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Santos Cartier

The 1904 Cartier watch designed for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.

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Tank Cartier

Louis Cartier's 1917 rectangular design, inspired by the Renault FT tank.

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Sword Hands

Flat triangular blade hands without a central ridge. Cartier Tank, Santos, IWC Mark XI / Mark XX classical-dress and military signature.

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Richemont

Geneva luxury holding group founded 1988 by Johann Rupert. Owns Cartier, IWC, JLC, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron, Panerai, Piaget. Largest haute-horlogerie portfolio in the industry.

Why this Longines is the best watch I’ve ever owned Time+Tide
Longines Sep 27, 2019

Why this Longines is the best watch I’ve ever owned

Back at the beginning of 2013, as a result of kissing goodbye to a couple of watches (mistakes) from my collection, I found myself in the rather fortunate position of needing a new daily timepiece. The buying criteria was fairly simple and straightforward: the new watch needed to be a diver, automatic, Swiss made and … ContinuedThe post Why this Longines is the best watch I’ve ever owned appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Sep 2, 2019

Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial

Seiko has cultivated its Presage collection as one that offers watches featuring dials decorated with artisanal techniques like Shippo enamel or Arita porcelain, but at extremely affordable prices. Now Seiko has just rolled out the first-ever Presage watches powered by the brand’s best-known innovation – the Spring Drive, an electronically regulated mechanical movement previously only found in Credor, Grand Seiko and Prospex watches. And the Spring Drive has been combined with a decidedly more traditional face, with both new models featuring vitreous enamel dials. Available in either white or black, the enamel dials are once again produced by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team, who are adept at producing enamel dials of high-quality and in large quantities, but relatively low prices. The clean and slightly retro dial design, however, is the work of the design studio founded by Japanese industrial designer Riki Watanabe. After his death in 2013, the design of his work was entrusted to his colleague, who stuck closely to Watanabe’s ideals of functionality and beauty in the conception of the watch. The dial is characterised by a striking clarity thanks to the high contrast between the hands, hour markers and dial, as well as Arabic numerals in Didoni typeface, a favourite of Watanabe. Notably, the date is properly integrated into the dial design with a date wheel that matches the colour of the dial, while the combination of the contrasting...

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR-X1 Phantom Chronograph SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR-X1 Phantom Chronograph Aug 13, 2019

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR-X1 Phantom Chronograph

In 2014, Bell & Ross’ signature BR 01 design spawned a futuristic, ultra-graphic spin-off that would take the brand miles beyond the cockpit – the BR-X1. While the watch inherited the distinctive circle-within-a-square case modelled on aircraft instruments, from there the execution swerves radically away from the retro-military look of the original, with the BR-X1 taking on a greater complexity in both construction and style. Iterated into numerous variants in the five years since its launch – including a Renault Formula 1 edition and White Hawk – the BR-X1 is characterised by open-worked dial revealing a skeletonised chronograph module and a complex case made up of a combination of materials – here titanium and ceramic – with rocker-style pushers pivoted on one end. This year, Bell & Ross (B&R;) has unveiled one of the most striking iterations of the BR-X1 to date, the all-black Phantom. The BR-X1 Phantom Going dark Watches with black cases and dials are relatively common today, ironically thanks in part to one brand that resisted the genre so vehemently that it spawned an outlaw cult of aftermarket all-black watches. Even with the flood of black watches on the market, few have gone above and beyond in making everything on the watch black. The first truly all-black watch was the smash hit Hublot Big Bang of 2006, which was followed by hordes more. But the greatest irony of such watches is that the illegible colour palette results in an eminent...

Up Close: Akrivia AK-02 Tourbillon Hour Minute SJX Watches
Casio nally titanium it Jul 9, 2019

Up Close: Akrivia AK-02 Tourbillon Hour Minute

Last year’s Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain made its young creator, Rexhep Rexhepi, a star, but the brand’s foundational watch is actually the “AK” series. Chunky and slightly sporty, the AK watches are a world away from the classical styling of the Chronomètre Contemporain, but boast the same level of movement finishing, along with a bonus of elaborately hand-hammered dials. The second model in the AK series was the AK-02 Tourbillon Heure Minute, or “Hour Minute” – a time-only watch with a tourbillon regulator. The AK-02 is probably the finest finished tourbillon wristwatch in its price segment, and in the price segments above it as well. The AK case It’s a fairly large watch, with the case measuring 43.0mm with and 12.9mm high. But the lugs are short so it feels fairly compact on the wrist. And because the AK-02 is typically found in a steel case, as is pictured here, or occasionally titanium, it is usually lightweight. Gold cases are available for a modest premium, though rarely requested. The case feels like it’s trying too hard, and consequently feels overly built, with thick lugs and a high case band. It’s too chunky for my taste, and doesn’t quite suit the refined movement inside. That being said, the AK-style case has it fans for several reason. The design is distinctive, more distinctive than the old school Chronomètre Contemporain case. And it is also finished to a high degree, with contrasting polished and brushed surfaces; the...

HANDS-ON: Full metal jacket – the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V Casio’s G-Shock Jun 14, 2019

HANDS-ON: Full metal jacket – the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V

Casio’s G-Shock has a reputation - and a well-deserved one, I might add - for being one of the toughest watches ever made. Way back in 1983, Kikuo Ibe, the man behind the watch, decreed that the watch needed to meet some pretty tough criteria: a 10-year battery life, water resistance of 10 bar, and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Full metal jacket – the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex drought shows no sign of easing Time+Tide
Rolex drought shows no sign Jun 11, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex drought shows no sign of easing

In yet another example of water being wet, desirable Rolex models are not easy to get. And while the issues with Rolex stock should not be news to anyone reading this, this analysis from WatchPro’s managing editor Rob Corder is a somewhat more evidence-based analysis than the usual feverish hyperbole. Corder uses the tried and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex drought shows no sign of easing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“I definitely think the Porsche Design by IWC Ocean 2000 is undervalued, but don’t expect that to last forever!” 6 reasons it might be a sleeper classic Time+Tide
Porsche Design Mar 1, 2019

“I definitely think the Porsche Design by IWC Ocean 2000 is undervalued, but don’t expect that to last forever!” 6 reasons it might be a sleeper classic

When the idea was first hatched that we would work with IWC on auctioning a rare-in-this-condition Porsche Design by IWC Ocean 2000 ref 3504 for charity, a name quickly emerged as someone to consult with on the process. Carson Chan is not only the Head of Mission of Greater China for the Fondation de la Haute … ContinuedThe post “I definitely think the Porsche Design by IWC Ocean 2000 is undervalued, but don’t expect that to last forever!” 6 reasons it might be a sleeper classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Smaller, thinner – the Seiko Astron GPS Solar 5X Time+Tide
Seiko Astron GPS Solar 5X Oct 11, 2018

VIDEO: Smaller, thinner – the Seiko Astron GPS Solar 5X

Most of the watches we talk about here at Time+Tide are mechanical - if there’s a battery involved, the watch has to be pretty special to get our attention. Well, Seiko’s Astron meets (and exceeds) the ‘pretty special’ criteria. The original Astron watch was released in 2012 (well, if you want to get technical, the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Smaller, thinner – the Seiko Astron GPS Solar 5X appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: From $6k to $60k, 6 reasons to love a classic chronograph Time+Tide
Oct 9, 2018

EDITOR’S PICK: From $6k to $60k, 6 reasons to love a classic chronograph

Editor’s note: When I began the hunt for my first “good” watch I came up with a list of certain criteria: a black dial, 40 – 44 mm case size, and good looks. However, the main one was that it needed to be a chronograph. It was the added allure of a more complex inside paired … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: From $6k to $60k, 6 reasons to love a classic chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: This one has the time, now all you need is the jet – the Franck Muller Vanguard World Timer GMT Time+Tide
Franck Muller Aug 14, 2018

INTRODUCING: This one has the time, now all you need is the jet – the Franck Muller Vanguard World Timer GMT

Invented in the 1930s by Geneva watchmaker Louis Cottier, world time watches brought – at a glance and all at once – the time across 24 of the world’s key time zones to the hands of international jetsetters and business-makers. Indeed, no complication provides a greater desire to conquer the world, or induces a greater … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: This one has the time, now all you need is the jet – the Franck Muller Vanguard World Timer GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Edition – an icon on the wrist Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Apr 22, 2018

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Edition – an icon on the wrist

There’s more to a watch than how it feels and looks on the wrist. Some watches carry a weight greater than what you can measure in grams - they also bear the weight of decades of heritage and sociocultural significance. The Monaco - a true icon of the industry - is one such watch. It’s … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Edition – an icon on the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: The top 10 watch reviews of 2017 – part 2 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Rolex Longines Dec 29, 2017

LIST: The top 10 watch reviews of 2017 – part 2

Yesterday we published the first part of our most-read reviews of 2017, covering off Bulgari, Grand Seiko, Rolex, Longines and some more Rolex (for good measure). Today we go through the top five watch reviews of 2017, with some expected and some more surprising results … 5: IN-DEPTH: Tudor’s Black Bay Chrono – greater than … ContinuedThe post LIST: The top 10 watch reviews of 2017 – part 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: A flashback through a year of Longines stories, and one last hurrah in Beijing to launch an aggressively priced new COSC-certified collection Time+Tide
Longines stories Nov 22, 2017

VIDEO: A flashback through a year of Longines stories, and one last hurrah in Beijing to launch an aggressively priced new COSC-certified collection

Many brands and many people have taken a chance on Time+Tide since we launched, way back in 2014. One of the greater leaps of faith was earlier this year, when Longines gave us permission to spend time in their archives, and extended a standing invitation to several international events. The aim was to create a … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A flashback through a year of Longines stories, and one last hurrah in Beijing to launch an aggressively priced new COSC-certified collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Smoke gets in your eyes – the Montblanc Heritage Spirit Perpetual Calendar Sapphire Time+Tide
Montblanc Heritage Spirit Perpetual Calendar May 4, 2017

VIDEO: Smoke gets in your eyes – the Montblanc Heritage Spirit Perpetual Calendar Sapphire

When we evaluate a watch, one of our key criteria is clarity. Things like: Is the watch legible? Can you read the time in an instant? But clarity isn’t everything. There’s something to be said for mystery, and for artful concealment. And that’s exactly what makes the Montblanc Heritage Spirit Perpetual Calendar Sapphire so appealing. On … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Smoke gets in your eyes – the Montblanc Heritage Spirit Perpetual Calendar Sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: @rinascitaconcepts Time+Tide
Apr 8, 2017

WHO TO FOLLOW: @rinascitaconcepts

Owner of Rinascita Concepts, Dino lives and breathes quality – as you’ll see through his Instagram feed. Head over and you’ll find some of the finest custom accessories and haute horology that money can buy. NAME: Richard AKA ‘Dino’ OCCUPATION: Lover of gears on a large and small scale, and part-time creator of watch accessories. … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @rinascitaconcepts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.