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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.
15 Of The Best Starter Watches For Different Types of Enthusiasts Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 3, 2025

15 Of The Best Starter Watches For Different Types of Enthusiasts

The choice of where to begin a watch collection might just be the most personal decision you ever make in your collecting journey. Today, I will be acting as your watch inspiration fairy godmother and offer up what I think is a delectable platter of best starter watches to choose from for those gearing up to take the plunge into this hobby. Some rules of the road: today, I’m aiming for reasonably attainable watches that I think are suitable for confident beginners. My picks are more geared towards those who have already been bitten by the watch-collecting bug and have surpassed the “will I actually wear a watch regularly” conundrum. This is a necessary phase; we all go through it, but from now on, I will assume that you, dear reader, if you’ve found yourself here, that you are pretty damn confident that you want to wear a watch proudly on a daily basis. So without further ado, let’s get into the watches, shall we? Best GADA Starter Watch Contenders Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic   Case: 40mm Movement: 8210 Automatic Water Resistance: 50 meters (still water swimming) Price: $356.25 As an entry point into mechanical watches, Citizen and Seiko are really neck-in-neck on offering some of the best value for the price, with many solid automatic models available for under $500. These Japanese heavy hitters are really in a class of their own. But among the rather extensive contemporary catalog of Citizen watches, its Tsuyosa line offers the most versatility and GADA potenti...

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Introducing – The new Cushion-Shaped Voutilainen KV20i Reversed CS Monochrome
Voutilainen Oct 3, 2025

Introducing – The new Cushion-Shaped Voutilainen KV20i Reversed CS

Kari Voutilainen is regarded as one of the greatest independent watchmakers on the scene today. Working from his atelier in Môtiers, Switzerland, the Finnish master watchmaker produces some of the most coveted complications, drawing collectors from near and far to admire his minute repeaters, tourbillons and other in-house delicacies. The latest marvel to emerge from […]

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The New Rolex Oyster Perpetual: Is Less More? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Vacheron Constantin Oct 3, 2025

The New Rolex Oyster Perpetual: Is Less More? (Hands-On)

In a roster packed to the rafters with hype-laden icons, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is deceptively simple. Or is it too simple? Let’s find out! What We Love: Simplistic, no-nonsense design and colour Solid, unobtrusive wearability A true GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) watch What We Don’t: Overshadowed by other Rolex models Lacks modern quality-of-life updates Date or no date? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Consistency is a hard thing to come by in the watch industry. Very few brands have managed to achieve it, and even fewer watches can truly be called consistent hits. Off the top of my head, I can probably name only a handful of brands and models that have managed to not only succeed but hold that sweet spot. Longines, Vacheron Constantin, and even Panerai all come to mind — but if you want to talk about longevity, you have to talk about the Crown. Since their founding in 1905, Rolex has been one of the most consistent brands in history. The numbers speak for themselves: the company has held the number one spot for revenue in the luxury Swiss watch industry since at least 2017, according to the Morgan Stanley LuxeConsult reports. But the evidence also lies in their catalogue. Much of Rolex’s mainline collection has become inseparable from the brand’s identity, thanks to timeless, slow-changing designs, robust functionality, and uncompromising craftsmanship. Their watches have changed so little...

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Voutilainen Squares the Circle With the KV20i Reversed CS SJX Watches
Voutilainen Oct 3, 2025

Voutilainen Squares the Circle With the KV20i Reversed CS

Voutilainen turns the popular three-hand formula inside out to put the movement front and centre, now with a titanium cushion-case for the first time. The KV20i Reversed CS is not revolutionary, instead building on the KV20i Reversed Cherry from last year, but the movement remains one of the best in its segment, with hands, case, and half of a dial to match. Initial Thoughts Kari Voutilainen is a seminal figure in independent watchmaking, partly responsible for the popularity of elaborately decorated three-hand watches with dazzling guilloche dials – and not just because his company, Comblémine, makes a good number of those guilloche dials for other brands. Mr Voutilainen was at least a decade ahead of his time with his Observatoire of 2007, a watch that, alongside Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity, cultivated a market for this format. Nearly two decades later, his watches stand out less aesthetically, but his quality remains superlative – and has even improved. An Observatoire made in 2007, now 18 years old. Image – Phillips The cushion-shaped case is a new variable in a familiar formula, taking after the unique TP1 pocket watch Kari and Venla Voutilainen made for Only Watch 2019. Four prominent security screws hold the case together, and make for a more contemporary aesthetic that works well with Kari’s already pleasantly eclectic style. And for better or worse (depending on the collector’s taste) the Reversed CS leaves ample room for customisation. Beyond the c...

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Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: The Icons Compared Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Oct 2, 2025

Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: The Icons Compared

If you're relatively new to the watch collecting game and are ready to graduate to your first Omega watch, you're probably pondering a question that has confronted many others before you: Speedmaster or Seamaster? Spaceworthy historical chronograph or tough but stylish diver? Buzz Aldrin or Jacques Cousteau? The official watch of NASA or the official watch of James Bond? Both of these megapopular Omega watches have rich, amazing stories to tell and both today offer a plethora of options in terms of colorways, materials, and even added complications - all while still remaining true to their heritage. In this feature, we compare and contrast the Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster in the pursuit of helping prospective buyers make a (hopefully) more informed decision on their first - or next - Omega watch.  Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: Far From Their Roots In terms of seniority as a product family, the Omega Seamaster has almost a decade on its chronograph sibling. The Seamaster as we know it today is one of the most iconic of dive watches, but in 1948, when Omega introduced the first model by that name, the “dive watch” as we know it in the modern sense didn’t really exist. The original Omega Seamaster was positioned in contemporary advertisements as a watch for “town, sea, and country” - a dress watch for gentlemen that was distinguished from its many competitors by its adoption of a new waterproofing system that Omega had developed for the watches it produ...

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Worn & Wound
Bulova Unveils Oct 2, 2025

Start Spreading the News: Bulova Unveils the Final Exclusive Snorkel Edition for Windup Watch Fair NYC

As the entire world of watches converges on New York City for the upcoming Windup Watch Fair, Bulova is unveiling their third and final Windup Limited-Edition Snorkel that pays tribute to the city in a uniquely NYC way. Celebrating both 150 years of Bulova and 10 years of Windup and following in the footsteps of its Windup San Francisco and Chicago exclusives-which featured casebacks and colorways specific to those towns-the Bulova Snorkel Windup NYC Limited Edition offers a fresh, modern take on the classic “Devil Diver” design. The post Start Spreading the News: Bulova Unveils the Final Exclusive Snorkel Edition for Windup Watch Fair NYC appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Introducing Kiwame Tokyo, a New Japanese Microbrand Worn & Wound
Kiwame Tokyo Oct 2, 2025

Introducing Kiwame Tokyo, a New Japanese Microbrand

The independent watch space in Japan is one of the most interesting in the world right now. There have, of course, always been a lot of great watches coming out of Japan, but the last few years have seen a real surge in enthusiast focused releases from brands at literally every price point, and they’ve been redefining what a Japanese watch looks and feels like. We recently covered the latest release from Ōtsuka Lōtec, a daring haute horology experiment with a six figure price tag, and this year also saw the unveiling of Naoya Hida’s first perpetual calendar, which, for me personally, is still one of the very best watches I’ve laid hands on in 2025. These watches, and others, make for great examples of the breadth of Japanese watchmaking, but not everything new and interesting is prohibitively expensive. Case in point, Kiwame Tokyo, an entirely new brand that recently came across our radar.  Kiwame is the brainchild of Masami Watanabe, a 30 year veteran of the watch industry who began his career importing luxury watches from European brands to his native Japan. Over time, he also became interested in the burgeoning microbrand scene, and the stated goal of Kiwame is to create a “truly Japanese” microbrand that captures the refinement and craft that is often associated with Japanese design principles.  Kiwame debuted their first two watches only a short time ago and they quickly sold out of each 99 piece limited edition (an additional run is promised for Novembe...

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Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback Fratello
Longines Spirit Pilot Oct 2, 2025

Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback

Longines and aviation have been intertwined for more than a century. The brand supplied navigation and timekeeping instruments for some of the earliest pioneers of flight, from transatlantic adventurers to polar explorers. That history continues to shape the Spirit collection, launched in 2020 as a modern take on classic pilot’s watches. Now, five years on, […] Visit Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback to read the full article.

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Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity? Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Oct 1, 2025

Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity?

The beginning of October is the official marker of the beginning of spooky season, at least in my opinion. In the spirit of Halloween inching closer and closer on our calendars, I thought it would be fun to take a deep dive into a watch that really channels the energy of the season, at least as far as nicknames go – the Seiko Monster. And, to lean even further into the fanfare, I’ll be focusing solely on the most Halloween-appropriate colorways of the Seiko Monster universe – that’s right, it's the bright, pumpkin-y Seiko Orange Monster from here on out. Below, I’ll be walking you through a little history lesson for context, breaking down the various generations of Seiko’s Monster diver, ultimately to help you determine for yourself if this watch is an unlikely icon or a horological monstrosity.  Seiko Monster Context First things first – the “Monster” moniker is a nickname for this line of divers that the enthusiast community came up with itself, and the brand has yet to embrace it officially. The early 2000s, at large, is representative of something of an identity crisis for the watch world, as the necessity of wristwatches as a time-keeping tool waned. Each brand has its own approach, but when I think of the early 2000s for watches, chunky, bold, imaginative, and somewhat overbuilt pieces are the first things that come to mind, especially on the heels of the relatively conservative watch designs of the 1990s. Ultimately, the origin story of the Seiko ...

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Grand Seiko Introduces the SLGB005 “Violet Dawn” Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces Oct 1, 2025

Grand Seiko Introduces the SLGB005 “Violet Dawn”

Earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, Grand Seiko revealed the SLBG003, which turned out to be one of the most impressive watches of the whole show. Housing the new 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber, the UFA (Ultra-Fine Accuracy) movement is certified to an almost incomprehensible +/- 20 seconds per year, or roughly 3 seconds per month. That makes it, according to Grand Seiko, the most accurate movement powered by a mainspring. It’s a truly impressive horological achievement.  Of course, as soon as a brand like Grand Seiko introduces an entirely new platform like the UFA, enthusiasts are on pins and needles waiting to see what comes next. It’s not that we can’t appreciate what we have in front of us, but particularly with Grand Seiko, we know that variants are coming in the form of new dial options and case materials. If you had asked me in the Spring when we’d see the first derivation on the UFA line, I probably wouldn’t have expected to see a new watch so soon, but last week Grand Seiko dropped the Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA SLGB005, nicknamed the “Violet Dawn” for its deep purple dial. It’s always interesting to see what new watches in a new sub-collection come to pass, not just for what it says about where the line is going, but perhaps where it’s not.  The SLGB005, like its predecessor, is what we’d probably call a small-medium size by today’s standards, measuring a conservative 37mm. Unlike the titanium SLBG003, however, this watch is clad in a st...

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Hands-On With The Norqain Wild One Skeleton 42mm Purple Fratello
Norqain Wild One Skeleton 42mm Oct 1, 2025

Hands-On With The Norqain Wild One Skeleton 42mm Purple

Norqain is still a relatively young brand, but it has carved out a niche as a maker of fun, stylish watches. Of all the models in the catalog, the Wild One Skeleton is probably the best known. No matter the variant, the pieces are typically colorful, slightly brash, and capable. From my experience, though, they’re […] Visit Hands-On With The Norqain Wild One Skeleton 42mm Purple to read the full article.

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In-Depth – Audemars Piguet Reimagines the Chronograph with the Royal Oak Jumbo Chronograph RD#5 (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Reimagines Oct 1, 2025

In-Depth – Audemars Piguet Reimagines the Chronograph with the Royal Oak Jumbo Chronograph RD#5 (Incl. Video)

The chronograph is undoubtedly one of the most, if not the most, popular complications among watch enthusiasts. However, few people realise that this mechanism is one of the most complex in watchmaking. Most chronographs operate on the same fundamental principles. However, with the Royal Oak Jumbo Chronograph RD#5, Audemars Piguet dares to challenge conventions that […]

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Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5, a Thin Watch with Tall Ambitions SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Chronograph Oct 1, 2025

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5, a Thin Watch with Tall Ambitions

Audemars Piguet (AP) reinvents the chronograph with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5. Inside the titanium and palladium BMG case – standing just 8.1 mm high – is the cal. 8100, a new take on the chronograph mechanism that employs spring-loaded racks to gather and store energy. The RD#5 is the fifth and final instalment in the “RD” series of watches that underline the impressive technical know-how of AP, particularly its Le Locle manufacture that evolved from Renaud & Papi (APRP). Conceived with the goal of creating a chronograph that is extra slim and easy on the fingers, the RD#5 boasts exceptionally light and comfortable pusher feel, an instantaneously-jumping minutes counter, and an exceptionally slim profile (thanks in part to peripheral winding), all while remaining amenable to industrial-haute horlogerie manufacturing. It’s one of the most technically interesting debuts of 2025, and we explain AP’s new take on the chronograph in detail below. The cal. 8100 with its unorthodox chronograph and peripheral rotor Initial thoughts Outwardly just another Royal Oak, with the same ideal proportions and class-leading bracelet as the iconic “Jumbo”, the RD#5 is actually one of the most innovative mechanical chronographs in recent years. Perhaps the only comparison for out-of-the-box chronograph construction is AgenGraphe that was unveiled almost a decade ago. The watch was evidently developed with two goals in ...

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Introducing: The Praesidus × The Watch Observer A-11 Type 44 - A Limited WWII Tribute Fratello
Oct 1, 2025

Introducing: The Praesidus × The Watch Observer A-11 Type 44 - A Limited WWII Tribute

Praesidus, a brand devoted to authentic WWII recreations, has teamed up with French watch news site The Watch Observer for a limited edition of its A-11 Type 44. Limited to 250 numbered watches, the new model pays tribute to the US Air Force’s 533rd Bomb Squadron. If that doesn’t immediately ring a bell, it is […] Visit Introducing: The Praesidus × The Watch Observer A-11 Type 44 - A Limited WWII Tribute to read the full article.

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The NATO Strap: A History And 10 Best NATO-Strap Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 30, 2025

The NATO Strap: A History And 10 Best NATO-Strap Watches

Once a style that appealed mainly to a small but diehard niche, watches with NATO straps have moved from their original realm of military utility to become a popular option in the mainstream world of watches, even at some of the highest echelons of sporty luxury. If you're considering adding a NATO strap to your collection, or are simply curious where they came from and what your choices are on the market today, we tackle all your questions below.  Why Is It Called a NATO Strap? One would assume, from the strap’s plainly utilitarian, military look, that the name is derived directly from an association with the North Atlantic Treaty organization (NATO), the intergovernmental alliance of 30 European and North American nations for mutual military defense. However, this is not exactly the case.  Essentially, a so-called NATO strap is any one-piece strap, made of nylon or some other fabric, that loops under the watch’s case and through its spring bars to hold it securely in place on the wrist. Like all inventions that originated for a military purpose, its design emphasized utility, practicality, and secure use on the field of battle: such a strap construction would hold the watch in place, albeit dangling precariously, even if one of the spring bars were broken. Armed forces in both the United States and Great Britain used these types of fabric straps as early as the mid-20th Century (predating the formation of NATO in 1949); at one point, they were referred to in shorth...

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The MIYO Watch Keycap: An Intersection of Hobbies Worn & Wound
Sep 30, 2025

The MIYO Watch Keycap: An Intersection of Hobbies

Early this year, I dove into customizable mechanical keyboards for the first time, adding yet another hobby to the growing list. While I wholeheartedly blame our CEO Blake Malin for this, it’s become one of my favorite hobbies to date. Along with physically building keyboards, I also began exploring various subreddits, Discord servers, and blogs, learning about the many different facets of my new hobby. Along the way, I learned about “artisan keycaps”, custom keycaps that are handcrafted from many materials (frequently resin or metal) for a specific theme, which are highly collectible and unique. At one point, I mentioned to Zach Weiss (who also got into keyboards thanks to Blake) that I wanted an artisan keycap with a fully functional watch inside. It turns out that I’m not the only one, as Zach would eventually discover a post on the r/MechanicalKeyboards subreddit titled “MIYO: 1u functioning analog watch keycap (2 year update)” which introduced me to MujiManiac and SNEAKBOX Designs. While there are many artisan keycaps on the market, the standout feature of the MIYO is that it houses a functional watch movement and analog display, built inside a standard 1U size keycap. As the project was designed to be a functional keycap, the movement sits inside a custom machined, two piece stainless steel case that both protects the movement and allows it to be mounted on a keyboard of your choosing (provided it has compatible MX style switches).  At the heart of the M...

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Introducing – In Game and On the Wrist, The New Hamilton Khaki Field “Call of Duty Black Ops 7” Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field “Call Sep 30, 2025

Introducing – In Game and On the Wrist, The New Hamilton Khaki Field “Call of Duty Black Ops 7”

Once an American brand, now owned by the Swatch Group, Hamilton is a watchmaker with more than timepieces. It has fascinating stories to tell. We can’t forget the brand’s involvement in cinema, having been featured in over 500 movies since 1932 and its appearance in Shanghai Express, and then important features such as a futuristic […]

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Hands-On With The 38mm Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic “Call of Duty: Black Ops 7” Limited Edition Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic “Call Sep 30, 2025

Hands-On With The 38mm Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic “Call of Duty: Black Ops 7” Limited Edition

Hamilton might be known for its presence in Hollywood, but the once-American, now-Swiss brand is also active in video games. It started with the Khaki Field Titanium Automatic in Far Cry 6 and, later, the American Classic Boulton in Death Stranding 2: On the Beach. Now, Call of Duty: Black Ops 7 marks the third […] Visit Hands-On With The 38mm Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic “Call of Duty: Black Ops 7” Limited Edition to read the full article.

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Hamilton Introduces the Khaki Field Auto 38mm Call of Duty Special Edition Worn & Wound
Hamilton Introduces Sep 30, 2025

Hamilton Introduces the Khaki Field Auto 38mm Call of Duty Special Edition

For as long as I’ve been writing about watches (and in fact much longer) Hamilton has been associated with the silver screen. They are incredibly proud of their long history of popularizing specific watches through their appearances in movies. It’s a tradition that goes back decades, to when Elvis wore a Hamilton Ventura in Blue Hawaii, and has continued through the years with ties to some of the most widely seen films of the recent past, including Oppenheimer, Dune Part II, and more. Lately, however, Hamilton has shifted their focus just slightly by fully embracing what many see as a category that is equal to film in terms of storytelling and visual impact: gaming. The new Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38mm Call of Duty Special Edition is the brand’s third watch that is specifically tied to a videogame, and follows an ambitious project made to coincide with the latest release in the Death Stranding series. The new version of the Khaki Field seen here is, at least on the surface, a bit easier to digest than the avant-garde Boulton concept seen in Death Stranding. And that certainly makes a great deal of sense for Call of Duty, which is, as these things go, a far more grounded gaming experience. It is, notably, one of those games that has broken through to the popular culture even beyond serious gamers. It’s a title that just about everyone knows, even if they don’t know they know it, a notion that seems to bolster Hamilton’s decision to lean into the video game wor...

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Join The Breitling × Fratello Evening In Enschede On November 7th Fratello
Breitling × Fratello Evening Sep 30, 2025

Join The Breitling × Fratello Evening In Enschede On November 7th

It is with pride that I announce the upcoming Breitling × Fratello event, which will take place in the city where I was born. In fact, the Breitling boutique in Enschede is part of Koelink Jewelers, the store where I got my first serious watch back in 1998. On November 7th, we will host a […] Visit Join The Breitling × Fratello Evening In Enschede On November 7th to read the full article.

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Favre Leuba: How The Brand’s History Has Shaped Its Future Fratello
Favre Leuba How Sep 30, 2025

Favre Leuba: How The Brand’s History Has Shaped Its Future

Favre Leuba - formerly Favre-Leuba - is a historic brand we’re excited to cover here on Fratello. The world’s second-oldest watch company, just two years behind Blancpain, has a fascinating history and has produced some incredible watches. As was true for many marques, the Quartz Crisis proved challenging. While the brand never truly disappeared, it […] Visit Favre Leuba: How The Brand’s History Has Shaped Its Future to read the full article.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Calendar Goes Granular Two-Tone SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Master Control Calendar Sep 30, 2025

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Calendar Goes Granular Two-Tone

Jaeger-LeCoultre has just introduced the Master Control Calendar Limited Edition, the latest addition to a long line of triple calendar watches going back decades. Packaged in the 40 mm Master Control case we’ve become familiar with, this new 500-piece stainless steel limited edition is all about the dial, which features a richly textured silver and grey livery on a “sector” layout. Despite the classical aesthetic, the Master Control Date is thoroughly modern on the inside with the cal. 866 featuring a silicon escapement that supports a 70-hour power reserve. Initial thoughts The triple calendar moon phase has long been a staple of the Jaeger-LeCoultre line-up; Pablo Picasso famously wore one. Add to this lineage the brand’s unique jumping date pointer, which jumps in a wide arc from the 15th to the 16th of the month to avoid confounding the moon phase display, and the result is a watch that manages to be both charming and technically distinctive. It’s also easily wearable in a 40 mm case, that, while larger than the vintage originals, gives the indicators on the dial plenty of space to breathe. Of course, the movement is the cal. 866, effectively a cal. 899 with a triple calendar module, which helps keeps the overall package quite sleek at 10.95 mm – on par with many simple time-and-date watches in this category. Upgraded a few years ago with a silicon escapement, the movement now runs for 70 hours when fully wound, adding convenience to wearability. Naturall...

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