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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

A Wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grand Seiko Mar 9, 2026

A Wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026

Each year I find it surprisingly difficult to crystalise what I want to see from Watches & Wonders – perhaps I find it hard to hope for things I know will never come. Sometimes dreams aren’t logistically possible. For example, a compact Spring Drive chronograph probably isn’t reasonable given Grand Seiko already has its hands full scaling production of another new Spring Drive movement. At other times, imagination is bound by brand strategy: Cartier could easily steal the show with a quartz Crash Must priced along the same lines as a Tank Must – but never will. But I believe that the following watches, which I’d like to see from Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko and Credor, and Tudor are plausible enough to hope for. The following images were created without the use of generative AI. Patek Philippe In 2023, Patek Philippe launched the ref. 5316/50P, a minute repeating tourbillon with retrograde perpetual calendar and smoked sapphire dial. It remains among the brand’s best complicated offerings, other than the ref. 6301p, at least in my view. Last year Patek Philippe followed up with the ref. 6159G, which featured a smoked sapphire dial and the same perpetual calendar on a more pedestrian base movement. But if there is one reference more deserving of the smoked sapphire treatment than any other, it is the ref. 5236p in-line perpetual calendar, as imagined below in platinum. In 2021, Patek Philippe revived the historic in-line perpetual calendar, which is strongly asso...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger (39mm) Vs. Longines Spirit Pilot Fratello
Christopher Ward C65 Dune Mar 8, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger (39mm) Vs. Longines Spirit Pilot

Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Last year, Tudor added a new 36mm size and a beige-dial option to its entry-level Ranger lineup. In November, we put it up against the Christopher Ward C65 Dune, and the Tudor won by quite a big margin. You could say it was an unfair match, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger (39mm) Vs. Longines Spirit Pilot to read the full article.

Unimatic Releases The Modello Cinque UT5-TANC Created With Nigel Cabourn and The Armoury Fratello
Unimatic Mar 7, 2026

Unimatic Releases The Modello Cinque UT5-TANC Created With Nigel Cabourn and The Armoury

Unimatic has been dropping one new release after another in 2026. While the year is only two months old, we have already seen quite a few interesting watches from the Italian brand. Its latest collaborative effort sees Unimatic partnering with fashion brand Nigel Cabourn and exclusive retailer The Armoury. This is the second collaboration between […] Visit Unimatic Releases The Modello Cinque UT5-TANC Created With Nigel Cabourn and The Armoury to read the full article.

The 10 Most Important Vintage Digital Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 6, 2026

The 10 Most Important Vintage Digital Watches

Digital watches - at least, those of the electronic variety - have only been around for just over half a century at this point, which is a relatively brief moment in the totality of watch history. Nevertheless, they have exerted in that time an outsized influence on the technological and design evolution of the watch industry as well as on the overall culture. As the term “vintage” has been widely interpreted these days to describe any object more than 20 years old, here is our list of the 10 most important “vintage” digital watches (including a handful of worthy analog-digital models). And good news for fans of their retro style: many of them still live on in some form today.  [toc-section heading="Breitling Emergency (1995)"] Introduced in 1995, the Breitling Emergency is literally a watch that has saved lives. The first watch with a built-in micro-transmitter that operated on an international air distress frequency, enabling a pilot to contact search-and-rescue teams after an emergency or crash landing. In 2015, after the original had racked up many notable exploits, Breitling launched the second-generation Emergency II, which added a dual-frequency personal locator beacon (PLB), that can both issue alerts as well as guide rescuers to the wearer’s location by accessing a network of satellites and ground receiving stations. The analog-digital display, powered by Breitling’s thermocompensated SuperQuartz movement, offers an array of indicators including 1...

The Seiko SNA414 Gold Flightmaster: A Gilded Take on an Enthusiast Classic Worn & Wound
Seiko SNA414 Gold Flightmaster Mar 6, 2026

The Seiko SNA414 Gold Flightmaster: A Gilded Take on an Enthusiast Classic

The Seiko SNA411 has been an icon of the watch industry for years. Frequently appearing on “Best Affordable Watches” lists, it’s no wonder Seiko’s other two variants would eventually catch the eye of collectors as well. The SN413 is far and away the most sought-after variant of the Flightmaster formula, but what about the often overlooked SNA414? I’ll be the first to admit that gold-tone watches are typically not in habitual rotation within my collection––aside from a few special pieces––but that doesn’t mean there’s not a lot to enjoy about this model. What makes the SNA414 a good candidate for your next acquisition? Let’s find out. The SNA414 History and Design Nailing down a definite release date for the SNA414 is difficult, but according to numerous blogs, press releases, and wristwatch websites, it appears this variant began production sometime between late 2007 and early 2008. I’m unsure whether all three variants of the lineup were released at the same time, but from sources consulted online, it appears they were at least announced and brought to market around the same time. I must note that the name “Flightmaster” may confuse a few collectors out there who may have seen another model of Seiko’s catalog nicknamed with the same moniker. In the 1990s, the first iteration of the Flightmaster was released with the 7T34 movement. The -6A09 variant is technically the first gold Flightmaster the brand produced, making the subject of this art...

26 Marvelous Moonphase Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 6, 2026

26 Marvelous Moonphase Watches

The tracking and recording of time has always been inextricably linked with the mysterious motions of the heavenly bodies, primarily that of the sun around which Earth revolves and of the moon, Earth’s own satellite, whose monthly trek around our planet has inspired astronomers, poets, navigators, and yes, watchmakers to explore and understand its unique place in our cosmos. Watchmakers over the years have expressed their fascination with Luna, both its romantic and scientific aspects, in some of their most creative and innovative timepieces. Here are 26 of our favorite and best moonphase watches available now that we think shine particularly bright. [toc-section heading="A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase"] Price: On Request, Case size: 38.5mm, Thickness: 10.2mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Manually Wound L121.3 The iconic Lange 1, unveiled in 1994 as the flagship of the revived A. Lange & Söhne brand, has been the wellspring of numerous creative variations and additional complications, among them this elegantly appointed model that marries an ultra-precise moon-phase display with an ingenious day-night indicator. The former’s gold moon waxes and wanes over a star-dappled blue disk and tracks the actual lunar cycle with near pinpoint accuracy, requiring adjustment just once every 122.6 years. The watch’s 38.5-mm case houses the German watchmaker’s manufacture Caliber L.121.3, whose luxurious, traditional Saxon deco...

Introducing – A New Red Grape Dial for the Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Monochrome
Raymond Weil Mar 6, 2026

Introducing – A New Red Grape Dial for the Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage

Following the success of the Millesime collection, a series of vintage-inspired, 1930s-based watches, Raymond Weil went on to revamp one of its older collections, the Toccata. For nearly 50 years, the Toccata has explored the realms of shaped dress watches, finding inspiration in classically composed music. But at the end of 2025, RW presented the Toccata Heritage, […]

Subprime Reporting? Thoughts On The Recent Morgan Stanley/Swatch Group Controversy Fratello
Swatch Mar 6, 2026

Subprime Reporting? Thoughts On The Recent Morgan Stanley/Swatch Group Controversy

Morgan Stanley Investment Management published its Ninth Annual Swiss Watcher on February 19th. The report dives deep into the commercial performance of the Swiss watch market on a brand-by-brand level. I assume very few watch enthusiasts read the whole thing, but one table is rather famous: the top 50 Swiss watch brands ranked by turnover. […] Visit Subprime Reporting? Thoughts On The Recent Morgan Stanley/Swatch Group Controversy to read the full article.

Reviewing The Zeitwerk Date From A. Lange & Söhne WatchAdvice
Ming one Mar 5, 2026

Reviewing The Zeitwerk Date From A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk Date is not your normal watch, but that is exactly why we love it! We go hands-on to appreciate it in more detail. What We Love The colour combination of the pink gold and grey dial The movement! How could you not love it? The digital display makes the dial highly legible What We Don’t It is a larger version that won’t suit all wrists Being gold, it is not a daily wearer The crystal does have the ability to reflect the light against the darker dial Overall Rating: 9.1 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 When A. Lange  &  Söhne debuted the Zeitwerk in 2009, it didn’t just add another complication — it redefined how time could be displayed mechanically. Inspired by Dresden’s opera-house clock, the Zeitwerk fused architectural design with digital display, becoming one of modern watchmaking’s boldest statements. The movement, dial layout, and case proportions were conceived as a single, uncompromising idea. And for years, that idea remained (thankfully) almost stubbornly pure. Which is precisely why the introduction of the Zeitwerk Date marked a significant moment in the model’s evolution. Adding a date to a watch so resolved in its symmetry and identity is not as simple as just plonking a date window on the dial. It risks upsetting the balance that made the original so compelling in the first place. The solution was a peripheral date disc that rotates around the outside o...

Introducing – Kurono Tokyo Launches its First Diver, a Two-in-One Watch with Sealed Outer Case Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo Launches Mar 5, 2026

Introducing – Kurono Tokyo Launches its First Diver, a Two-in-One Watch with Sealed Outer Case

When you think about Kurono Tokyo, the side-brand of Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, you should picture something compact and elegant in your mind. Watches often focus on traditional crafts, with restrained cases and classically Japanese. The sportiest models the brand has ever created were mid-century-styled chronographs. Well, this is about to change as Hajime […]

Hands-On With The Collaborative Série R01 Depancel × DAMS Lucas Oil Fratello
Mar 5, 2026

Hands-On With The Collaborative Série R01 Depancel × DAMS Lucas Oil

Depancel has made a name for itself by creating an extensive collection of race-inspired chronographs. For its newest effort, the brand teamed up with an actual racing team to become an active partner in modern motorsports. The Série R01 Depancel × DAMS Lucas Oil fuses the retro silhouette of the Depancel Série R01 and the […] Visit Hands-On With The Collaborative Série R01 Depancel × DAMS Lucas Oil to read the full article.

Felix the Cat Pilots Bremont’s Latest SJX Watches
Bremont s Latest Bremont’s Altitude Mar 5, 2026

Felix the Cat Pilots Bremont’s Latest

Bremont’s Altitude MB Meteor Felix the Cat puts one of military aviation’s most mischievous mascots on the wrist in a 42 mm titanium pilot’s watch that turns the tradition of wartime nose art into a wearable 500-piece limited edition. Inspired by on the brand’s long-running Martin-Baker collaboration, the Felix edition pays tribute to the iconic cartoon mascot of the US Navy’s VFA-31 “Tomcatters” fighter squadron. Initial thoughts Bremont built its brand on military aviation-themed watches, and the Altitude MB Meteor proves it understands the cultural hallmarks of this niche better than most. The Felix edition taps into the enduring tradition of nose art - the cartoon characters, pin-ups, and mascots that have adorned military aircraft for over a century - drawing on one of the US Navy’s most recognisable icons. Creating visual coherence, the depiction of Felix is outlined in yellow, echoing the black-and-yellow stripes of the balance end of the seconds hand, which is meant to evoke an ejection seat grab handle. This has long been a Bremont motif, and is actually one of the brand’s strongest calling cards, dating back to the original 2007 collaboration with British ejection seat maker Martin-Baker (hence the ‘MB’ designation in the model name). The Altitude MB Meteor is the latest mission in this campaign, and retains the dual-crown architecture and textured case band of the original. That said, several details of the 42 mm case have been changed,...

Introducing – Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Mar 5, 2026

Introducing – Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa

Parmigiani Fleurier’s luxury sports watch collection, the Tonda PF, was introduced in 2021. A refined, minimalist interpretation of the luxury sports watch, the Tonda PF collection is home to several complications. Originally available in 40 and 42mm case sizes, the brand responded to requests for more compact, unisex case sizes and, in 2022, introduced a […]

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Revival A3643 Fratello
Zenith Defy Revival A3643 During Mar 5, 2026

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Revival A3643

During LVMH Watch Week in Milan, I was especially interested in the new Zenith releases. It is no secret that I love Zenith. The brand has managed to amaze me time and again with releases that combine the best in watch design with its legendary calibers. To my surprise, for this year’s LVMH Watch Week, […] Visit Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Revival A3643 to read the full article.

Hands-on – Nomos Goes Precious, with the Elegant Tangente Gold and Ludwig Gold (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Nomos Goes Precious Mar 4, 2026

Hands-on – Nomos Goes Precious, with the Elegant Tangente Gold and Ludwig Gold (Incl. Video)

Every brand at one point dreamt of having an icon on their hands. A cornerstone model that stands the test of time, design trends, and, more importantly, captures the hearts of fans and collectors worldwide, indefinitely. Watches like the Lange 1, the Submariner, the Nautilus, the Speedmaster or the Royal Oak. For Nomos, even though […]

Bangalore Watch Company Review: India's Horological Frontier Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 4, 2026

Bangalore Watch Company Review: India's Horological Frontier

When surveying the horological landscape, most roads lead back to Switzerland, Germany, or Japan. But there is a burgeoning watchmaking scene emerging in India of all places and it certainly deserves our attention. Here we are going to adjust our loupe to the vibrant, burgeoning powerhouse that is Indian horology, specifically the microbrand Bangalore Watch Company. When you survey the broader horological landscape today, microbrands have become the absolute frontier of enthusiast watchmaking. These small independents are giving collectors access to serious mechanical specifications and originality without the traditional luxury markups. India is finally translating its massive cultural and technological footprint into this segment of watch collecting, and Bangalore Watch Company appears to be at the forefront of this transition. In this article, we’ll take a deep dive into what makes these watches so unique and what you need to know before you add one to your collection. [toc-section heading="Filling the Void After HMT"] To truly understand what you’re getting with Bangalore Watch Company, you have to understand the massive void it stepped into. For decades, the Indian watch market had been dominated by state-run enterprise Hindustan Machine Tools, better known as HMT (the undisputed king of South Asian watchmaking during the 1960s and 80s). Estimates suggest that HMT’s lifetime production exceeded a staggering one hundred million timepieces, generating an appetite ...

News – Tad Kozh, an Award for New Talents Mixed with Artistic Crafts Limited Editions Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Mar 4, 2026

News – Tad Kozh, an Award for New Talents Mixed with Artistic Crafts Limited Editions

It seems that promoting traditional watchmaking, its crafts and techniques, to protect watchmaking know-how and the women and men behind it, as well as supporting the emergence of new talents, has become quite a recurring theme these days. Don’t get us wrong, we most certainly encourage initiatives such as the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for […]

Credor Eichi II Review: High-End Minimalist Elegance from Japan Teddy Baldassarre
Credor Mar 3, 2026

Credor Eichi II Review: High-End Minimalist Elegance from Japan

You’ve heard of Seiko. By now, you’ve heard of Grand Seiko. But Credor, for many enthusiasts outside of Japan, remains mostly a mystery, despite its connection to both. But for those who are aware of Credor, it represents a Holy Grail of high-horological craftsmanship worthy of its venerated designation as “Japan’s Patek Philippe,” and perhaps no single timepiece represents its signature balance of technical complexity and sublime simplicity of design than the Credor Eichi II. [toc-section heading="Credor History"]  The legend of Credor began in 1974, when it was launched as a luxury offshoot of parent brand Seiko, initially to produce exclusively precious-metal watches. The name, which became official in the 1980s,  is a Japanified version of the French phrase "Crêt D'or," which translates as “pinnacle of gold.” This lofty claim is visualized in the now-iconic triple-peaked logo capped by three stars. Throughout the ‘90s, Credor watches (like Grand Seiko watches, before that sub-brand’s emergence as a separate, independent brand in 2017), were co-branded, with both the Credor and Seiko logos on their dials. Also like Grand Seiko (the first of which was made way back in 1960), Credor products were sold only exclusively in Japan. In the early 2000s, well ahead of Grand Seiko’s more famous coming-out party, Credor became a standalone brand, hosting all of the Japanese watchmaking giant’s forays into haute horlogerie as well as some very impressive hi...