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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 Vs. Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42 Fratello
Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic Sep 21, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 Vs. Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42

Turn on the coffee machine because it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. In this week’s battle, two retro-infused dive watches take center stage. The first is the recently released Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218. It’s a modern remake of a 1993 classic made exclusively for the Italian Navy. It will face off against the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 Vs. Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42 to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Ahead Of Time, The Pursuit Pro, and Stroup Hobby Shop Worn & Wound
Ressence Ressence has partnered Sep 20, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Ahead Of Time, The Pursuit Pro, and Stroup Hobby Shop

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Ahead Of Time: Celebrating 15 Years of Ressence Ressence has partnered with the Belgian publishing house Luster on Ahead of Time, a new book released to celebrate the independent watch brand’s 15 year anniversary. This, however, is not a typical watch book (which we’d never expect from Ressence, anyway). Ahead of Time is billed as an exploration of what the future will look like, and features interviews with 20 leading voices in design and technology. Among the participants are OpenAI CEO Sam Altman, Airbnb co-founder Joe Gebbia, and Kering CEO Luca de Meo. The new book is available now through the Ressence website, and sells for $35.   Stroup Hobby Shop In a recent New York Times article, Michael Venutolo-Mantovani pulls back the curtain on the operation, showing just what makes the Stroup Hobby Shop tick. Originally founded by H.M. Stroup in 1949, the Stroup Hobby Shop began as a retirement hobby that would become the foundation for four generations of master clockmakers. Working alongside his grandfather, father, and brother, Luther joined the shop part time in 1972, before turning the family hobby into a business the following year. Over the last 76 years, nea...

Introducing: The New Farer Three Hands Series III Collection Fratello
Farer Three Hands Series III Sep 20, 2025

Introducing: The New Farer Three Hands Series III Collection

Farer continues to roll out attractive and affordable watches packed with value. The British brand turned 10 this year, and I’m impressed with how it has matured. Plus, as someone residing in the UK, I’ve begun seeing an increasing number of the company’s watches in the wild. Positively, today’s new releases, the Three Hands Series […] Visit Introducing: The New Farer Three Hands Series III Collection to read the full article.

Announcement: Brandon Moore Joins SJX Watches as Full-Time Editorial Director SJX Watches
Sep 19, 2025

Announcement: Brandon Moore Joins SJX Watches as Full-Time Editorial Director

Seven years after writing his first editorial for SJX Watches, Brandon Moore joins the SJX team as full-time Editorial Director. Like many of us, Brandon got his start in the watch community through the PuristS forum (now WatchProSite), in 2008. A decade later he began writing about topics like the community’s obsession with in-house movements and how finishing has captured the industry in the age of social media. In 2023 he became a regular contributor while still working full time in software sales, until now. Brandon’s personal interests lie in contemporary high-end watchmaking, with a particular affinity for independent brands, a long-time focus of SJX Watches. He also enjoys pulling back the curtain on watch production with behind-the-scenes visits to manufactures big and small. In addition, Brandon co-hosts the SJX Podcast, where he and SJX cover new releases and industry news in a more candid format.  

Rolex Daytona Rainbow: When An Icon Goes Colorfully Gem-Set Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Sep 19, 2025

Rolex Daytona Rainbow: When An Icon Goes Colorfully Gem-Set

Aside from the watch that was made legendary by Paul Newman - and which would forever, unofficially, carry the famous actor’s name - there is probably no version of the Rolex Daytona that is more coveted than the “Rainbow” models that bring a meticulously designed and eye-catchingly beautiful assortment of colorful precious stones to the bezel, case, and dial of the motorsport-inspired luxury chronograph. Here is the story behind the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” and why it has become yet another smash hit for the Crown in the 21st Century.  To start off, it’s worth answering the question, “Why is the Rolex Daytona so famous in the first place?” The model’s success story begins in 1962, when Rolex, hot on the heels of other genre-defining watch releases like the Explorer, GMT-Master, and Submariner several years earlier, became the official timekeeper of the “Great American Race,” the Daytona 500. In celebration of the partnership, the Swiss brand introduced its original “Cosmograph” racing-inspired chronograph watch the following year. The watch, notable for its tachymeter bezel and three-register dial design, adopted the name “Daytona” shortly thereafter and really took the enthusiast community by storm when actor, director, and part-time racecar driver Paul Newman began wearing one regularly. Newman became a big-screen icon in the 1970s, around the same time that auto racing took off in popularity as a spectator sport, and this confluence of...

Our Favorite Seiko Watches of All Time Worn & Wound
Rolex Sep 19, 2025

Our Favorite Seiko Watches of All Time

When it comes right down to it, there’s no more important watch brand to the enthusiast community than Seiko. Sure, Rolex is the biggest brand in the world, and the most recognizable brand name (for any product) ever. But no other brand matches Seiko for variety, accessibility, quality, and pure fun. There’s truly something for everybody under the Seiko tent, and it’s a brand that we find ourselves unable to quit, even when they frustrate us for any number of reasons.  But this isn’t about those frustrations. This post is about the Seikos we love the most. We asked our contributors to pick their favorite Seiko of all time, and we think as you read through these selections you’ll find that the thing that ties them all together is a deep personal connection to a watch. That’s what’s at the heart of this hobby, and what makes Seiko so special.  We want to know the Seikos that you love the most, so let us know in the comments what you’d pick.  Elodie Townsend – Seiko Flightmaster SNA411P1 I can’t hear the name Seiko without getting misty-eyed about the watch that introduced me to the wider world of horology fandom: the Seiko Flightmaster SNA411P1. It’s big, brazenly busy, and admittedly over-packed with features that I would never use (calculus, anyone), but that pop of yellow and the charm of its over-complications make it a joy to wear, use, and show off.  My dad got me my “Flighty” as a gift for my 21st birthday years back; when the price hadn...

The Evergreens – The History of the Heuer and TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Without Sep 19, 2025

The Evergreens – The History of the Heuer and TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

Without a doubt, one of the most important racing chronographs ever created and arguably the most emblematic watch of the entire history of Heuer and TAG Heuer… From the first 1963 Heuer Carrera chronographs in the original round cases, the C-Shape cases to house the new automatic movements in 1969, the barrel-shaped Carreras, powered by […]

Fortis Introduces the Stratoliner S-41 Reentry Edition, with a Heat Treated Titanium Dial Worn & Wound
Fortis Introduces Sep 19, 2025

Fortis Introduces the Stratoliner S-41 Reentry Edition, with a Heat Treated Titanium Dial

Space, fire, time. These things are elemental, conduits to deep discussions about our place in the universe, and the nature of life itself. What does it all mean? It’s the stuff of 3:00 AM dorm room deep dives, the kinds of conversations that happen after watching 2001 for the first time. Every so often, a piece of art, or an object (or even a watch!) scratches at these ideas. That’s what I started to ponder, anyway, when I first read about the new Fortis Stratoliner S-41 Reentry Edition, a striking new version of their spacefaring chronograph with a unique (literally) dial with one of the more interesting concepts behind it that I’ve seen this year.  The highlight here, as you can likely derive from the images, is the dial that has been heat treated by hand. The inspiration comes from spacecraft reentering the earth’s atmosphere. This happens at an incredibly high rate of speed – roughly 15,000 miles per hour. At that velocity, the friction caused by the spacecraft as it comes in contact with the atmosphere essentially turns said spacecraft into a small, fast moving, fireball. Have you seen Apollo 13? Then you know basically how this works. A heat shield designed to control that burn keeps astronauts on board safe, and the critical structure of the spacecraft intact.  According to Fortis, every Reentry Edition dial is heat treated by hand and completely unique, thanks to the unpredictable nature of the impact of fire on the titanium surface. The heat produces ...

Hands-On With The New Lederer CIC 39 Longitude Fratello
Sep 19, 2025

Hands-On With The New Lederer CIC 39 Longitude

Just one year ago, I was introduced to Lederer watches. The brand, founded by Bernhard Lederer, creates incredible movements with complex mechanisms. Constant-force escapements and twin gear trains are some of the impressive details. Last year, I fell in love with the Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer, a set of 44mm watches that had traveled to […] Visit Hands-On With The New Lederer CIC 39 Longitude to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Goes Gold SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Goes Gold Grand Seiko Sep 19, 2025

Grand Seiko Goes Gold

Grand Seiko has unveils three gold Spring Drive models with the new 9RA2 movement, the Japan-only Heritage Collection SLGA030, SLGA027 and SLGA028, in rose, white, and yellow gold respectively. The new collection benefits from a slimmer case, a longer power reserve, and some new dials to go with the satisfying heft of a full 18k gold bracelet that weighs in at almost 200 g. SLGA030 in rose gold. Initial Thoughts While mostly unknown outside Japan, a trio of gold Spring Drive models in 44GS-style cases on full gold bracelets were a staple of the domestic Grand Seiko catalog for nearly a decade, powered by the cal. 9R15 that was once the brand’s finest automatic Spring Drive movement. While identical to the cal. 9R65, save for a gold medallion on the rotor, Seiko set aside the best performing quartz timing packages for these special movements. The earlier generation of all-gold models, from left to right: SBGA364, SBGA361, and SBGA362. Grand Seiko has decided that now is the time to refresh the line with the upgraded cal. 9RA2, while preserving the heavyweight gravitas and luxurious bracelet of its predecessor. I have anticipated these watches since the second generation of Spring Drive movements launched in 2020; it took five years, but the result meets my expectations, though I would have liked a gold winding weight to match the case material. Selling watches on full precious metal bracelets in this segment is a mark of a strong brand. Gold prices and luxury margins bein...

Introducing – The Reality of Time, the Return of the Vianney Halter Classic with The Limited Edition UK Monochrome
Sep 19, 2025

Introducing – The Reality of Time, the Return of the Vianney Halter Classic with The Limited Edition UK

Independent watchmaking has always been about mechanics, but also a dialogue between visionaries and collectors who believe in them. For its 10th anniversary, The Limited Edition has chosen to celebrate with a creation that embodies the very spirit of modern artisanal horology. The result is Reality of Time, a collaboration between Pietro Tomajer, Amr Sindi […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Big Brands Fratello
Sep 19, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Big Brands

Another Friday, another list! We return to a series of budget-related lists after focusing on Geneva Watch Days for two weeks and finding the best collabs last week. Today, we’re starting another three-list series focusing on budget-friendly watches. Not too long ago, we compiled a trio of lists covering the best available picks under €500. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Big Brands to read the full article.

What is a Rehaut on a Watch Dial? Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 18, 2025

What is a Rehaut on a Watch Dial?

Most parts of a watch that you’ll encounter in your pursuit of horological knowledge are names that are fairly familiar and mostly self-explanatory: case, dial, hands, movement. (We run down the gamut of the most important watch parts in this article). But now and then, you may read about, or hear someone referring to, a watch’s rehaut - a somewhat intimidating-sounding French term that might give you pause at first. What is a rehaut, and what is it used for? Read on. Put simply, a rehaut (properly pronounced “Re-OHH” without the hard “T” sound at the end) is the French word for “flange,” which is the English term most often used in its place when discussing watches. It describes the rim between the periphery of the dial and the crystal. Unlike dials and cases and hands, not every watch has one. But for many of those that do, the rehaut is not only a frame that fills in the space between the dial edge and the crystal but also a utilitarian element that can add interest and even useful information to the dial itself.  Some watchmakers use the rehaut for staging the hour or minute markers, In the case of chronographs, like the TAG Heuer Carrera featured above, the rehaut can provide a spot for added functional markings like a tachymeter scale (which can use the built-in stopwatch to measure speeds relative to distance) or a pulsimeter (which works with the chronograph to measure heartbeat rates). Other watches might use the rehaut for calendar indications ...

Frederique Constant Updates the Classics Premiere Line with New Dials and a New Bracelet Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Updates Sep 18, 2025

Frederique Constant Updates the Classics Premiere Line with New Dials and a New Bracelet

In some ways, Frederique Constant remains an outlier in a market that thrives on hype. Traditionally, the Swiss brand has built somewhat of a reputation as being a tortoise – slow and steady, releasing classic styles – versus the hares who seemed more concerned about virality than crafting a timeless piece. Because of this, even the smallest changes to their collections can raise the proverbial eyebrow and gain a little attention. Case in point: the newest in their Classics Premiere line-up. During Geneva Watch Days, it was a series of small adjustments that caught our attention. Most notably, the release of two new colors (blue and salmon – previously only a EU exclusive), the Art Deco-inspired Arabic numerals, and the release of a new steel bracelet. Each of these small components ultimately make an otherwise standard watch within the Frederique Constant line-up feel a little refreshed among its peers. For those unfamiliar with the Classics Premiere collection, it’s a smaller series, coming in at just 38.5mm (or a “delicate” size, as Frederique Constant’s marketing team puts it – isn’t that cute?). Within that petit (or would it be klein? I never know in Switzerland) stainless steel case houses a FC-301 automatic caliber (base LJPG100), giving the wearer an impressive 68-hour power reserve.  Regarding the design of this particular pair, the new use of Breguet style numerals complements the overall vintage charm of the Classics Premiere. This is further...

Tissot Unearths the RockWatch SJX Watches
Tissot Unearths Sep 18, 2025

Tissot Unearths the RockWatch

Tissot reissues the iconic RockWatch of 1985, now in a larger case but once again made of granite sourced from the Swiss Alps. Although Tissot took a few liberties to suit modern tastes, such upsizing the case to 38 mm and adding monochromatic hands, the new RockWatch is impressive for its fidelity to the original, and retains all of the important details including its one-piece case and dial. Limited to 999 pieces, the RockWatch extends Tissot’s run of mining gems from its back catalogue. Initial thoughts Tissot has been digging through its archives for over a decade now. After excavating the enormously successful PRX in 2021, the colourful Sideral in 2023, and long-dormant Stylist last year, Tissot has finally hit bedrock. Watch cases carved from stone predate even the balance spring, but remained extremely niche and were often quite expensive until Tissot’s original 1985 RockWatch. While originally launched in Alpine marble, the line expanded to include numerous other materials. Historical RockWatches were produced in a variety of materials and featured red and yellow hands inspired by Alpine trail markers. As with most modern reissues, the 38 mm RockWatch is significantly larger than the originals, which were offered in 23 mm, 30 mm, and 33 mm sizes. In addition, modern AR-coated sapphire stands in for the tempered glass crystal of the original. Though larger, the construction is consistent with that of the original with its monobloc case and dial, which are milled...

Introducing: The Handcrafted Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Horse And Three Other Themed Watches Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Horse Sep 18, 2025

Introducing: The Handcrafted Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Horse And Three Other Themed Watches

Let’s start with a riddle: what comes after tiger, dragon, and snake? The correct answer is “horse,” as you probably have guessed after reading the title. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Horse will debut ahead of the Chinese New Year at the brand’s Dream Shaper exhibition in Shanghai in September 2025. The watch pays tribute […] Visit Introducing: The Handcrafted Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Horse And Three Other Themed Watches to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Gerald Charles CEO Federico Ziviani [Live In Geneva] Fratello
Gerald Charles Sep 18, 2025

Fratello Talks: Gerald Charles CEO Federico Ziviani [Live In Geneva]

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello Talks. This week, we come to you live from Geneva for a special conversation with Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles. For those unfamiliar, Gerald Charles is the independent watch brand founded in 2000 by the late, great Gérald Genta. Today, under the stewardship of Ziviani, the brand […] Visit Fratello Talks: Gerald Charles CEO Federico Ziviani [Live In Geneva] to read the full article.

The Rock Watch is Back, and We Smell What Tissot is Cooking Worn & Wound
Tissot Sep 17, 2025

The Rock Watch is Back, and We Smell What Tissot is Cooking

Stone dials, as we’re all aware, have been having a moment over these last couple of years. Time, I suppose, will tell if the prevalence of stone dials across more affordable price ranges is a trend, or just a new part of the watch landscape that we’ll all just accept and live with, like green dials, or carbon cases. With the renewed popularity of this inherently 1970s/80s inspired design cue, it was really only a matter of time before we saw the return of a watch that takes the use of stone to a different level entirely. The Tissot Rock Watch, an artifact of the 1980s if ever there was one, is back, albeit in a limited edition that might be tough to acquire depending on your geography (more on that in a bit).  First, a little background on the Rock Watch. Launched in 1985, Tissot claims that the Rock Watch was the first ever watch with a case and dial made entirely from granite procured from the Swiss Alps. I’ll admit here that I haven’t done a ton of scholarly research on the topic, but I’m willing to take Tissot at face value here simply because granite is a particularly difficult material to work with, requiring highly specific machines and tooling. It’s a watch that doesn’t make a ton of practical sense from a production standpoint, but naturally was quite popular in the mid 80s and eventually spawned an entire collection for Tissot that featured a huge variety of exotic stones. Original Rock Watches from the 1980s The new version of the Rock Watch rema...

Meet The New Bell & Ross BR-X3 - A Watch Built For Extremes Fratello
Bell & Ross BR-X3 - Sep 17, 2025

Meet The New Bell & Ross BR-X3 - A Watch Built For Extremes

I have long had a soft spot for Bell & Ross’s X series. The BR-X1 chronographs were some of the most technically ambitious pieces the brand has ever produced, and the BR-X5 models proved that this ultra-modern side of the catalog could also deliver good looks. With that in mind, it was only a matter […] Visit Meet The New Bell & Ross BR-X3 - A Watch Built For Extremes to read the full article.

Introducing: Three 38mm Perpetual Calendars From Audemars Piguet Fratello
Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet Sep 17, 2025

Introducing: Three 38mm Perpetual Calendars From Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet is known for many things, and the perpetual calendar is certainly among them. From ultra-thin variants to recent Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar references, the complication has been a cornerstone of the brand’s horological reputation. Earlier this year, AP launched a new generation of calibers designed with ergonomics in mind inside 41mm Royal […] Visit Introducing: Three 38mm Perpetual Calendars From Audemars Piguet to read the full article.