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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Vs. IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Vs IWC Feb 23, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Vs. IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40

It’s Sunday again, so it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. Mike and Jorg go head to head in a battle over integrated-bracelet sports watches this week. Two weeks ago, we had a similar match-up when Vacheron’s 222 went up against the Royal Oak. This week, two more famous watches in the same category fight […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Vs. IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 to read the full article.

New: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition Deployant
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Feb 22, 2025

New: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition

Girard-Perregaux and Aston Martin have come together to create a new chronograph that celebrates both brands. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition sports an exclusive feature: an iridescent dial created with automotive paint, inspired by the colours of British sports cars, which adorn Aston Martin’s iconic vehicles.

Introducing: The Sinn U15, U16, And U18 Dive Watches Made Of German Submarine Steel Fratello
Sinn U15 U16 Feb 22, 2025

Introducing: The Sinn U15, U16, And U18 Dive Watches Made Of German Submarine Steel

When it comes to Sinn, you know that any limited edition does not come without a special functionally inspired story behind it. It’s not in the brand’s nature to release a new LE “just because.” To celebrate its 20th anniversary of creating diving watches made of submarine steel, Sinn has come up with the new […] Visit Introducing: The Sinn U15, U16, And U18 Dive Watches Made Of German Submarine Steel to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton Worn & Wound
Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton Feb 21, 2025

Hands-On: the Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton

I have a feeling that if you asked most watch enthusiasts to tell you their thoughts about Rado, they’d start with the Captain Cook. The brand’s diver has been revived in recent years and become an enthusiast favorite, appearing in both traditional vintage inspired designs as well as more forward thinking and tech oriented variants. I’ve handled my share of Captain Cooks and while I think it’s a perfectly fine dive watch, there’s something a little generic about it and it’s never quite grabbed my interest. It seems positioned as a calling card product for Rado, but I find myself wondering if it’s really the watch that we should most closely identify with the brand.  Because the truth is, when it comes to Rado, they are far more adventurous than the Captain Cook would lead you to believe. And, for that matter, they’re more adventurous than we should have any right to expect given their fairly competitive price points and their place within a big luxury watch group, not typically the home of risk taking when it comes to watchmaking. Beginning with the DiaStar in the 1960s (which featured a case made from an ultra hard alloy that was among the first watches marketed as “unscratchable”) and on into the 1980s when the brand really began hitting their stride with ceramic, Rado has carved out a niche for itself as a brand willing to experiment with both raw materials and the form and function of a watch.  There are many examples of this throughout the brand...

Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Zenith Models Fratello
Zenith Models Another Friday another Feb 21, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Zenith Models

Another Friday, another list! This week and next, I will be putting the spotlight on Zenith. To be a bit more specific, for this week, I picked my top five modern Zenith watches. Next week, I will put the spotlight on some of the brand’s best vintage models. These are somewhat self-indulgent lists because I […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Zenith Models to read the full article.

Who Invented the Hairspring? SJX Watches
Feb 21, 2025

Who Invented the Hairspring?

Twenty twenty-five marks the 350th anniversary of the hairspring – it’s hard to believe the spiral ticking away in tens of millions of mechanical watches is already over three centuries old. The hairspring’s history is marked by revelations, disputes, and technical advancements, driven forward by creative horological minds, making the story of the hairspring a fascinating one. But behind all of that lies the question: who invented the hairspring? There are two familiar contenders for the title and it’ll take a deep dive into history to figure out who deserves credit. The motivation Prior to the invention of the hairspring, most timekeepers were clocks. Watches existed, but were essentially miniature clocks that still relied on some sort of gravity pendulum, making such early watches wildly inaccurate. So the hairspring was born of necessity, the need to transform clunky, stationary clocks into relatively precise portable timekeepers. By the mid 17th century, Dutch mathematician and physicist Christiaan Huygens (1629-1695) had already demonstrated a swinging pendulum could indeed serve as a reliable base unit of time measurement for a mechanical timekeeper. He designed his own cycloidal pendulum clocks equipped with oscillating bobs that were only dependent on gravitational acceleration and the cord’s length, making them true isochronous timekeepers. The first such clock was built in 1657 with the help of clockmaker Salomon Coster. “Isochronous” refers to an o...

Hands-On: The New Praesidus Iwo Jima 80th Anniversary A-11 Watches With Black Sand Dials Fratello
Feb 20, 2025

Hands-On: The New Praesidus Iwo Jima 80th Anniversary A-11 Watches With Black Sand Dials

Praesidus has quickly become the go-to brand for military-inspired watches. The company specializes in creating timepieces that recall historical military stories from different eras. On top of that, Praesidus offers incredible value for money. As a result, its watches have become popular storytellers and are hugely appreciated among fans. Last year’s D-Day 80th Commemoration series […] Visit Hands-On: The New Praesidus Iwo Jima 80th Anniversary A-11 Watches With Black Sand Dials to read the full article.

[VIDEO] Our Favorite Watch Accessories Worn & Wound
Feb 20, 2025

[VIDEO] Our Favorite Watch Accessories

When you collect watches, you also somewhat inadvertently collect a bunch of other things. You might realize it until you get pretty deep into the hobby, but it’s almost impossible to avoid acquiring a whole host of accessories for storing, cleaning, admiring, and tinkering with your watches. Over the years, we’ve tried tools, cases, and accessories in a bunch of other categories, and have naturally developed some preferences.  Here, Kat Shoulders and Zach Kazan walk you through some of their personal favorites from their own stash. Let us know in the comments what watch related accessories you can’t live without.  Zach Kazan  Valet tray  A valet tray is in some ways impossibly simple. Usually made from leather, they are small trays, often with buttons at the corners, made catching stray items that you might dump from your pockets upon returning home. Keys, wallets, loose change – you get the idea. Though not a watch accessory per se, they make a ton of sense if you have more than a few watches in your life and just need a place to put them from time to time. I have a few valet trays on my desk at home. One is large enough to handle all the things these trays were really meant for, and is where you’ll often find my AirPods, a memory card or two, maybe some cash (nothing larger than a five spot, sorry) and a pen. The other is smaller, and perfectly sized for two watches. If I’m going to typing for an extended period of time and don’t want the feel of a wat...

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Grand Seiko Watches Of All Time Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Feb 20, 2025

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Grand Seiko Watches Of All Time

Choosing a favorite Grand Seiko was bound to be one of the more difficult prompts we could give to the Teddy editorial team. One of the most beloved watch brands out there, Grand Seiko has been around since 1960 but only began distributing internationally in 2010 and didn’t become a truly independent brand until 2017. Old-timers will recall the days when it was truly difficult to get your hands on what is now the Japanese luxury watch giant. Ironically the SBGA211, aka the "Snowflake," didn’t make the list here, which actually says a lot about the sheer volume of excellent pieces Grand Seiko has released over the years. So let us get to our editors’ picks for their favorite Grand Seiko of all time and, as usual, make sure to share your own pick. Oh, and for the first time since we started doing these editors' picks, two team members individually landed on the same watch... Mark Bernardo: Godzilla 65th Anniversary Limited Edition Unlike many other choices for these Editor’s Picks lists, my favorite Grand Seiko timepiece was relatively easy to identify - because it is the watch with the most intriguing backstory as well as the type of pop-cultural, collaborative piece that the luxury brand is unlikely to ever make again. The Grand Seiko Godzilla 65th Anniversary Limited Edition, released in 2019, commemorated a pair of seemingly unrelated anniversaries that occurred that year: 65 years since the release of the original, iconic Godzilla movie by Toho Ltd. in 1954, a...

Hot Take: The All-New Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium Fratello
Angelus Feb 20, 2025

Hot Take: The All-New Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium

Angelus has been making waves in recent years, injecting fresh energy into its lineup with bold, technical designs that blend avant-garde aesthetics with high-end watchmaking. The latest addition, the Flying Tourbillon Titanium, keeps that momentum going, playing with space, structure, and transparency in a way that feels both futuristic and deeply rooted in classical watchmaking. […] Visit Hot Take: The All-New Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium to read the full article.

A Stunner: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Traveller Globe Night Blue Fratello
Laurent Ferrier Feb 20, 2025

A Stunner: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Traveller Globe Night Blue

If I were pressed to choose the brand with the most breathtakingly beautiful lineup, Laurent Ferrier would surely receive my vote. The Haute Horlogerie watchmaker eschews the hyper-modern trend and makes elegant timepieces with equally bewitching movements. While I tend toward the classic non-complicated models, today’s latest Classic Traveller Globe Night Blue infuses complications without […] Visit A Stunner: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Traveller Globe Night Blue to read the full article.

Introducing – The new Nomos Club Campus Starlight and Night Sky Monochrome
Nomos Club Campus Starlight Feb 20, 2025

Introducing – The new Nomos Club Campus Starlight and Night Sky

The Glashütte-based brand introduced the Campus line to its Club collection in 2017 with a clear goal: to appeal to a younger generation, particularly graduates. Over the past few years, the Club Campus series has grown, adding fresh, playful colours while maintaining the same good technical foundation. The Campus watches featured Future Orange and Absolute […]

Hublot Debuts Multi-Colour Ceramic in Watches SJX Watches
Hublot Debuts Multi-Colour Ceramic Feb 20, 2025

Hublot Debuts Multi-Colour Ceramic in Watches

Hublot has taken the covers off the Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic, which the brand says is the world’s first timepiece to incorporate multi-coloured ceramic. While the case is fashioned from black ceramic, the standout feature is a bezel crafted in grey and blue ceramic, or more specifically, a dark grey ceramic base spotted with blue circles. Though the technical details of the two-colour ceramic are scarce at the moment – the patent is still pending according to Hublot – it appears the unique characteristic of the material lies in the fact that it is ceramic that has been coloured with two distinct pigments, as opposed to a single colour ceramic with an additional colour added. Initial thoughts For all of the criticism levelled at Hublot, the brand undeniably does well in materials innovation. Amongst its proprietary materials is Magic Gold, a gold-ceramic composite that was the first scratch-proof 18k yellow gold alloy. The Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic underscores this focus on materials. Granted, the watch isn’t for everyone. I find the weird, spotty bezel unappealing, but the potential of the material and technology behind it is certainly interesting, especially if applied in a more stylish manner. The material is likely still experimental, since the new Big Bang is a limited edition of just 20 pieces with a hefty price tag of US$33,000, so it might take some time to see it deployed on a wider basis beyond the bezel. Magic Ceramic Apart from the bezel, the new ...

Frederique Constant Partners with Watch Angels on a Revamped Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Partners Feb 19, 2025

Frederique Constant Partners with Watch Angels on a Revamped Worldtimer

Over the last several years we’ve seen all kinds of models pop up for the creation and distribution of limited edition watches. It’s becoming more and more clear that this most recent period in watch enthusiast history will almost certainly be known as the “Limited Edition Boom,” or something along those lines. Look at the pages of any watch media website, including this one, and you’ll find that news items about various LEs and collaborations dominate the conversation, so it’s no wonder that a cottage industry has sprung up to develop these kinds of watches specifically. Watch Angels is one such platform seeking to provide an ecosystem for brands (mostly independent) to create limited edition versions of watches that are funded by the eventual purchasers. It’s like the old souscription model crossed with Kickstater, with the main difference between Watch Angels and typical crowdfunding mechanisms being that these projects are largely one-offs from already established brands, and not debut collections from a start-up enterprise.  Frederique Constant, certainly not a brand most observers would expect to dabble in a crowdfunding project, is the latest to partner with Watch Angels on a new limited edition release. The Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture seen here is a new and slightly more refined spin on a signature Frederique Constant complication. They’ve been making some version of this watch since 2012 (remember their 10th anniversary worldtimer t...

Introducing – The New Louis Vuitton Tambour High-End Yellow Gold Onyx & Platinum Rainbow Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Tambour High-End Yellow Gold Feb 19, 2025

Introducing – The New Louis Vuitton Tambour High-End Yellow Gold Onyx & Platinum Rainbow

The drum-shaped Tambour watch of 2002, Louis Vuitton’s first foray into high-end watchmaking, underwent a sea change in 2023 to become a player in the luxury sports watch sector. Equipped with an integrated bracelet and slimmed down, the new Tambour has appeared in sporty stainless steel and luxurious gold cases. Alongside the release of the […]

Hands-On: the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph in Steel Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Feb 19, 2025

Hands-On: the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph in Steel

Sometimes we lose sight of the fact that our enthusiast romance associated with a mechanical movement can be another’s annoyance. Our beloved rituals of winding and setting, feeling the grinding clicks in your fingertips, and double-checking you’ve set it correctly can act as a barrier to entry for some, leaving a mechanical watch inside a dresser drawer. That is why I am a proponent of luxury brands exploring quartz calibers, particularly within their more popular collections. Removing that barrier and often lowering its price point means that the watch and the hobby as a whole can be accessed by more people, which is the ultimate goal, after all. All that being said, if a luxury brand is going to make a quartz watch and charge a luxury price, you have to make it a good one. Stepping off of my soap box, I’ll happily admit that when TAG Heuer released the Aquaracer with a solar quartz caliber inside, I too scoffed at the price and questioned its purpose. While the design language spoke to me with its warmly hued titanium construction and tasteful accents, I just didn’t understand why TAG Heuer would charge a price many multiples of what other solar quartz calibers commonly sell for. That was until I had the opportunity to have a period of hands-on time with it. I found myself enjoying its lightweight yet solid construction, the fun application of lume, and even became a bit enamored by the angular case lines, which had previously been a bit off-putting. So when I s...

Introducing: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M In Bronze Gold And Burgundy Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Feb 19, 2025

Introducing: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M In Bronze Gold And Burgundy

By now, we are used to catching glimpses of future Omega Seamaster Diver 300M releases on Daniel Craig’s wrist. Despite his retirement as 007, Craig is the Biel-based brand’s go-to ambassador for new Seamaster variants. And with great success, we might add. The online watch universe goes wild whenever the British actor straps a yet-to-be-released […] Visit Introducing: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M In Bronze Gold And Burgundy to read the full article.

Introducing: The BA111OD Chapter 7 Certified Chronometer Fratello
Feb 19, 2025

Introducing: The BA111OD Chapter 7 Certified Chronometer

Since 2019, BA111OD has offered edgy, affordable Swiss timepieces. The brand from Neuchatel offers a tourbillon, manufacture complications, and several avant-garde mechanical watches. The models even have chapter names, and today’s piece, the Chapter 7, is the first to receive a chronometer certification. With rising prices from many traditional “high street” brands, smaller independent watch […] Visit Introducing: The BA111OD Chapter 7 Certified Chronometer to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Citizen Promaster Diver (37mm) Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Diver 37mm Amidst Feb 18, 2025

Hands-On: the Citizen Promaster Diver (37mm)

Amidst the three and four-figure divers that dominate the market, Citizen has a reputation for being the everyman’s watch. Though the brand offers a variety of styles and price points, their dive watches tend to be one of the most popular options amongst their fan base.  Launched in 1989, the Promaster series was developed with the goal of providing professional-grade, reliable watches for divers and outdoor enthusiasts. The first Promaster dive watch was equipped with advanced features like a high-water resistance rating, luminous hands for visibility underwater, and a rotating bezel to track elapsed time.These Promasters featured an arrow logo, symbolizing the watch’s ability to “go higher and deeper” than Citizen’s previous collections. This arrow is still included on the crown of modern Promaster references, tying these new releases into a longer history of one of the brand’s favored series. Citizen made waves in the summer of 2023 when they released a smaller version of their Eco-Drive divers. Those releases brought the Eco-Drive Promaster, traditionally sized 44mm, into the realm of the smaller-wristed by shaving off a whopping seven millimeters. These options came in three dial colors: gray, blue, and black, and all had a color-matched bezel. Three more colorways were debuted this past December, which included purple, blue, and red dial options. Along with the new colors, the brand made some aesthetic changes to these 37mm divers. Though the three color...

The Quintessential American-Made Watch Movement in a Smaller Case: Int Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 18, 2025

The Quintessential American-Made Watch Movement in a Smaller Case: Int

RGM Watch Company, named for the initials of its founder, independent watchmaker Roland G. Murphy, is the first American watch company to serially produce a mechanical watch movement since 1969 — the year that Lancaster, PA-based Hamilton pulled up stakes for its current HQ in Switzerland. Murphy, formerly Hamilton’s Technical Manager, founded his own eponymous company in Lancaster County, a historical hotbed of watchmaking, in 1992. His fledgling firm made the watch industry, and the worldwide watch-enthusiast community, take notice when it created, essentially from scratch, the groundbreaking Caliber 801 in 2007 —  a horological milestone that no other watchmaker in the United States had achieved in nearly 40 years.  Since then, Caliber 801 has come to define RGM’s distinctive and still very exclusive product family — the brand still makes only around 300 pieces annually — along with its dedication to classically vintage aesthetics, which evoke the bygone days when America reigned supreme as a watchmaking nation. Up until now, however, the smallest RGM watch you could get that housed the Caliber 801 movement, 90 percent of which is made in the U.S.A. and finished and assembled in Lancaster County, was 42mm — not huge, but still a bit intimidating for some would-be owners as case sizes continue to trend smaller. This week, RGM answers that constituency's prayers with the release of the Caliber 801/40 model, whose 40mm stainless steel case represents, accor...

IWC’s Super Shock Resistant Big Pilot XPL Gains Formula 1 Livery SJX Watches
Richard Mille Feb 18, 2025

IWC’s Super Shock Resistant Big Pilot XPL Gains Formula 1 Livery

IWC gives its exceptionally shock resistant – and strikingly expensive – aviator’s watch a new look. The Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff is dressed in the black and green livery of the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team that’s sponsored by IWC and led by Austrian auto entrepreneur Toto Wolff. Although largely unchanged from the original version, the Toto Wolff edition features a stamped, grained dial with a cleaner aesthetic and open-worked hands. And the BMG shock-absorbing spring that rings the movement is coated in Petronas green Super-LumiNova for maximum visual effect. Initial thoughts Despite its (very) limited commercial success, the original Big Pilot XPL is an interesting example of horological engineering. While its considerable price tag was debatable, the technology inside was novel and exemplifies IWC’s historical focus on engineering. The new iteration is hardly revolutionary since it’s merely a cosmetic makeover, but it does bring a new aesthetics that might give the watch a bigger audience, especially with the high profile of Formula 1 and Toto Wolff himself thanks to the Netflix series about the sport. The new Toto Wolff edition is priced at US$102,000, comparable to the first version and steep for a time-only watch, especially so for an IWC. However, seen another way, the price is perhaps competitive since the another brand that has long emphasised shock resistance and Formula 1 is Richard Mille, and any of its watches is...