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Santos Cartier

The 1904 Cartier watch designed for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.

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Tank Cartier

Louis Cartier's 1917 rectangular design, inspired by the Renault FT tank.

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Sword Hands

Flat triangular blade hands without a central ridge. Cartier Tank, Santos, IWC Mark XI / Mark XX classical-dress and military signature.

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Richemont

Geneva luxury holding group founded 1988 by Johann Rupert. Owns Cartier, IWC, JLC, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron, Panerai, Piaget. Largest haute-horlogerie portfolio in the industry.

Paul Gerber: Renaissance Man And Creator Of World’s Most Complicated Watch And Smallest Wooden Clock – Reprise Quill & Pad
Oct 5, 2019

Paul Gerber: Renaissance Man And Creator Of World’s Most Complicated Watch And Smallest Wooden Clock – Reprise

The era of the master visionary and maker may be dead and gone in many other industries, but to create a beautiful watch, like composing a beautiful string quartet, you need a Beethoven, a Haydn, or a Brahms not a committee of brainstormers dreaming up target groups. Paul Gerber is up there with the giants, and Marton Radkai explains why.

“Instead of watching TV when I was 10 years old, I took watches apart.” Celebrating 10 years of Louis Vuitton’s Spin Time with its creator, Michel Navas Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet May 5, 2019

“Instead of watching TV when I was 10 years old, I took watches apart.” Celebrating 10 years of Louis Vuitton’s Spin Time with its creator, Michel Navas

When it comes to watchmaking, it’s no stretch of a hairspring to say that Michel Navas has done it all. He was a key figure at Gérald Genta in the high complications team in the boom times of the ’90s. He also worked at Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. At Franck Muller, he masterminded the … ContinuedThe post “Instead of watching TV when I was 10 years old, I took watches apart.” Celebrating 10 years of Louis Vuitton’s Spin Time with its creator, Michel Navas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Good Vibrations: Armin Strom reveals  the Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition Quill & Pad
Armin Strom reveals  Apr 22, 2026

Good Vibrations: Armin Strom reveals  the Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition

We all know that watchmakers love complications. Throughout history, the quest for ever greater chronometric precision has produced a wide range of mechanisms, like the tourbillon, which has been mastered by many and improved. The post Good Vibrations: Armin Strom reveals  the Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition appeared first on Quill & Pad.

Vacheron Constantin’s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns Apr 13, 2026

Vacheron Constantin’s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns

Following a belter of an anniversary year during which the brand launched, among other things, the world’s most complicated wristwatch and a quarter-ton astronomical clock, Vacheron Constantin (VC) kicks off Watches & Wonders with something more low-profile, both literally and figuratively - the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin. While small in stature at just 7.35 mm thick, it’s what’s inside the counts - namely, an all-new micro-rotor calibre with 80 hours of power reserve and seemingly limitless potential. Initial thoughts The new Overseas Ultra-Thin is little different from the model that preceded it, though the ref. 2000V remained rare enough throughout its production run that the format still feels fresh. It also helps that despite the visual similarity, the ref. 2500V is a completely new watch inside and out, catapulting a model that arguably lagged behind its one obvious competitor into instant parity. The ref. 2500V is best understood from the inside out. Audemars Piguet replaced the well-loved historical cal. 2121 with its more modern cal. 7121 in 2022, and now it’s VC’s turn, being the last of the big three purveyors of mass-market fine watchmaking to replace its aging Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920-based movements with an in-house alternative. The reluctance to replace this venerable platform is understandable. What VC calls the cal. 1120 is one of the last movements of its generation still in use, and carries a historical weight missing from many moder...

Dominique Renaud’s Pulse60 is Slow and Steady SJX Watches
Mar 17, 2026

Dominique Renaud’s Pulse60 is Slow and Steady

One of the most influential watchmakers of the post-quartz era has re-emerged with a groundbreaking slow-beat oscillator that cleverly avoids the amplitude constraints typical of such constructions. The Pulse60 is the latest project from Dominique Renaud’s eponymous workshop Haute Horlogerie Dominique Renaud (HHDR), and the first watch to bear his full name in a decade. The Pulse60 runs at just 7,200 times per hour - a frequency of just 1 Hz – a quarter the rate of a conventional movement. Ordinarily, such a slow beat would leave the movement susceptible to external forces, but here it has been combined with a proprietary escapement that overcomes the challenge. While the technical ingenuity is expected given Mr Renaud’s pedigree, the relatively accessible price of under CHF50,000 is unexpected, especially given the state of the market today. Initial thoughts It’s been a decade since Dominique Renaud came out of retirement, but his most public contributions since then have come under the Renaud Tixier banner. Latecomers to independent watchmaking may be less familiar with Mr Renaud’s work, but he played an important role in establishing the contemporary high-end watchmaking landscape. The Pulse60 is the first watch to carry the Dominique Renaud name since the exotic and expensive DR01 Twelve First, which was not made in significant numbers. But unlike its short-lived predecessor, which featured a low-amplitude, high-frequency escapement of Mr Renaud’s own des...

Hands On: Breguet Expérimentale 1 SJX Watches
Breguet Expérimentale 1 Feb 27, 2026

Hands On: Breguet Expérimentale 1

The Expérimentale 1 debuted last year as the capstone to the first quarter-millennium of the house of Breguet. We attended the launch event and shared immediate hands-on impressions, but watches like this don’t come along every day, or even every year, so it’s worth a fresh look now that some time has passed and the dust has settled. On paper, the Expérimentale 1 arguably represents the highest form of the mechanical watch. To understand the technical details of what makes the watch so groundbreaking, this in-depth analysis should be considered required reading. In short, the cal. 7250 housed within introduces the first-ever contactless mechanical escapement that simultaneously achieves two feats that Abraham-Louis Breguet himself toiled to accomplish throughout his entire career, namely, an oil-free escapement and stable amplitude. The Expérimentale 1 delivers both, and more. That said, as a wristwatch the Expérimentale 1 is tantalisingly imperfect owing to its polarising design. In fairness, this arguably says more about the difficultly of communicating technical breakthroughs to a non-technical public than it does about the design process at Breguet. It could also be the result of Breguet learning lessons from its own past. A modern (Marine) chronometer The Expérimentale 1 is most notable for its novel escapement and what it signals about the future direction of the brand, but it’s also worth analysing the updated Marine-style case, which is the most challeng...

Timex Unearths a Forgotten Cinematic Cult Classic with the Q Timex Red Vega 1978 Reissue Worn & Wound
Timex Unearths Feb 10, 2026

Timex Unearths a Forgotten Cinematic Cult Classic with the Q Timex Red Vega 1978 Reissue

When I began writing my most recent article on the original Timex Q Nebula a month ago, I had no idea how timely its release would be several weeks later. My article hit the website on January 29th, and less than a week later, Timex announced the reissue of this model with the Red Vega moniker. While I had initially claimed in my work that I was the creator of the “Timex Vega” nickname, I will gladly concede my very small and inconsequential victory to Timex, knowing they must’ve brainstormed this name many months before I did. At this rate, I’m just happy to see this watch finally receive the proper reissue treatment. Let’s talk about its design and specs. First, of course, is the dial. The nebula pattern on the example featured in Timex’s promotional shots of the watch is phenomenal. With sharp edges and a bright red hue, it’s well executed and packs a vibrant punch. I haven’t heard if the dial design will vary between examples, so be on the lookout as other photos emerge to see if there are any differences in pattern. The 38mm brushed and polished stainless-steel case looks great from all angles and helps keep the case almost as interesting as the dial and crystal. Oh yeah, how did I not mention the crystal yet? These reissues will feature multifaceted acrylic crystals similar to those offered on the original 1978 model––a very welcome and unique touch.  Having the unique perspective of a historian who’s done an ample amount of research on this sp...

Urwerk’s Reimagines Entry-Level UR-100V in Ceramic SJX Watches
Urwerk s Reimagines Entry-Level UR-100V Feb 9, 2026

Urwerk’s Reimagines Entry-Level UR-100V in Ceramic

Urwerk continues to iterate its most accessible model with the UR-100V “LightSpeed” Ceramic. The Lightspeed is essentially a variation of an earlier model, with ceramic composite replacing carbon composite. The ceramic composite incorporates fibreglass and carbon fibre, giving it a textured surface and greater strength. Though it’s relatively affordable compared to other Urwerk models, the UR-100V still retains the brand’s signature elements, including a wandering hours display and various astronomical-time indicators on the dial. Initial thoughts The UR-100V now exists in a multitude of variations, perhaps too many, but the Lightspeed stands out as one of the most interesting in both material and style. The ceramic composite case is appealing for both its appearance and utility – it is hard, strong, and lightweight – and is being used for the first time by Urwerk. It also doesn’t cost that much more than earlier versions of the model, making this iteration more compelling. More broadly, I would have liked Urwerk to vary the display across the UR-100V line, beyond the case material, making each iteration more distinct. As they stand, most share the same dial and indications, with only the case changing for each edition. Light and white Because the case is a ceramic composite rather than pure ceramic, it has a textured surface with a slight glossiness. These characteristics stem from the fibreglass and carbon fibre sheets within the composite, explaining the w...

Introducing: Three 38mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronographs With A New In-House Movement Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronographs Feb 4, 2026

Introducing: Three 38mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronographs With A New In-House Movement

After using a relatively common Frederic Piguet movement for almost 30 years, Audemars Piguet now introduces the 6401, an in-house automatic chronograph caliber. It offers higher accuracy, greater reliability, and a more refined appearance. The brand’s 38mm Royal Oak is the first model to feature the new movement. You can choose between a stainless steel […] Visit Introducing: Three 38mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronographs With A New In-House Movement to read the full article.

Introducing – Twenty Years and Going Strong, the Ochs und Junior Settimana PVD Monochrome
Jan 26, 2026

Introducing – Twenty Years and Going Strong, the Ochs und Junior Settimana PVD

Simple solutions to complex problems could well be Dr Ludwig Oechslin’s overriding philosophy. Former curator of the Musée international d’horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Oechslin studied archaeology as an undergraduate and obtained a PhD in Philosophy – with a scholarship to study theoretical physics and astronomy – and became a Swiss master watchmaker in 1983. Bringing […]

First Look – The Dazzling Bulgari Tubogas Manchette Monochrome
Bulgari Tubogas Manchette Celebrating Jan 19, 2026

First Look – The Dazzling Bulgari Tubogas Manchette

Celebrating its original vocation as a Roman goldsmith and creator of fabulous high jewellery pieces glowing with brightly coloured gemstones, Bulgari kicks off LVMH Watch Week with a dazzling Tubogas Manchette in yellow gold. Fitted with Bulgari’s recently unveiled Lady Solotempo BVS 100 automatic movement, the gorgeous cuff marries the brand’s iconic Tubogas design to […]

First Look – Maurice Lacroix 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix 1975 Master Grand Date Jan 16, 2026

First Look – Maurice Lacroix 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde

For more than a quarter of a century, mostly through its Masterpiece collection, Maurice Lacroix has delivered pretty appealing watches based on single or multiple retrograde indications – a design statement that somehow became a signature style for the brand. Following the recent launch of the Aikonic Master Triple Retrograde, a watch with retrograde displays […]

Oris Introduces the New Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye” Worn & Wound
Oris Introduces Jan 14, 2026

Oris Introduces the New Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye”

Every year in January, Oris hosts a preview event for media in Vail, CO to show new novelties that will be introduced during the first quarter of the year, and previewing their focus for Watches & Wonders. While much of what we saw was under embargo and will only be revealed in the coming months, there was one new release that landed on the day of the brand’s presentation. The new Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye joins the collection this week, and slightly rethinks the Pointer Date formula that has been so successful for Oris over these past several years. Many of the best watches in this collection have worked thanks to a bold use of color (teals, greens, reds, and of course last year’s vibrant canary yellow version all come to mind). But this watch is more about graphics and contrast.  The dial here makes use of gray and black tones in contrast to create what amounts, in practice, to a sector dial. Red accents provide some visual interest, but the dominant feature here is the cool “tuxedo” style presentation. At the preview event I thought it worked really well, particularly when you get the dial into strong natural light. The gray sections have a reflective quality that works well against the more matte black interior ring. It has a lot more depth than I was expecting, and legibility is really great thanks to the high contrast.  The Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye is housed in a 38mm stainless steel case that at this point will be quite familiar to many. There...