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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Interview – Konstantin Chaykin on Making the World’s Thinnest Mechanical Watch, and the new ThinKing Mystery Monochrome
Konstantin Chaykin Apr 2, 2026

Interview – Konstantin Chaykin on Making the World’s Thinnest Mechanical Watch, and the new ThinKing Mystery

In 2024, indie watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin unveiled the ThinKing watch as a bold attempt to set a world record: an exceptionally thin mechanical wristwatch measuring just 1.65mm. Holding this watch in your hand is simply incredible – the extreme slenderness is astonishing, and the technical achievement behind it is truly impressive. Since then, he has […]

Konstantin Chaykin Unveils the ThinKing Mystery SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Apr 2, 2026

Konstantin Chaykin Unveils the ThinKing Mystery

Konstantin Chaykin unveils the ultimate version of his ultra-thin opus, the ThinKing Mystery. A 12-piece limited edition that refines the ideas from his original prototype, the ThinKing has reached maturity. The fact that Mr Chaykin achieved this without the help of big-budget research and developments facilities is a testament to the Moscow-based watchmaker’s technical prowess. The thoughtful process of updating the ThinKing platform prior to commercialisation speaks highly of his engineering rigour. Initial thoughts We covered the first ThinKing prototype when it launched two years ago in the fall of 2024. The timepiece remains to this day the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, measuring just 1.65 mm from top to case back. A staggering 1.65 mm thickness. The ThinKing implemented a number of interesting mechanical choices and made some compromises to fit an entire timekeeper to fit in a meagre 1.65 mm-thick space. Like other ultra-thin record-chasers, the case doubles as the movement mainplate, making the ThinKing, in a sense, a raw movement bound to a strap. To reduce the height of the oscillator, its components were spread out horizontally. The barrel was rethought to incorporate a click wheel inside the mainspring arbour, shaving precious height. The first prototype was cheating a little too, since it could not be set or wound without a separate docking module called the Palanking. Compared to other ultra-thin watches, which require (at most) a pen-like winding and...

The Watches Worn On The NASA Artemis II Mission Fratello
Omega Speedmaster […] Visit Apr 2, 2026

The Watches Worn On The NASA Artemis II Mission

This month began with the exciting launch of Artemis II on April 1st, 2026, at 22:35:12 (UTC). I stayed up to watch the launch (00:35 here) and witness this next chapter in NASA’s Moon exploration. The space-qualified watches It’s the first human-crewed lunar voyage since 1972. During that mission, all astronauts wore the Omega Speedmaster […] Visit The Watches Worn On The NASA Artemis II Mission to read the full article.

Stéphane Pierre’s Inaugural L’Impétrant is Bi-Retrograde SJX Watches
Apr 2, 2026

Stéphane Pierre’s Inaugural L’Impétrant is Bi-Retrograde

A new independent voice emerges with the L’Impétrant, the debut watch from Stéphane Pierre, combining a bi-retrograde time display with an architecturally distinctive movement. Put together by an all-star roster of specialists, the L’Impétrant is a fresh take on a familiar format. Initial thoughts The central question with any debuting independent is whether ambition matches execution. Stéphane Pierre’s L’Impétrant is quirky and eccentric - and just as importantly seems well made thanks to the efforts of some 20 contributing specialists across fields such as movement construction, machining, electroplating, stamping and finishing. Given the evergreen popularity of the high-end, time-only format, it may well find its audience. The L’Impétrant’s visual staple is a set of enormous 19 mm retrograde hands - one for the minutes and the other for the hours. The bi-retrograde complication is no longer uncommon, but The L’Impétrant’s overlapping arrangement of the hands, and the luxurious construction of the mechanism, is unusual, helping it stand out within this niche. The mastermind behind the L’Impétrant has had an unusual career. Stéphane Pierre originally trained as a mechanical engineer and, intriguingly, has spent time working for both the Swatch Group and in the military sector. The L’Impétrant is essentially a very high-end time-only watch, and as such it enters a crowded market. However, rather than just developing a basic time-only watch...

Fratello Talks: Watches We Personally Love But Would Not Recommend Fratello
Apr 2, 2026

Fratello Talks: Watches We Personally Love But Would Not Recommend

We all have watches we absolutely love but would hesitate to recommend to someone else. That might sound contradictory at first, but spend enough time in this hobby, and it starts to make sense. Not every great watch is universally great. Some require a certain mindset, a specific wrist, or simply a willingness to embrace […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watches We Personally Love But Would Not Recommend to read the full article.

Introducing – The New and Cheeky Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic Monochrome
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic Nivada Grenchen Apr 1, 2026

Introducing – The New and Cheeky Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic

Nivada Grenchen has always seemed like a brand that embraces the fun side of life, and its latest release, the Antarctic Erotic, is proof of that. In watchmaking, erotic or animated scenes have existed for centuries, often hidden away and revealed only on demand. Nivada uses this heritage with a lighter, more contemporary tone without […]

Cleguer Debuts with Proprietary ‘Innate’ Escapement SJX Watches
Breguet s natural escapement Apr 1, 2026

Cleguer Debuts with Proprietary ‘Innate’ Escapement

In the run-up to Watches & Wonders, a new crop of emergent independents is making its debut. But even within a crowded field, the Cleguer Inspiration One manages to stand out with an ambitious proprietary escapement and clever construction. It’s a promising start for founder Mathieu Cleguer, an engineer who’s had a hand in developing several calibres for well-known independent brands. Initial thoughts The artisanal, highly finished time-only watch is a well-worn trope among independents, but occasionally one breaks from the pattern. The Inspiration One from Cleguer Horology is one such watch. Mathieu Cleguer is an industry veteran who has worked as a movement construction consultant and now produces watches under his own name. The opening salvo in what is planned to be a larger ‘Inspiration’ series designed to explore alternative escapements, the Inspiration One is built around the so-called innate escapement, a fresh twist on Breguet’s natural escapement. The system is Mathieu Cleguer’s own design, and from initial analysis it exhibits a surprising degree of ingenuity and is original in its execution. Discreet signature on the interior bezel. The open design - an off-centre dial with exposed escapement - is a familiar arrangement among independents, but the delicacy of the components gives it a refined quality. The 38.5 mm case is well-proportioned, though the 12 mm height borders on tall. While there’s room to develop a more cohesive design language goi...

The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic - A Classic With A Secret Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic - Apr 1, 2026

The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic - A Classic With A Secret

Nivada Grenchen often blends heritage with irreverence, but its latest release surprises even more. Based on the Antarctic platform, the new Antarctic Erotic 38mm updates a familiar design with something completely different, hidden from plain sight. At first glance, it’s a classic, everyday watch. Underneath, though, a playful, subversive detail is revealed only to the […] Visit The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic - A Classic With A Secret to read the full article.

Introducing – Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved Limited Edition GBCF997 Monochrome
Seiko s high-end brand created Apr 1, 2026

Introducing – Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved Limited Edition GBCF997

Founded in 1974, Credor is Seiko’s high-end brand created to showcase Japanese haute horlogerie, artistic finishing and ultra-thin watchmaking. Originally exclusive to Japan, Credor began its international expansion in 2024 with the launch of the Locomotive model, a watch originally designed by Genta, and will consolidate its position as it will soon be exhibited at […]

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: Henry VIII and the Birth of Royal Time Worn & Wound
Tudor England Mar 31, 2026

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: Henry VIII and the Birth of Royal Time

From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires. During Henry VIII’s reign (1509–1547), portable watches as we know them today had yet to emerge in significant numbers. Timekeeping was dominated by grand and stationary mechanisms, with tower clocks or ornate table pieces, serving both practical and symbolic purposes as a show of wealth and status. Watches, if present at all, were nascent and extremely rare. The first clocks and watches were expensive luxuries and only in the reach of royalty and landed gentry. There was, however, a sufficient demand for these items in the Tudor royal court which spread to a prosperous London. The beginnings of the horological industry were probably first initiated by King Henry VIII. During this period there was somewhat of a technical revolution, starting with the invention of the printing press which changed the way people received information. This filtered through to the court where there was a revoluti...

World’s Oldest Watch Store Acquired by Patek Philippe SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Mar 31, 2026

World’s Oldest Watch Store Acquired by Patek Philippe

With a history dating back 266 years, Beyer Chronometrie is the world’s oldest watch store, but not for much longer: the store has been sold to Patek Philippe and will close at the end of the year. This turn of events echoes the sale of Bucherer to Rolex three years ago. Come next year, the store with its prime location on Zurich’s posh Bahnhofstrasse will be replaced by an enlarged Patek Philippe boutique. The news was first reported by Swiss newspapers including Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ) and Tages-Anzeiger. The sale is perhaps not that surprising given the store’s longtime owner, René Beyer, passed away in 2025 without an heir. The business was passed onto Beyer’s sister, Muriel Zahn-Beyer, who has no children of her own either. According to Ms Zahn-Beyer, speaking to the NZZ, the late René Beyer already planned for the sale prior to his death, having sold a minority stake in the business to Patek Philippe in 2024. Patek Philippe and Beyer have long been partners; in fact, Beyer is also the world’s oldest Patek Philippe retailer, having started carrying the brand around 1842, just a few years after the watchmaker was established in 1839. As a consequence, Beyer was perhaps one of the watchmaker’s most significant retailers, despite having only one store. With the takeover, the multi-brand section of the Beyer store will close, while its existing Patek Philippe boutique will be enlarged. This also means a third of Beyer’s current employees will be kept o...

Introducing: The Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7037 Fratello
Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7037 Mar 31, 2026

Introducing: The Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7037

Last year was Breguet’s 250th anniversary, and the brand treated us to many beautiful new watches to mark the occasion. However, it also made me think about how its new leadership would handle the regular collection of Breguet watches. We see the first results today, with the new Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7037, a previously […] Visit Introducing: The Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7037 to read the full article.

Complicated Collectors: Sir David Salomons SJX Watches
Breguet watches Mar 31, 2026

Complicated Collectors: Sir David Salomons

“How can you make a watch, my dear boy?” His aunt, Jeanette Salomons, then under medical care in St. Leonards-on-Sea, wrote back to her nephew, David Lionel Salomons, in early March 1867, shortly before her death. He was 16, orphaned since his father Philip’s death earlier that year. His mother, Emma Abigail Montefiore, had died when he was eight. At the time, Salomons lived with his uncle, Sir David Salomons (1st Baronet), the Lord Mayor of London, at Great Cumberland Place, near Marble Arch, making frequent visits to a nearby watchmaker’s shop, where he learned to use a lathe and to file metal to tolerances measured in a fraction of an inch. Fifty years later, that teenage training would allow him to assemble the most comprehensive collection of Breguet watches in history. Broomhill Salomons inherited the expansive Broomhill estate in 1873 when he was 22. His uncle, the first Sir David Salomons, had died without children, and the baronetcy passed to his nephew along with the estate near Tunbridge Wells. The house stood on substantial grounds, and Salomons began altering it almost immediately. Broomhill from the south, a photograph by Sir David Lionel Salomons, 1868 (cropped). Album 19, Richard Levy Family Archive. Image – By permission of the Salomons Museum. He built workshops housing machine tools like lathes, drill presses, and milling equipment. Then came electrical apparatus. Then storage for chemicals and photographic equipment. By the 1890s, the workshop...

Introducing: The Bianchet UltraFino Rotondo - The Brand’s First-Ever Round Watch Fratello
Mar 30, 2026

Introducing: The Bianchet UltraFino Rotondo - The Brand’s First-Ever Round Watch

A round case is hardly a radical idea in watchmaking. For Bianchet, though, it absolutely is. At Watches and Wonders 2026, the brand will present the UltraFino Rotondo, and while it clearly belongs to the same family as the watch we’ve previously known as the UltraFino, this isn’t just a simple reshaping exercise. It marks […] Visit Introducing: The Bianchet UltraFino Rotondo - The Brand’s First-Ever Round Watch to read the full article.

Holthinrichs Begins their Tenth Anniversary Celebration with a Pair of Limited Editions in the LAB Series Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Begins their Tenth Anniversary Mar 30, 2026

Holthinrichs Begins their Tenth Anniversary Celebration with a Pair of Limited Editions in the LAB Series

It’s hard to believe, but Holthinrichs celebrates their tenth anniversary this year. It was ten years ago when brand founder Michiel Holthinrichs was completing his graduation project in architecture, that soon-to-be client found him online and requested a watch commission for his upcoming wedding. The watch Michiel would make eventually became the first production Holthinrichs, the Ornament 1, and the brand was off to the races.  That first watch was powered by a Peseux 7001, one of the most tried and true manually wound calibers ever made. It’s a true workhorse and has been adopted by brands large and small for years, and someday when the history of the microbrand is written, the Peseux 7001 will almost certainly have its own dedicated chapter. Its calling card, in addition to its slender profile which allows for great flexibility in design, is the placement of a small seconds hand at the 6:00 position, a design element that serves as the inspiration for the new Signature LAB 1.S, one of two limited editions launched this week to celebrate ten years of Holthinrichs Watches.  The Signature LAB 1.S follows last year’s Ornament LAB 1.24, which remains one of the most exciting watches I’ve ever reviewed for the website. There are a lot of things about that watch that are special, but chief among them is the beautiful 3D printed titanium case. Holthinrichs has been a real leader in 3D printing within the watch industry over the last decade, and this case design refl...