. In other words, watches timed to a worldwide release window, which starts a frenzy and inevitably ends up in many being disappointed when they miss out on snagging one. It seemed like these happened a few times a month in 2020 and 2021, but this cycle has slowed down significantly as the watch industry has normalized a bit over the last few years. I think it’s too Kollokium’s credit, then, that they’re still able to gin up a level of excitement for their watches that is capable of leaving people in a state where they inevitably lash out via keyboard. It’s also worth noting that these watches are still genuinely scarce enough that when they pop up on auction sites or the pre-owned market, they tend to command a hefty premium. All of this, of course, is secondary to the merits of the Projekt 01 as a watch, and I still believe that Kollokium is doing something that is pretty genuinely interesting at a price point (at retail) that feels approachable. The brand, you’ll remember, was founded by watch industry veterans Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, who collectively represent the business, design, and collecting sides of the community, with overlap across all three fo...
Video
The Art of Time: A Journey with the Atelier Wen Perception
Monochrome
First Look – The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy “White Star”
Unquestionably one of the best-selling models at Oris, the Divers Sixty-Five resurfaced after a period of dormancy in 2015 with its vintage appeal and ancestor’s traits practically intact. A year later, Oris revisited its Divers Sixty-Five in a limited edition with a larger 42mm diameter and a bronze case dedicated to Carl Brashear with a […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The De Rijke & Co. Guy Allen “Land” From The Amalfi Series
What could you do to make a time-only watch distinctive? How about letting the case rotate up to 90° to adjust the dial to the ideal position when driving? You don’t even have to be a petrolhead to appreciate Dutch independent watchmaker Laurens de Rijke and his latest collaboration with Guy Allen. Designs make watches […] Visit Hands-On With The De Rijke & Co. Guy Allen “Land” From The Amalfi Series to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Certina DS-7 Chrono gets an automatic movement and a padel inspired dial
With subtle nods to padel with its grid dial texture, the new DS-7 Chrono Auto from Certina is a great all-around entry-level chronograph.The post The Certina DS-7 Chrono gets an automatic movement and a padel inspired dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Ice-Blue, Europe-Only Seiko Presage Style60’s SRPL19
Released in 2021, the Presage Style60’s was positioned as Seiko‘s vision of a casual, all-rounder-oriented and vintage-inspired watch. Far from the classism of the Craftsmanship Series or the funky colours of the Cocktail models, this collection was loosely based on the 1964 Crown watch, Japan’s first wrist chronograph – hence the sporty touch of this […]
Time+Tide
We read the Rolex Submariner book so you don’t have to
After creating waves upon its release, we wanted to dive into the pages of Oyster Perpetual Submariner to see what all the fuss was about.The post We read the Rolex Submariner book so you don’t have to appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
The Best Omega of ALL TIME!!!?
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Is In-House In The Outhouse?
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss the increasing number of claims about movement production and wonder whether it all truly matters. “In-house,” “in-house-designed,” and “third-party” are only some explanations we hear about movements and their origin. It’s gotten a bit nutty! For our listeners, there’s horology content interspersed initially, […] Visit Fratello On Air: Is In-House In The Outhouse? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Auto, Now Available in Mid-Size 39mm
Hamilton, a brand renowned for its connection with Hollywood and military forces, and its reputation for producing durable, reliable watches, expanded its popular Khaki Aviation series earlier this year with the modern Pilot line. Now offered in a versatile 39mm case size, new references bridge the gap between the existing, slightly oversized 42mm and compact […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Ice-Blue Seiko Presage Style60’s European Limited Edition SRPL19
Here in the Netherlands, it seems the cusp of winter is upon us. Last week, we were still enjoying the summer weather in T-shirts and shorts. Right now, though, I’m wearing jeans, a shirt, and a merino wool vest, and I’m still cold. We simply skipped the fall season completely and went from 25 degrees […] Visit Introducing: The Ice-Blue Seiko Presage Style60’s European Limited Edition SRPL19 to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Romain Gauthier Prestige HM: An Impressive Debut that Launched the Brand
The Romain Gauthier Prestige HM is a rare instance of a creator finding his voice on the first attempt. Even through the lens of 17 years of the brand’s evolution, the Prestige HM remains immediately recognizable as a product of the engineer-turned-entrepreneur whose name it bears.
Monochrome
Introducing – Seiko Teams Up with Porter Classic, Bringing the Laurel-Inspired Black Enamel Presage SPB449
While collaborations between watch manufacturers and lifestyle-oriented brands have been a thing for the past years, it’s not often that Seiko teams up with an external designer or fashion brand. We’ve seen multiple collaborations in the Seiko 5 Sports collection, but with Presage, this is more surprising. And even more surprising than the joint work […]
Video