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Swiss Made

Legally regulated country-of-origin mark. Since 2017 requires at least 60% Swiss production cost, Swiss movement, Swiss development, and Swiss assembly and inspection.

Introducing - The New Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 for the Brand’s 250th Anniversary Monochrome
Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 May 16, 2025

Introducing - The New Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 for the Brand’s 250th Anniversary

As you might know now, after our initial article, Breguet is celebrating its 250th anniversary, and we’ll be seeing a fleet of new models released throughout the year, all made of 18k Breguet gold and paying tribute to some of the most important inventions of its founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet. Initiated by the launch of the […]

Seiko SKX007 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko May 15, 2025

Seiko SKX007 Review

We never really know how – or when – it happens, but some watches manage to achieve an iconic status that gives them a certain immortality long after discontinuation. We know the types, from the Speedmaster to the Submariner to the Royal Oak. But not all icons are pricey and they’re certainly not all Swiss. Enter the Seiko SKX007, a watch without a nickname, whose reference number is as recognizable as any of the aforementioned icons I just listed. The SKX, as we call it shorthand, is the value king in all of horology because of its capability from top to bottom, literally. Today we are going to be examining the SKX007, a watch that Seiko has since moved on from and never truly replaced. We will look at it at face value (as well as current secondary market value), for the watch’s impact on collector culture, and for its staying power even in the face of no longer remaining in production. Seiko SKX007 History And Specs In order to properly contextualize the SKX007, we must go back in time to the 1970s, when Seiko made its first impactful dive watch. Notice how I say "impactful," as the lot of you ready yourselves to remind me not to discount the 62MAS. For the record, I am not – at least not entirely. The 62MAS has proven to be a classic for Seiko, but the diver that really put the brand on the map in terms of culturally relevant tool watches was the Ref. 6105 which was worn by Martin Sheen in the film Apocalypse Now. It has since gone on to take the name of his c...

Naoya Hida & Co. Has Announced their 2025 Releases Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe May 14, 2025

Naoya Hida & Co. Has Announced their 2025 Releases

Seeing a watch made by Naoya Hida & Co. in person for the first time was one of those moments when you truly realize that you have to experience a watch in the metal before casting judgement. At the time, the brand was only in its second full year, and most of the people commenting on the watches in online forums, Instagram, etc. were reacting to what they perceived as an exorbitant price tag. These specific watches, after all, used a (highly) modified Valjoux 7750 as the base movement – not exactly high horology. But when you handle one of these watches, wear it, and, importantly, turn the crown, you realize you’re dealing with an object that’s largely handmade, a fully fleshed out complete thought with a singular perspective. That’s a pretty rare thing, as are the hand carved dials that have become an aesthetic signature of the brand, and truly require magnification to fully grapple with. Naoya Hida & Co. has just unveiled their new slate of watches for 2025, and I imagine we’re heading for some of the same conversations we’ve heard before, but there’s a new watch in this crop of releases that should quiet at least some of the naysayers.  The marquee release in this year’s lineup is the NH Type 6A, Naoya Hida’s most complicated watch to date and their first perpetual calendar. The 6A is made in the same vintage inspired style as all of Naoya Hida’s other watches, evoking classic pieces by Patek Philippe and others (but mostly Patek, let’s be honest...

Report: Geneva Spring Auctions 2025 SJX Watches
Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari May 14, 2025

Report: Geneva Spring Auctions 2025

Despite everything, including tariffs and a strong Swiss franc, the Geneva auction season turned out to be a strong one, with some of the strongest results being in the most surprising segments. The bigger winner this season was Phillips, which sold a bit under 200 lots for CHF43.4 million including fees, while also claiming the most valuable lots for the season, reflecting Phillips’ strong leadership and team. Despite being the market leader by some margin, the Phillips catalogue was arguably the riskiest as it included several high-value pocket watches and clocks – timepieces that not part of mainstream collecting today. Yet the gamble paid off with the most valuable timepiece this season being its Breguet Sympathique no. 1 that sold for CHF5.51 million. Christie’s achieved CHF21.2 million with a similar number of lots that were arguably more conventional in taste and format than at Phillips. One of its most valuable lots was a Cartier Crash “NSO” with a special order dial that sold for CHF736,000 – one of the biggest surprises of the season but proof that being eye-catching enough for social media is a big factor in desirability and value today. Interestingly, the Crash sold for exactly the same as the Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari. The Crash went for about 15 times the original retail, while the RM UP-01 was about half of retail. The Crash NSO “nickele” grey. Image – Christie’s Over at Antiquorum, the tally was CHF10 million – from almost 800 lot...

A Minute Repeater You Can Take for a Swim: Vacheron Constantin Launches the Overseas Grand Complication Openface Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Launches May 13, 2025

A Minute Repeater You Can Take for a Swim: Vacheron Constantin Launches the Overseas Grand Complication Openface

Another day, another cool Vacheron Constantin release. Barely a month on from Watches & Wonders (where I will remind you, Vacheron dropped the most complicated wristwatch ever made), the iconic brand, currently celebrating its 270th anniversary, has released another high complication heater - a skeleton dial, perpetual calendar, minute repeater with tourbillon dressed up as a titanium Overseas. Coming into 2025, it was pretty clear to see that Vacheron was ready to make some noise. For one thing, the brand was (as I mentioned) celebrating its 270th birthday, something the marketing folks at Vacheron have not been shy about, but more than that, the brand has been on a pretty incredible run over the last few years. Even without the cover of an anniversary year, recent new releases from Vacheron Constantin have increasingly been greeted as objects of interest, both in a technical and cultural sense, and there’s a real feeling that someone at Vacheron HQ clearly knows what they’re doing. The new Overseas Grand Complication Openface is an objectively impressive offering. Measuring in at 44.5mm across and 13.1mm thick in grade 5 titanium (a material also seen in last year’s Overseas tourbillon) this latest Overseas does feature slightly reworked case proportions, with a narrower bracelet relative to its smaller siblings and what looks to me to be a slightly longer lug to lug and thinner bezel, relative to its admittedly larger case size. The watch is also water resistant...

Zenith Defy Skyline Review Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith May 13, 2025

Zenith Defy Skyline Review

While the El Primero movement architecture may serve as the face of the Zenith brand, it is the Defy collection that remains its soul. The Defy represents an historically significant ethos for Zenith, a creative foundation that is just as important to the Swiss brand’s past as it is to its future. Originally meant to be a showcase of innovation and ideas, the Defy collection serves dual purposes: to preserve and celebrate innovations of the past in the “Revival” subfamily, and to continue innovating for the future in the series’ other branches. In 2022, the brand took a big step toward the future of the collection with the release of the Zenith Defy Skyline, a watch that simultaneously looked to build on successful elements of the past and also to capitalize on the integrated-bracelet sport watch trend that had taken hold of the industry. The Zenith Defy collection has roots in the 1960s and ‘70s, when many of the brand’s most iconic and exciting references were released (you can read a more in-depth history here). Many of these have been reborn in the form of modern Revival references, allowing a new generation of enthusiasts to discover them again, or for the first time. These designs weren’t afraid to take risks, from the shape of the case, to the bracelet integration, right into the dial colors and textures. The Defy name quickly came to signify a huge amount of character, and that’s on full display within the brand’s current stable.  In finding a mo...

Introducing - The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days Gübelin Special Edition Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 May 12, 2025

Introducing - The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days Gübelin Special Edition

Collaborations are one of the hottest trends in watchmaking today, as brands, high and low, team up with artists, retailers, collectors – you name it – to create special customised editions. The latest collaboration involves Italian powerhouse Bulgari and Gübelin, the Swiss, family-owned jewellery and watch retailer. The model selected is the Octo Finissimo Skeleton […]

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Pink” for the Giro d’Italia Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces May 12, 2025

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Pink” for the Giro d’Italia

It’s deja vu all over again. Just last week, we brought you news of Tudor’s latest release in carbon fiber, a Black Bay Chronograph made to celebrate their partnership with the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls F1 team. Just days after that announcement, Tudor followed up with yet another carbon chrono, this one built on the FXD platform. As with all of Tudor’s carbon watches to date, this new FXD Chrono has a very specific sports tie in as well, demonstrating that Tudor’s connections to the sports world are broad, and they’re likely to continue supporting their partners with new watches along the way.  The new Pelagos FXD Chrono “Pink” is a sequel of sorts to the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” released a year ago. Both releases were timed to coincide with the Giro d’Italia, the famed Italian cycling race for which Tudor is the official timekeeper. Last year’s watch had prominent red accents, a design meant to evoke the colors of the Tudor Pro Cycling Team, this one has gone pink as a tribute to the race itself. The leader at the beginning of each stage dons a pink jersey, the “Maglia Rosa,” so the color has a deep connection to the race and Italian cycling culture.  The pink accents on the tachymeter scale and the 9 and 3 o’clock subdials, contrast nicely with the black dial, and complement the fabric strap with pink striping down the center. As with last years Cycling release, the tachymeter scale here is set up to time cycling speeds as oppo...

BA111OD Introduces The Chapter 4 Skeleton Tourbillon Ice White Fratello
May 11, 2025

BA111OD Introduces The Chapter 4 Skeleton Tourbillon Ice White

BA111OD is a young Swiss brand with a bold mission - to bring high-end watchmaking complications like the tourbillon to enthusiasts at a far more attainable price point. Since its founding in 2019, BA111OD has gained a reputation as a rising force in contemporary Swiss independent watch brands. It blends innovation with a commitment to […] Visit BA111OD Introduces The Chapter 4 Skeleton Tourbillon Ice White to read the full article.

Hands-On: The New Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Blue Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Blue Spring started May 11, 2025

Hands-On: The New Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Blue

Spring started strong for Nivada. The Swiss watch brand released two new models in its Chronosport line, expanding it to five watches. We were lucky enough to try both the automatic and the mecaquartz versions. In this review, I’ll go hands-on with the former, namely, the Chronosport Blue. But before we get into that, let […] Visit Hands-On: The New Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Blue to read the full article.

Breaking News: F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No. 1 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No May 10, 2025

Breaking News: F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No. 1

In a surprising turn of events, the Breguet Sympathique no. 1 has been acquired by its primary creator, Francois-Paul Journe, for the princely sum of CHF5.51 million including fees (equivalent to US$6.61 million). Notably, Sympathique no. 1 sold for almost as much as the Sympathique made for the Duc d’Orléans. Completed in 1991 for the Art of Breguet thematic auction, the clock was completed in 1991 by Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA), a complications workshop founded by Mr Journe, who also recruited Denis Flageollet and clockmaker Dominic Mouret. And now it will soon become one of the key exhibits in the upcoming F.P. Journe Museum, which will be located near its manufacture in downtown Geneva. Determined bidding The impressive result for the clock exceeded most expectations, including mine. I had expected a result in the region of CHF2.5 million. And in a bit of intrigue before the auction, F.P. Journe sent out an announcement to its clients before the auction stating that it would not repair or service Sympathique no. 1; the buyer of the clock would have to go to Breguet. Getting to the hammer price was not difficult, illustrating the strength of the F.P. Journe name today. While there were a handful of bidders under the million-franc mark, it was eventually down to a gentleman in the room and Mr Journe himself. Past the CHF2 million mark it then turned into a contest between a phone bidder represented by Alex Ghotbi and Mr Journe. Bidding proceeded at a stea...

Introducing: The Oris Aquis Date Taste Of Summer Capsule Collection - It’s Hot And Happening In Hölstein Fratello
Oris Aquis Date Taste May 10, 2025

Introducing: The Oris Aquis Date Taste Of Summer Capsule Collection - It’s Hot And Happening In Hölstein

Have you ever thought about summering in Hölstein? After seeing the Oris Aquis Date Taste of Summer Capsule Collection, you might want to consider it. The colors of the Swiss town in the warmest months of the year inspired the dials of these watches. One version shows a gradient sunrise-like red-pink dial, while the other […] Visit Introducing: The Oris Aquis Date Taste Of Summer Capsule Collection - It’s Hot And Happening In Hölstein to read the full article.

Seiko Arnie Review: The Discontinued Icon Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko May 9, 2025

Seiko Arnie Review: The Discontinued Icon

Before getting into the Seiko "Arnie," I must discuss the man who made it an icon on the big screen. Arnold Schwarzenegger is a guy who knows watches. Or he is at least a guy who is very clear and consistent about the types of watches that he likes. In terms of impact on the watch industry, few celebrity enthusiasts have been as huge (pun intended) as Schwarzenegger, the former “Mr. Universe” from Austria who dominated the big screen during the 1980s and ‘90s in high-testosterone blockbusters like Conan the Barbarian, Predator, Commando, Total Recall, End of Days, and the Terminator series. Along with his fellow iconic action star, Sylvester Stallone, Schwarzenegger helped bring Panerai and its hypermasculine, military style to the attention of millions, kicking off a fascination with large, bulky watches that more or less defined the early 2000s. He also played a significant role in taking Audemars Piguet’s boldly styled Royal Oak Offshore out from under the shadow of the original Royal Oak and into a pop-cultural milieu all its own, famously donning a specially tailored model for his 1999 thriller, End of Days. From this, one can make the assumption that Arnold, who also went on to become the governor of California, loves big watches with mechanical movements from historic Swiss maisons. But in at least two of the movies listed above, he turned instead to a Japanese watch with an analog-digital display - still plenty big, but at the time priced in a range tha...

Introducing the Swatch SCUBAQUA Collection, a Series of Colorful Divers, Just in Time for Summer Worn & Wound
Swatch May 9, 2025

Introducing the Swatch SCUBAQUA Collection, a Series of Colorful Divers, Just in Time for Summer

If there’s one drum I’m constantly banging in the watch enthusiast discourse, it’s that the Swatch MoonSwatch is probably among the least interesting watches made by the brand. I know, I know. They are a phenomenon. They have probably introduced untold numbers of new collectors to our hobby. And they are meant to be fun and I should just chill out. This is all incredibly valid. But as a somewhat older, somewhat more grizzled watch collector who fondly remembers a pre-MoonSwatch era, I’m very much of the opinion that Swatch remains on the vanguard of creativity, you just have to walk past that MoonSwatch display briefcase in the boutique.  This week saw the release of what I think is a great example of a watch that is more impressive in just about every way than a run of the mill MoonSwatch. The new SCUBAQUA Collection even uses the same Bioceramic material found in the MoonSwatch, but in a way that, to my eye, is more uniquely Swatch. Based on the classic Swatch Scuba collection, the new SCUBAQUA watches are a thoughtful update using new materials with enhanced specs and a more contemporary feel.  The new SCUBAQUA watches are all about color and transparency, achieving what the brand calls the “jelly effect,” a principle common to many similarly transparent and colorful Swatches over the years. Each watch combines Bioceramic in the solid color sections of the case with castor oil derived biosourced materials for the transparent components. The dials in each v...

Hands On: The Unique Rolex Daytona “Zenith” Platinum Ref. 16516 SJX Watches
Zenith Platinum Ref 16516 May 9, 2025

Hands On: The Unique Rolex Daytona “Zenith” Platinum Ref. 16516

Sotheby’s upcoming Geneva auction that takes place on May 11 is a relatively compact affair. But the 124 lots includes notable highlights, with the top lot of the sale being the especially unique Rolex Daytona “Zenith” ref. 16516 in platinum with a pink mother-of-pearl dial. This watch is one of just four Daytonas combining the El Primero movement and platinum case – the only platinum specimens in the 16500-series Daytona – all of which were made at the behest of former Rolex chief executive Patrick Heiniger in 1999. Famous for being powered by the cal. 4030 derived from the Zenith El Primero, the 16500-series was the first-ever self-winding Daytona. The model was never commercially available in platinum; the four examples in platinum are truly unique. Moreover, each of the four are one-of-a-kind, each fitted with a different dial in exotic materials. Sotheby’s sold the prior three examples, starting with black mother-of-pearl in 2018, lapis lazuli in 2020, and turquoise in 2021. While those three featured applied Arabic numbers, this example has diamond hour markers. Initial thoughts The unique nature of this Daytona is unquestionable. Amongst automatic Daytonas this ranks amongst the rarest and most valuable. Two of its platinum siblings sold for over US$3 million each, making them the priciest modern-day Daytonas. Of the four platinum Daytonas, however, this example is the most paradoxical. It’s the most unusual in having diamond indices, but also the most...

The One-Off White Gold Universal Genève SAS Polerouter Heads To Auction Fratello
Breitling purchased May 8, 2025

The One-Off White Gold Universal Genève SAS Polerouter Heads To Auction

While there are no official announcements on new releases from the reborn Universal Genève, we do have news. To refresh your memory, Breitling purchased the brand in December 2023 from Stelux Holdings. It has been made clear that new models, along with authorized retailers, wouldn’t emerge until 2026. However, three “new” one-off SAS Polerouter references […] Visit The One-Off White Gold Universal Genève SAS Polerouter Heads To Auction to read the full article.

Auctions: Lavish and Exotic Cartier Clocks at Phillips SJX Watches
Cartier Clocks May 6, 2025

Auctions: Lavish and Exotic Cartier Clocks at Phillips

The spring auction season kicks off in less than a week, and while there are many interesting lots worthy of attention, there are a few museum-grade Cartier clocks at Phillips that demand a close look. All made between 1905 and 1940, the most exceptional pieces date to the roaring twenties when Cartier was synonymous with Art Deco extravagance. The lots are spread across two auctions – Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, which takes place on May 10th and 11th, and Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX which takes place from May 23rd to May 25th. There are three important mystery clocks hitting the block, the most significant being portico clock No. 3, along with a handful of artfully engraved jade desk clocks. Rounding out the bunch, an amusing prism clock should keep things interesting for those bidding with smaller budgets. An introduction to Cartier mystery clocks In the early twentieth century, Cartier was on top of the world. England’s King Edward VII had just granted the firm a royal warrant, calling Cartier the “jeweler of kings” and, perhaps more significantly, “The king of jewelers.” But the Parisian firm wasn’t coasting on this praise, and shortly thereafter stunned the world with a clock with hands that appeared to float in space. This ‘mysterious’ effect was achieved by attaching the hands to rotating glass plates that were driven from the edge. The first such clock was the Modèle A, which debuted in 1912. A Cartier Modèle A. Image – Phillips The mystery cl...

Introducing the Squale Corallo NOS 2008, Featuring a New Old Stock Case from the Archives Worn & Wound
Squale May 6, 2025

Introducing the Squale Corallo NOS 2008, Featuring a New Old Stock Case from the Archives

These days, it seems like every watchmaker is getting back to their roots and releasing redesigns or homages to past hits. I won’t speculate on what this means for the world psyche at the moment, but it has certainly produced a few discussion worthy pieces, whether controversial, widely popular, and everywhere in between. Swiss dive watch specialist Squale is capitalizing on the nostalgia boom with the Corallo NOS 2008. While the Corallo isn’t a rehash of a specific model for the brand-originally founded in 1959 as a case maker for other brands and known for their extreme divers and tool watches-it is a callback to designs of that decade, both from Squale and the watch world as a whole, and revives their “Corallo” case style from the decade, as they rediscovered 300 new old stock (or NOS) examples of the case in their archives three years ago. The name means “coral” in Italian, supposedly chosen for the eight rounded humps that form the bezel of the watch, giving it a shape reminiscent of the aquatic life form. I can’t see the resemblance, but I do like the silhouette that the humps give the watch, imbuing it with a symmetry that feels aggressively tactical, and makes sense for extreme diving applications; a gloved hand underwater will have no problem gripping the bezel with the namesake protrusions. The Corallo measures in at 36.8mm in diameter, 10.5mm in thickness, and 44mm lug-to-lug, and the 316L stainless steel case itself is a blend of the original ...

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34 mm SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne May 6, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34 mm

A. Lange & Söhne delivered one of its most impressive complications at Watches & Wonders 2025, but it was the brand’s entry level novelty that was the talk of the town. The 1815 34 mm won many admirers, and for good reason; it’s attractive, comfortable, well-made, and priced right – an increasingly rare combination. Available in either 18k white or pink gold, the new 1815 is a regular production model but features a galvanic blue dial most often associated with the brand’s limited editions. It joins the Saxonia Thin as Lange’s entry-level offering; both are priced comparably but look and feel very different. Initial thoughts Small watches are back, and the 1815 design works perfectly in the 34 mm size due to its bold numerals, which help it maintain a strong presence on the wrist. The case size now goes without saying, but it’s worth mentioning the 6.4 mm thickness, which places it among the brand’s thinnest watches. This sizing is effortlessly comfortable, and the abundance of gold, sterling silver, and German silver give it reassuring heft. Like most Lange dials, the stepped blue dial of the 1815 is made from sterling silver that’s been given a galvanic finish. This particular shade of blue is often used for limited editions like the 25th anniversary Datograph and 30th anniversary Lange 1, which makes it feel extra special. Longtime fans of the brand will recall this dial harks back to the first-generation 1815 that was available with a similar dial (and...

Tudor Adds a Limited Edition Carbon Chrono to the Black Bay Chronograph Lineup Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer whose parent company LVMH May 5, 2025

Tudor Adds a Limited Edition Carbon Chrono to the Black Bay Chronograph Lineup

We haven’t remarked on it all that much to this point, but one of the inescapable trends at Watches & Wonders this year was a prevalence of F1 cars making appearances around the Palexpo. If you scheduled your meetings in a particular way, you could easily be convinced that every Swiss watch brand has some level of involvement with the sport. IWC, of course, is just beginning to promote F1, the highly anticipated new film starring Brad Pitt that is said to feature many, many IWC watches. And then there’s TAG Heuer, whose parent company LVMH secured a lucrative deal with Formula 1 in the off season, and returned TAG to official timekeeper status. Both of these brands had actual cars in their booths, and they drew a crowd all week. Then there’s H. Moser, a sponsor of the Alpine team, and finally (please get in the comments if I’ve missed one) there’s Tudor, a partner of the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls Formula One Team, who took this weekend’s Miami GP as an opportunity to release their latest racing themed watch, the Black Bay Chrono Carbon 25.  The limited edition (2,025 numbered examples) chronograph is modeled on the Black Bay Chronograph, a watch that has seen its share of special editions in the last few years, mostly by way of colored dials. This watch is a little different as it represents an all new case material for the Black Bay Chrono, making use of Tudor’s carbon fiber composite material (the caseback, pushers, and crown are all rendered in titanium ...

Hands-On With The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV In Platinum And Rose Gold Fratello
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV May 2, 2025

Hands-On With The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV In Platinum And Rose Gold

Last week, Jorg explained how the Alpine Eagle has carved out its spot in an overcrowded category. The brand’s persistence and creativity in drastically changing things made the collection a success story. Today, it’s my turn to look at Chopard’s new Quattro Mark IV models from its elegant L.U.C collection. The Quattro is famous for […] Visit Hands-On With The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV In Platinum And Rose Gold to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Brand New Sternglas Naos Big Date Fratello
May 2, 2025

Hands-On With The Brand New Sternglas Naos Big Date

Sternglas has made a name for itself as a brand offering affordable Bauhaus-inspired timepieces. Within that specific style, the brand has explored many options to add variation to its new releases. In those explorations, the Hamburg-based brand has pushed the boundaries without losing the connection to its core philosophy. But we have seen recent releases […] Visit Hands-On With The Brand New Sternglas Naos Big Date to read the full article.

Record Breaking Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Debuts at Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calibre 89 ref 989J May 2, 2025

Record Breaking Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Debuts at Auction

If you want to own the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing, you’ll have to fight for it at The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, which will see the first production example go under the hammer. The 1.65 mm stature of the ThinKing is even more impressive coming from a small Russian independent watchmaker, considering previous records were set by big Swiss brands ranging from Piaget to Richard Mille. Notably, this is not the first time a landmark release has been trusted to an auction that isn’t linked to a charity. The most famous example of this was the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 (ref. 989J) back in 1989 at Antiquorum’s thematic sale. The ThinKing will be sold in the first session of the auction, which starts on May 10, 2025, at 2 pm. The ThinKing in profile. Image – Phillips Mr Chaykin achieved the record-setting height with clever construction, including a “double balance wheel” system that places an intermediate wheel between the balance and escapement, allowing both to sit on the same plane. Another notable technical feature is a barrel that is open on both sides, and no thicker than the mainspring itself. And unlike most serially-produced Konstantin Chaykin watches, each ThinKing is made, finished, and assembled by Mr Chaykin himself. Wearability is enhanced by the bolt-on protective shroud in titanium christened “PalanKing”. This increases the height to 5.4 mm, but adds key-less setting and winding, and automatic winding by a...

Awake is Back with a Pair of “Jurassic Watch” Limited Editions Worn & Wound
May 1, 2025

Awake is Back with a Pair of “Jurassic Watch” Limited Editions

I love Jurassic Park. It is, on any given day, my most likely response if I’m asked to name my favorite movie. To me, it’s a perfectly constructed film, and the absolute pinnacle of a type of event movie that is, unfortunately, no longer made. The way it blends state of the art (for the time) CGI with practical effects is unmatched, and somehow, over thirty years after the movie premiered, all of those effects still hold up. It honestly defies logic, but is a testament to the talent and ingenuity of Steven Spielberg that he was able to create something so timeless. It’s also, of course, just an incredibly exciting thrill ride, and seeing it in the theater as a dinosaur obsessed ten year old is a core memory.  So it was with great interest that I noted the new releases from Awake, a brand we’ve been covering since their inception. The “Jurassic Watch” project is a pair of watches inspired by the film, and according to the brand is the beginning of a new series they’re calling a “Tribute to the 7th Art,” which promises to interpret and pay tribute to cult classics in popular culture through Métiers d’Art. In other words, it’s a way to apply traditional craft to contemporary  ideas that conjure real nostalgia for the Awake team and, I imagine, many of their customers. For someone like me, who can’t see the iconic Jurassic Park typeface (reproduced here on the caseback) without the John Williams score running through my head, there’s a great deal o...

Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif After teasing May 1, 2025

Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif

After teasing collectors with the compact Chronomètre Furtif Bleu in 2023, F.P. Journe has unveiled its successor, the Chronomètre Furtif (CF). The CF offers the same dimensions as its predecessor as well as a similar laser-engraved grand feu enamel dial, but takes the idea of furtif, or “stealthy”, even further with black-on-black livery. While the CF Bleu was a one-off piece in tantalum made for the Only Watch charity auction where it sold for CHF2 million, the new CF is a regular production model crafted almost entirely from scratch-resistant tungsten carbide. Initial thoughts The CF is a watch that hits you over the head with its intense darkness and exceptional weight. It’s not dark in the same way as an H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Vantablack, which effectively absorbs light; rather, the dial is a deep glossy black like the glass of an iPhone screen. This reflectivity makes it difficult to photograph but easy to enjoy. These characteristics are thanks to the flawless black grand feu enamel dial and laser-engraved markings. Because of the way the light plays across the dial, it looks slightly different from almost every angle. It’s a dramatic and interactive dial that contributes significantly to the overall wearing experience. The CF is a true heavyweight, tipping the scales at 250 g. But it feels even heavier on account of its wearable 42 mm footprint and slim 9.55 mm thickness. This size-to-weight ratio gives it an almost overwhelming sense of density. The wa...