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Swiss Made

Legally regulated country-of-origin mark. Since 2017 requires at least 60% Swiss production cost, Swiss movement, Swiss development, and Swiss assembly and inspection.

Looking Back on a Decade of Windup Watch Fair Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Sep 15, 2025

Looking Back on a Decade of Windup Watch Fair

Ten years ago, in a cab stuck in traffic somewhere in Manhattan, the decision was made to put together a watch fair for like-minded brands and watch collectors. Not a stuffy event, but rather one where all are welcome. An event where small, young brands can be in the same room as long-established brands on an equal footing. An event that is free and open to the public. An event called Windup Watch Fair. The first Windup Watch Fair   Windup is for the children   Windup OGs – Christopher Ward and Oris   It was a weekend to remember   With the confidence that only comes from not knowing precisely what you are getting yourself into, we moved ahead with renting a space, rallying brands, hiring production vendors, and more. On October 23rd, 2015, we opened the doors to a pleasant surprise: there was a line down the block. In the years since, we’ve expanded and refined the Windup Watch Fair many times over. First, we added San Francisco, then Chicago, and most recently, Dallas. Each show grew a little in size, but also in stature. Windup went from a simple fair to a cultural rallying point for watch enthusiasts. It became a format that has been replicated around the world. In 2024, we expanded Windup Watch Fair NYC to an international scale, attracting over 150 brands and seeing over 10,000 attendees. And now, we’re excited to host Windup NYC once again, honoring 10 years of hard work, enthusiasm, and great watches. But, more importantly, it marks 10 years of bringing e...

Fortis Introduces The Stealthy Stratoliner S-41 Gravity Black And The Wild Reentry Edition Fratello
Fortis Introduces Sep 15, 2025

Fortis Introduces The Stealthy Stratoliner S-41 Gravity Black And The Wild Reentry Edition

Fortis is well known in the world of horology for creating amazing tool watches. It is also one of the few brands with a track record of successfully sending watches into space. The Fortis Stratoliner S-41 collection is a modern-day space traveler’s watch that has achieved just that. Now, the Swiss brand is extending the […] Visit Fortis Introduces The Stealthy Stratoliner S-41 Gravity Black And The Wild Reentry Edition to read the full article.

Berneron Complicates Things with the Quantième Annuel (Live Pics) Worn & Wound
Berneron Sep 12, 2025

Berneron Complicates Things with the Quantième Annuel (Live Pics)

The inaugural watch by haute Swiss independent Berneron, the Mirage 38, had a markedly poetic design. With a free-flowing case shape, twisting hands, and a distorted dial, it would be easy to consider it as a design of pure aesthetics. Looks deceived, however, as the form was driven by a movement concept that rejected the standard circular shape, allowing for a large barrel, and thus a 72-hour power reserve in a small and thin body. Nevertheless, the outcome was undoubtedly one of whimsy, where evocative design outweighed pure function, if there was a clever horological backing. Often, brands, especially young ones, stick to a theme to carve a niche for themselves within a crowded industry, but that’s not the approach of Berneron. For the brand’s second model, announced just before Geneva Watch Days, whimsy is nowhere in sight. Instead, the brand made a sharp turn into practicality and legibility, if through a decidedly haute lens. Titled the Quantième Annuel, it has a design that verges on the traditional, especially compared to the Mirage. The first model within their “quantième” collection, which will house their complicated pieces, the QA is an annual calendar jump hour with a design driven by logic in terms of how it is read, the movement architecture, and how it is set. The flow of the dial is meant to be top to bottom, left to right. Following that order, time is read hour, minute, second, and the day, date, and month. The hour is digital, as it is a jump ...

Experiencing The Ultra-Limited And Complicated Montblanc 1858 Cylindrical Tourbillon Geosphere Around The World In 80 Days Limited Edition – Chapter Three In Villeret Fratello
Montblanc 1858 Cylindrical Tourbillon Geosphere Sep 12, 2025

Experiencing The Ultra-Limited And Complicated Montblanc 1858 Cylindrical Tourbillon Geosphere Around The World In 80 Days Limited Edition – Chapter Three In Villeret

You could qualify a town with just 929 inhabitants as sleepy. Villeret, in the Swiss canton of Bern, is indeed quiet. It’s stuck between two mountain ridges in the Jura, and apart from a pizzeria that serves Dutch beer instead of Swiss for some reason, the isolated place looks pretty much timeless. Still, time plays […] Visit Experiencing The Ultra-Limited And Complicated Montblanc 1858 Cylindrical Tourbillon Geosphere Around The World In 80 Days Limited Edition – Chapter Three In Villeret to read the full article.

The Rebellious Watchmaking of Ondřej Berkus SJX Watches
Sep 12, 2025

The Rebellious Watchmaking of Ondřej Berkus

While the industry resumes normal operations following Geneva Watch Days, we’re taking a quick detour to the Italy to see what Ondřej Berkus has been up to. The Deadbeat Seconds 2.0 is the latest delivery from the self-taught watchmaker and is a good example of how far his watchmaking has come in recent years. As the name suggests, the DS 2.0 is the second watch Mr Berkus has made in this style, but like all of his creations, the two are remarkably different in execution. Initial thoughts There’s a reassuring degree of predictability to the luxury watch industry. It’s a conservative industry built on tradition, which reinforces unspoken norms about what counts as a high end watch. The result is conformity; most watchmakers march to a similar beat and stick to their respective niches. This uniformity helps customers understand the products, but as a consequence many of the products can be criticised as homogenous and impersonal. In contrast, the watchmaking of Ondřej Berkus is refreshingly human. He has no formal website, and conducts business via Instagram. He does not release collections, and no two pieces are entirely alike; each watch is created in dialogue with a collector. A self-taught watchmaker, Mr Berkus manages to pull this off thanks in part to his distinctive approach to finishing. While most contemporary independent watchmakers focus on simple movements executed to a high level, Mr Berkus flips the script, and strives to deliver watches that are unique...

Fratello Talks: Trade To Upgrade - Is It Possible To Trade Your Way To Your Grail Watch? Fratello
Sep 11, 2025

Fratello Talks: Trade To Upgrade - Is It Possible To Trade Your Way To Your Grail Watch?

Everyone knows the story: you start with a paperclip and trade your way up to a house. Canadian blogger Kyle MacDonald made it happen in 2006 with his One Red Paperclip project. Could this principle, on a smaller scale, be applied to watches? Today on Fratello Talks, Nacho, Thomas, and RJ join to discuss the […] Visit Fratello Talks: Trade To Upgrade - Is It Possible To Trade Your Way To Your Grail Watch? to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 Fratello
Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 Sep 10, 2025

Hands-On With The Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218

Panerai was first introduced to the public on September 10th, 1993. Until that time, the brand only made watches for military personnel. This is easy to forget, as Panerai quickly became a public fixture in the watch universe. This year, on the anniversary of its 1993 debut, Panerai unveils The Depths of Time at its […] Visit Hands-On With The Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 to read the full article.

Seiko Upcycles Leather for the Latest Presage SJX Watches
Seiko Upcycles Leather Sep 10, 2025

Seiko Upcycles Leather for the Latest Presage

Seiko adds a new limited-edition to its line of affordable dress watch with the Presage Classic Series Upcycled Leather Strap that sports knurled bezel, golden-brown gradient dial, and with a leather strap made from shoe leather offcuts supplied by Regal, a Japanese shoemaker best known for its leather dress shoes. Initial Thoughts Though strange on the surface, the Seiko Presage and Regal tie-up makes sense. Both are affordable, solid offerings in their respective segments, and also distinctly Japanese. Notably, Regal is launching the saddle shoes that produced the offcuts later this week. The watch itself is a good looking iteration of Seiko’s familiar entry-level dress watch. The bezel and smoked dial are a pleasing combination that set this apart from most Presage models. Seiko didn’t mention the impetus for this collaboration in press materials; I suspect geography was a part. Regal builds its top of the line shoes in the town of Morioka, near Morioka Seiko Instruments, the heart of Seiko’s domestic mechanical watch production. That proximity lends a lot of authenticity to the collaboration for me, and I wish it were part of Seiko’s messaging, though I understand most consumers don’t care. At the same time, Regal is little known outside Japan, but its shoes are a fixture in major Japanese department stores. The transient nature of leather straps is arguably a shortcoming in watches like the new Presage, or the Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon at the other en...

Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer Fratello
Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” Sep 8, 2025

Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer

Upcycling, the process of transforming materials that would otherwise be discarded into new products of higher value through thoughtful design and creativity, is a current theme, and that’s a good thing. You’ll get my point by looking at the new Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529. The elegant 40.2mm watch features a strap made of […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Christopher Ward Twelve 660 Vs. Nivada Grenchen F77 Fratello
Christopher Ward Twelve 660 Vs Nivada Sep 7, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Christopher Ward Twelve 660 Vs. Nivada Grenchen F77

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another showdown while the room fills with the smell of freshly made coffee. This week’s battle is all about affordable sports watches with integrated bracelets. Jorg has selected the new manual-winding Christoper Ward Twelve 660, which debuted last week, and Mike will take him on with the Nivada […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Christopher Ward Twelve 660 Vs. Nivada Grenchen F77 to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: Million Dollar Showdown – Steel Unicorns SJX Watches
Patek Philippe 1518 Sep 5, 2025

SJX Podcast: Million Dollar Showdown – Steel Unicorns

On the ninth episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore sit down to discuss recent watch launches during Geneva Watch Days, highlighting standout pieces like the hand-made Ferdinand Berthoud (the first of which will be sold at auction) and the Berneron annual calendar, and also reflecting on the flavours of the day like artisanal finishing and user-friendly calendar watches. Also on the docket, the record-setting Patek Philippe 1518 in steel returns to auction while a second is up for private sale, and reflecting on our reassuring recent encounter with Breguet’s new chief executive. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Precision in Pink: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 5, 2025

Precision in Pink: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds

A. Lange & Söhne has just unveiled the fourth livery for the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds, now featuring a pink gold dial. The Jumping Seconds made its debut in 2016, but its unusual feature set and harmonious layout remain impressive nine years later. The new model is a 100-piece limited edition in 18k white gold and features what collectors will no-doubt refer to as a ‘salmon’ dial. But unlike most ‘salmon’ dials that are plated, the dial of the Jumping Seconds is solid 18k pink gold. In other words, its colour is more than skin-deep. Initial thoughts Though it feels like we must be on the tail end of the trend toward salmon dials, Lange’s pink gold dials always look good and might stir up interest in what still feels like an underrated watch. Nearly a decade after launch, the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds remains one of the great regulator-style wristwatches. There’s an extraordinary coherence at play between the design, which references a historical German pocket watch and elevates the deadbeat seconds display, and the movement, which features a one-second remontoir and a return-to-zero mechanism. As ever, the Jumping Seconds presents a wearable 39.9 mm case in 18k white gold, and at just 10.6 mm thick it’s pretty sleek for a watch with so much going on inside. Like its stablemates, it features the characteristic Lange case with a brushed case band and faceted lugs that are attached separately. The L094.1 movement fills the case beautifully, and differ...

New Versions Of The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds And 1815 Tourbillon Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 5, 2025

New Versions Of The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds And 1815 Tourbillon

Coinciding with Geneva Watch Days 2025, Germany’s A. Lange & Söhne introduces two new variations of existing models. We get new variations of the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds and the 1815 Tourbillon, both made in very small numbers, and both adding subtle but significant updates. The Richard Lange Jumping Seconds comes in a pink-gold dial […] Visit New Versions Of The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds And 1815 Tourbillon to read the full article.

In-Depth – The Return of the TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Oscillator, Inside new Carbon Monaco and Carrera Models Monochrome
TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Oscillator Inside new Sep 4, 2025

In-Depth – The Return of the TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Oscillator, Inside new Carbon Monaco and Carrera Models

Since Christiaan Huygens paired a balance wheel and spiral spring in 1675, the hairspring has been the beating heart of every mechanical watch. Its material has always dictated chronometric performance. Steel, used for centuries, suffered from magnetism and temperature drift. Special alloys developed in the 20th century improved reliability – from Elinvar to Nivarox/Nivachron, made […]

First Look – The Artistic Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari Monochrome
Bulgari If you are attending Sep 4, 2025

First Look – The Artistic Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari

If you are attending the sixth edition of Geneva Watch Days, don’t miss Bulgari’s retrospective of the Octo Finissimo’s impressive trajectory in the ultra-thin watchmaking arena since 2014.  Alongside the record-breaking models is a new Octo Finissimo collaboration model made with Korean artist Lee Ufan, the latest in a long line of artists and architects […]

Gérald Genta Strikes the Right Note with the Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps Sep 4, 2025

Gérald Genta Strikes the Right Note with the Minute Repeater

The reborn Gérald Genta has just unveils a simply-titled complicated watch, the Minute Repeater. Although a new design, the striking timepiece harks back to Gérald Genta’s golden age in the late 20th century, in both style and quality of execution. The case takes a clean, cushion-shaped form, while the dial is glossy black onyx. And inside ticks the GG-002, a hand-wind movement derived from the longstanding repeater movement made by Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the parent of Gérald Genta. Though not a limited edition, the yearly output will be limited to 10 pieces. Initial thoughts Big-name brand revivals are not always successful endeavours, since it is often difficult for new patrons to recapture the spirit and style of the original, while also making it financially viable. Gérald Genta is clearly an exception. It was relaunched in 2023 by Louis Vuitton, allowing it to lean more towards genuine quality rather than a flash in the pan.  The Minute Repeater is a welcome and original addition to the brand’s collection, embodying the late Genta’s instinctive design flair and aesthetic sensibilities, while being a new(ish) design. An especially pleasant surprise is the original case shape that certainly looks very Gérald Genta, but wasn’t previously in the catalogue, though Genta did pen similar cases in the past. In other words, this is not a remake. The shape sits between an ellipse and a rounded rectangle, capturing the gist of the 1970s design we...

A History and Guide to Hamilton Worn & Wound
Hamilton American watchmaking was Sep 3, 2025

A History and Guide to Hamilton

American watchmaking was, at one point in time, the largest in the world. In an era before Swiss domination, watches from the United States were prized for their accuracy and sophistication. Names like Waltham, Elgin, and Gruen - once prolific - have all but disappeared through the rapidly changing social and economic structures of the twentieth century. Then there is Hamilton. American watchmaking was, at one point in time, the largest in the world. In an era before Swiss domination, watches from the United States were prized for their accuracy and sophistication. Names like Waltham, Elgin, and Gruen - once prolific - have all but disappeared through the rapidly changing social and economic structures of the twentieth century. Then there is Hamilton. The post A History and Guide to Hamilton appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Greatest Collectors of All Time: Henry Graves Jr. – The Banker Who Commissioned Complex and Innovative Watches Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication considered Sep 2, 2025

The Greatest Collectors of All Time: Henry Graves Jr. – The Banker Who Commissioned Complex and Innovative Watches

Henry Graves Jr. (1868–1953) was a prominent American banker and art collector, most famous for his passion for collecting timepieces. He is best known for commissioning some of the most complex and innovative watches ever made, including the Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication, considered one of the most significant and expensive timepieces in horological history. Graves was born on the 11th of March 1868 in Orange, New Jersey, in the United States of America. The Graves family was a prominent and wealthy banking family. His father, Henry Graves Sr. (1838–1906), was a co-founder and partner in the Maxwell & Graves banking firm. They engaged in the railroad and financial services industries and Henry Graves, Jr. continued the family legacy of financial services expertise as an investment banker. The company operates today under the name M&G; Solutions which was founded by the great-great-grandson of Henry Graves Jr. They use an image of the Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication in their logo signifying the ‘&’ symbol paying tribute to his relative’s interest in watches (below). Graves was known primarily for his legendary watch collection which stemmed from his status as a wealthy financier who appreciated fine craftsmanship and luxury items. He was also an avid collector of art, reflecting his refined taste, acquiring items of significant cultural and historical value.  Henry Graves Jr.’s interest in watches stemmed from his status as a weal...

Orient Gilds the Retro World Map SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Breguet Sep 2, 2025

Orient Gilds the Retro World Map

Orient celebrates its 75th anniversary with a limited edition World Map, inspired by a 1969 fan favourite and priced under US$400. Distinctly retro in style, the World Map features an unusual world time arrangement using a striking map and rotating bezel for global time zones. It’s well priced and well made, and a break from the brand’s usual staples, which tend to be affordable but plain. Initial Thoughts It seems 2025 is a year of many anniversaries: Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, and of course, Orient. While never the most prominent Japanese watch manufacturer, Orient has built up a strong back catalog over 75 years, which includes the World Map. That said, I’d have preferred a reissue of the more formal looking World Trip, though I imagine the brand is saving that for the up-market Orient Star line. Beyond the watch, it’s important to remember that while Orient is a relatively small brand, it’s part of Seiko Epson, the company behind the Spring Drive UFA that made headlines this year (though a distinct entity from Seiko Watch Corporation that markets and sells Seiko and Grand Seiko watches). For the brand’s 60th anniversary, Orient equipped the Orient Star Skeleton with Japan’s first (and only) silicon escapement. With that in mind, it’s worth keeping an eye on Orient this year, as the brand has more to offer than just a pretty face. Post War Travel Ban and Boom In the aftermath of the Second World War Japan was devastated and isolated. ...