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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

On-Wrist Reaction: Lume Dials and Colorful Hand Crankers Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Dive Feb 14, 2023

On-Wrist Reaction: Lume Dials and Colorful Hand Crankers

In this episode of On-Wrist Reaction we take a look at 3 very different, and very exciting watches that aren’t afraid to have a little fun. Lume dials might be a little hit or miss, but when they hit, they really hit. Pair a lume dial with the amazing case of this Citizen Promaster Dive and you fall very much on the ‘hit’ side of that equation. We offer our initial impressions on this unexpectedly awesome diver, as well as a popular new release from Meraud, and a trail watch from up and coming brand Circula. Enjoy the full video below and hit the introductions and first looks at these watches after the break. Check out our hands-on look at the Meraud Antigua right here for more details on that watch, which launched last week. This is one of those rare hand-wound chronographs that walks a fine line between heritage inspiration and funky uniqueness and it works all around. If you have any questions or thoughts on these watches that you’d like to see addressed in our reviews, be sure to let us know in the comments. Furthermore, if you have a watch or a piece of gear you’d like to see us react to, please reach out to us at info@wornandwound.com. The post On-Wrist Reaction: Lume Dials and Colorful Hand Crankers appeared first on Worn & Wound.

VIDEO: The Bulova Sinatra Collection hits a variety of top notes Time+Tide
Bulova Sinatra Collection hits Feb 5, 2023

VIDEO: The Bulova Sinatra Collection hits a variety of top notes

People who like watches have hobbies and passions that extend beyond horology. Maybe its cars, or cigars, or whiskey or all the above. But one thing I have never met is a watch lover that doesn’t like music. Music is universal, and one of the biggest musical icons of all time is Frank Sinatra. So, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Bulova Sinatra Collection hits a variety of top notes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How About a Big Bronze Skull for the Wrist? Bell & Ross Has You Covered Worn & Wound
Richard Mille there are skull watches Feb 1, 2023

How About a Big Bronze Skull for the Wrist? Bell & Ross Has You Covered

Ah yes, the skull watch. While not exactly what I’d call a “staple,” watches featuring skulls have been ever present in modern watch collecting for years. Most notably, we can look to independent watchmaker Fiona Kruger as something of a skull watch specialist, but other brands are in on the skull action as well. From Invicta (of course, Invicta) to Richard Mille, there are skull watches out there for every taste and budget. Indeed, one of my favorite watches from last year features a skull in a nontraditional way. But we can’t talk about skull watches without talking about Bell & Ross, who have released a variety of these watches in their relatively short history. Their latest release, the BR 01 Cyber Skull Bronze, is one of the strangest yet.  First, let’s answer the question many are likely asking themselves right now: why? While different brands might have varying rationales for creating skull watches, we can at least identify that the skull itself as a symbol is recognized somewhat universally as dealing with the idea of mortality. A memento mori, a reminder that every living thing dies, is a theme that exists in art going back centuries. This is a natural thematic playing field for a watch, dealing as it does with the passing of time. Also, they just kind of look cool. I’m reminded of a heavily tattooed friend being asked about the symbolism behind the artwork on his body (including, you guessed it, skulls) and his curt response, indicating that he just ...

Opinion: Let’s Talk About Celebrity Watch Ambassadors Worn & Wound
Feb 1, 2023

Opinion: Let’s Talk About Celebrity Watch Ambassadors

I’d like to start with a warning: what you’re about to read is going to be frivolous. This is not hard hitting watch journalism. It’s not a deeply felt opinion piece about a matter of great import to the watch world at large. And it’s not an in-depth review of a watch the community has its eye on. No, this little editorial is about something that’s been rattling around in my head for a while, and serves as an admission of sorts: I’m kind of fascinated by how watch brands use celebrity ambassadors.  Somehow, celebrity ambassadors have become the third rail of serious watch conversation. They aren’t taken seriously by hardcore watch enthusiasts, and bringing them up in a circle occupied by hobbyists will often garner an eye-roll. Hey, I get it. The deeper you are into any particular culture, the less impact advertising and the popular version of whatever it is you like has on you. In a previous life as an amateur Music Snob, I’d sneer at the suggestion that I’d enjoy anything that might be played on the radio. I’d begin to write bands off as past their prime when they gained enough traction to graduate from playing clubs to larger theaters. If 5,000 people want to see these guys at the same time, there’s no way they’re niche enough for me.  George Clooney would like to sell you a Speedmaster But over time, I’ve softened. I’ve even seen some of those bands I liked in college that were pretty obscure at the time go on to play arenas. Small arenas,...

There’s Something Very Strange About the New Timex Collaboration with Pop Trading Co. Worn & Wound
Timex Collaboration Jan 31, 2023

There’s Something Very Strange About the New Timex Collaboration with Pop Trading Co.

When you were a kid, did you ever attempt that prank where you’d move the clock in the classroom ahead in an effort to trick the teacher into letting you out of class early? I feel like that’s a thing that almost every kid has tried, or at least it feels that way. It’s one of those activities that’s burned into our collective consciousness from sitcoms, comic strips, and stories told in the school cafeteria whether or not you were an active participant. This is what the latest release from Timex immediately made me think of. It’s playful and almost subversive in the way it taps into your inner juvenile delinquent.  The new watch is a collaboration with Pop Trading Co., a Dutch apparel company I was heretofore unfamiliar with that is deeply rooted in skateboarding culture. The watch, dubbed simply the Timex MK1 x Pop Trading Co. takes the familiar 36mm Timex field watch design and shifts the hours such that the “1” is at the 12:00 position, “2” is at 1:00, and so on around the dial. Pop’s unique wordmark, a grouping of the letter “P” in a square with an “O” at the center, is recreated on the dial with the hand stack standing in for the “O.” A black resin case matches the tone of the dial and keeps the focus on the unusual layout.  There’s no other way to say this, but looking at the dial of the Timex x Pop collab is an immediately disorienting and disconcerting experience. It really reminds you, if you look at watches everyday, like we do...

Auction Watch: A Single-Owner Collection of F.P. Journe at Phillips SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Jan 13, 2023

Auction Watch: A Single-Owner Collection of F.P. Journe at Phillips

Le Concours de Complexité is probably the smallest watch auction ever conducted by Phillips. Taking place online from January 13-20, the sale comprises just 11 watches. But all 11 are F.P. Journe watches, including important models like a Sonnerie Souveraine, Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium, and Centigraphe Anniversaire. So while the quantity is modest, the quality and value are high. And the watches all come with impeccable provenance. The former owner is a prominent businessman from Southeast Asia who is active real estate development. He purchased most of them brand new and has clearly kept them in immaculate condition. Le Concours de Complexité begins on January 13 and will run until January 20. Bidding and the catalogue can be accessed on Phillips.com. Below we round up a trio of highlights from the sale. The Sonnerie Souveraine Lot 8001 – Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium Synonymous with the independent watchmaker, the Resonance is correctly regarded as one of the most ingenious creations in contemporary watchmaking. Francois-Paul Journe was the first to implement the concept in a wristwatch, having been inspired by 18th century clocks operating on the principle of resonance. This example is one of the Ruthenium series that was launched in 2001. The name comes from the fact that the dial and brass movement bridges are plated in ruthenium, giving them a dark grey finish. Notably, the Ruthenium editions are the last F.P. Journe models to utilise brass m...

The Owner’s Perspective: Reviewing The Zenith Defy Skyline WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy Skyline What we Jan 9, 2023

The Owner’s Perspective: Reviewing The Zenith Defy Skyline

What we like: Comfort factor on either steel or rubberUnique 1/10th Second sub-dialbeautiful blue dial What we don’t like: No micro-adjust system on the braceletThe bracelet can catch arm hairs occasionallyInability to accurately set the time with the 1/10th second sub-dial Overall rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/ 10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 8/10 When Zenith released the Defy Skyline towards the start of 2022 at LVMH Watch Week, I was immediately drawn to it. Not only had Zenith completely re-imagined the original Defy from the late 60s, but had designed a modern steel sports watch with today’s watch consumer in mind. A great blend of modern lines, a bold design and styling harking back to the original Defy that was released in 1969. With many integrated sports watches on the market these days, it is good to see that a brand like Zenith is taking inspiration from some of its earlier model lines and bringing this to today’s consumer. Now, full disclosure, this isn’t a loan watch for this review; I did order it back in April 2022 and, after a 6-month wait, finally had it on my wrist in October. So this is my hands-on review of the Zenith Defy Skyline now I’ve owned and worn for the past couple of months. And in that time, I’ve really put it through its paces – office work, beach, snorkelling, surfing, trap shooting, and overseas trips, to name a few!  How it wears: The Defy Skyline has been designed for wearability. With a diameter of 4...

The Franck Muller Crazy Hours is a horological exercise in pure, unbridled fun Time+Tide
Franck Muller Jan 6, 2023

The Franck Muller Crazy Hours is a horological exercise in pure, unbridled fun

It goes likes this: 8, 1, 6, 11, 4, 9, 2, 7, 12, 5, 10, 3. No, this isn’t some Fibonacci-like mathematical sequence, the combination to a very complicated electronic safe, or even a code for sending secret military messages via a cipher machine. It’s the order of numerals on the Art Deco dial of … ContinuedThe post The Franck Muller Crazy Hours is a horological exercise in pure, unbridled fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook Dec 30, 2022

Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world

Watches. They broadly tell the time, but the way in which they do so is where things get interesting. You have your minimalists, which strip things down to the barest of elements: an hour and minute hand. Once you begin to add complications, like a second hand, a chronograph function, day/date apertures, perpetual calendars, and … ContinuedThe post Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close With the Unimatic x Revolution & The Rake Modello Uno GMT “Arctic Fox” Revolution
Unimatic Dec 28, 2022

Up Close With the Unimatic x Revolution & The Rake Modello Uno GMT “Arctic Fox”

Take a closer look at the U1 GMT in an all-white Cerakote coating with stonewashed finishing. Every single watch is unique and slightly different from other pieces due to the random wear patterns created during the hand-finished process, giving it a distinctive feel. For maximum legibility, the watch features a 24-hour matte aluminum bezel, black-tipped […]

HANDS-ON: The CODE41 Mecascape is a truly unique timekeeping device Time+Tide
Dec 25, 2022

HANDS-ON: The CODE41 Mecascape is a truly unique timekeeping device

The practicality of a wristwatch is a controversial topic in a world of smartphones and atomic clocks, especially when you can get a bulletproof digital watch for less than $50. Inventing a separate timekeeping device that doesn’t strap to your wrist sounds more like a step backwards than forwards at first, but there are several … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The CODE41 Mecascape is a truly unique timekeeping device appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches with Tachymeters: How They Work and Our 15 Top Tachymeter Watc Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 15, 2022

Watches with Tachymeters: How They Work and Our 15 Top Tachymeter Watc

It's a common refrain in the watch collector community that chronographs are one of the most popular complications while at the same time being one of the least practical in day-to-day life. Many of the most famous chronograph watches are also equipped with tachymeter scales, and while fans of these watches mostly agree that they look very cool, few of them have ever used the scale with the stopwatch function, and many wouldn't really know how. Nevertheless, the tachymeter on a watch was invented for a utilitarian, practical purpose once upon a time and it's worth briefly exploring those origins and exploring those capabilities. Essentially, a tachymeter (also called a tachometer) is a numerical scale on a watch’s dial or bezel that is used in conjunction with a chronograph seconds hand to measure an object’s speed over a predetermined distance. It is often used to determine miles or kilometers per hour and is thus a common feature of chronograph watches whose design is inspired by automobile racing; we'll showcase several icons of that category in our list below. Unlike divers’ watch bezels, which should rotate in one direction to set dive times, or other types of bezel scales used for calculations and conversions, like the circular slide rule on Breitling’s Navitimer, most of which are bidirectional, a tachymeter scale bezel should be fixed. The numerical scale typically starts around the 6- or 7-second marker on the minute track, and is usually indicated in ...

Kudoke Makes a Hollywood Debut in ‘Last Looks’ SJX Watches
Omega Seamaster Nov 29, 2022

Kudoke Makes a Hollywood Debut in ‘Last Looks’

Seeing an Omega Seamaster in the latest James Bond is hardly a surprise. Independent watchmakers, however, rarely get the same Hollywood opportunities that deep-pocketed brands like Omega do. But tiny German watchmaker Kudoke managed to make it to the big screen without a well-funded marketing campaign. This story starts with American novelist Howard Michael Gould, who released Last Looks in 2018. A mystery novel centred on a disgraced detective, Last Looks was on its way to the silver screen shortly after publication with Charlie Hunnam and Mel Gibson in starring roles. Dominic Monaghan’s character wearing the Kudoke Real Skeleton A crucial Kudoke skeleton While the filming Last Looks, the producers reached out to the husband-and-wife team behind Kudoke, Ev and Stefan, for a watch to be worn in a movie without providing much details. According to Ev, the email from the producers initially seemed to be a random piece of spam. After all, most watches with prominent placements in films are the result of hefty advertising budgets. But then Kudoke received another email with the same request from another sender. This piqued their interest but left Ev and Stefan wondering why any producer would choose a watch most of the audience would never recognise? Soon enough, the Kudokes were sent excerpts of the script. To their surprise, the watch was not merely an accessory, but it was a central part of the plot, a crucial clue for solving the mystery in fact. The Kudokes natural...

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar IW344601 and IW344602 Time+Tide
IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar IW344601 Nov 23, 2022

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar IW344601 and IW344602

Most people associate IWC with pilot’s watches, which makes total sense due to their rich aviation history and classics like the Mark and Big Pilot series. But with their Portugieser and Portofino collections, IWC prove they still know how to appeal to dressier sensibilities. The latest duo of Portofino watches, the IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar IW344601 and IW344602 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Platinum status: The psychological reason why we think heavy watches are more valuable Time+Tide
Nov 19, 2022

Platinum status: The psychological reason why we think heavy watches are more valuable

Platinum is the acceptable form of heavy metal. The reason for this isn’t just down to the lack of spandex trousers and apocalyptic imagery. It’s simply hard not to be seduced by a platinum watch. Here is the ultimate stealth-wealth material that visually offers the discretion of stainless-steel. And yet pick up a watch like … ContinuedThe post Platinum status: The psychological reason why we think heavy watches are more valuable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

My top five picks from the Ineichen Complications auction Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Breguet Nov 18, 2022

My top five picks from the Ineichen Complications auction

The auctions at Ineichen never disappoint and, on December 3, that track record continues. Because on that day, at 2pm CET, bidding will begin for their Complications: Dates & Calendars auction. Fifty lots of some of the most complicated and beautiful watches from storied brands like Vacheron Constantin, Breguet and JLC. So much complicated goodness that … ContinuedThe post My top five picks from the Ineichen Complications auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Varon Chiri Blazer is a dressy everyday watch for a remarkable price Time+Tide
Nov 14, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Varon Chiri Blazer is a dressy everyday watch for a remarkable price

It’s no secret that microbrands can often provide incredible watches for the money, but that doesn’t mean that they can get away with putting no effort in. Slapping together a list of specifications at a low price point might seem like the key to Kickstarter success, but it takes a lot of planning, intuition, and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Varon Chiri Blazer is a dressy everyday watch for a remarkable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Ventura L 14K Gold Limited Edition Time+Tide
Hamilton Ventura L 14K Gold Nov 10, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Ventura L 14K Gold Limited Edition

If we’re being honest, most watch brands wouldn’t get away with releasing a watch like the Ventura today. It’s unashamedly weird, full of retro-futuristic quirks that wouldn’t look out of place on the wrist of George Jetson, and most of the references carry a taboo quartz movement. But Hamilton are not most brands. Although the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Ventura L 14K Gold Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…) Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Oct 26, 2022

How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…)

Jacob & Co don’t really make watches. What they specialise in is wrist-bound manifestations of the American Dream. The brand’s watches tend to be buried alive in diamonds or tricked out in mind-boggling complications. Sometimes they combine both at the same time. You can’t describe them as mere status symbols. They’re more like flashing neon … ContinuedThe post How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits Oct 26, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size

There’s really nothing else like the look of a Panerai, such is its visual singularity. A long-time favourite of Hollywood (and real-life) tough guys, it’s a legend among those whose default wristwear leans hard into “bold statement”. In fact, I’d say it’s nearly as recognisable as a Submariner, if less ubiquitous, and frankly, one of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Wristmons Calavera SJX Watches
Chopard Oct 19, 2022

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Wristmons Calavera

Konstantin Chaykin returns with another variation of his signature Wristmon “rolling eye” wristwatch, this time inspired by El Día de Muertos. Translating as “Day of the Dead”, the Mexican festival celebrates the departed and has served as inspiration for watchmakers as diverse as Chopard and Swatch. Modelled on the sugar skull candy known as calavera made for the festival, the latest from the Russian watchmaker is the Calavera. Like the other Wristmons, it has an exuberant face with the typical features of a Wristmon – time is indicated by the eyes while the mouth is a moon phase display. Initial thoughts Konstantin Chaykin has created many Wristmon variants – the most recent was inspired by the titular yellow characters of Minions – which makes it seem like a great many have been produced. But in reality each edition is a small run of 20 or less watches, which means the aggregate number of watches is modest. Still, the appeal of the various Wristmon editions vary; because of their similar complications, the models tend to converge on each other. The Calavera, however, stands out. With its bright colours and curlicues, the striking face easily evokes the Mexican festival, while being distinct from other Wristmons. Familiar dimensions As is typical for a Wristmon, the dial is fairly complex. Here it’s comprised of 12 components, with the base featuring a stamped radial-wave guilloche and finished in a bright silver meant to resemble powdered sugar of ...

Cartier (Re)Introduces the Pebble SJX Watches
Cartier Re)Introduces Oct 17, 2022

Cartier (Re)Introduces the Pebble

Widely anticipated due to inadvertent appearances on social media, the Cartier Pebble has now been officially announced, continuing the jeweller’s strong of vintage reissues like the Tank Cintree 150th Anniversary of 2020. Formally known as the Pebble-Shaped Watch, the reissue is a limited edition of 150 pieces to mark 50 years since the original, which was conceived by Cartier London a few years after the Crash. While not as famous as the Dali-esque sibling, the Pebble is a simple yet distinctive design in the best tradition of Cartier – a square dial rotated 45 degrees from the horizontal within a perfectly round case. Initial thoughts Although not especially well known before last year’s record auction result for a vintage example, the Pebble is an easily recognisable design. At 36 mm it’s modest in size by modern standards, but stands out with its clean lines and peculiar but pleasing shape. The remake smartly sticks closely to the original, so much so that they will be almost identical at a distance. For fans of Cartier’s classic and quirky style, the Pebble reissue is appealing – albeit at a steep price. The Pebble is twice as expensive as the Santos-Dumont lacquered case in gold that has the same movement, and 50% pricier than the Tank Cintree 150th that has an arguably finer, thinner calibre. The Pebble is a winner in terms of execution but the price is difficult to stomach. Sometimes known as the “baseball” The Pebble belongs to the group of oddl...

2022 Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph Hands-on review WatchAdvice
Audemars Piguet released Aug 31, 2022

2022 Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph Hands-on review

What we like: Dial design is a real head turner Beautiful bracelet with mirror finishGreat price point for a Swiss chronograph What we don’t like: Some may not like the thickness of the watch Scatches will show up easily on the bracelet The watch can wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches  Overall rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/ 10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 One of the most anticipated watches in 2022 has just been released, and Watchadvice has been given a chance to do a full in-depth review of it. The Tissot PRX Chronograph is the latest addition to the ever-popular Tissot PRX collection released last year.  The Tissot PRX was a revamp of the original PRX created in 1978. Back then, Tissot released the PRX in an emblematic design with an integrated case and bracelet. The model stood out for its timeless design and sleek slender appearance. Unlike this modern reinterpretation, the original model came in various dial colours and different case shapes.  The original Tissot PRX never had a chance to be in the limelight, as the model was released when Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak in 1972 and Patek Philippe released the Nautilus in 1976. Now, however, I feel like the Tissot PRX (40 205) is getting the undivided attention it deserves.  The latest Tissot PRX is a much-loved timepiece upon its release, with watch fanatics jumping on the bandwagon to get their hands on this piece. While the Tissot PRX is a fantastic watch an...