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Philippe Dufour

The Vallée de Joux independent whose Simplicity, Duality, and Grande Sonnerie set the modern finishing benchmark.

Patek Philippe Introduces New Versions of the Twenty-4 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34 mm Feb 22, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces New Versions of the Twenty-4

Patek Philippe is starting the year on a simple note, with its first releases for 2021 being a trio of additions to the Twenty-4 collection for ladies. One is the Twenty-4 Quartz in rose gold with a brown dial, a variant of the recently introduced Twenty-4 “Manchette”, while the other two are mechanical: new references of the Twenty-4 Automatic with green or gold dials. The green dial of the new Twenty-4 Automatic in steel Initial thoughts With all the hype surrounding the now-discontinued Nautilus ref. 5711/1A, it can be easy to forget that Patek Philippe actually makes a broad range of watches, including a collection for ladies that has now been in the catalogue for over 20 years (though the automatic version only came along in 2018). The new Twenty-4 models are variants of the same, but the automatic Twenty-4 with a green dial is unusual and an appealing alternative to the bestselling and faddish blue dial. While the styling might be uninspiring for a watch enthusiast, the Twenty-4 is ideal for someone who wants a Patek Philippe that’s fuss free, explaining the consistent commercial success of the Twenty-4 over the decades. The Twenty-4 Quartz The Twenty-4 Automatic Both versions of the Twenty-4 are pricey, sitting at the top end of their respective segments. The new Twenty-4 Automatic in steel retails for US$27,796, about the same as the Nautilus ref. 7118/1A for ladies, or the recently-launched Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34 mm. The Twenty-4 has the advantage o...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jul 14, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001

After an extended absence, Patek Philippe’s signature perpetual calendar chronograph is once again available in yellow gold with the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001. The new watch joins the platinum and rose gold versions currently in the catalogue, and is the first perpetual calendar chronograph in yellow gold since the ref. 5970J was discontinued in 2009. Initial thoughts The very first Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph powered by an in-house movement, the ref. 5270 was introduced in 2011 but remains under appreciated, primarily because it isn’t one of the earlier perpetual calendar chronograph that are regarded as “iconic” (namely the refs. 5970, 3970, 2499 and 1518). But the ref. 5270 is excellent, or at least very good, in most tangible aspects. It’s a well-made watch with a smartly-constructed, modern movement inside robust-yet-elegant case of that sort that Patek Philippe excels at. And functionally it is also excellent, especially with the slightly larger calendar windows. Admittedly the movement finishing is not quite artisanal, but it is on par with other high-end brands that produce watches in substantial numbers, like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. It does costs more than what the competition charges for an equivalent watch, but the value of the Patek Philippe brand is tremendous. The ref. 5270J adds the option of a far more classical look to the line up. The combination of a silver dial and yellow gold case is the ...

Omega, Patek Philippe, And Jaeger-LeCoultre: A Contemporary Watch Collector Goes Vintage - Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Apr 5, 2020

Omega, Patek Philippe, And Jaeger-LeCoultre: A Contemporary Watch Collector Goes Vintage - Reprise

To my longtime friends in the watch hobby, and perhaps to regular readers here as well, the mention of my name may conjure up a number of connotations: patron of the independents, fan of A. Lange & Söhne, admirer of Patek Philippe grand complications, and longtime customer of Jaeger-LeCoultre, among other characterizations more or less favorable. But vintage?

3 things you never knew about the Patek Philippe Nautilus Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak … ContinuedThe Dec 22, 2019

3 things you never knew about the Patek Philippe Nautilus

The Patek Philippe Nautilus forms the basis of this historic brand’s sports collection, which rivals the very best in the business. And the genesis of this iconic model shares its history with another legendary sports watch, further cementing the status of the man behind both pieces. Designed by Gérald Genta, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak … ContinuedThe post 3 things you never knew about the Patek Philippe Nautilus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WIN! Some really cool stuff from Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Nomos just by surfing YouTube* Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Nov 30, 2016

WIN! Some really cool stuff from Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Nomos just by surfing YouTube*

If you hadn’t noticed, it’s that time of year when aeroplanes start playing ‘All I Want for Christmas is You’ by Mariah Carey in preparation for take off, and, cruelly, at landing too. It is December. It’s summer in Australia. And it’s giving season at Time+Tide. Last year we had a veritable Santa sack of watch related goodies, … ContinuedThe post WIN! Some really cool stuff from Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Nomos just by surfing YouTube* appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bring a Loupe: A Zenith De Luca, A Patek Philippe Beyer-Signed World Timer, A Carlo Ferrara CF1997 Regulator, And Much More Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet 25696PT Huitieme Perpetual Calendar Sep 4, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Zenith De Luca, A Patek Philippe Beyer-Signed World Timer, A Carlo Ferrara CF1997 Regulator, And Much More

It's been a busy week, Baller, not just with a bunch of new watches being released, but with a phantom island migrating in ways you wouldn't expect an island to, the news that Avocados reverse their sex multiple times a day and, if you're wondering why your car gets so beat up by exposure to rain, no, it's not just that water eventually leads to rust, but that the coating on cars can be destroyed by the electric charge raindrops arrive carrying. Also, physicists may've found dark matter. This is your reminder that no matter how strange you find the world, it's always stranger than that. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Hamilton Cross Country sold for $1,200, the Heuer Titanium Quartz for $340 AUD, the Movado Super Sub Sea for $4,250, the Breitling 810 for $2,750, and the Breitling 815 sells tomorrow. Strays Photo courtesy of Interencheres. RAF Sector clocks were also sometimes known as Operations Room clocks, and this week you've got a trio to choose from—one, two, three—if you're into extremely beautiful and historically important clocks. If you're a horologically-inclined fan of Mos Def and Talib Kweli, here is, I kid you not, a Zenith with the branding "Black, Starr, and Frost" on the dial. For those hankering for an unworn Rolex Platinum President (ref 228236), have at it, and this Audemars Piguet 25696PT Huitieme Perpetual Calendar is such a strange 1990s watch. You can see from the pictures that it's a modular build, given the crown and pushers don't align, an...

Studio Underdog’s new beginnings, Patek Philippe’s lasting legacies, and more record-breaking auction results Time+Tide
Studio Underdog s new beginnings Patek Jun 19, 2026

Studio Underdog’s new beginnings, Patek Philippe’s lasting legacies, and more record-breaking auction results

As I spend most of my week writing about the latest watch releases, it’s easy to fall into the trap of believing the hobby is all about what’s coming next. But every now and then, a week comes along that reminds you just how many different moving parts make up this interesting little world of … Continued

The Gübelin Ellipse: The Often Forgotten Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet Retailer’s Own Timepieces Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Retailer’s Own Timepieces It May 1, 2026

The Gübelin Ellipse: The Often Forgotten Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet Retailer’s Own Timepieces

It took a few years of being a watch enthusiast before I came across my first double-signed watch dial. I remember it was a Universal Geneve White Shadow with the word “Türler” written near the six o’clock position. Having never seen one before, I typed in a quick Google search to see what this had meant and, hours of research later, I came out a new watch collector––one with an eye and appreciation for double-signed watches. Up there with the likes of Cartier, Türler, Tiffany and Co., Mesiter, Trucchi, and other renowned jewelry retailers, Gübelin is a name any collector will frequently stumble upon when shopping for watches of this variety. When I came across this example of a solely Gübelin-branded timepiece, I knew I had to pick it up (especially for the >$100 price tag). This sent me down a rabbit hole of research similar to what the double-signed watches did. I wanted to understand the Gübelin brand and what it did for the world of horology, and I find it only necessary to share what I was able to find with all of you. Brief History of Gübelin Taking roots in 1854, Gübelin started in Lucerne as an independently run watch shop specializing in repairs and sales. The owner and lead watchmaker, Mauritz Breitschmid, would later agree to a partnership deal with young apprentice (and later son-in-law) Eduard Jakob Gübelin, sparking what would become decades of successful international business. As time went on, Gübelin became a powerhouse of the jewelry m...

Just Because: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback Next To Some Classics From Patek Philippe And A. Lange & Söhne Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Chronograph just so Apr 24, 2026

Just Because: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback Next To Some Classics From Patek Philippe And A. Lange & Söhne

Ask people about the most exciting thing they saw at Watches and Wonders, and I'm willing to bet that a few people might just mention something that wasn't even at the show, but rather tucked away in Old Town—the new Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback. And you know what? That's understandable. I mean, the new RRCHF has been the talk of the town since its introduction earlier this month, marking the first release from Rexhepi and his brand in literal years. Years in which the brand has continued to climb in legend, desirability, and hype, thanks to the growing recognition of Rexhepi's previous Akrivia line of watches, as well as icons like the Chronomètre Contemporain I and II. If you came here looking for a lengthy read about the new chronograph, I'll steer you instead to Ben's original article covering the release, which has plenty of words that encapsulate everything around the watch and the history leading up to it. And not to spoil anything, but Mark's working on a deeper, hands-on look at the new watch, hitting Hodinkee this summer. So, during our visit last week to Rexhepi's Atelier Akrivia, we decided to do something fun and expand on Ben's initial write-up, which compares the RRCHF to two iconic, high-end, hand-wound chronographs that seem most similar to the RRCHF in the vein of a classically designed chronograph. So we brought along a Patek Philippe 5170P, as well as an A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Chronograph, just so I could shoot them alongside Rexhepi's chronogra...

Interview - Selective Normalisation in 2026 - Overview of the Watch Industry with Jean-Philippe Bertschy, Head of Vontobel Equity Research Monochrome
Feb 18, 2026

Interview - Selective Normalisation in 2026 - Overview of the Watch Industry with Jean-Philippe Bertschy, Head of Vontobel Equity Research

Each year, this report is eagerly awaited as one of the leading guides (alongside LuxeConsult and Morgan Stanley) for the watchmaking and luxury industry, helping it navigate what can currently be described as choppy waters. Luxury Goods, the annual report by Vontobel Equity Research, has just been published. An extremely detailed analytical compendium covering the past year, […]

Portrait - Defying Gravity… A Conversation with Philippe Delhotal, Creative Director at Hermès Horloger Monochrome
Hermes Sep 11, 2025

Portrait - Defying Gravity… A Conversation with Philippe Delhotal, Creative Director at Hermès Horloger

If there’s one brand – or rather, one house – that defies the laws of gravity, it’s Hermès. Just uttering the name evokes a reaction: it’s the embodiment of absolute luxury. Elegance, lightness, and discretion might be its keys, as Hermès stands as a unique case in a sector currently facing turbulence. No matter: the […]

Dennison Announce a New Collaboration with Patek Philippe Expert John Reardon and Collectability Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Dennison May 6, 2025

Dennison Announce a New Collaboration with Patek Philippe Expert John Reardon and Collectability

It’s no secret that watch design over the past few years has been heavily inspired by timepieces of yesteryear. Many brands today are looking to integrate 20th-century principles into more modern and technologically advanced packages, typically in an effort to keep alive the vintage aesthetics collectors know and love. On the heels of their recent relaunch, Dennison has just announced their first watch collaboration ever, pairing up with horological icon John Reardon and his website Collectability to produce a new model for the brand’s contemporary catalog.  Last year, Dennison, a brand established in 1874, was revived with the help of its new A.L.D. Collection. This assortment of watches was designed by acclaimed watch designer Emmanuel Gueit, known for designing the new Rolex 1908, the Harry Winston Z1, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. Dennison offers these vintage-inspired timepieces for $490 for sunray dials and $690 for stone dials. Their rather affordable prices helped the A.L.D. Collection catch the attention of many collectors, including John Reardon’s.  For those unfamiliar with his experience, Reardon has been a notable figure in horology for years. He began his career at Sotheby’s in 1997, later joining Henri Stern Watch Agency, then spending five years as the International Head of Watches at Christie’s Watches. In 2019, he left Christie’s to launch the Collectability website, aiming to educate collectors on all things Patek Philippe, in add...

In-Depth - The Steel Patek Philippe Cubitus 5821A on the Wrist Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 collection – Oct 30, 2024

In-Depth - The Steel Patek Philippe Cubitus 5821A on the Wrist

This was, by far, the most anticipated launch of the year, but also (and unsurprisingly) the most discussed and commented new release of 2024. In fact, I can’t recall witnessing such an amount of reactions from the watch community since the launch of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 collection – which, for several reasons, shouldn’t […]

3 Annual Calendars from Patek Philippe, Parmigiani Fleurier, and Omega that Only Need Adjusting Once a Year - Reprise Quill & Pad
Parmigiani Fleurier Dec 17, 2023

3 Annual Calendars from Patek Philippe, Parmigiani Fleurier, and Omega that Only Need Adjusting Once a Year - Reprise

The annual calendar is much more practical than a standard calendar, which needs correction in all months with 30 days or less; the annual calendar only needs correcting once a year in February. For owners of this noble yet practical complication, making this adjustment marks a yearly highlight. In celebration of the annual calendar, here are three exciting new models to kick off 2024 in style.

The Return of the Dress Watch! Back from the Brink with 5 Watches from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Chopard, and Montblanc - Reprise Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Chopard May 6, 2023

The Return of the Dress Watch! Back from the Brink with 5 Watches from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Chopard, and Montblanc - Reprise

“Dress watches” were initially just “watches.” While their popularity may have dwindled over the years as more casual and sporty watches have taken off, many brands have stayed faithful to the concept of the dress watch as Martin Green highlights here with five beautiful examples from 2021.

3 Annual Calendars From Patek Philippe, Parmigiani Fleurier, And Omega That Will Only Need One Adjustment In 2023 Quill & Pad
Parmigiani Fleurier Jan 18, 2023

3 Annual Calendars From Patek Philippe, Parmigiani Fleurier, And Omega That Will Only Need One Adjustment In 2023

The annual calendar is much more practical than a standard calendar, which needs correction in all months with 30 days or less; the annual calendar only needs correcting once a year in February. For owners of this noble yet practical complication, making this adjustment marks a yearly highlight. In celebration of the annual calendar, here are three exciting new models to kick off 2022 in style.