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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Three Geneva Watch Days Takeaways From a First Time Attendee Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux H Moser & Cie Sep 12, 2024

Three Geneva Watch Days Takeaways From a First Time Attendee

For watch collectors, enthusiasts, and industry veterans, it’s kind of hard to believe that Baselworld hasn’t existed in a meaningful way since 2019. Covid (and a rapidly changing industry) killed the industry’s biggest trade show in 2020, and as soon the show was on life support, many began prognosticating about the future of large scale industry events. Over the course of the last five or so years, the watch world has settled into a groove, with Watches & Wonders (formerly the far more exclusive SIHH) largely replacing Baselworld as the big spring must-attend watch event, with an ever growing roster of brands exhibiting at the show, and even more taking meetings in unofficial capacities adjacent to it.  Baselworld being effectively replaced by another show was probably somewhat predictable, but a turn of events that fewer saw coming was the rise of Geneva Watch Days as a major end-of-summer tentpole event for the watch community. Originally conceived in 2020 as a way for a small handful of brands (Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie and MB&F;) to bring watch collectors together in a pandemic ravaged year, the event has grown to over 50 official participants and many more exhibiting on the fringes, taking advantage of the influx of collectors and watch industry types on the city of Geneva while the event is up and running.   If you talk to people who have attended Geneva Watch Days since it began, you’ll hear a lot of chatter about t...

Citizen Releases New References in their Premium Attesa Collection Worn & Wound
Citizen Releases New References Sep 12, 2024

Citizen Releases New References in their Premium Attesa Collection

“Attesa” is an Italian word that means “expectation” or “anticipation.” Since 1987, it has been the home of Citizen’s next-generation watches, where its expertise in processing titanium and employing innovative technologies exceeds expectations and anticipates the future. Think of it as their E-Class; anecdotally, Mercedes’ E-Class is the first to receive all the latest bells and whistles, which are later incorporated into the other model lines. Speaking of bells and whistles, Attesa is launching two new world-time chronographs for 2024, both packed with a wide range of features and functions. The first is the CC4059-64L, a 44.6mm Super Titanium timepiece featuring an ultra-hard black Duratect DLC coated case. Its dial features blue-violet vertical striping, while the subdials and rehaut are black. Its bezel matches the color of the dial, and the city names are applied using a special vapor deposition process to create a reflective silver color. The second is the CC4074-61W, which utilizes the same case, bracelet, and black Duratect DLC coating. However, this model features a sunburst charcoal dial with black subdials and rehaut and a black sapphire bezel with city names in pink gold. Pink gold also appears on the bezel edges, hands, applied markers, the edges of the subdials, and the date window. Powering these high-tech pieces is the state-of-the-art Citizen caliber F950. This movement can receive a satellite-correcting signal in just 3 seconds, which is ...

#TBT A Triangular Unicorn Dulux Curvimetre Finally Landed Fratello
Sep 12, 2024

#TBT A Triangular Unicorn Dulux Curvimetre Finally Landed

An opisometer is a small instrument with a tiny gear wheel integrated into its edge that you run along a surface to measure the length of curved lines on topographic maps, charts, schemes, and plans. It’s also called a map measurer, meilograph, or curvimeter, and believe it or not, someone made it into a watch […] Visit #TBT A Triangular Unicorn Dulux Curvimetre Finally Landed to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Summery Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT 300 Fratello
Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT 300 Sep 12, 2024

Hands-On With The Summery Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT 300

As I write the first sentence of this article, summer has left us for this year. Here in the Netherlands, it’s the first of a seemingly long streak of days below 20° Celsius or 68° Fahrenheit. It is just as much a psychological adjustment as an actual meteorological one. As the sunlight changes, leaves start […] Visit Hands-On With The Summery Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT 300 to read the full article.

Accessible Flyback Chronographs: Five Value Propositions Well Under €10K From Longines, Sinn, Frederique Constant, And More Fratello
Frederique Constant Sep 12, 2024

Accessible Flyback Chronographs: Five Value Propositions Well Under €10K From Longines, Sinn, Frederique Constant, And More

The flyback function is arguably the epitome of technicality in sports watches, and it can be an expensive collection goal. Many of you will know the snap-quick function from Patek Philippe and über-horology from the likes of A. Lange & Söhne. However, as manufacturing techniques improve, so does the possibility of (comparatively) affordable flyback chronographs. […] Visit Accessible Flyback Chronographs: Five Value Propositions Well Under €10K From Longines, Sinn, Frederique Constant, And More to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Does Modern Rolex Still Have The Magic? Fratello
Rolex Still Have Sep 12, 2024

Fratello Talks: Does Modern Rolex Still Have The Magic?

Welcome to this latest episode of Fratello Talks. Does modern Rolex still have the magic? That’s the question that Nacho, RJ, and Thomas tackle today. There’s no question that modern Rolex watches are reliable, luxurious timekeepers. But for many enthusiasts and collectors, nothing quite comes close to the magic of the older four- and five-digit […] Visit Fratello Talks: Does Modern Rolex Still Have The Magic? to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Dietrich ED-1 Worn & Wound
Sep 11, 2024

Hands-On: the Dietrich ED-1

One of the great things about the world of watches today is there’s always something out there waiting to surprise. Even as someone who spends a lot of time paying attention to this stuff, there are still brands that slip through the cracks and watches that sneak by when my head is turned. I’ll admit, Dietrich was one of those brands I had missed. Now, having spent some time with two variants of their latest release, the ED-1, I have to say I’m paying attention. Okay, I hadn’t entirely missed them, but I knew Dietrich best from their relatively conventional SD-2 Skin diver. That watch certainly stood out from the familiar onslaught of dive watches, but the structured conventions of dive watches meant the SD-2 didn’t offer the full Dietrich experience. The rounded leaf hands, sandwich dial, and ever-so-slightly hexagonal dial were enough to evoke the Dietrich ‘look,’ but at the end of the day a dive watch is a dive watch, and there’s only so much you can do without ending up with something else. The Dietrich ED-1 marks a return to the core of Dietrich watchmaking, this time with the intention of creating the “ultimate everyday watch.” As an industry, we tend to break watches into categories: dive watches, field watches, pilot’s watches, dress watches, tool watches, dressy tool watches - the list goes on. It’s a bit of a trick, one that makes it easier for both brands and journalists to communicate this intention behind a watch and establish expecta...

Hands-on – The Citizen Promaster Sky Mechanical GMT – A Powerful, Accessible True GMT Watch Monochrome
Citizen Promaster Sky Mechanical GMT Sep 11, 2024

Hands-on – The Citizen Promaster Sky Mechanical GMT – A Powerful, Accessible True GMT Watch

Created by Japanese watchmaker Citizen in 1989 as a brand to meet the needs of professionals working in the most challenging environments of the land, sea, and sky, Promaster has grown to a collection that includes over 30 different watches, all created with specific professional applications in mind. Celebrating its 35th anniversary this year, Citizen […]

The Top 5 Dive Watches for Beginners Under $1,000 Worn & Wound
Sep 11, 2024

The Top 5 Dive Watches for Beginners Under $1,000

Dive watches possess a sort of primordial appeal. Dating back to the 1950s, they were invaluable tools for early divers to monitor their dive time. But what makes a dive watch a dive watch? It varies depending on who you ask, but the International Organization for Standards (ISO) 6425 standard provides a perfect starting point. Per ISO, a dive watch must: a) be water-resistant to at least 100, b) possess a method of tracking dive time, c) must show that time in resolution of no larger than minutes over the span of an hour, plus a litany of other tests to achieve ISO 6425 certification. In today’s Chronicle, we’re doing a deep dive into our picks for the five best dive watches for a new enthusiast. Dive watches possess a sort of primordial appeal. Dating back to the 1950s, they were invaluable tools for early divers to monitor their dive time. But what makes a dive watch a dive watch? It varies depending on who you ask, but the International Organization for Standards (ISO) 6425 standard provides a perfect starting point. Per ISO, a dive watch must: a) be water-resistant to at least 100, b) possess a method of tracking dive time, c) must show that time in resolution of no larger than minutes over the span of an hour, plus a litany of other tests to achieve ISO 6425 certification. In today’s Chronicle, we’re doing a deep dive into our picks for the five best dive watches for a new enthusiast. The post The Top 5 Dive Watches for Beginners Under $1,000 appeared first o...

Introducing – The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Sep 11, 2024

Introducing – The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition

An important range for the brand, Zenith keeps enlarging its Defy collection. The name of the collection dates to Zenith’s 1902 line of robust pocket watches bearing the name ‘Defi’, which popped up again in 1969 to distinguish the toughest member of the first El Primero references known as the A3642. The Defy Skyline sub-collection appeared […]

Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Worn & Wound
Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Many are Sep 10, 2024

Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11

Many are quick to point to the venerable Seiko SKX and Seiko Turtle as being the best entry-level dive watches, even going as far as to label them as “must haves” in every collection. That being said, I have always gone a bit against the grain. Now don’t get me wrong, both of those watches have made their way into my permanent collection over the years with the Seiko SKX007 claiming its place as my first serious tool watch, though neither have managed to capture more wrist time than my Seiko Samurai. There is something about the angular architecture, the aggressive handset, and the considerably chunky feel on my wrist that has plucked a heart string within, leading me to argue in its defense and recommend it to those with large wrists akin to my own. So, when I learned that Seiko would be introducing a new generation of Samurai models this year with refined proportions and updated visuals, I jumped at the opportunity to add yet another one to my collection and ordered the red-dialed Seiko Samurai SRPL11. $575 Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Case Stainless steel Movement 4R35 Dial Red Lume Yes Lens Mineral Strap Bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 41.6 x 49mm Thickness 12.7mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $575 While other models in the Seiko lineup have ultimately remained the same over the years, the Seiko Samurai has seen quite a few changes in its relatively short lifetime. Since its inception in 2004, we have seen the...

Maurice Lacroix Adds New AIKON References in Titanium Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Adds New AIKON References Sep 10, 2024

Maurice Lacroix Adds New AIKON References in Titanium

Close your eyes and come with me on a walk down memory lane. It’s 2006. I’m in my sophomore year of high school and it’s homecoming season. There’s a dance after the first football game of October and I’m out on the floor, in my very best outfit from JCPenney, waiting for the next song to load from the DJ’s (or was it math teacher’s?) iPod Nano. A synth comes over the gymnasium speakers and my 15-year-old self is introduced to the Grammy-nominated album, Konvicted, by Akon. I don’t think I’ve ever been the same since that moment, dear reader. It’s now nearly 18 years later when I am reminded of this as the latest release from Maurice Lacroix on the extension of their AIKON line-up hits my inbox. Sure, it’s spelled slightly differently, but nostalgia makes rooms for homophones, don’t you think?  The Swiss watchmaker has been producing the AIKON line since 2016 and, for the first time, now comes in titanium. The new additions come in two model options (Automatic or Automatic Chronograph) and a total of four colorways, giving the wearer an array of options for their personal preference and daily needs. Let’s start with the basics first – why titanium? The most important reason people choose titanium is for its durability. As Maurice Lacroix has noted, these four titanium references were designed as a response to their customer base’s needs. Having a watch that can withstand the normal wear and tear of daily life is a blessing when you’re payin...

Fratello On Air: Our Favorites From Geneva Watch Days 2024 Fratello
Sep 10, 2024

Fratello On Air: Our Favorites From Geneva Watch Days 2024

It’s time for another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we cap off Geneva Watch Days 2024 with our favorites from the event. We saw some fascinating watches and met new and old acquaintances. For our listeners, there’s not much banter in this episode! We’ve returned to our respective countries, are we are fully […] Visit Fratello On Air: Our Favorites From Geneva Watch Days 2024 to read the full article.

Introducing: Three New Dial Options In The King Seiko Line - SJE103, SJE105, And SJE107 Fratello
Seiko Line - SJE103 SJE105 Sep 10, 2024

Introducing: Three New Dial Options In The King Seiko Line - SJE103, SJE105, And SJE107

Seiko introduces three new dial variants to its higher-end King Seiko models. These are last year’s SJE089/SJE091 under the hood but with fancy new dial textures and colors. This pushes them a bit further away from their austere 1965 KSK ancestor and into modern territories. Today, Seiko releases a lavender (SJE107), blue (SJE105), and red […] Visit Introducing: Three New Dial Options In The King Seiko Line - SJE103, SJE105, And SJE107 to read the full article.

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph in Ceramic and Gold SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 10, 2024

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph in Ceramic and Gold

First launched in 2021, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph now returns in an appealing combination of materials. The new model shares many similarities with its predecessor, namely the same case design and movement. But it’s now rendered in black ceramic and 18k white gold, matched with pink gold hands. Initial thoughts With the design having been refined over time, it is now clear that the negative reaction to the initial Code 11.59 collection was overdone. Granted, some criticism was justified with the original line-up, particularly for the time-only variants with plain dials (now replaced by guilloche). The most appealing versions of the Code 11.59 are the complications, particularly those with open-worked dials, like the Flying Tourbillon Chronograph. The open working of the dial transforms what was a design weakness into strength. Not only does the open dial showcase the mechanics and finishing of the movement, but it also complements the large, contemporary case. The Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph a watch executed excellently with little to criticise – except for the case dimensions, which could be more compact. The Code 11.59 design looks larger than it is, so the case wears larger than it measures. Although the price is only available on request, it is in the region of CHF250,000. It’s a big number but comparable to similar complications from Audemars Piguet’s rivals like Vacheron Constantin. But unlike the competition,...

The Apple Watch Series 10 is (Almost) Here Worn & Wound
Sep 9, 2024

The Apple Watch Series 10 is (Almost) Here

Every year, for the last ten years(!) Apple has held a press event at their Cupertino, CA headquarters to highlight the launch of a new Apple Watch (and new iPhones, Air Pods, and iOS advancements). It’s kind of hard to believe that the Apple Watch, a device that some said years ago could spell the literal death of the watch industry, has been around for a full decade. The supposed takeover of smartwatches was always a little overblown, I think. At the end of the day, they simply aren’t luxury products, and thus don’t really compete with most mechanical watches. It’s been interesting to observe over this ten year period, in fact, how many watch enthusiasts have embraced the Apple Watch. We have, at any given time, multiple double wristers in our own Worn & Wound offices. This shouldn’t really be all that surprising, though. The Apple Watch, from the very beginning, has taken cues from the world of traditional watchmaking, and some of the bells and whistles associated with the latest version of the watch could have been lifted from the press release of any number of high end Swiss luxury brands.  The centerpiece of the Apple Watch news at today’s event is the all new Apple Watch Series 10. The new device is being described by Apple as its lightest and thinnest yet, boasting a 10% thinner case height than the Series 9, and a 20% lighter weight than the stainless steel version of last year’s watch. It’s just 9.7mm thick, and the display is larger than the App...

GoPro Announces a Pair of New Cameras Offering Big Improvements Worn & Wound
Sep 9, 2024

GoPro Announces a Pair of New Cameras Offering Big Improvements

It’s probably not an exaggeration to say that GoPro is one of the most influential and consequential tech companies to spring up in the past two decades or so. Known for their easy to use, affordable, and compact action cameras, they have defined an entire product category, and influenced the way everything from YouTube videos and feature films are shot. Their ubiquity is obvious in the outdoor sports and recreation world, and they’re almost as essential a piece of gear as proper footwear and a pocket knife. Over the years, GoPro has continually refined and improved their core products, expanding use cases and making it even easier for just about anyone to capture high quality video of their lives, whether they be banal and mundane or a constant adrenaline rush. The newest GoPros, the Hero and the Hero13 Black, offer a suite of improvements of their predecessors that should benefit casual and more professional oriented users.  The Hero enters the lineup as a slim downed unit that is the smallest ever GoPro with an integrated screen. It weighs just 86 grams and is being positioned as an easy to use 4k video camera aimed at curious amateur videographers who might use it during hardcore outdoor activities like alpine skiing, mountaineering, or water sports (it’s waterproof to 15 feet), or something more sedate like vlogging a vacation experience. The rear facing LCD screen is meant to help frame up shots, and users then control the action from the same screen by touch....

Finally! Sinn Revives an Iconic Military Chronograph Worn & Wound
Sinn Revives Sep 9, 2024

Finally! Sinn Revives an Iconic Military Chronograph

Sinn fans rejoice; the Frankfurt favorite has finally released a watch we’ve all been waiting for. 156 is a number that most Sinn fans have memorized as it refers to one of the most excellent watches in the Sinn archives, not just because of its looks but also because of its lineage and movement(s). You see, the story of the 156 begins with a watch by a different brand altogether, the Heuer-Leonidas Bundeswehr 1550 SG, commonly called the “Heuer Bund.” image credit: analogshift.com A pilot’s chronograph used in the 60s and 70s mainly by the German airforce, though others as well, the Bund was a remarkable tool watch of its day. Powered by the manual wound Valjoux 22 and Valjoux 230 calibers, they featured flyback mechanisms and a clean, bold design with large lumed numerals and a particularly appealing bezel layout. Measuring 43mm in diameter and 13mm thick, they were huge for the era, though in keeping with pilot watch tradition. Helmut Sinn, the founder of Sinn, purchased old inventory of these watches in the 1980s, reconditioned them, added Sinn branding, and rebadged them as the Sinn 155 Bw. In the late 1980s, Helmut set out to create a new generation of military-issued pilot’s chronographs with the 156 by combining the case and general dial design of the 155/Bund with relatively new-to-the-market automatic chronograph movements by Lemania. Thus, the 156 is the direct successor to the Bund via the 155. My Sinn 156 – gone, but not forgotten The 156s most com...

IFL Watches Introduces The Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Time Is Money Concept Limited Edition Fratello
Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Time Sep 9, 2024

IFL Watches Introduces The Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Time Is Money Concept Limited Edition

We have all heard the phrase “time is money,” but what if you could make it come to life visually? Leave it to the team at IFL Watches to put a fun spin on that. For its newest release, the Stockholm-based brand whimsically embodied the concept using the dial of a Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic. It’s […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Time Is Money Concept Limited Edition to read the full article.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection - Watches For Enthusiasts With Refined Taste Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection - Watches Sep 8, 2024

The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection - Watches For Enthusiasts With Refined Taste

One of my most memorable meetings during Watches and Wonders earlier this year was with Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni. This very charismatic watch CEO was impeccably dressed, talking about the history of fashion and how the new Toric collection was designed with today’s sartorialists in mind. Terreni is glad that menswear is getting attention […] Visit The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection - Watches For Enthusiasts With Refined Taste to read the full article.