Deployant
New: Longines Flagship Heritage Year of the Dragon
Longines celebrates the Year of the Dragon 2024 with a special edition of the Flagship Heritage model with moonphase. Limited edition 888 pcs.
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Deployant
Time+Tide
Why the emphasis on in-house needs to end
The potentially detrimental outcomes of the current trend of hailing in-house movements as the greatest thing since sliced bread.The post Why the emphasis on in-house needs to end appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Seiko Prospex King Turtle Black Series SRPK43
As we’ve seen recently with the attractive Diver GMT Arctic Ocean SPB439, there’s more to Seiko’s Prospex collection than just classic models. Black Series, PADI editions or Save the Ocean are some of the recurring sub-collections that have long been offered by the Japanese manufacturer. Today, Seiko adds a new model to its range of blackened […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Eska Amphibian 250, The Return of a Storied Brand With a Vintage Diver
Eska isn’t a brand that many are familiar with, but the Swiss watchmaker started production over a century ago. It shut its doors in the late 1980s, like many following the quartz crisis, but has now reemerged with the Amphibian 250, a faithful recreation of the old brand’s rarest diver, the Amphibian 600. Very few […]
SJX Watches
Blancpain Revisits the Traditional Chinese Calendar for the Year of the Dragon
Originally introduced 12 years ago, Blancpain’s Villeret Chinese Calendar was the first serially-produced wristwatch to feature this specific calendar. To mark the start of the new year, the brand unveils the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar “Year of the Wood Dragon“. Featuring both the Chinese and Gregorian calendar, the limited edition is presented in an unusual combination of green enamel and rose gold, a first for the model. Initial thoughts Though it is not longer unique, the Villeret Chinese Calendar was the first of its kind at launch in 2012, making it a landmark for Blancpain. However, the aesthetic went unchanged for all of that time, so a new dial is certainly welcome. While watch brands can often iterate a model too often, Blancpain certainly wasn’t guilty of that here. The new model is more striking than its predecessors. The dial departs from the white enamel that’s been standard for the model since the beginning. Though green is an unusual choice, it suits the complication well as it evokes the colour of jade, which is also thematically congruent with the theme. While it is good thing to see this watch with a new dial colour, it would have been even better to see an upgrade to the movement in some way, as the calibre has been unchanged since its introduction. While the movement is still impressive and complicated, it is big. In fact, a significant mechanical upgrade could be retaining the exact same calendar functions, but in a smaller or thin...
Video
The Constellation Meteorite 28 mm | OMEGA
Worn & Wound
Garrick Launches an S2 with the Most Esoteric of Complications: Deadbeat Seconds
Garrick, one of our favorite watchmakers in the burgeoning “micro-indie” space, has introduced a watch that is truly niche to start 2024. Really, it’s a niche of a niche, because even the most straightforward Garrick is a highly specialized enthusiast focused object. Each one is custom made for its owner, and Garrick offers a head spinning variety of customization options so clients can truly make their new watch their own. Now, with the latest entrant in Garrick’s growing S2 lineup, customers can opt for one of the most unusual and esoteric complications of all: the deadbeat second. The Garrick S2 Deadbeat Seconds employs the Calibre DB-GO6, a movement built from the ground up with an unusual party trick: instead of a smooth sweeping motion that most mechanical watch collectors are accustomed to, the seconds hand driven by this caliber “ticks” in a manner that is similar to a quartz watch. It’s anachronistic to say the least, and the complication has come to represent something akin to an insider’s secret for the way it upends expectations about how we expect a mechanical watch to function. Historically, the complication has roots in the scientific community, as timing events to the second in this manner was advantageous in certain circumstances. The S2 case is 42mm in stainless steel (gold cases are also available) and customers begin the custom ordering process by selecting either a MK 1 dial (with a heat blued skeletonized chapter ring) or a MK...
Monochrome
Video Review – Straight from South Korea, the Surprising Valérarch Serenity 39
We all know the mechanical watch industry is no longer solely for the Swiss, even though Switzerland is still very much the epicentre of all things watch-related. Nevertheless, we’ve seen brands from all corners of the world making watches that can measure up to mainstream ones on multiple occasions. New to us, and no doubt […]
Hodinkee
Ben Clymer Presents: Ep. 9 – The Golf And Watches Episode With Keith Mitchell
We sit down with the pro golfer to chat about his watch collection, his golf career, and even some deep cuts from Patek Philippe.
Monochrome
Introducing – IWC Welcomes the Year of the Dragon with a Burgundy-Toned Portugieser Chronograph
With watch brands across the board riding the Chinese New Year wave, there are no prizes for guessing which of the twelve animals represented in the Chinese Zodiac will be in the limelight this year. Admittedly one of the more attractive beasts to depict on a watch, the dragon replaces the rabbit of 2023 and […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Europe-Exclusive Seiko Prospex Tortoise SRPK77
When it was first presented back in 2021, the Seiko Prospex Land Series was a slightly confusing watch. Mixing elements from dive watches – the emblematic Turtle case with 200m water-resistance – with features from exploration watches – like the compass bezel usually found on the Alpinist – this amphibian model was hard to pin […]
Video
The Watches Of A Navy SEAL
Time+Tide
The IWC Ingenieur Titanium is Genta in the 21st century
Steel may be the go-to material for a luxe sports watch, but titanium just makes sense, doesn't it?The post The IWC Ingenieur Titanium is Genta in the 21st century appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Vanessa Redgrave’s Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner with Explorer Dial: Could it be The Female ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona? – Reprise
Are there special vintage watch dial variations named after notable women in a vein similar to that of the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona? Nick Gould was wondering just that and researched. Finding a photo of Vanessa Redgrave wearing a Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 with "Explorer" dial in 1966, he ruefully opines that this rare model would sound so much cooler as the Rolex "Vanessa Redgrave" Submariner rather than what collectors call it now: Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner with Explorer dial.
Worn & Wound
Citizen Drops a Pair of Godzilla Themed Ecozillas for the 70th Anniversary of the King of the Monsters
Godzilla, as he does from time to time, is having a moment. Godzilla Minus One was an unexpected hit in theaters at the end of last year, and as the first Godzilla film from Toho Co. studios to break through in America in years, it has some fans discovering a different side of the King of the Monsters. The Toho films, going back decades to the original Godzilla movies of the 1950s, have generally been a little more character driven and subtle than the bombastic, special effects laden American films. And a new Godzilla themed watch from Citizen is similarly subtle. It doesn’t beat you over the head (or…breathe fire at you) with Godzilla references, but it’s still clearly inspired by the iconic movie monster. It makes perfect sense for the Citizen Eco-Drive Professional Diver 300 to be the platform for a new Godzilla watch – the dive watch has long been known as the “Ecozilla” to collectors, and Citizen is happy to play up the connection. The watch arrives in a year that’s important to both Godzilla and Citizen, as each has a milestone birthday to celebrate: Godzilla turns 70, and Citizen marks the 100th anniversary of their first watch this year. The dial and bezel assembly of the new Godzilla piece feature a camo pattern that’s meant to recall the scales of Godzilla’s skin, and you’ll also find very small renditions of Godzilla within the pattern itself. There are two dial variants being offered, one in a classic black and another in a more in-your-...
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Yema Urban Sport Trilogy Brings Back Three of the Brand’s Icons
While the Superman, a skindiver piece, is by far the most emblematic model of French watchmaking brand Yema, three other names might ring a bell to some enthusiasts. All designed as professional instruments in the late 1960s or early 1970s, the Flygraf (pilot’s watch), Rallygraf (driver’s watch) and Yachtingraf (regatta watch) are now deeply rooted […]
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Missed Review: the Omega Seamaster Ploprof
The Omega Ploprof is one of the most interesting, iconic, and discussed of all dive watches. Its unusual design is unlike any other diver, and the watch itself has a rich and storied history. When it was introduced in 1970, it was originally conceived as a no-compromises tool for saturation divers. Since then, the Ploprof has evolved into a cult item. It’s still used, of course, for technical diving purposes by dive professionals, but in the years since Omega relaunched the watch in 2009, it’s also become a talisman of a very particular type of dive watch nerdery. It’s one of the most “inside baseball” watches Omega makes, and is beloved by enthusiasts for all of the reasons many in the general public would walk right by it. In this Missed Review, Blake Buettner explores the unique qualities of the Ploprof that make it special. Its unique design elements (the unusual case shape, a prominent crown guard system, the large orange button on the case flank, etc) are all there for very specific reasons rooted in the Ploprof’s extremely specific utility. Blake also gets into the history of the watch, and how this modern version (in titanium) differs from historical versions in unexpected ways. Omega Images from this post: The post Missed Review: the Omega Seamaster Ploprof appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Video
The Rolex And Zenith That Started It All.
Worn & Wound
The Latest Oris Big Crown Pointer Date LE is a Bronze Tribute to an Iconic Cricket Ground
Over the last few years, the world of watches has continued to expand its reach beyond watch enthusiasts. This, in turn, has allowed brands to speak to wider audiences and forge meaningful relationships with celebrities, charities, and more. Oris is no stranger to significant partnerships with a variety of outlets, and its latest Limited Edition tells a particularly unique and historically interesting story in the world of cricket. Introducing the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Father Time Limited Edition. A bit of context: Lord’s Cricket Ground in London is widely considered the “home of cricket”. Established in 1814, it is the oldest cricket stadium known to man and is beloved the world over. The ground’s owners, the Marylebone Cricket Club (or MCC), have partnered with Oris, making the Hölstein, Switzerland based watchmaker the very first official timekeeper over the ground’s two centuries. As a result of this partnership, the Oris branding sits proudly on the famous clock tower and near the iconic Father Time weathervane, after which this new limited edition watch is named. Father Time himself is cast of iron and is seen stooping over cricket stumps as he watches over the passage of time. Now onto the watch: unsurprisingly Oris has chosen to use the Big Crown Pointer Date as the foundation. As Oris’ most famous model, the BCPD has been in constant production since 1938 and has its roots in aviation. However it has since been seen as Oris’ calling card and a...
Monochrome
First Look – The Oris Father Time Limited Edition is a Cricket-Themed Bronze Big Crown
Given its complexity and often lethargic pace, cricket is not a sport that pops up in the crosshairs of watch brand alliances. However, in 2022, Oris struck an alliance with the Marylebone Cricket Club (MCC), becoming the first official timekeeper in the club’s history. Celebrating this three-year partnership, Oris and the MMC have collaborated on […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Oris Brings Back The Bronze For Its Latest Pointer Date Limited Edition
A new dial color keeps the heritage ties strong for the latest addition to the Pointer Date collection celebrating Oris' cricket collaboration.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Longines Heritage Flagship Moonphase Year of the Dragon
The Chinese New Year provides many watch companies with the perfect excuse to produce a special edition decorated with one of the twelve animals of the Chinese Zodiac. This year is the Year of the Dragon, and, for the first time, Longines jumps on the Chinese New Year bandwagon with a limited edition of 888 […]
Time+Tide
Is the OG Seiko SKX still worth its premium?
We revisit everyone's favourite entry-level diver. Does its charm excuse the fact it's no longer affordable?The post Is the OG Seiko SKX still worth its premium? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
The Vulcain Grand Prix honours the brand's award-winning history
SJX Watches
Rashid Tsoroev Introduces the Evo Arrow with a Hand-Hammered Dial
Based in the southernmost corner of Russia, Rashid Tsoroev is a watchmaker who got his start in 2019 with fairly simple time-only watches powered by the oversized ETA Unitas calibre. Now Mr Tsoroev has upgraded his work, both stylistically and mechanically, with the debut of the Evo Arrow that is priced affordably at US$5,000. Still a three-hand watch but now equipped with a La Joux-Perret (LJP) automatic, the Evo Arrow sports a hand-hammered brass dial – a technique is sometimes described as tremblage – that he makes himself. Mr Tsoroev relies on suppliers for other components like the case, but he finishes all the components in his own workshop. Initial thoughts Like many independent makers in this price segment, Mr Tsoroev outsources several aspects the watch, but he applies his skill to key aspects, including producing and finishing the dial and hands; this contrasts with brands that merely design and assemble watches. Mr Tsoroev’s attention to detail is admirable, considering the price of the watch. Elements like the font he designed for the watch and the rounded arms of the hands reflect the thought put into the design and execution. Granted, there are constraints imposed by the retail price and presumably Mr Tsoroev’s location (where there are probably no suppliers in a radius of hundreds of kilometres), but the Evo Arrow feels like an honest creation by a craftsman. The only thing I would change is the movement. I would swap the LJP calibre for a Russian ...
Worn & Wound
Nodus and The Smoking Tire’s Matt Farah Team Up for a Bold, Driving Inspired LE
Automotive inspired watches come in many different forms. There are watches that draw attention to aesthetic similarities between well understood components of cars and watches (dials that look like gauges on a dashboard, or even putting an automaker’s badge on the dial). And then there are watches that are, ostensibly, meant to be thought of as tools for motorsport – chronographs with tachymeter scales and the like. But there’s another category – the one I tend to prefer – that takes a more abstract approach. These are watches that are imbued with the feeling of driving in their design. Autodromo, of course, are masters at this. Their watches capture a driving aesthetic that doesn’t simply port over elements of vehicle design into a watch, and they use color and texture to evoke specific aspects of driving culture. The latest from Nodus, their second collaboration with automotive personality Matt Farah, is very much in that vein. The new Nodus Canyon in Sunset Orange follows the successful launch of the Mint colorway of the same watch last year (it sold out immediately to Farah’s Patreon subscribers). The watch, designed by Farah, is conceived as an everyday sports watch, with a 41mm stainless steel case that measures 11.5mm tall and 47mm from lug to lug. To look at the watch, you would not immediately clock it as automotive inspired, but it’s filled with subtle and personal details from Farah’s long history in the automotive world that will make it rewa...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Fascinating and Technical Moritz Grossmann Backpage Green
Karl Moritz Grossmann, a prominent figure from the 19th century, was the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking. In our contemporary era, in 2007, Christine Hutter, a skilled watchmaker with experience at Maurice Lacroix, Glashütte Original and A. Lange & Söhne, acquired the right to use the name “Moritz Grossmann“. In 2008, […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Citizen Goes Full 'Zilla' With The New Promaster Dive Limited Editions
“Are we paying the price for our hubris of science? Witness the primeval might that is Godzila.”
Worn & Wound
Bamford and Artist Jeremyville Start the New Year with a Limited Edition GMT Carrying a Positive Message
If anyone thought brands might slow down when it comes to collaborative limited editions in 2024, the releases that are popping up in the first full week of the year would seem to disprove that notion. To that end, Bamford has just announced their first new release of the year, a new spin on their popular GMT format made in partnership with the artist and designer known as Jeremyville. The Bamford London x Jeremyville Limited Edition GMT is whimsical way to start the new year, featuring a well known character from the larger Jeremyville universe. The Bamford GMT has proven to be a great platform for character watches – we saw not one, but two Snoopy GMTs released in the last few years – and this new release finds the Jeremyville “Earth” character taking center stage. If you’re not familiar with Jeremyville’s art, a brief primer is in order. Jeremyville’s art has gained popularity over the course of twenty years, and is both the moniker of the artist himself and the fictional world his characters inhabit. The themes expressed in his art are nearly universally positive, with a real focus on community and empathy, so a collaboration at the beginning of a new year, a time when everyone seems focused on positive change, makes a lot of sense. The dial of the limited edition features the Earth character extending two arms, one of which is an hour hand (and displays a peace sign) and other is the minute hand (with fingers crossed). The GMT hand is represented by ...
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