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Teddy Baldassarre
In the latest installment of our popular Real Collectors Series, we sit down with Mark to chat about his love of watches and how they fit into his military service as a United States Marine.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
From microbrands to legacy Swiss producers, explore the best world timer watches our editorial team has ever reviewed.
Fratello
It’s late afternoon on a Thursday in mid-December when the call comes in: monsters are closing in on Nazaré. State-of-the-art satellite technology has detected the perfect kinetic sweep across the Atlantic, creating ideal conditions. This monster swell is heading straight for a small fishing village two hours north of Lisbon. But it’s not alone in […] Visit Photo Report: Tudor Nazaré Big Wave Challenge 2025 to read the full article.
Fratello
Orient Star unveils three new versions of its flagship F7 Mechanical Moon Phase. Dials in white and navy blue join the regular lineup, while the light blue dial is a limited edition of 190 pieces. Having debuted in 2017, the F7 Mechanical Moon Phase combines three striking elements. The namesake moon phase sits at 6 […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Titan is India's top watch brand, producing more than 15 million watches annually for its domestic market. Now it wants to show it can make truly unique haute horology timepieces for wealthy Indian clients.
Worn & Wound
Every few years, a new independent hits the scene with something that hits just the right notes to get all the factions of the watch world vibrating at the same frequency. However, no recent newcomer has managed to unite the watch echo chamber the way Swiss independent Berneron has. When Berneron unveiled their debut offering, the Mirage, in 2023, it was universally lauded as the most intriguing and refreshing new watch seen in ages. The Mirage was a legitimately unique take on upscale watchmaking, with a striking aesthetic and design narrative as unexpected as its asymmetrical shape and wildly ambitious bespoke movement. The Mirage’s styling was initially met with comparisons to the Cartier Crash, but the reality is its melted case shape was an elegant solution for housing the watch’s impressive mechanics–a case shrink-wrapped around a new caliber that was designed from scratch, free from the rules of traditional movement design. The Mirage was a helluva of a breakout hit; it had mystique, it was technically impressive, and it was different without resorting to arbitrary design choices. The Mirage’s success would be difficult to replicate, but with the Quantième, Berneron has both side-steped the sophomore slump and cemented the reputation of its founder and Creative Director Sylvain Berneron as a true visionary and a generational talent. The Quantième applies Berneron’s virtuosic technicality to a watch that embraces a more traditional look than the Mir...
Time+Tide
When asked to speak on the future of watch retail, our founder Andrew McUtchen certainly didn't hold back - here is what he had to say.The post The Great Watch Retail Reckoning: Andrew McUtchen on community, microbrands, and the end of an era appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
All right, everyone, it’s my turn to tell you about my favorite watches of 2025. With the calendar winding down, it’s remarkable how close the end of the year suddenly feels. The past few weeks have slipped by at an almost unfair pace, but stepping back for a moment makes one thing obvious: it’s been […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Nacho’s Picks From Nomos, Sinn, Tudor, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
After a slow year for complications last year, big brands showed up in force in 2025. Spurred by a number of major anniversaries celebrated by the likes of Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, the year witnessed a range of record-setting and never-before-seen complications. The breadth and ambition of new complicated watches, some from unexpected corners, proved to be one of the defining themes of the year. Within this crowded field, a few stood out. Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – Brandon Moore For collectors who keep a close eye on the record books, the year ended almost as soon as it began. At Watches & Wonders 2025, Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première, a unique wristwatch that immediately became one of the most talked-about watches of the fair. The buzz was justified: the Solaria is the most complicated wristwatch ever made. Developed over eight years, the Solaria leverages 13 patents to bring together 41 complications across two dials. While the headline figure is the sheer number of functions, the Solaria’s true distinction lies in its astronomical indications. Four of its rare complications track the apparent path of the Sun, displaying its position, height, culmination, and declination – as observed from a specific location on Earth. Turning the watch over reveals another first: a celestial object tracker linked to a split-seconds chronograph. Twin rotating sapphire disc...
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaking presented relatively few genuinely new releases in 2025. Many watchmakers instead reintroduced familiar models in new configurations or colourways - an approach typically associated with larger brands. The strongest releases were excellent, but they were few and far between. Our highlights reflect that: Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch stood out for its confidence and momentum, while Petermann Bédat and Raúl Pagès showed there is still room to say something new within the time-only format. Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon – SJX When I first heard about Urban Jürgensen being revived, I was sceptical. Could an investor halfway across the world and a watchmaker busy with his own brand pull it off? As it turned out, they could. The Rosenfields, Andy and Alex, father and son, and Kari Voutilainen, managed to put together a collection of three watches – all impressively conceived and executed – and then deliver a good number of watches in the months since the launch in mid-2025. The flagship of the Urban Jürgensen line-up and clearly its best creation to date is the UJ-1. A tourbillon with remontoir, the UJ-1 is modelled on the Oval pocket watch that was made by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen. The movement instantly feels like it was descended from the Oval, which is a feat considering the disparity in scale. Mr Voutilainen managed to translate many of the key elements of the Oval into wristwatch format, including the “floating” barrel and...
Worn & Wound
I will be the first to admit that selecting the top watches of the year under, over, or between certain price points is an arbitrary exercise and perhaps not all that useful. Still, it’s the end of the year, and the end of year is all about list making (and reflecting on the last 12 months, making goals for the future – but mostly it’s about lists). Figuring out where the “value” is in the current watch market is a challenge, so setting the top price for the “Best Watches Under…” article does actually kind of mean something this year. One of the predominant story lines on our blog, in Instagram and YouTube comments, and at Windup Watch Fairs and other other meetups all year long has been price sensitivity. Specifically, that watches are far too expensive, and we’ve entered a period where you’re now expected to pay more, but receive less. That narrative makes a certain amount of sense when you examine specific sectors of the industry. But I think there are still pockets of great value and excellent design if you look for them and have a somewhat adventurous sensibility. As I looked back at some of my favorite releases of the year that represent what I think of as genuine value, it felt like the $4,000-$5,000 range was the sweet spot, with some great options well below that as well, and this list reflects that trend for the most part. I’ve tried to stick primarily to smaller makers, indies and microbrands, for the purposes of this particular list, b...
Worn & Wound
When I’m planning to leave the house for a full day – whether I’m headed to work or someplace else – I’m a chronic overpacker. To me, there’s peace of mind in knowing I have an extra charger, granola bar, or jacket with me, especially when returning home isn’t easy. Traveling to the office adds an additional layer of expectation when considering a bag, as I bring multiple laptops and a lunch with me most days. I’ve gone back and forth on whether I’m Team Messenger Bag or Team Backpack when it comes to my corporate 9 to 5. I like the significant storage options that a backpack offers and the stability and comfort it provides when walking long distances. Yet messenger bags fit my usual style in a better way, and I like that I can access the main compartments while on the go (not possible with a backpack). I was really intrigued by the Global Briefcase ($149) from Topo Designs as it meant I didn’t have to commit to one camp or the other. I was curious if the brand could do both modalities equally well. My needs in a work bag are very different from my needs in an outdoor bag. The Topo Designs Rover Trail Pack I reviewed in May held all of my gear in a stacked, vertical fashion. I didn’t need to access anything particularly urgently, which meant I loaded the bag from the top down. This sort of set-up isn’t ideal for my work needs though, when I prefer all of my items to have their own space. To test out this bag, I used both carry styles over a few ...
Deployant
Rounding up this year’s list, Peter makes his list for all to read. And as usual we begin with the philosophy behind the series. Dear Santa 2025: Peter makes his wishlist for the year The raison d’etre for these Dear Santa posts was first shared on my post from 2023 and 2024. As it stillRead More
Fratello
The first thing that popped up in my head when laying eyes on the Spring Drive-powered Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058 was “Root Beer.” The colors, shapes, and vibe make me think of that famous GMT watch made by The Crown. It’s a good thing this watch is designed for the U.S. […] Visit Introducing: The Spring Drive-Powered Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Seiko has introduced the Prospex LX GMT SNR058, a luxury-leaning sport watch inspired by the constellation and intended exclusively for the US market. Executed in Zaratsu-polished titanium with Diashield coating, it pairs a richly textured gradient dial with a Spring Drive GMT movement more commonly associated with Grand Seiko. In doing so, the SNR058 blurs the line between Seiko and its grander cousin, inviting comparison not on branding, but on tangible quality. Initial thoughts According to Seiko, this US-exclusive special edition evokes the North America Nebula in the Cygnus constellation, named for its resemblance to the continent. It is, presumably, a coincidence that the dial also recalls a frosted glass of root beer; arguably a more recognisable symbol of the US market than any nebula. Regardless, either reading feels apt for a United States-only edition. On paper, the Prospex LX line blurs the line between the Seiko and its grander cousin. The collection holds up well next to similar watches from Grand Seiko, pairing a more assertive, utilitarian aesthetic with a more cohesive bracelet design. Branding aside, it also presents stronger value proposition thanks to its Diashield-coated titanium case and bracelet; the equivalent models from Grand Seiko come dressed in heavier stainless steel, which scratches (but can also be refinished) more easily. The Prospex LX GMT also benefits from a toolless micro-adjustment system for the bracelet, something increasingly sought...
Seiko launched the Astron in 1969, changing not just the brand’s trajectory but the way watches were made. The first commercially available quartz wristwatch, it arrived in solid gold and cost ¥450,000, about $1,250 at the time, or roughly $10,000 in 2025. Though “vintage” to modern eyes, its design was surprisingly luxurious and quietly radical, blending traditional finishing with industrial design cues in a way only Seiko could achieve. The exterior, however, was not the main story. The caliber 35SQ inside is what rewrote horology. With a quartz oscillator vibrating at 8,192 Hz, it delivered accuracy far beyond the mechanical watches of the day. It was not only a proof-of-concept that pushed horology into the 20th century, it also proved that Seiko was willing to innovate in an industry steeped in tradition. The post [VIDEO] The Seiko Astron SSH151, an Award-Winning Tech-Forward Timepiece appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
When Sotheby’s closed its Fine Watches online auction in London on December 17, the Victory Watch made by James McCabe and presented to Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson by the officers of HMS Victory sold for £152,400, fees included; below the low estimate. The price was unexpected for an object with an unusually intimate Nelson provenance: a gift from his officers that belongs to Nelson’s last weeks on land, before his victory and death at the Battle of Trafalgar, and to the choice he made to keep the watch at home. The Victory. Image – Sothebys (Turner, the battle of Trafalgar) Wikipedia Understanding the Victory The case bears the presentation inscription, “Pres. to Adml. Lord Nelson By the Officers of HMS Victory Aug 20 1805”. That date sits in the hinge of his final summer. Nelson had returned to England after a long, grinding command, and the country treated him as a national hero. He slipped away to Merton Place in Surrey to live, briefly, in the domestic scene he valued: a house shaped around his wife, Emma Hamilton, their daughter Horatia, and the familiar ritual of guests, dinners, and the small civilities of being ashore. The officers who commissioned the watch gave it to the man they knew at sea, and to the man they sensed existed elsewhere; the man who also wanted beauty, music, and calm within reach. Within a fortnight the strategic situation tightened. News that the French and Spanish fleets had combined at Cádiz brought recall. On September 14, 1805,...
Worn & Wound
A few years ago (almost two years to the day, in fact) I picked up my James Lamb Origin Series. It’s a watch I had become kind of obsessed with in the months leading up to my purchase, and I’m happy to say that two years into ownership, long after the supposed honeymoon period would have been due to end, I’m still every bit as excited about it as I was on the day it arrived. There are a number of reasons for which we might connect to any particular watch: the aesthetics, the way it wears physically, the way it makes you feel when you wear it, and certainly the philosophy of the maker or brand behind it. I found the Origin Series watches to not only be incredibly beautiful, but the idea that these were handmade objects, pieced together in the traditional way by true artisans was something that always excited me. Because of the handmade nature of Lamb’s work, that work is sometimes a little slow. He doesn’t participate in the traditional new watch release cycle that so much of the industry is beholden to. So I, along with many other admirers of his work, have been patiently waiting for whatever it is that would come next. Recently, we got our answer in the new Linea Edition. The Linea represents a fairly dramatic uptick in ambition for Lamb – this is not an iteration what we’ve already seen in the Origin Series, but something a little bit bolder. Still, it’s very recognizable as a “James Lamb” and adheres to the same underlying ideas that made those fir...
SJX Watches
In the run-up to the holidays, Seiko facelifts its high-spec, multi-function quartz watch with the Astron GPS Solar refs. SSJ039 and SSH187 - limited editions of its satellite-linked models. While not available in stores until January, the new references make their public debut almost exactly 56 years to the day when the original Astron, the world’s first quartz wristwatch, was launched on December 25, 1969. Initial thoughts Despite pioneering efforts to develop quartz watches in Switzerland, and the commercialisation of category-defining products like the Swatch, the alpine nation has tended to lag a step behind its rivals from the land of the rising sun when it comes to quartz technology. As quartz watches matured and the underlying technology became commoditised, much of the Swiss watch industry redoubled its focus on mechanical watches, seemingly content to cede quartz leadership to brands like Seiko and Citizen. For their part, the dominant Japanese brands have continued to develop quartz watches with conscientious enthusiasm, bringing solar charging, radio frequency and satellite-based connectivity, and ultra-precise oscillators to maturity. In that context, the Seiko Astron is the embodiment of more than half a century of quartz leadership, and combines several of the brand’s strengths in two distinct limited edition models. Though the four-figure prices may come as a shock to buyers more familiar with offerings from brands like Apple, Garmin, and Casio, the A...
Teddy Baldassarre
When you think of the Omega Speedmaster, the first thing that comes to mind is likely the brand’s golden child, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional. It’s a modern grail with its NASA connection, and its intertwined history with the Moon landing and space exploration is its calling card. But today, we’re looking at a different Speedmaster that has been eschewed from Omega’s current lineup. One that’s a little more playful, a little more unconventional, than the brand’s well-established Moonwatch Professional formula: the Speedmaster Mk40. Down below, I’ll be breaking down the history, context, and all the aesthetic oddities of the watch, all of which work together to create one of the most compelling non-Moonwatch Speedmasters of all time, in my humble opinion. [toc-section heading="Some Speedmaster Context"] Image: S.Song From first glance, the Speedmaster Mk40 that made its debut in the ‘90s defies all the utilitarian, tool-watch-oriented austerity that is the key DNA of the Moonwatch Professional, from its functionality to its experimentation with color, shapes, and typography. But the Mk40 is part of a short-lived and often forgotten legacy of Omega’s experimentation with the Speedmaster formula, before things were so rigidly codified as they are today. It is also important to note that the moniker “Mk40” itself is a completely enthusiast-driven nickname, which Omega itself has never officially used (the brand denotes the different models wi...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Longines Heritage Classic Sector Dial has, in its relatively short time on the market, set itself apart from the rest of the Swiss brand's vintage-inspired Heritage series with its combination of retro charm, understated dimensions, and minimalist aesthetics, all at a very approachable price point, Here is a closer look at the watch, with a brief foray into other recent timepieces that just might have been inspired by its success. [toc-section heading="A Bit of Longines History"] Longines was founded in 1832 in the Swiss Jura town of Saint-Imier by Auguste Agassiz and two partners. Agassiz (above, left) became the sole proprietor in 1846 after both partners, attorneys by trade, retired from the watch business, and shortly thereafter, he brought his nephew, an enterprising economist named Ernest Françillon (above, right), into the company. It was Françillon, in 1867, who moved all of the firm’s various watchmaking disciplines - which were scattered throughout dozens of independent workshops called établisseurs - under one roof, to a factory that was situated in a scenic area called “Les Longines” or “The Long Meadows,” thus giving the company its now-familiar name. In 1889, Francillon registered the famous Longines logo with a winged hourglass - today the world’s oldest unchanged, active logo according to the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO). Among Longines’ many milestones under Françillon’s management were the company’s ...
The holidays in the city demand a certain energy-bold, bright, and ready to move. The G-SHOCK G-STEEL GM5600M-1 fits right into that rhythm. Its iconic square silhouette gets a modern industrial upgrade with polished and textured bezel that plays perfectly against winter layers: think durable overcoats, chunky sweaters, and that just-right pair of boots you wait all year to break out. It’s the watch that looks at home grabbing a peppermint latte in SoHo, catching a cab on Fifth, or heading into a holiday party. If your style leans more analog, the GM2100M-1A delivers that sleek “holidays in the city” vibe on a different wavelength. The octagonal bezel and refined matte finish bring a clean, confident sharpness to any outfit-ideal for gallery hopping in Chelsea, slipping into your favorite speakeasy for a seasonal cocktail, or hitting a downtown dinner dressed for success. It’s the kind of piece that says you appreciate the iconic silhouettes, but live firmly in the present, grounding your fits with a little edge and a lot of character. The post Styled for the Holidays Lookbook with the G-SHOCK G-STEEL Series appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Employment in the Swiss watch industry fell by 1.3% in 2025, the first drop since 2021, according to an industry association report.
Teddy Baldassarre
The PRX stormed onto the scene in 2021 as an intriguing integrated bracelet watch at an approachable price point that had yet to be seen in the category. Four years, later, the Swiss brand has introduced what many would argue should have been offered all along: a sizing sweet-spot 38mm case in Titanium, or the surprise
Fratello
Are you looking to buy an Omega Speedmaster but don’t know where to start? We’re here to help! Over the past 65+ years, Omega has created many variations of one of the world’s most famous chronographs. The classic 42mm Moonwatch has been in the collection since 1965, and to the novice eye, little has changed […] Visit Fratello’s Omega Speedmaster Guide to read the full article.
Time+Tide
These two limited-edition GPS Solar Astrons feature dark titanium cases and textured turquoise dials meant to evoke the cosmos.The post Seiko unveils two new tech-packed Astron limited editions with galaxy-inspired dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Among French watchmakers, few names carry as much heritage and affection as Yema. Founded in 1948 in Morteau, the brand’s history is tied to adventure and innovation, with the Superman diver becoming its most emblematic creation. Over the past decade, Yema has made a remarkable comeback, not only reviving its legendary designs but also re-establishing […]
Time+Tide
Our founder, Andrew McUtchen, lends his voice and horological taste to Teddy's perennially anticipated end-of-year video.The post Teddy Baldassarre assembles 35 watch experts (including our Andrew!) for his 2025 most worn watches of the year wrap-up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Finally, it’s my turn to tell you about my picks for the best watches of 2025. Several of my colleagues have already published theirs. Some chose watches that I’d also scribbled down for my list. Luckily, though, there were many great releases this year, so I’m happy to report that I can still highlight five […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Daan’s Picks From MB&F;, Parmigiani Fleurier, Tissot, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Répétition Souveraine is one of the more unusual minute repeaters on the market, combining classical inspiration with an idiosyncratic technical approach that is unmistakably F.P. Journe. Based on the familiar architecture of the Chronomètre Souverain yet fundamentally reworked to accommodate a striking mechanism, it is neither a conventional integrated repeater nor a simple modular add-on. Launched in 2008 with a conventional dial and briefly the thinnest contemporary minute repeater on the market, the latest iteration of the Répétition Souveraine reveals its workings through a smoked sapphire dial, offering a direct view of its flat gongs and strike train while underscoring François-Paul Journe’s distinctive philosophy of clarity, compactness, and mechanical logic. This is our third encounter with the Répétition Souveraine, having already covered the silver-dial variant and the elusive “Black Label” edition. Almost modular Most independents – and many large brands – rely on a handful of external specialists like Le Cercle des Horlogers or decades-old ebauche stocks for their repeaters. As a result, most repeaters take the same, time-tested, approach with only a few exceptions. Most are integrated designs that put the repeater train, hammers, and gongs on the same level as the rest of the movement. The rejuvenation of mechanical matchmaking during the 1980s and 1990s brought with it demand for systems that brands could add to existing movements. Amo...
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