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Swiss Made

Legally regulated country-of-origin mark. Since 2017 requires at least 60% Swiss production cost, Swiss movement, Swiss development, and Swiss assembly and inspection.
Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 Fratello
Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Apr 2, 2025

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575

Complicated watches are not the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Panerai. Having said that, the Italian-born Swiss brand has shown us over the years that it can integrate brilliant technical wizardry into its iconic models. Two great examples are the current Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT in Goldtech and Platinumtech. Both seem […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 to read the full article.

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Introducing the Zenith G.F.J., a Chronometry Focused Tribute to the Brand’s Founder Worn & Wound
Zenith G.F.J Apr 1, 2025

Introducing the Zenith G.F.J., a Chronometry Focused Tribute to the Brand’s Founder

Last year, I had the privilege of sitting down with Benoit de Clerck to talk about all things Zenith. At the time, Benoit was just a few short months into his tenure as CEO of Zenith, and Watches & Wonders was only barely in the rearview, but de Clerck made it very clear that he was already looking ahead, not just generally, but towards something very specific, and very exciting. “I’m working hard on something new next year, which - obviously - I like, because it’s very unique, and we’re producing very small quantities and all that. And, I can’t tell you much more, but next year we’re celebrating our 160th year and we will come up with something that the collectors will be very, very, very happy with.” Well, now, nearly a year later, we know what that “something new” is, and de Clerck was absolutely right - because it is something to be very, very happy with. I’m talking, of course, about the new Zenith G.F.J. G.F.J., in this case, stands for Georges Favre-Jacot, the name of the man who founded Zenith some 160 years ago, but it might as well stand for ‘Great F***ing Job’ because Zenith has knocked it out of the park with this one. At the heart of the G.F.J. is a revived version of the calibre 135, a historically significant and long-dormant movement, designed by Ephrem Jobin in the years after World War II and produced from 1949 to 1962. The Calibre 135 was widely used by Zenith at that time, but especially prized is the 135-O variant created...

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TAG Heuer Refreshes the Carrera Day-Date and Adds a GMT Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Refreshes Apr 1, 2025

TAG Heuer Refreshes the Carrera Day-Date and Adds a GMT

Reinventing the wheel can be overrated-sometimes, expanding on an already-beloved design is the best way to drum up excitement. The original Heuer Carrera-released in 1963 as Jack Heuer’s horological love letter to the 1950s Carrera Panamericana Road Race held in Mexico-would develop as a symbol of motorsports success over the following decades, frequently gifted to victorious drivers at huge events. As the current official timekeeper of Formula 1, the Swiss company is continuing that legacy of motorsports prowess with new watches in the Carrera Day-Date collection, keeping the elements that have made the watch an icon, while pushing the design ever forward.  With six new models and ample features, the Day-Date collection can seem as daunting as an F1 circuit at first. Five of the models, though, are mechanically identical, with differences ranging from materials to color schemes-these are the “regular” Day-Date pieces, while the Date Twin-Time represents a distinct complication. First, let’s take a look at the new Day-Date references.  Each Day-Date features a fine-brushed and polished steel 41mm case with a steel polished crown at 3 o’clock, a beveled and domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment, and a steel screw-down case back that touts a 100m water resistance. A Calibre TH31-02 automatic movement pulses inside each Day-Date, and a day-date window sits at the 3:00 position. White Super-LumiNova additionally coats the hour and mi...

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The Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic Gets a Thematically Appropriate Blue Dial Worn & Wound
Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic Gets Apr 1, 2025

The Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic Gets a Thematically Appropriate Blue Dial

Alpina’a venerable Alpiner collection has no shortage of eye-catching dial textures, complications, and even experimental pizzazz. But perhaps what it was missing was a model that exemplified both the 1933 origins of the line and its future as an iconic Swiss sport watch. Enter the new Alpiner Extreme Automatic, sporting a dial color that makes so much sense, it’s a little baffling that Alpina hasn’t tapped into it before. The glacier blue hue of the face immediately conjures images of icy slopes, and the repeating Alpine summit triangle motif that texturizes the dial and brings the design straight to the Alps. The Alpiner Extreme Automatic also hangs onto distinctive design features that make it instantly recognizable: the rounded square cushion case, measuring at 39 x 40.5mm, in chilly steel. A vertical brushed satin finish on the bezel (matching that of the three links on the bracelet) contrasts the mirror-polished case, and the triangle motif can be found again on the six exposed screws that circle the bezel.  A screw-down crown with a rubber ring of glacier blue both assures the Alpiner’s 200m water resistance, and brings a unified sense of color and form to the fringes of the design. A slightly-lighter blue outer minute track with white markers runs around the perimeter of the dial, adding some dimension to the face of the watch, while applied silver, luminous indexes mark the hours. A date window at 3 o’clock, hand-polished silver and luminous hour and mi...

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Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 270th Anniversary SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 270th A... Apr 1, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 270th Anniversary

Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th birthday in style with a clever limited edition of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding featuring a unique dial pattern that depicts the brand’s emblematic Maltese Cross. In total, 740 pieces will be made, with production split evenly between the platinum and 18k rose gold editions. Initial thoughts The 38 mm Traditionnelle has long been a staple (and fan favourite) within the Vacheron Constantin (VC) catalogue. Over the years we’ve seen numerous limited editions for specific boutiques and the brand has even made one-off pieces for its best customers. So it makes sense that VC would return to this watch as part of its milestone 270th birthday. On paper, the anniversary edition is classic Traditionnelle, featuring the model’s goldilocks proportions of 38 mm by 7.77 mm. One of my favourite characteristics of this watch, and the Traditionnelle collection more broadly, is VC’s unique take on the Dauphine-style hands, which are divided along their length into polished and frosted sections. This touch catches the light in a truly special way, and brings a great deal of life to the dial. The Traditionnelle is powered by the well-known cal. 4400, but it’s dressed up with special ‘côte unique’ finishing for this anniversary edition. It’s an interesting choice, being more muted in its appearance than typical Genevois finishing. The only other difference between the anniversary Traditionnelle and the regular production models is...

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Introducing: The Rolex Settimo Bracelet For The Perpetual 1908 In 18K Yellow Gold Fratello
Rolex Settimo Bracelet Mar 31, 2025

Introducing: The Rolex Settimo Bracelet For The Perpetual 1908 In 18K Yellow Gold

According to Lex, wearing a Rolex watch is like saying, “I made it, and I want everybody to know it.” But he also said, “For those who want something more discrete, though, there’s the Rolex Perpetual 1908 dress watch.” Then again, he didn’t know the brand was working on a full 18K yellow gold bracelet […] Visit Introducing: The Rolex Settimo Bracelet For The Perpetual 1908 In 18K Yellow Gold to read the full article.

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Grand Seiko Steps Into The Future With New Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB001 And SLGB003 Fratello
Grand Seiko Steps Into Mar 31, 2025

Grand Seiko Steps Into The Future With New Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB001 And SLGB003

Seiko founded Grand Seiko to pursue watchmaking excellence. Most commonly, this mission translated into creating the most accurate watches possible. Later on, aesthetics also played an increasingly important part thanks to the Grammar of Design. Grand Seiko was Seiko’s answer to the Swiss domination of the industry, and the line offered watches that could compete […] Visit Grand Seiko Steps Into The Future With New Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB001 And SLGB003 to read the full article.

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F.P. Journe Introduces the Chronomètre Furtif SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces Mar 31, 2025

F.P. Journe Introduces the Chronomètre Furtif

As is tradition for F.P. Journe, the unique creation made for the most recent Only Watch has now evolved into a regular production watch, the Chronomètre Furtif, that has the same dimensions and movement, but an entirely different material and style. The Chronomètre Furtif is striking, all-black sports watch that is almost entirely in tungsten carbide, a hard and strong material typical used for tooling. The furtif, or “stealthy”, aspect is enhanced by the tone-on-tone fired enamel dial in dark grey with laser engraved markings that are primarily visible to the wearer. Initial thoughts The Chronomètre Furtif is expected because of the Only Watch edition that came before it – and because Francois-Paul Journe has talked about it – but it is novel amongst F.P. Journe watches for the all-black look. That said, it is still recognisable as an F.P. Journe as it inherits many elements from the lineSport. In the hand, the Chronomètre Furtif is almost entirely black at many angles, though the mirror-like dial is highly reflective. And it is impressively heavy at some 250 g, though it sits well because the case is wide and flat. But most of all, the low-key look is arguably all the more appropriate given the fame of the maker and the desirability of his watches. At this moment in time I would absolute love a furtif F.P. Journe rather than a highly recognisable model like the Elegante or Chronomètre Bleu. The cal. 1522 inside Stealth and l0w-key The Chronometre Furtif ret...

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[VIDEO] Deep in the Heart of Texas: Recapping the First Ever Windup Watch Fair Dallas Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward dazzled Mar 28, 2025

[VIDEO] Deep in the Heart of Texas: Recapping the First Ever Windup Watch Fair Dallas

Everything’s bigger in Texas, and that now includes the Windup Watch Fair! On March 15-16, 2025, Windup made its grand Lone Star State debut at the historic Hickory Street Annex in Dallas. Kicking off its 10th-anniversary celebrations, the fair brought together over 40 watch brands, passionate collectors, and curious newcomers-because let’s be honest, who doesn’t love hanging with a bunch of watch lovers? The Hickory Street Annex, originally built in 1921 as a Gulf Oil distribution center, set the perfect scene with its warm-industrial vibes. The airy, two-level venue gave guests plenty of room to dive into the world of horology-chatting with brand reps, trying on watches, and maybe even convincing themselves that they definitely need just one more piece for their collection. The lineup? Absolutely stacked. Christopher Ward dazzled with their Anglo-Swiss masterpieces, including the ever-impressive Bel Canto and The Twelve. Oris, while proudly sporting Miss Piggy pink, also celebrated 60 years of dive watch excellence with a special anniversary edition, while Zodiac launched some striking new designs in the form of the Super Sea Wolf Compression Skeleton Night Diver. One of the weekend’s standout moments was the special screening of a brand-new documentary, America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova, which chronicles the brand’s history of innovation and firsts. The film explored the brand’s deep roots in American watchmaking, highlighting its role in everyth...

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Singer Reimagines the Valjoux 236 SJX Watches
Mar 28, 2025

Singer Reimagines the Valjoux 236

An offshoot of the cult “restomod” automaker specialising in Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined has up till now specialised in chronographs powered by the novel, modern AgenGraphe movement. Now the brand is taking the opposite tack with the Singer Reimagined Heritage Collection. The Heritage chronograph retains the signature Singer style, but is equipped with a rejuvenated and decorated Valjoux 236 movement that was originally made in the 1970s. The “new old stock” movement makes the Heritage more affordable than Singer’s earlier chronographs; it retails for CHF16,700 before taxes. Initial thoughts The Heritage chronograph has an appealing design with thoughtful details, which is unsurprising since Singer founder Marco Borracino is a designer by profession. Many of the details evoke 1970s motorsports chronographs, but the watch still manages to look original and capture the Singer house style. That said, the Heritage is less interesting than earlier Singer chronographs because the movement is pretty straightforward. The Valjoux 236 is a good example of high-quality industrial watchmaking of the mid-20th century, moreover it’s been dressed up well in for the Heritage. But it’s still a fairly basic chronograph movement that doesn’t have the inventiveness of the AgenGraphe found in Singer’s flagship Track 1 chronograph. But the Heritage chronograph is priced fairly for what it is. The CHF16,700 price tag makes it a competitive proposition. And it enjoys the adv...

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First Look – The New Platinum Editions of the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB3 SPC Monochrome
Chopard s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele Mar 28, 2025

First Look – The New Platinum Editions of the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB3 SPC

In 2015, one of the great names in 18th-century watchmaking was resurrected by Chopard’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. Ferdinand Berthoud (1727-1807), the Swiss horologist who emigrated to Paris in 1745 and gained fame for his marine chronometers, was granted a second lease of life. Determined to perpetuate the legacy and chronometric credentials of F. Berthoud’s past […]

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Christie’s to Sell Single-Owner Collection of 21st Century High Horology SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin are well represented but Mar 27, 2025

Christie’s to Sell Single-Owner Collection of 21st Century High Horology

Christie’s is continuing with its streak of single-owner watch collections into the 2025 season with Stories in Time. Made up of 160 watches – including a sizeable number of independents – the sale is the culmination of three decades of collecting by one collector. Representing 47 brands from A. Lange & Söhne to Voutilainen, the collection represents 21st century horology in all its diversity, capturing the evolution of contemporary watchmaking as it developed from the 1990s onwards. The watchmaking landscape Establishment brands like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin are well represented, but equally the independent watchmakers and brands out of the mainstream. While the brand with the largest number of pieces in the collection is Patek Philippe at 20, the second most numerous brand is De Bethune at 18. The line-up also includes nine watches by Greubel Forsey and seven from MB&F;, as well as a few examples of the Harry Winston Opus series. One of the nine Greubel Forsey watches in the sale, the Double Tourbillon 30° Edition Historique in platinum with an estimate of US$120,000-220,000 Almost every watch in the collection is in pristine condition and accompanied by the original boxes and paperwork, reflecting the collector’s meticulous approach. This collection will be offered at Christie’s sales across the world over the course of 2025, in Hong Kong, Dubai, Geneva, and New York in the eight auctions during the spring and autumn sales.  

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[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Grand Seiko SBGN003 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGN003 One Mar 27, 2025

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Grand Seiko SBGN003

One of the first things that you may be thinking is “wow, cool Explorer II homage”. I’d say you’re not totally wrong either because that’s how I made my way to the SBGN003. I was looking hard at 5 digit Explorer II’s, but still had a hard time committing to that much spend on a watch, especially with a 9 month old baby in the house and the pandemic still being very much a thing. I remember seeing the Grand Seiko SBGN003 pop up in my Instagram feed and started to do my deep dive. There was a lot to like about the watch, and being that I already had another GS with a 9F movement in my collection, I more or less knew what to expect. Once it hit the Watch Recon alerts page, I knew it would end up in my collection. If you’re able to set a Watch Recon alert without buying the watch, you are a stronger person than I.  When the watch showed up on a hot August afternoon, it just immediately clicked. The finishing on the 39mm steel case was perfect. It fit my 6.75” wrist like a glove and quickly rose to the top of my most-worn watches. Let’s take a closer look at this highly accurate, easy to wear GMT from Grand Seiko and how it’s held up over my tenure with the watch.    $3400 [VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Grand Seiko SBGN003 Case Stainless steel Movement 9F86 Dial Black Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 39 x 46mm Thickness 12.1mm Lug Width 19mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $...

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Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon Fratello
Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon Mar 27, 2025

Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon

With all the craziness set to occur next week in Geneva, Czapek has made the wise move to release a stunning new collection a bit early. The new Antarctique Tourbillon is a tour de force. It showcases a new movement and an impressive dial design. Before the onslaught of new releases begins, take the time […] Visit Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon to read the full article.

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Interview: Ilaria Resta, Chief Executive of Audemars Piguet SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Mar 26, 2025

Interview: Ilaria Resta, Chief Executive of Audemars Piguet

The chief executive of Audemars Piguet for just over a year now, Ilaria Resta leads the storied brand into its 150th year. In her short time at the helm, she has already overseen the opening of the expansive, vertically integrated Arc manufacture in Le Brassus as well as the first instalment of the brand’s anniversary celebrations. Prior to AP, she spent over 25 years in fast-moving consumer goods, first at Proctor & Gamble and then at Swiss fragrance and flavour specialist Firmenich, making her one of the rare outsiders at the top of Swiss watchmaking, a traditionally insular industry. We recently spoke to Ms Resta about balancing tradition and technology, collaborations, and why there will never be a Royal Oak Star Wheel. Along the way, she dropped a few tantalising hints as to what’s in store for the future, Ms Resta (right) at the recent opening of AP House Singapore, with member of the brand’s board of directors, Oliverio Bottinelli. Image – Audemars Piguet This interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Audemars Piguet is in Le Brassus, a town that’s in the historical heart of watchmaking. It’s the only brand of watchmaking’s “Holy Trinity” that’s not in Geneva. How do you think that makes AP special? Ilaria Resta (IR): First of all, we are there because we were born there. We decided not to move, and we will never move from our birthplace. It is a choice of being true to our legacy and to stay close to the manufacturing. For me, it’s ext...

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DOXA Adds a New GMT to the Collection Worn & Wound
Doxa Adds Mar 26, 2025

DOXA Adds a New GMT to the Collection

Like Brendan Fraser’s career, the Polaroid camera, and even Crystal Pepsi, sometimes a renaissance of a once-beloved product can cause a lot of excitement in the market. I have a suspicion the same will be said of DOXA’s new SUB 250T GMT, which will be debuting at Watches and Wonders this year.  As the name suggests, this is the first GMT function for the SUB collection in twenty years, answering the prayers for fans of the Swiss brand who have been asking for this configuration over the last two decades. With this latest release, we see a SUB design that’s true to its heritage (having been inspired by the SUB 750T GMT from 2006), but upgraded to meet contemporary needs – and in a whopping 18 new references. Starting from a design perspective, the real beauty of the SUB 250T GMT is that it hasn’t strayed too far away from its existing language, while still mixing form and functionality to give the people what they want. With nine colorways to choose from and in two strap options (a color-matched FKM rubber strap or a DOXA stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet), each variation complements the 40mm stainless steel case and bezel. But, of course, this is a watch that’s meant to be worn – and put to the limit. With the new GMT function, it’s just waiting for an adventure. Sure, it’s a sports watch, but it’s one that’s been made to adapt to the wearer’s lifestyle. Heading on a plane for a meeting you can’t miss? Catching a few rays or diving am...

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Introducing: The New Horage K3 Automatic Caliber Fratello
Mar 25, 2025

Introducing: The New Horage K3 Automatic Caliber

Last week, Horage introduced the DecaFlux with its latest in-house movement, the K3. This is a silicon-equipped caliber designed to offer modern watchmaking technology to a broader audience. As an independent Swiss brand, Horage has continually pursued innovation in mechanical watchmaking, challenging conventions and embracing new materials. The K3 represents the latest chapter in this […] Visit Introducing: The New Horage K3 Automatic Caliber to read the full article.

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Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Geometry Black Worn & Wound
Schwarz Etienne Introduces Mar 25, 2025

Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Geometry Black

In 2023, Schwarz Etienne debuted the Geometry line of watches. With its deconstructed dial, this collection has mixed technical precision and artistic license to create a set of watches that show that going a little avant-garde can have a huge pay-off. Right in time for Watches and Wonders, the Swiss house has released the final addition to their Geometry line, the Geometry Black.  Previous iterations of the Geometry line have included a salmon and silver dial option, both accentuating the ripples of guilloché in alternative patterns, including a variety of finishes: fluted lines, azuré, clous de Paris and fine sandblasted finishes. Here, the Geometry Black is a bit more subtle, but nonetheless visually appealing. The black colorway is a grown-up alternative to previous models that feels more appropriate for everyday wear, or for more formal occasions, without sacrificing the impressive technical expertise needed to build a watch as balanced as this one. Apart from the dial, Schwarz Etienne made the right decision in keeping the rest of the watch fairly spartan. Other than the lacine-style hands and sandblasted anthracite subdial, there aren’t a lot of bells and whistles – or even numerals, for that matter – to distract from the real star of the show. Coming in a 39mm stainless steel case and paired with a patinated black leather strap, I wouldn’t say this watch is simple but it’s minimal in the best way possible. Like previous references in the collection, th...

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The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Reverend Henry Leonard Nelthropp – The First Great Collector of Watches and Clocks Worn & Wound
Mar 25, 2025

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Reverend Henry Leonard Nelthropp – The First Great Collector of Watches and Clocks

Few private horological collections survive intact from the 19th century. The fully catalogued collection of clocks and watches by Rev. Henry Leonard Nelthropp FSA was made initially without the benefit of any reference books. The extensive collection of 260 items was presented to the Clockmakers’ Museum in 1894 and is a fascinating insight into the mind of a pioneering private collector. Reverend Henry Nelthropp FSA (1820 – 1901) began his career as a curate in Bristol. He then served as Chaplain to the British Legation in Switzerland but after receiving an inheritance, retired to London. From 1854, he had indulged in his fascination for horology and had begun to collect. He built up a remarkable knowledge of his subject, although few reference books were available to him. After receiving an inheritance, Nelthropp focused on collecting clocks and watches with historical significance, particularly those from the 17th and 18th centuries. His collection included examples of all types of British and European clockmaking and scientific instruments, including a variety of longcase clocks, bracket clocks, early pocket watches, hour glasses, astrolabes, celestial globes amongst other horological items. Drum shaped clock by an unknown maker, Germany, 1525-1550. The Clockmakers’ Museum/Clarissa Bruce © The Clockmakers’ Charity This is one of the earliest pieces in the Nelthropp collection. A drum shaped clock by an unknown maker in Germany made between 1525-1550. It has an...

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