Hodinkee
Photo Report: Watch Week Aspen Returns For Its Second Year
The second annual Watch Week Aspen brought 16 brands and over 200 attendees together to share in the passion for watchmaking amidst the beautiful backdrop of Aspen, Colorado.
Results for Lug-to-Lug
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: Buy This, Not That: Vintage Movado
This week's edition is a crash course in buying a great vintage Movado online - from eBay listings to reputable dealers.
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Introduces the Gravée Main, with a Fully Engraved Case
Of all the artisanal specialities in watchmaking, case engraving has to be among the most obscure and unheralded. I think there are a few reasons for this. One, the dial is where the action is on most watches, and applying a time consuming artistic craft on the case might be seen by some watchmakers as a waste of valuable time. Another factor is that to a large extent, we’ve all been trained to appreciate a particular type of case finishing. We see crisp transitions between brushed and polished surfaces, and that registers as being of a certain level of quality that we expect in a luxury watch. If those elements aren’t there, even if they’re substituted by something that might be visually striking, our reptile brains feel like there’s something missing. The latest in Louis Erard’s ongoing Métiers d’Art series, however, is a good opportunity to appreciate complex case engraving in a new way. The whole idea behind how Louis Erard approaches Métiers d’Art, and to a certain extent the brand’s focus more generally, is to make craft accessible. The new Gravée Main is perhaps their most ambitious attempt in this area to date. Virtually every steel surface (the case, bezel, lugs, crown, and buckle) is hand engraved. According to the brand, each watch takes upwards of 50 hours to engrave by hand, and only 99 will be made. Engraving is one of those things that really comes alive when you look at it closely and imagine that painstaking work that went into creat...
Deployant
New: Bovet Récital 12 with unique stone dials
Bovet adds to their first ever integrated bracelet collection - the Récital 12 with two new models fitted with stone dials.
Time+Tide
Bovet goes natural, offering the Récital 12 with malachite and tiger’s eye dials
Bovet adds more variety to their most versatile watch.The post Bovet goes natural, offering the Récital 12 with malachite and tiger’s eye dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Quartz Watches Under €500
Another Friday, another list! This week, we’re finishing our trilogy of lists focusing on affordable watches under €500. We started the series two weeks ago with our five favorite watches from big brands. Last week, we looked at our five favorites from small brands. This week, we’ll end the series with our five favorite affordable […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Quartz Watches Under €500 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
“You killed my Royal Oak!”: Emmanuel Gueit reveals the stories behind his legendary watch designs
From Genta's Offshore gripes to getting Rolex to revive a moonphase, Emmanuel tells all.The post “You killed my Royal Oak!”: Emmanuel Gueit reveals the stories behind his legendary watch designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Norqain Wild One “Stan the Man” Limited Edition
Even though a relatively young brand, Norqain has made a name for itself in the field of sports watches, as well as a strong commitment to Swiss production. Norqain’s CEO Ben Küffer has been able to count on some great friends since he started his brand in 2018, one of them being industry veteran Jean-Claude […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Micromilspec Pilot GMT Dualtimer And Milgraph White Watches
Micromilspec is a hardcore watch brand from Oslo, Norway. The watches from this young and dynamic brand are rough, rugged, and ready for almost everything you can throw at them. The Milgraph, for instance, flaunts its rugged military capabilities with a cool sense of Scandinavian style, especially now that there’s a new version with a […] Visit Introducing: The Micromilspec Pilot GMT Dualtimer And Milgraph White Watches to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko vs Citizen: What 10 Years of Testing These Brands Reveals
Here’s what you need to know before deciding on Seiko or Citizen, based on insights from 10 years of reviewing both brands hands-on.
Teddy Baldassarre
What Is A Tourbillon?
For many watch collectors, acquiring one's first tourbillon watch is a Holy Grail, a rite of passage into the upper echelons of horological connoisseurship. If you're new to the watch appreciation game, however, you may be wondering what all the fuss is about. What is so special about tourbillon watches, anyway, and what makes them so desirable to so many while still being so prohibitively expensive for most? The short answer is that a tourbillon is, in this day and age, less of a necessity and more of a badge of historical high-watchmaking excellence. For a more detailed explanation, read on. The First Tourbillons and Early Innovations The inventor of the tourbillon is a name that is likely familiar to watch connoisseurs. Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823), a native of Switzerland who plied his trade as a watchmaker in Paris, was one of horology’s most significant historical figures, among whose many innovations was the first self-winding movement, the first repeater movement with a gong, one of the earliest constant-force escapements, and the device that he famously patented in 1801, the so-called tourbillon escapement. While the tourbillon is today considered by many to be a complication, like a chronograph or calendar mechanism, its original purpose was a fully practical one, to compensate for the ill effects of gravity on the movement of a pocket watch and thus improve its long-term accuracy. Remember, in Breguet’s time, watches were not worn on wrists, where ...
Worn & Wound
What I Learned Touring Casio’s Ultra Modern Factory (and Museum)
I have a confession to make: I (politely) turn down 90% of press junkets offered to me. So, when Casio reached out to me earlier this year with the opportunity to visit their Yamagata factory and the Tokyo headquarters, I was not too sure. I thought about it for three days on how this would be different from any other watch factory visit, and how I would narrate my visit without the usual “Maison’s” PR team influencing my writing. There were two reasons I accepted Casio’s invitation. First, Casio is unlike any other watch company, so it will make for an interesting visit and observations. And second, Casio culture is different from other watch companies, including their PR and marketing folks. They are transparent about everything; they allowed me to ask the tough questions and did not influence my story. I will touch on both points further in this article. The original G-SHOCK There were three journalists on this trip including me, so it was a small group for this visit. We visited Casio’s Yamagata factory the first day, their museum in Tokyo the following day, and on the final day we visited the headquarters to meet and interview executives overseeing the watch division. All three visits were so different from each other – the first was so technical, the second was all about design and history, and the final visit was about strategy. For our visit to the Yamagata factory, we woke up early to take the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Higashine city, in Yamagata ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Paulin Mara, The First Dive Watch by the Glasgow-Based Brand
Paulin Watches, founded in 2013 by three sisters and now part of anOrdain, has built its reputation on a bold, design-driven approach to watchmaking, characterised by distinctive typography and an original use of form and colour. With the Mara, the Glasgow-based brand takes a step into the world of professional watches, reimagining the diver through […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Seriously Fun Paulin Mara Dive Watches
Ever since I had my first taste of Paulin’s watches almost two years ago, I have been all ears whenever the brand releases something new. But I was particularly excited when Nacho alerted me about the Glaswegian brand’s take on a dive watch. Put the most popular category of watches in the capable hands of […] Visit Introducing: The Seriously Fun Paulin Mara Dive Watches to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
H. Moser and Azuki Partner on a New Collaboration
It’s hard to believe, but with Labor Day just over the horizon, the first days of tolerable weather breaking into the mix, and the whole world picking up pace, there’s no denying that we’re fast approaching the end of summer. For many, the end of summer also marks the end of dive watch season, but we at Worn & Wound aren’t quite ready to pack up one of our favorite styles of watch for the year, and neither is one of our favorite brands, H. Moser & Cie. In fact, they’re doubling down with the release of what just may be the best collab dive watch of 2025, in partnership with anime-inspired digital art collective, Azuki. Their latest collection - which Moser and Azuki have dubbed the “Elements of Time” - draws from Azuki’s Elementals NFT Collection, with four new dial designs inspired by the elements of Azuki’s Element Universe: Fire, Earth, Water, and Lightning. Playing host to these elemental dials - each of which boasts a unique blend of guillochage and fumé finishing - is the Pioneer Centre Seconds Rotating Bezel, a dive watch–esque sports watch that has long been one of Moser’s great under-the-radar offerings. Though not technically a dive watch by the strictest ISO definitions, the Pioneer Centre Seconds Rotating Bezel certainly plays all the dive watch hits, and plays them well. First introduced as a stainless steel 42mm watch in 2019, the Centre Seconds RB has been subject to several reinterpretations over the years, including in collab...
Monochrome
News – Phillips Watch’s Next Auction Has Everything but Watches, and Will Benefit a Good Cause
On Saturday, 6 September 2025, Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo will host a live charity auction at Geneva Watch Days to benefit the Pierre Amstutz Fund, a non-profit organisation dedicated to supporting apprentices at the Geneva School of Watchmaking. Now in its third consecutive year, the charity auction has become a fixture of […]
Worn & Wound
Time+Tide Announces their First Dress Watch, a Collaboration with Dennison Featuring a Marquetry Mother of Pearl Dial
Just a few months ago, Dennison launched their first ever collaboration with Collectability, John Reardon’s Patek Philippe focused retail operation. That watch was an exercise in subtlety, and all about shape. It evoked classic Patek references without hitting you over the head with obvious historical nods, and felt like a true reflection of Reardon’s taste. This week, they’ve announced their second collaborative watch, a time limited edition with Time+Tide, and this one is equally impressive while being anything but subtle, featuring an impressive execution of a rarely seen mother of pearl marquetry technique. This feels like it might be the second week in a row where a mother of pearl limited edition takes over our social media feeds. It was just days ago that Selten premiered their own engraved MOP dial in partnership with Watch Ho & Co. Like the Selten, this new Dennison doesn’t stop at a simple slab of mother of pearl, but seeks to transform the material into something unexpected. That’s where designer Emmanual Gueit comes in. He’s created a dial featuring a repeating motif of unique, rectangular, mother of pearl filaments. The result is an irregular surface that shimmers like a traditional MOP dial, but in unexpected ways through a geometric pattern. This type of dial making is far more labor intensive than using a single piece of mother of pearl, as each filament had to be precisely inlaid by hand. Time+Tide has released a number of limited edition...
Deployant
New: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph
Roger Dubuis releases an addition to their Excalibur Chronograph collection with the new Spider Flyback Chronograph, now in pink gold.
Fratello
Looking Back At Four Decades Of Love For Tennis With the Rado Captain Cook × Tennis LE
When you think of horology houses involved in tennis, the immediate name that comes to mind is Rolex. However, the Genevan watch brand is not the only one active in the sport. Over the past four decades, Rado has actively supported tennis and served as the official timekeeper of numerous tennis tournaments on both the […] Visit Looking Back At Four Decades Of Love For Tennis With the Rado Captain Cook × Tennis LE to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Orient Stretto 75th Anniversary Collection
Orient marks its 75th anniversary with a new line in the Contemporary Collection - the Orient Stretto. The series launches with six models, split between three limited editions and three regular-production watches. The commemorative trio highlights the milestone with anniversary logos and engravings, while the standard trio secures the Stretto’s place in the permanent collection. […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Stretto 75th Anniversary Collection to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The tough Zenith Defy Extreme Diver gets a purposeful ‘Shadow’ makeover
Zenith cloaks its dive watch in the same microblasted titanium used in their recent limited-edition 'Shadow' models - to amazing effect.The post The tough Zenith Defy Extreme Diver gets a purposeful ‘Shadow’ makeover appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Impresses with the RD780 Flyback Chronograph
Representing a new era for the Roger Dubuis manufacture, the Excalibur Spider Flyback is an aggressively styled, motorsports-themed chronograph – boasting the impressive, high-spec RD780 movement with some unusual tricks up its sleeve, including an inclined balance. While the Excalibur Spider Flyback harkens back to the brand’s early aspirations in terms of movement construction and ambition, it diverges entirely in style with its supercar-inspired lines. Limited to 88 examples in pink gold, it debuted at Monterey Car Week – Roger Dubuis is a partner of Lamborghini – this variant in pink gold and blackened titanium is a new iteration of a model originally available in carbon composite. The RD780 Initial Thoughts In its past life, Roger Dubuis raised a menagerie of ambitious – perhaps overambitious – movements. While the brand thinned the herd after the 2008 financial crisis, some of that spirit lives on inside the Excalibur Spider Flyback. It attempts the dial-movement integration and three dimensionality mastered by some independent watchmakers like Greubel Forsey, though the construction is still fairly traditional, leading to some lost opportunities. The calibre is impressive – especially for a brand owned by a luxury group – but could be better. For example, the minutes counter could be inclined by 12° to mirror the balance and the imitation barrel bridge to be more convincing in terms of style and symmetry. With its over-the-top-style, the Richard Mil...
Monochrome
Introducing – Micromilspec Launches its First Pilot’s Watch, the Dualtimer
Micromilspec may be new to some enthusiasts, but in professional circles, the Oslo-based brand is already trusted. Founded by Henrik Rye with designer Anders Drage and a serving Norwegian Army member, the company built its reputation on custom watches co-designed with military units worldwide. From naval squadrons to combat battalions, even Norway’s King’s Guard, over […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Black Bay Pro Review
At Watches & Wonders 2025, Tudor expanded its existing catalog to address some fan requests as well as to reset some long neglected collections. One release that does both is the new Black Bay Pro with a silver opaline dial. This is a configuration long requested from enthusiasts, and Tudor did the idea justice by getting the small details right. This is more than a mere dial swap, even if the underlying platform remains largely the same. This is the kind of methodical evolution we’ve come to expect from Tudor, though in some ways, the new Black Bay Pro plays things a little too safe. Let’s take a quick look back at Tudor’s recent history with the GMT complication to set some context for the newest Black Bay Pro, because - while this configuration has been highly requested - as far as fan requests go, this watch has one glaring omission. Tudor released the Black Bay GMT back in 2018 with a black dial and a throwback red-and-blue aluminum bezel. As popular as the watch was right off the bat, the size made it a tough pill to swallow for some, particularly the thickness of the case paired with the relatively flat sidewall. Tudor Black Bay Pro Case Tudor partially addressed this with the release of the first Black Bay Pro in 2022 in a 39mm steel case. The watch also played up ties to the Rolex Explorer II with a fixed steel bezel. It was an unexpected release but it hit many of the right notes, and it made the substantial thickness a bit easier to stomach. It wor...
Fratello
The Chronograph Vs. The Dive Bezel - Which One Is For You?
The chronograph and dive bezel are, I would argue, two of the most useful horological “bonuses” available to us watch consumers. Essentially, both do the same thing - measure elapsed time. Technically, there’s much more that each can do, but that is the function they share. The way they measure elapsed time, however, is different, […] Visit The Chronograph Vs. The Dive Bezel - Which One Is For You? to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On: The Traska Commuter 38 - A Daily Driver That Leaves A Lasting Impression
In a fast-paced world, slow and steady progress is not often the chosen growth path for small watch brands. However, Traska has chosen this path and, as a result, has cultivated a passionate and dedicated following that loves the brand and its strategy. I have been keeping an eye on Traska over the past couple […] Visit Hands-On: The Traska Commuter 38 - A Daily Driver That Leaves A Lasting Impression to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II
We know Oris as a watchmaking company dedicated to reducing its environmental impact and supporting good causes around the globe. Today, I got a chance to go hands-on with the brand’s latest effort in that spirit. This is the Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II. This 2,000-piece limited edition supports the Billion Oyster […] Visit Hands-On With The New Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Moser Pioneer Returns with a Dive Bezel (and NFT Connection)
H. Moser & Cie.’s only dive watch returns as the Pioneer “Elements of Time”, the result of an unexpected, but not unprecedented, collaboration with Azuki, an anime-inspired NFT, and American retailer The 1916 Company. Unsurprisingly given the digital nature of the collaboration, the watches will only be available online via raffle from Azuki. Representing the four elements of earth, lightning, fire and water, Elements of Time features engraved fumé dials in four colourways. Each is limited to 24 watches in Pioneer Centre Seconds format, along with one unique Pioneer tourbillon per colour. All variants are titanium, matched with bracelet with the amenities you’d expect from a diver, including a micro-adjust clasp. Initial Thoughts While a new Pioneer with a rotating bezel would normally be a major release, you won’t find Elements of Time on Moser’s website. That’s because it’s a collaboration with Azuki, a non-fungible token (NFT). Azuki is Japanese for “red bean”, but Azuki is basically anime-style digital art on the blockchain. But these are real watches – they can be collected at The 1916 Company’s physical stores – and more notably, sport of the most interesting fumé dials from Moser in a while. This isn’t Moser’s first foray into the Web 3.0 world. Back in 2022, the brand launched the Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis, a watch that was essentially a physical QR code. The timing wasn’t the best as it debuted just as the NFT bubble popped...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Makes Hand Engraving Affordable
Louis Erard’s niche is making either watchmakers or techniques affordable – the Gravée Main is hand engraving priced accessibly. The watch is entirely engraved by hand, across the bezel, case, crown, and buckle, with a classical leaf motif by Maksym Shavlak, a watchmaker and engraver from Ukraine. The resulting look is a blend of Gothic and Baroque, but the underlying watch retains the usual dimensions and movement of Louis Erard, while the dial is glossy black lacquer that evokes fired enamel. Initial thoughts I appreciate Louis Erard’s consistent focus on making interesting names or techniques affordable; its recent Damascus steel regulator being an example. Some micro-brands or one-man shops do the same for slightly less, particularly for certain decorative techniques, but without the finesse of Louis Erard. A good deal of credit for this goes to Manuel Emch, who oversees Louis Erard and lends his eye to the brand’s creations. The Gravée Main sits squarely in the sweet spot where Louis Erard excels. Admittedly, the ornate look is not for everyone, some might even find it tacky. But I like it; the look is appealing and the execution shows attention to detail. The tone-on-tone lacquered dial is a smart complement to the elaborate case. And that attention to detail is also evident in the engraving, which continues onto both the crown and buckle, which are sometimes overlooked. Price-wise the Gravée Main is pricier than the typical Louis Erard limited edition, bu...
Hodinkee
Happenings: Astronaut Charles "Pete" Conrad, Jr.'s Speedmaster On Display At The Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex
The watch that made it to the Moon has touched down in Florida.