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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Gold Is King - Why Gold Watches Are More Expensive Than The Material Warrants Fratello
May 3, 2025

Gold Is King - Why Gold Watches Are More Expensive Than The Material Warrants

The gold price stands at an all-time high. Still, gold watches command prices far exceeding the value of the material added to the base price of the equivalent watch in steel. Why is that? What makes gold watches so costly? The popular answer is because of greed. But that is cutting some corners. Let’s try […] Visit Gold Is King - Why Gold Watches Are More Expensive Than The Material Warrants to read the full article.

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Worn & Wound
Alpina s Alpiner Extreme Regulator May 2, 2025

Tool/Kit: Trekking Through Patagonia with Alpina’s Alpiner Extreme Regulator and Skeleton Automatics

Last year, we introduced you to friend and adventure photographer Nick Stirbis. At the time, he was headed to Iceland and we outfitted him with Alpina’s Seastrong Extreme. A spectacular edition of Tool/Kit was the result. This year, when he notified us of an upcoming expedition to the Patagonia mountains of Chile and Argentina, it was thrilling to hear that once again, Alpina was eager to step up to the challenge. Alpina offered two models from their Alpiner Extreme collection so that both Nick and his climbing partner, Mylz Perry, could experience both the Regulator and Skeleton Automatics among the Patagonian peaks. The post Tool/Kit: Trekking Through Patagonia with Alpina’s Alpiner Extreme Regulator and Skeleton Automatics appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Seiko Baby Alpinist Review Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko May 2, 2025

Seiko Baby Alpinist Review

Before I get into my owner's review of the Seiko Baby Alpinist, I want to talk about field watches as a category. What makes a field watch? Is an explorers' watch the same as a field watch? Is a mountaineering watch? I wouldn’t necessarily call this, or rather these, age-old questions. Instead they illustrate an intellectual conundrum I’ve personally faced, being a fan of a certain format of watches. Many who know me will also be sure to know I have a certain proclivity toward Rolex watches. I once wrote some of a definite treatise on the Rolex Explorer Ref. 14270 - the now neo-vintage version of the watch that was born right at the start of the 1990s and which has since served as the template for all Explorers to come. Its 36mm size, legible dial, and overall no-nonsense field-watch format have made it one of the best watch designs of all time. But it’s also not really a field watch, is it? It was born as a marketing exercise in the wake of Sir Edmund Hilary’s summiting of Everest alongside Tenzig Norgay. It’s an explorers watch, one with alpine roots. The Seiko Baby Alpinist SPB155 Speaking of alpine, we cannot mention the word without invoking one of the most well-known attainable icons of the 1990s and 2000s: The Seiko Alpinist. But let’s go back even further, to the late 1950s and early ‘60s, when Seiko launched the small, 35mm Laurel Alpinist – a design that was revived by the brand in 2021. Fast-forward to 1995, when Seiko released a familiar forma...

Introducing – The New Kudoke 5, with a 24h Rotating Celestial Disc Monochrome
May 2, 2025

Introducing – The New Kudoke 5, with a 24h Rotating Celestial Disc

Independent watchmaking continues to thrive with imaginative creations, and Stefan Kudoke remains a standout name to watch. His HANDwerk collection, launched in 2019, established his reputation for blending mechanical finesse with artistic expression. The Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 exemplified this fusion beautifully. With the Kudoke 3, he pushed the design further, retaining his signature […]

Introducing – Konstantin Chaykin Presents the Final Version of the 1.65mm ThinKing, the World’s Thinnest Mechanical Watch Monochrome
Konstantin Chaykin May 2, 2025

Introducing – Konstantin Chaykin Presents the Final Version of the 1.65mm ThinKing, the World’s Thinnest Mechanical Watch

The king of ultra-thin watches is back… Mostly known for his popular Wristmons series, we tend to forget that Konstantin Chaykin is also a highly talented independent watchmaker, a member of the AHCI and a man capable of creating extremely complex watches and clocks. He has, for example, applied for close to 100 patents. Last […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage And Neo Vintage Rolex Submariner Models Fratello
Rolex Submariner Models Another Friday May 2, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage And Neo Vintage Rolex Submariner Models

Another Friday, another list! This week, we compiled a list of our favorite vintage Rolex Submariner models. While classic Rolexes are always a topic of discussion, recently Submariners and GMT-Masters have been discussed quite a bit in the Fratello offices. It is no coincidence because Robert-Jan recently added a vintage GMT-Master to his collection, and […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage And Neo Vintage Rolex Submariner Models to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Brand New Sternglas Naos Big Date Fratello
May 2, 2025

Hands-On With The Brand New Sternglas Naos Big Date

Sternglas has made a name for itself as a brand offering affordable Bauhaus-inspired timepieces. Within that specific style, the brand has explored many options to add variation to its new releases. In those explorations, the Hamburg-based brand has pushed the boundaries without losing the connection to its core philosophy. But we have seen recent releases […] Visit Hands-On With The Brand New Sternglas Naos Big Date to read the full article.

Introducing: The Hanhart 417 ES Heritage Flyback 39 And 42 Fratello
May 2, 2025

Introducing: The Hanhart 417 ES Heritage Flyback 39 And 42

Hanhart is a German brand with a deep history of making pilots’ chronographs. These pieces are known for their distinctive ridged rotating outer bezels and single red chronograph pusher. However, not all Hanhart models feature the latter detail, which brings us to today’s piece. Fans requested the distinctive pusher, and Hanhart has answered with the […] Visit Introducing: The Hanhart 417 ES Heritage Flyback 39 And 42 to read the full article.

Record Breaking Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Debuts at Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calibre 89 ref 989J May 2, 2025

Record Breaking Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Debuts at Auction

If you want to own the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing, you’ll have to fight for it at The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, which will see the first production example go under the hammer. The 1.65 mm stature of the ThinKing is even more impressive coming from a small Russian independent watchmaker, considering previous records were set by big Swiss brands ranging from Piaget to Richard Mille. Notably, this is not the first time a landmark release has been trusted to an auction that isn’t linked to a charity. The most famous example of this was the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 (ref. 989J) back in 1989 at Antiquorum’s thematic sale. The ThinKing will be sold in the first session of the auction, which starts on May 10, 2025, at 2 pm. The ThinKing in profile. Image – Phillips Mr Chaykin achieved the record-setting height with clever construction, including a “double balance wheel” system that places an intermediate wheel between the balance and escapement, allowing both to sit on the same plane. Another notable technical feature is a barrel that is open on both sides, and no thicker than the mainspring itself. And unlike most serially-produced Konstantin Chaykin watches, each ThinKing is made, finished, and assembled by Mr Chaykin himself. Wearability is enhanced by the bolt-on protective shroud in titanium christened “PalanKing”. This increases the height to 5.4 mm, but adds key-less setting and winding, and automatic winding by a...

In-Depth: Hidden Innovation in the Urwerk UR-150 “Scorpion” SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-150 “Scorpion” Urwerk May 2, 2025

In-Depth: Hidden Innovation in the Urwerk UR-150 “Scorpion”

Urwerk is universally known for its unique approach to time-telling, usually marrying the classic concept of wandering hours with avant-garde styling and reinvented mechanics. The brand’s signature brand of watchmaking is exemplified by the UR-150 “Scorpion”, which demonstrates the brand’s ability to reinvent the wheel in displaying the time. The UR-150 is a time-only watch, showing just the hours and minutes, but with a technical execution that is sophisticated and elaborate. Nicknamed “Scorpion” due to its crisp retrograde hour hand that brings to mind the desert creature’s swift sting, the UR-150 features a central carousel that creeps slowly over the course of one hour, only for the hour hand to snap back and reset with a lively action at the top of each hour. The concept of satellite and retrograde hours is not new to Urwerk – in fact the idea dates back to the Opus V – but in the UR-150 the mechanics underlying the time display have been refined, upgraded, and elaborated upon. Dissecting the time display module of the UR-150 is a fascinating process that speaks to the talent of the watchmakers and constructors at Urwerk who conceived these radical time displays. The mechanics are inventive, especially in the interconnected nature of the various sub-assemblies ranging from the retrograde to the satellite discs. The construction also incorporates finer engineering details like main shaft that supports two concentric but independent axes of the carrier...

Rolex Oysterquartz: The Complete Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex May 1, 2025

Rolex Oysterquartz: The Complete Guide

When Rolex introduced its Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller watch at Watches & Wonders 2025, some longtime fans of the brand experienced a bit of déja vu for a Rolex watch - and a Rolex era - that have been largely consigned to the mists of history. Why? Because the Land-Dweller's angular case and integrated-bracelet design reminded many enthusiasts of the Oysterquartz models introduced during the early heyday of quartz watches in the 1970s. That's correct: once upon a time, Rolex, one of the undisputed champions of luxury watches with mechanical movements, jumped on board the Quartz Revolution bandwagon and not only produced its own in-house quartz calibers but marketed the watches that housed them as the pinnacle of the Crown's timepiece portfolio at the time. Here is everything you need to know about the Rolex Oysterquartz and its quirky but significant place in horological history.  Rolex Oysterquartz: The Early Days Of Electric Watches The wristwatch industry, like any other industry, is uber-competitive and every watchmaker wants to be the first to market with The Next Big Thing. In the 1950s and into the ‘60s, that Next Big Thing was a watch that could be powered by electricity. American companies like Hamilton, with the Ventura, and Bulova, with the Accutron, were among the pioneers, even though the movements that resulted from these early efforts proved to have difficulty maintaining reliability in mass production. The Japanese, particularly Seiko, took a diff...

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Fears Brunswick Aurora Worn & Wound
Fears May 1, 2025

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Fears Brunswick Aurora

I’ve never really thought of myself as someone who jumps on trends. When it comes to music, movies, and other things I enjoy, I don’t pay much attention to whatever is in the zeitgeist at the moment. Or, more accurately, I don’t let whatever that is define my taste. I tend to be somewhat skeptical of whatever is becoming hyper popular at the moment. In watches, it’s fairly easy to spot a trend when it’s happening, but a bit more difficult to figure out what’s going to take hold before it actually happens. Jumping onto a trend in watches always seemed particularly silly to me. Watches have an heir of permanence embedded into them, so a “trend” in this hobby is anachronistic to what watch ownership is all about, and what a “good watch,” or one that ultimately stands the test of time, really is. Being trendy in watches carries a larger risk that you’ll wind up with regrets. Example: I don’t feel bad at all that I got really into Canadian post-rock when it had a moment during my college years. Twenty years later, it’s passed, but I still get excited when a new Godspeed You Black Emperor record is announced. Will watch enthusiasts who have collected every MoonSwatch variant still lose their minds over plastic watches a decade from now? Maybe, but it seems unlikely.  I’m not naive to the fact that we’re experiencing a trend with respect to mother of pearl and stone dials. It’s quite possible that at this very moment we might actually be on the ta...

Introducing the Kudoke 5, with a 24-Hour Display and a Slimmer Case Worn & Wound
May 1, 2025

Introducing the Kudoke 5, with a 24-Hour Display and a Slimmer Case

In 2019, the last year of Baselworld, I remember roaming the hall of AHCI and visiting Stefan and Ev Kudoke to see their new Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 models. The Kudoke 2 was an instant winner for me with the small hand engraved 24-hour day/night disc. Later that year, the Kudoke 2 won the “Petite Aiguille” GPHG award for the best watch under CHF 10,000. This put Kudoke as a brand on every collector’s radar.  My first impression of the Kudoke 5 is that it is a natural progression or a logical conclusion to the K2 model with the 24-hour day/night disc as the dial. While the small disc in the K2 works as a nice indicator, the full blown 24-hour dial with a large day/night sky is more poetic and truly feels like it naturally belongs as a dial.  The other noticeable thing about the K5 is that it is a brand-new case that is much slimmer than the previous models. It is officially listed at 7mm without the domed crystal (it’s 38mm in diameter and 47mm from lug to lug). Even though the domed crystal on the watch presented in Geneva last month was a prototype, it did not appear to add any height to the watch. This is the slimmest Kudoke watch I have seen.  According to Stefan, engraving the day/night disc is a complex process involving relief engraving. The stars, moon, and triangle remain in place during engraving and the rest of the elements must be lowered. The whole engraving process takes several days. The biggest challenge he faces is not denting the disc during this ...

Hands-On: Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver BN1024-01E Fratello
Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver May 1, 2025

Hands-On: Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver BN1024-01E

Citizen has updated one of its most popular Promaster Eco-Drive diver models. The BN0150-10E becomes BN1024-01E and has been updated in almost all areas-it’s bigger, goes deeper, is stronger, lasts longer, and is now suitable for professional use. Let’s dive into the details! For over 35 years, Promaster has stood for functionality and professional use. […] Visit Hands-On: Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver BN1024-01E to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Rolex Watches Of All Time Fratello
Rolex Watches May 1, 2025

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Rolex Watches Of All Time

Regardless of your opinion on the brand, there’s bound to be a Rolex out there for just about anyone. The brand’s back catalog is vast and full of brilliant references. On today’s episode of Fratello Talks, we’re each picking three of our all-time favorites. Nacho, Thomas, and Lex have done some research, but little to no […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Rolex Watches Of All Time to read the full article.

The Best Overall Lineup? Parmigiani Fleurier At Watches And Wonders 2025 Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Apr 30, 2025

The Best Overall Lineup? Parmigiani Fleurier At Watches And Wonders 2025

Writing and talking about watches is a lot of fun, but there are times when it’s a chore. Penning today’s article exemplifies the kind of “work” I enjoy. You see, Parmigiani is one of my favorite brands, hands down, and I’m always up for covering a new release. Today, I’ll go several steps better than […] Visit The Best Overall Lineup? Parmigiani Fleurier At Watches And Wonders 2025 to read the full article.

Bad Actors: Watch Errors on the Screen Worn & Wound
Citizen Apr 30, 2025

Bad Actors: Watch Errors on the Screen

It’s undoubtedly enjoyable, as a watch enthusiast, to see a cool watch on screen. Whether TV or film, there’s a fun series of events that takes place. First, you see a glimpse of the watch, and start to make possible connections in your mind. Then, you get a better angle, and your identification begins to gel. And finally, boom, you get the money shot and confirm your suspicion. If you’re watching with someone, you have to share, and they politely act like they care. It’s all a fun ritual for us, watch nerds. And it’s even better when you see something unique get featured, as was the case with the infamous Citizen in Once Upon a Time in…Hollywood (shameless self-plug, as we were the first to write about that). An interesting watch suggests that the person who chose it knew what they were doing, and somehow, it acknowledges our obsession, too. Of course, there are also paid product placements, which often work out (I’m thinking the Murph, or any Bond Seamaster), but are not of as much interest to me. But this article isn’t actually about the joy of this experience. Quite the opposite. While seeing a watch get mentioned or worn on screen brings elation, egregious errors can then crush the experience. Ok, I’m being dramatic (this is about TV and film, after all), but some unfortunate error, or even worse, a fake watch, can nevertheless diminish the experience. The Once Upon a Time…in Hollywood example is not only famous because Brad Pitt wore a cool watch ...

Introducing: The New Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT 60th Anniversary Edition SPB519 Fratello
Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s Apr 30, 2025

Introducing: The New Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT 60th Anniversary Edition SPB519

Seiko is marking 60 years of diver’s watches with a new take on its successful GMT line, the Seiko SPB519. Today, Seiko has released a new Heritage Diver’s GMT watch in the Prospex collection. The brand has been on a powerful streak of late with their Prospex line, including improving the calibers on offer. The […] Visit Introducing: The New Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT 60th Anniversary Edition SPB519 to read the full article.

The 15 Best Chinese Watch Brands: A Complete Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 30, 2025

The 15 Best Chinese Watch Brands: A Complete Guide

At this point it’s a cliché to even mention how outdated and prehistoric a universally negative or condescending view of “Made in China” is in the world of watchmaking. Some of the most interesting new watch brands, and a consistently growing roster of some of the most talented and resourceful living watchmakers, are establishing reputations matching, or indeed exceeding, those out of Switzerland, Germany, and Japan. In this article I have assembled just 15 of these names, some of which have been around for decades and some of which are just coming on the scene. For your reading ease, I’ve broken these down into three categories: the established brands; the watchmakers; and the upstarts. Let’s start with the Chinese watch brand most of you already know… The Established Brands Seagull Tianjin Seagull Watch Group, aka Seagull, recently celebrated its 70th anniversary, and it’s not hard to see why this giant is the most well known and prolific Chinese mechanical-watch producer. The brand made China’s first Air Force Chronograph, which has been reissued as the iconic Seagull 1963 chronograph, a watch that still represents tremendous value at around $300. But it’s not just all affordable stuff these days. Last year, I wrote about the Seagull Split-Second Chronograph, calling it one of the best values in watchmaking at $3,200. Beyond the basic chronograph and this rattrapante, Seagull has added tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters to its repe...

Introducing – Seiko Upgrades its Prospex Diver GMT with more WR and a Micro-Adjust Clasp Monochrome
Seiko Upgrades Apr 30, 2025

Introducing – Seiko Upgrades its Prospex Diver GMT with more WR and a Micro-Adjust Clasp

Surprisingly, Seiko’s first mechanical dive watch with a GMT function was introduced to the collection only two years ago, with the references SPB381, SPB383, and the Save the Ocean limited edition reference SPB385. Inspired by the 1968 Hi-Beat 300m diver, these office GMT watches came with a 200m water-resistance. Only a couple of months ago, […]

Value In Vintage: A Longines Admiral Watch From The 1970s Fratello
Longines Admiral Watch From Apr 30, 2025

Value In Vintage: A Longines Admiral Watch From The 1970s

Longines has produced a massive variety of designs over its illustrious history. Today, we’re looking at a vintage watch from the brand that reflects the bold designs of the 1970s. One of the standout features of this year’s Watches and Wonders was the fact that many companies sought to offer bold, stand-out designs. Yes, there […] Visit Value In Vintage: A Longines Admiral Watch From The 1970s to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 27000M Complicated Desk Clock SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 27000M Complicated Desk Apr 30, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 27000M Complicated Desk Clock

Patek Philippe’s Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27000M-001 is the biggest release of Watches & Wonders 2025, with a footprint of 164.6 by 125 mm, and rising to 76.73 mm at its apex. Priced at an even CHF1 million before taxes, the clock is powered by a key-wound, 31-day movement – incorporating a one-second remontoir d’egalite – housed in a wedge-shaped sterling silver cabinet, decorated with green flinqué enamel. Initial thoughts While we’ve seen desk and table clocks from others in the space, none have been as incredibly high-effort as this. Patek Philippe claims the 912-part shaped caliber took seven years of development, including nine patent applications. That’s quite the investment in a product with limited mainstream appeal, and I find it reassuring that Patek Philippe is still willing to make those investments. The enamel work is enchanting and has precedent in early 20th-century silver travel clocks retailed by Cartier, among others. I could take or leave the baroque styling, but the dial and hidden “dashboard” look fantastic. I hope Patek Philippe will offer this movement in other styles down the road. If you’ve never experienced a key-winding watch or clock, it’s quite satisfying; I wouldn’t call it fun, but it’s not something you’re likely to get sick of. It’s an experience you can’t get with Patek Philippe’s other current production clocks, which use an electric motor to wind the movement without need of human intervention. The b...