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Results for Lug-to-Lug

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Seiko SKX007 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko May 15, 2025

Seiko SKX007 Review

We never really know how – or when – it happens, but some watches manage to achieve an iconic status that gives them a certain immortality long after discontinuation. We know the types, from the Speedmaster to the Submariner to the Royal Oak. But not all icons are pricey and they’re certainly not all Swiss. Enter the Seiko SKX007, a watch without a nickname, whose reference number is as recognizable as any of the aforementioned icons I just listed. The SKX, as we call it shorthand, is the value king in all of horology because of its capability from top to bottom, literally. Today we are going to be examining the SKX007, a watch that Seiko has since moved on from and never truly replaced. We will look at it at face value (as well as current secondary market value), for the watch’s impact on collector culture, and for its staying power even in the face of no longer remaining in production. Seiko SKX007 History And Specs In order to properly contextualize the SKX007, we must go back in time to the 1970s, when Seiko made its first impactful dive watch. Notice how I say "impactful," as the lot of you ready yourselves to remind me not to discount the 62MAS. For the record, I am not – at least not entirely. The 62MAS has proven to be a classic for Seiko, but the diver that really put the brand on the map in terms of culturally relevant tool watches was the Ref. 6105 which was worn by Martin Sheen in the film Apocalypse Now. It has since gone on to take the name of his c...

Serica Introduces the 5303 PLD, a New Diver Made in Collaboration with the French Navy Worn & Wound
Serica Introduces May 15, 2025

Serica Introduces the 5303 PLD, a New Diver Made in Collaboration with the French Navy

Serica has unveiled the new 5303 PLD, a new dive watch the brand has developed in partnership with the French Navy. Specifically, the watch was developed with the EOD (Explosive Ordinance Disposal) team, which, I think most people will understand, is a fairly highly specialized and dangerous diving discipline. The watch follows the form and function of Serica’s popular 5303 diver, but with a few small tweaks that distinguish it from the standard version without calling out to its inspiration too overtly.  The most notable and obvious change from the standard 5303 is the new bezel, which has a “DT Max” scale as opposed to the standard dive bezel that allows you to count minutes from a given start time. The DT Max bezel features twin scales (minutes and meters) that display the “maximum working time” at a given depth. This allows a diver, in theory, to ascend continuously without decompression stops, a necessity for EOD divers. The number at the outer scale (“profonduer,” or depth) relates directly to a number on the inner scale, the number of minutes a diver can safely work. Not super functional for anyone not on a dive, but it provides a very real reminder of the danger of the sport, and adds a certain charm to the piece. The bezel itself is rendered in a shade the brand refers to as “abyssal blue,” and it’s a very nice shade that further sets this diver apart from other watches in the Serica lineup.  Serica has also tweaked the dial in small ways for...

Fears Introduces the EXPERIMENTAL 01 and the Brunswick 40 “Odyssey Edition” Worn & Wound
Fears May 15, 2025

Fears Introduces the EXPERIMENTAL 01 and the Brunswick 40 “Odyssey Edition”

Never one to shy away from their heritage as a British watchmaker, Fears has cooked up yet another savvy partnership that highlights their ability to innovate while holding down a cohesive aesthetic. This time, however, the collaboration isn’t with another watchmaker or boutique. Rather, it comes to us in the form of a watch built for “A Great British Odyssey” in which ultra endurance athlete Angus Collins will attempt to become the first person to complete an unsupported, solo row around mainland Great Britain. Fears has signed on as Collins’ official timekeeping partner, and has designed and produced a purpose-built timepiece for the task-a special version of their Brunswick 40mm, the EXPERIMENTAL 01.  A savvy British watch fan may pause here and say, “hang on-since when does Fears do tool watches?” The EXPERIMENTAL 01 is the brand’s first foray into the ultra-utility category of timekeeping since the 1970s, and though it’s based on the structure of the Brunswick 40 (originally launched in October 2022), it also features eight highlighted improvements that make it purpose built for Collins’ task: a fixed bar attachment (laser-welded onto the lugs), a satinised case finish, 300 meters of water resistance, a glare resistant dial, Grade X2 Super-LumiNova on the hands and appliques, ultra-contrast hands, an MN Elasticated strap, and rigorous in-house precision time testing.  Style-wise, the EXPERIMENTAL 01 draws heavily from its source material, the B...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Marathon May 15, 2025

Windup in a Bay 2025: Campfires, Cold Water, Watches, and Gear with Marathon Watch Company and Prometheus Design Werx

The second annual Windup in a Bay expedition brought the Windup spirit straight to the Monterey Bay Area, running in tandem with the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco. This year’s adventure wasn’t just about diving-it was about building a full-circle experience, starting with a scenic campout at Elkhorn Ranch, and culminating in an open-water dive off the dramatic coast of Carmel. Returning as the dive watch sponsor was Marathon, whose reputation for hard-use, no-nonsense dive watches is second to none. New to the mix: Prometheus Design Werx, coming aboard as the official gear sponsor and loading out the crew with equipment designed to meet every challenge, whether by land or by sea. The post Windup in a Bay 2025: Campfires, Cold Water, Watches, and Gear with Marathon Watch Company and Prometheus Design Werx appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Fratello Talks: The Best Modern Omega Speedmasters Fratello
Omega Speedmasters It’s no secret May 15, 2025

Fratello Talks: The Best Modern Omega Speedmasters

It’s no secret that we’re Speedmaster fans here at Fratello. RJ, our founder, is an avid collector of these chronographs and the mind behind #SpeedyTuesday. But not all Speedies are created equal. Today, we’re looking at some of the best modern Omega Speedmaster models. RJ, Thomas, and Nacho have tasked themselves with selecting their top […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Best Modern Omega Speedmasters to read the full article.

Ming Introduces the New 29.01 “Midnight” Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Ming May 14, 2025

Ming Introduces the New 29.01 “Midnight” Worldtimer

Ming has announced their latest release, a follow up to the 29.01 Worldtimer which launched in 2023. The new 29.01 Midnight is conceived as the flipside to the original, which was presented in titanium with a blue/black gradient dial. The new watch is a blacked out version, with a DLC coating on the titanium case, and a black dial with layers of sapphire and, as we often see with Ming, loaded with lume. The release follows a bit of a pattern we saw with the 37.09, which debuted with the bright and colorful Bluefin about one year ago, and saw a darker sibling emerge several months later with the Uni. The colorway of the 29.01 Midnight is, in fact, directly lifted from the Uni, providing yet another connection between Ming watch families.  The 29.01 is one of my personal favorite examples of Ming’s higher end, haute horlogery offerings, as the worldtimer format really allows the brand to flex a bit. While I think many probably associate Ming with a certain strain of minimalism, the 29.01, by necessity, is throwing a lot at you, and it’s a great accomplishment on Ming’s part that the watch is able to communicate so much so clearly.  Here’s how it works. The cities representing the world’s time zones are printed on a sapphire upper dial. Below that, a metal base dial with a very subtle grained finish has the 24 hour scale printed on it. Throughout the day, the base dial rotates so that the 24 hour scale lines up with the correct time in each world city, hour by hou...

Naoya Hida & Co. Has Announced their 2025 Releases Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe May 14, 2025

Naoya Hida & Co. Has Announced their 2025 Releases

Seeing a watch made by Naoya Hida & Co. in person for the first time was one of those moments when you truly realize that you have to experience a watch in the metal before casting judgement. At the time, the brand was only in its second full year, and most of the people commenting on the watches in online forums, Instagram, etc. were reacting to what they perceived as an exorbitant price tag. These specific watches, after all, used a (highly) modified Valjoux 7750 as the base movement – not exactly high horology. But when you handle one of these watches, wear it, and, importantly, turn the crown, you realize you’re dealing with an object that’s largely handmade, a fully fleshed out complete thought with a singular perspective. That’s a pretty rare thing, as are the hand carved dials that have become an aesthetic signature of the brand, and truly require magnification to fully grapple with. Naoya Hida & Co. has just unveiled their new slate of watches for 2025, and I imagine we’re heading for some of the same conversations we’ve heard before, but there’s a new watch in this crop of releases that should quiet at least some of the naysayers.  The marquee release in this year’s lineup is the NH Type 6A, Naoya Hida’s most complicated watch to date and their first perpetual calendar. The 6A is made in the same vintage inspired style as all of Naoya Hida’s other watches, evoking classic pieces by Patek Philippe and others (but mostly Patek, let’s be honest...

Report: Geneva Spring Auctions 2025 SJX Watches
Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari May 14, 2025

Report: Geneva Spring Auctions 2025

Despite everything, including tariffs and a strong Swiss franc, the Geneva auction season turned out to be a strong one, with some of the strongest results being in the most surprising segments. The bigger winner this season was Phillips, which sold a bit under 200 lots for CHF43.4 million including fees, while also claiming the most valuable lots for the season, reflecting Phillips’ strong leadership and team. Despite being the market leader by some margin, the Phillips catalogue was arguably the riskiest as it included several high-value pocket watches and clocks – timepieces that not part of mainstream collecting today. Yet the gamble paid off with the most valuable timepiece this season being its Breguet Sympathique no. 1 that sold for CHF5.51 million. Christie’s achieved CHF21.2 million with a similar number of lots that were arguably more conventional in taste and format than at Phillips. One of its most valuable lots was a Cartier Crash “NSO” with a special order dial that sold for CHF736,000 – one of the biggest surprises of the season but proof that being eye-catching enough for social media is a big factor in desirability and value today. Interestingly, the Crash sold for exactly the same as the Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari. The Crash went for about 15 times the original retail, while the RM UP-01 was about half of retail. The Crash NSO “nickele” grey. Image – Christie’s Over at Antiquorum, the tally was CHF10 million – from almost 800 lot...

Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Mecaquartz Salmon Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Mecaquartz Salmon Many May 14, 2025

Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Mecaquartz Salmon

Many love an excellent mecaquartz chronograph. Brands can spend more money on the looks of such watches thanks to their affordable movements. These watches often punch above their weight, at least visually. Others say they are cheap interpretations of the real deal, a timepiece with a mechanical movement. I received the new Nivada Chronosport Blue […] Visit Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Mecaquartz Salmon to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Ice Blue Kurono Tokyo 2025 Jubilee Sensu EOL Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo 2025 Jubilee Sensu EOL May 14, 2025

Introducing – The New Ice Blue Kurono Tokyo 2025 Jubilee Sensu EOL

After several years of covering this independent Japanese watch brand, you should now be familiar with Kurono Tokyo‘s work. And if not, what matters here is that we’re looking at the accessible side of independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka (also behind the return of Takano), with classic designs and outsourced movements to keep the prices reasonable. […]

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Rose Gold SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton has been making inroads May 14, 2025

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Rose Gold

The recently resurrected Daniel Roth brand has added a second regular production model to its catalogue, the Extra Plat Rose Gold. It’s powered by the same DR002 movement found in the Extra Plat Souscription, a 20-piece limited edition in yellow gold with a solid case back, now with a sapphire case back to show off the handsome, shaped calibre inside. Image – Daniel Roth Initial Thoughts It’s no secret that Louis Vuitton has been making inroads into independent watchmaking, through collaborations with leading independents and the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. Louis Vuitton has taken a more direct approach by reviving one of the first modern independents, and it seems to have paid off. Ironically, despite being the product of a luxury giant, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat is comparable to many offerings from niche makers, which can be seen as praise of the former or reproval of the latter. Image – Daniel Roth In another contradiction, the Extra Plat’s 7.7 mm height isn’t exactly extra-flat by the standards of a two-hand, manually wound dress watch. For comparison, the original Extra Plat Automatic from 1990 was 6.7 mm thick, and the manual version was only 6 mm. This can be attributed to the new movement, which is thicker than those in historical Extra Plat models, but constructed and finished to a much higher standard, while also being an in-house calibre (the originals were powered by Frederic Piguet). Image – Daniel Roth The new regular production has more mainst...

Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces The Deep Diver In Collaboration With Bamford Watch Department Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces May 14, 2025

Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces The Deep Diver In Collaboration With Bamford Watch Department

As many of you know, the late ’60s and the first half of the ’70s were an era of design experimentation in the watch industry. While Girard-Perregaux might not be the first name on people’s tongues when it comes to funky watches from this period, don’t think the brand didn’t have any. With the Casquette […] Visit Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces The Deep Diver In Collaboration With Bamford Watch Department to read the full article.

Introducing: The Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface May 14, 2025

Introducing: The Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface

What happens when you take the 2755 QP movement out of the 2017 Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 (ref. 80172/000R-B406), update the design so it caters to an audience with a more contemporary taste, and put it in the sportiest of watch designs available? You get the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface. This limited-production watch is […] Visit Introducing: The Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin’s First Chiming Sports Watch, the Overseas Grand Complication SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s First Chiming Sports May 13, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s First Chiming Sports Watch, the Overseas Grand Complication

Vacheron Constantin (VC) continues its 270th anniversary festivities with its first minute-repeating sports watch, the Overseas Grand Complication Openface. In addition to the repeater, the manually wound movement also features a perpetual calendar, tourbillon, and rear-facing power reserve indicator. All of this is housed in a titanium case rated to 30 m, which is a notable degree of water resistance for a chiming watch. This is also the first Overseas model with the “Openface” treatment, which pays homage to rock crystal dials found in vintage clocks and pocket watches with a clear sapphire dial exposing the perpetual calendar works. Image – Vacheron Constantin Initial Thoughts It’s unusual, but a chiming sports watch makes sense considering the direction of consumer preferences for complications. That said, the minute repeater has been slow to make its way into sports watches, despite enjoying renewed popularity for the past few decades, due to the challenges of waterproofing the charging slide and preserving sound quality. This has created a perception of water resistance and sound being mutually exclusive, which has only recently been challenged. Audemars Piguet was an early pioneer with water-resistant repeaters, and now Vacheron Constantin has entered the fray with a water-resistant minute-repeating integrated-bracelet sports watch of its own. While 30 m of water resistance is low compared to other models in the Overseas collection, it’s significant for a ...

“Patina” or Damage? Scrutinizing the Fine Line Between Pleasing and Pesky Imperfections Worn & Wound
Rado x involves May 13, 2025

“Patina” or Damage? Scrutinizing the Fine Line Between Pleasing and Pesky Imperfections

The Ship of Theseus paradox involves the legendary vessel that Theseus––a Greek mythological hero who rescued the children of Athens and slayed the Minotaur of Crete––traveled on. To honor his valiant efforts, the Athenians preserved the ship and, over time, swapped parts that decayed or had become damaged, eventually replacing all of its original components. This, in turn, begs the question: is it still Theseus’ ship even if all the parts have been replaced? If not, at what point did it cease to be the original?  Now that our history lecture is over, I want to utilize this idea of time and identity to talk about a topic near and dear to our watch-collecting hearts: patina. A number of journalists and enthusiasts have discussed what patina is, how it can be defined in a horological sense, and the many forms it can take, but no one (to my knowledge) has discussed when deterioration or damage becomes patina. This may seem like a rather abstract subject to discuss, but most, if not all, collectors take condition into consideration when shopping for a watch. The two main questions that will help get to the bottom of this patina paradox are: 1.) At what point does damage become patina? and 2.) Is patina just a buzzword to market a watch with lots of aesthetic flaws?  The Evolution of Flaws to Patina One of patina’s most essential characteristics is its dependability on age. The natural degradation of luminous material, the color-changing properties of a dial often...

Zenith Defy Skyline Review Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith May 13, 2025

Zenith Defy Skyline Review

While the El Primero movement architecture may serve as the face of the Zenith brand, it is the Defy collection that remains its soul. The Defy represents an historically significant ethos for Zenith, a creative foundation that is just as important to the Swiss brand’s past as it is to its future. Originally meant to be a showcase of innovation and ideas, the Defy collection serves dual purposes: to preserve and celebrate innovations of the past in the “Revival” subfamily, and to continue innovating for the future in the series’ other branches. In 2022, the brand took a big step toward the future of the collection with the release of the Zenith Defy Skyline, a watch that simultaneously looked to build on successful elements of the past and also to capitalize on the integrated-bracelet sport watch trend that had taken hold of the industry. The Zenith Defy collection has roots in the 1960s and ‘70s, when many of the brand’s most iconic and exciting references were released (you can read a more in-depth history here). Many of these have been reborn in the form of modern Revival references, allowing a new generation of enthusiasts to discover them again, or for the first time. These designs weren’t afraid to take risks, from the shape of the case, to the bracelet integration, right into the dial colors and textures. The Defy name quickly came to signify a huge amount of character, and that’s on full display within the brand’s current stable.  In finding a mo...

Hands-On: the echo/neutra Chrono GMT Worn & Wound
May 13, 2025

Hands-On: the echo/neutra Chrono GMT

Sometimes, no matter how many hours we spend scrolling on Instagram and monitoring various watch-focused group chats, things slip through the cracks. Watches that check all the right boxes to rise above the noise of a crowded market go unnoticed and become sleeper hits instead of hits, and creativity that deserves widespread celebration instead receives a splattering of quiet applause. For collectors that enjoy witnessing brands evolve and develop distinct design DNA in real time, it can be a bummer to discover your radar missed something great. But on the bright side, this scenario allows for instant gratification and the opportunity to speed run a brand’s evolution to the present day. This was my experience when Italian microbrand echo/neutra released the Rivanera at the end of last year. Like many of you, I was pleasantly caught off guard by the rugged take on the classic rectangular dress watch, but didn’t recognize the name divided by a distinct slash on the dial. This sent me digging through surprisingly sparse reviews and forum threads where I discovered that the Rivanera was far from beginner’s luck, and was actually the result of a year’s long evolution that began in the way many do, with a safe and somewhat generic field watch on Kickstarter. Watching aging YouTube videos, this actual first release called the Averau (which later included a very cool moon phase) looks like exactly the type of watch I would’ve chased in 2019 when specs and MSRP were my pr...

Fratello On Air: How Vintage Watch Shenanigans Hurt The Hobby Fratello
May 13, 2025

Fratello On Air: How Vintage Watch Shenanigans Hurt The Hobby

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss a recent news story about another questionable vintage watch. We aren’t taking sides, but it allows us to mention, yet again, the pain it causes the hobby. Still, plenty of great pieces are out there if you do your homework. This podcast […] Visit Fratello On Air: How Vintage Watch Shenanigans Hurt The Hobby to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Snowflake Review Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko May 12, 2025

Grand Seiko Snowflake Review

  The Grand Seiko “Snowflake” is not just a watch that helped define Grand Seiko as a luxury brand to be reckoned with in the 21st Century: it is also at the vanguard of an industry-wide movement toward making dials more beautiful, enticing, and unique - not only with the bold use of color, but with textures that play with the concept of 3D space and the interplay of light and shadow. Nearly every Grand Seiko model of note can claim a dial (and often a nickname) with a distinctly eye-catching motif, usually inspired by the breathtaking natural wonders of the company’s native Japan. Other luxury watch brands have noticed and followed suit - from luxury leaders like Rolex,  Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, to attainable brands like little-brother Seiko and its main competitor, Citizen. The “Snowflake,” Grand Seiko’s first and still most famous textured dial, is arguably the OG of this trend; here is the story of how it came to be and where it stands today. As success stories for new watch brands go, it’s hard to find a better case study in the past decade than Grand Seiko. The Japanese high-luxury watchmaker has, in its relatively short stint in the international market, elevated itself in the eyes of many collectors to the upper echelon of watchmaking prestige and collectibility, competing for connoisseur attention and dollars with well-established maisons from Switzerland and Germany. This plaudit, of course, comes with a caveat: Grand Seiko is not ...

Introducing – The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days Gübelin Special Edition Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 May 12, 2025

Introducing – The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days Gübelin Special Edition

Collaborations are one of the hottest trends in watchmaking today, as brands, high and low, team up with artists, retailers, collectors – you name it – to create special customised editions. The latest collaboration involves Italian powerhouse Bulgari and Gübelin, the Swiss, family-owned jewellery and watch retailer. The model selected is the Octo Finissimo Skeleton […]