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Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we dive into the vast world of pre-owned Rolex. More specifically, we try to find some of the best affordable (relatively speaking, of course) Rolex Datejust models. As a result of the price drops on the pre-owned market over the last 12–18 months, many of the overly expensive Rolex […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Pre-Owned Rolex Datejust Models to read the full article.
Monochrome
One of France’s oldest family-owned and run luxury companies, Hermès started life in 1837 as a producer of harnesses and saddles in Paris. Renowned for its impeccable artisanal craftsmanship and intrepid artistic flair, Hermès manages to endow its watches with a singular dash of poetry. The equestrian-inspired profile of the Arceau, which has hosted poetic […]
Fratello
Some of my earliest watch-collecting memories concern vintage Heuer. The ’60s chronographs, with their captivating names, left an indelible mark in my subconscious. How could they not? The breadth of choices, from clinical (the Carrera) to zany (the Monaco), has always been a veritable feast for the eyes. Yet, have watch collectors ever witnessed a […] Visit Vintage Heuer: The Most Predictably Volatile Market Around? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Bulgari’s flagship launch at the recent LVMH Watch Week was the mechanical version of its signature watch, the Serpenti Automatic. Available as a Seduttori with a conventional bracelet and a Tubogas multi-loop bracelet version, the Serpenti Automatic is stays faithful to the model in terms of design. But the new Serpenti is notable for what’s inside: the newly developed Lady Solotempo BVS100 movement, which reveals LVMH’s plans for its watch division, which is now led by Frédéric Arnault. Conceived as a compact workhorse with a useful 50-hour power reserve, the BVS100 is an industrial calibre created by Bulgari, but it will be produced by sister brand Zenith, creating an “ecosystem” for the LVMH watch brands. The Serpenti Tubogas Automatic with its distinctive flexible, looped bracelet Initial thoughts The Serpenti is iconic Bulgari, and the BVS100 is an interesting, albeit industrial and cost-efficient, movement. But the most interesting section in the announcement of the Serpenti Automatic wasn’t about the watches themselves, but the background of the calibre: “The BVS100… developed and currently produced by Bvlgari in Le Sentier, is expected to be included in the future catalog of in-house movements available to other LVMH group Maisons and to be manufactured by Zenith… Bvlgari is proud to contribute to the manufacturing ecosystem established by LVMH in support of Watchmaking excellence and craftsmanship in Switzerland.” The “catalog of in-house ...
SJX Watches
Bulgari upgrades its signature snake-inspired watch with an all-new, in-house movement. Retaining the familiar oval case, the Serpenti Automatic debuts in two variants, the Serpenti Seduttori Automatic and Serpenti Tubogas Automatic, both equipped with the BVS100 calibre. A hint of where the LVMH watch brands are going, the BVS100 is a compact, workhorse automatic movement developed by Bulgari and slated to be produced by sister brand Zenith for other brands in the LVMH stable. Initial thoughts The historical Serpenti in enamel is arguably an iconic women’s watch, and the modern-day take on the design is bigger, bolder, and sports cleaner lines. While the Serpenti Seduttori is more subtle, the Tubogas version is especially compelling with its double-twirl bracelet that is classic Bulgari. The in-house movement is a worthy upgrade for this iconic design, although the movement is an industrial calibre rather than a high-end creation. That, however, is reflected in the relatively affordable price of the entry-level models, which start at about US$10,000. While the price is on the high side for a time-only watch with a straightforward automatic movement, it can be rationalised by the iconic design and excellent bracelet work, even on the base models. All-new movement The Serpenti Seduttori is offered in seven distinct variations - stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, rose gold two-tone, and white gold - with the option of diamond settings for the yellow gold and whit...
SJX Watches
Ming has unveiled the 37.09 Uni, the latest addition to its line of dive watches. Sharing the same architecture as its predecessor-the 37.09 Bluefin, the “Uni” has a black-and-orange aesthetic along with 600 m of water resistance. According to Ming, the livery of the 37.09 Uni takes inspiration from the sea urchin, uni in Japanese. The watch features a DLC-coated stainless steel case and an orange scaled on the inner sapphire dial that measures elapsed time. Initial thoughts I appreciate the distinctive Ming aesthetic with its signature flared lugs and minimalist here. Here it’s combined with a sapphire dial and subtle orange accents, and the result is appealing. The 37.09 Uni, however, costs CHF5,250, which is steep price tag for what it is. Although the overall execution is elaborate, it’s still a micro-brand dive watch equipped with an inexpensive (albeit customised) Sellita movement. While there was a moment during the pandemic where micro-brand offerings somehow made sense at various points of the price spectrum, due in part to the unavailability of everything else, but that time has passed. For Ming fans, the new diver is an appealing watch, but for everyone else there are alternatives. Uni Designed in the familiar Ming style, the DLC-coated stainless steel case is compact at 38 mm in diameter, though it has the height of a dive watch at 12.8 mm in thickness. Entirely matte brushed, the case sports a stepped bezel and domed sapphire crystal. Two oversized c...
Time+Tide
While two-tone may transport some of us straight to the '80s, these five watches prove that the trend could be on the rise again.The post 10 of the best two-tone watches, because things were better in the ’80s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer has re-teamed with Porsche for a follow up to one of their most popular collaborations of the last few years. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye builds on the success of 2023’s TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, evolving the watch with a new dial and a few other changes to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Porsche 911’s early success at the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally. The big selling point of the Chronosprint, which is based on the visual format established by the ‘Glassbox’ Carrera introduced in 2023, is the unique implementation of its chronograph. Where a traditional chronograph’s sweep seconds hand will move around the dial at an even pace, the Chronosprint’s chronograph hand jumps off the starting line, sweeping across a third of the dial in 9(.1) seconds, before slowing down over the next 49.9 seconds to cross the minute mark at, well, a minute, before speeding up again. It’s one of the rare watches I’ve encountered in recent memory that feels like it offers a genuinely unique take on what is otherwise a pretty standard complication. For the most part, this year’s Chronosprint is the same watch Zach introduced 18 months ago, save for a handful of aesthetic changes, inspired by the Porsche 911 “147” used for the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally. Foremost among these is that this year’s Chronosprint drops the silvered dial of the last model in favor of what TAG Heuer is calling a “Black Shimmery” dial. Basically, ...
Hodinkee
From brand growth to candid conversations about commercial positioning, we break down the things worth paying attention to besides the watches.
Worn & Wound
When I was in middle school, my Saturday afternoons were my own. My younger brother played travel soccer, my dad was his coach, and my mom rarely missed a game, so just about every weekend in the Fall and Spring, I had the house to myself for a few hours. One of my favorite things to do during these reprieves from my family was to go up to my dad’s attic office, open up his watch box - a brown leather box that held five watches - and marvel at what I found inside. Something about that brown leather box communicated with perfect clarity that anything found inside it was to be treasured. That experience is probably no small part of why I love watches today, and a part of me is always looking to recapture the wonder I felt sneaking into my dad’s office and opening up his watch box. These days, it’s a harder experience to find, and I generally think a lot less about watch boxes - most of my watches either sit out on a felt pad on my desk or live in a set of retrofitted metal drawers from IKEA. Still, every so often, someone goes the extra mile and makes a watch box that’s hard to ignore. With their new acrylic Watch Box, L’Epée 1839 has done just that. If you know of L’Epée 1839, it’s probably from their clocks. And they’ve made some incredible clocks over the years; from very traditional carriage clocks to their collaborative pieces made with MB&F; (the Destination Moon is a personal favorite), L’Epée 1839 has consistently been a leader in Swiss cloc...
Fratello
Today, after a two-year absence, Farer reintroduces the new GMT Bezel Collection. Four watches comprise the lineup. They include two diameters and several color options. Automatic movements, a healthy spec sheet, and affordable pricing make the return of these watches a welcome one. While Farer continues to offer different styles of GMT watches, the GMT […] Visit Introducing: The Return Of The Farer GMT Bezel Collection to read the full article.
Fratello
Last January, Swatch introduced the crowd-pleasing, all-black Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean of Storms. Just one month ago, in early December, the Blue Lagoon model made its debut. In 2025, Swatch is looking at life through rose-tinted glasses as it introduces this latest iteration in the SFF lineup. Meet the bright and bold Blancpain × Swatch […] Visit Hot Take: Living “La Vie En Rose” With The New Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Pink Ocean to read the full article.
Fratello
For its first release of 2025, Christopher Ward decided to give the Dune collection a facelift. The English brand is introducing new dials for the Dune Automatic models in stainless steel and bronze. Additionally, Christopher Ward adds its third Dune GMT model to the lineup. After the inaugural black-dial limited edition, last year saw the […] Visit Christopher Ward Introduces The Updated C65 Dune Aeolian Collection to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
It’s LVMH Watch Week and TAG Heuer has dropped a new Carrera Chronosprint – the Porsche Rallye in black. We went hands-on with it prior to the launch to see how the new variant handles. What We Love Good size for most wrists and wears slightly smaller than the specs suggest The unique chronograph movement is a bit of fun Vintage styling is a nice touch What We Don’t The bracelet could use more of a taper as well as a quick change option Still no screw-down crown on a 100m sports watch Setting an accurate reference time isn’t as easy due to the small minute track Overall Score 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 It’s no secret that TAG Heuer and Porsche share a long history, both in a shared name, the Carrera, stemming from the Carrera Panamericana race, as well as an association with each other. There have been numerous TAG Heuer x Porsche pieces over the years, but one of the more unique pieces was the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche TAG Heuer, which was developed and launched in late 2023. We didn’t do a hands-on review on this piece at the time, more like a pseudo-review as we did have the watch for the day prior to launch and were able to play with it and see how it looked and wore on the wrist. We also showcased the strange, but cool way it tracks the time on the chronograph, mimicking the original Porsche 911’s time of 0-100km/h in 9.1 seconds using a specially designed snail gear in the chronograph mec...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The uniform is uniform, but the watch remains an expressive blend of utility and aesthetic style unique to that military professional. Not exclusive to, but prevalent within the Special Operations community is the facilitation of relationships through common interests. The first SOF Truth states: “humans are more important than hardware”. For the Special Operations professional, people-not equipment, make the critical difference. Ironically, many of us are bonding over hardware…our watches.
Fratello
Welcome back to Fratello Talks, folks! What’s the best way to spend your hard-earned cash as a watch collector? Should you splurge on many or save for one special piece? One method satisfies curiosity and is fulfilling for some, but it can also leave you with your head spinning, a full watch box, and an […] Visit Fratello Talks: Splurge On Many Or Save For The One? to read the full article.
![[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/01/Longines_Ultra-Chron_Carbon_full_012_Full.jpg)
Worn & Wound
Following the release of the Longines Ultra-Chron in 2022, a revival of a very specific reference from 1968, Longines adds to the model family with the new Ultra-Chron Carbon. This model comes from a more modern age with a carbon and titanium construction, a monochromatic motif, and the same high-frequency automatic caliber inside. Initially, though, it is hard to tell if this model is meant to be an evolution of the former or an extension of the overall family. While there may still be some similarities to its sibling model, this new version does have its differences, which are important to note. As the only carbon case piece currently being offered by the brand, it is interesting that Longines decided to introduce it in the oft-overlooked Ultra-Chron collection rather than its more popular offerings like the Spirit Zulu Time or the Conquest. Potentially a byproduct of the simpler case architecture being a bit more friendly to the material, the forged carbon does seem to look right at home molded into the cushion case shape. $4900 [VIDEO] Hands-On: the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon Case Forged carbon Movement L836 Dial Anthracite Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Sailcloth Water Resistance 300 meters Dimensions 43 x 48.6mm Thickness 14.1mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $4900 Before taking a closer look, my mind immediately began to look back at a release from last year coming from another Swatch Group brand, the Tissot Sideral S, ready to call out similari...
Teddy Baldassarre
While Tiffany & Co. sparks immediate associations with its signature robin’s egg blue boxes, Art Nouveau lamps, and perhaps a certain Audrey Hepburn film, the jeweler does have a rich horological history that can be traced back to the mid-19th century. This week, the brand (now part of French luxury group LVMH) doubles down on its commitment to high horology in this century, releasing four distinct new watches that reinterpret the American high jeweler’s lengthy legacy for the contemporary watchmaking landscape. Debuting a collection of four new pieces, Tiffany & Co. cuts through the sense of stark minimalism that so often pervades modern design in favor of unabashed, maximalist opulence. Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria Enamel Watch Selfishly, it seems only fitting to begin with my personal favorite among the four new releases. Featuring a swirling-patterned enamel dial, 18k white-gold case, and hour markers set with diamonds of various shapes, the Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria Enamel infuses the brand’s well-established Eternity line of watches with the flair of one of its most sought-after lamp designs – the Wisteria Tiffany lamp. “Iconic” is often overused in the popular lexicon when referring to classic designs, and I try to use it sparingly. But in the case of Tiffany lamps — with their intricate latticework, motifs that draw upon the natural world, and the bold interplay of color, which only becomes more compelling as the light filters through their var...
Worn & Wound
Ten years ago, the Windup Watch Fair began with a simple idea: to bring watch enthusiasts together in a fun, approachable setting. A decade later, it has become the largest watch event in the world, connecting collectors, newcomers, and brands in a vibrant, community-focused space. In celebration of our 10th anniversary, we’re thrilled to announce the 2025 Windup Watch Fair schedule! With four fairs planned across the country-including a brand-new stop in Dallas-this milestone year promises to be our biggest and best yet. From exciting new partnerships to exclusive experiences, 2025 is the perfect time to join us and commemorate a decade of the Windup Watch Fair. Dallas: March 15-16, 2025 We’re excited to kick off the 2025 Windup Watch Fair season with our first-ever event in Dallas! Hosted at the Hickory Street Annex, this two-day fair will bring the same energy and passion for watches that fans have come to love, while connecting enthusiasts and brands in a vibrant new market. Located just minutes from downtown, the Hickory Street Annex offers a spacious setting that perfectly complements the approachable and community-driven spirit of the Windup Watch Fair. Stay tuned for more details on this new event very soon. San Francisco: May 2-4, 2025 Returning to the Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture, the San Francisco fair will once again welcome West Coast enthusiasts for three days of incredible watches, exciting panels, and community connections. Chicago: July 11-...
Hodinkee
The New MRG-B2100 Series Adds Traditional Japanese Inspiration To The MR G Lineup
Fratello
If you’ve never tried on a Gerald Charles watch, I suggest it. The shape is unconventional, but the fit is truly surprising. Now, to celebrate the brand’s 25th anniversary, the Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli is here with reduced dimensions all around to further improve the wearing experience. I’ve probably mentioned it before, but the […] Visit Hot Take: The Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet has just opened the doors of the first AP House in Singapore, situated in the Bar and Billiard Room of the historic Raffles Hotel. Opened in 1887, the Raffles is one of the grand hotels of Asia, having reopened in 2019 with only suites. Part of the hotel since the 19th century, the Bar and Billiard Room was until recently a restaurant, but its 1,000 m2, or almost 11,000 ft², is now home to an AP boutique, lounge, restaurant, and cafe all rolled into one. The latest AP House brings the total number of “houses” around the world to over 20, with other locations including Hong Kong, London, Los Angeles, Milan, New York, Shanghai, and Tokyo. Drawing inspiration from the brand’s home in Le Brassus and its surrounding natural beauty, the space also incorporates the distinctive flair of Singapore, including large panels made from trunks of the rain tree, a familiar sight around Singapore. Notably, AP House Singapore is home to the first-ever AP Café, which serves a menu that is Swiss but “reimagined through a Singaporean lens”, including Chicken Rice Club Sandwich and Gula Melaka Pain Suisse. “Designed to feel like a refined home, [AP House Singapore is] a haven where watch enthusiasts, newcomers, travellers, and anyone seeking a distinctive experience can gather, says Stefanie Ng, chief executive of Audemars Piguet South-East Asia, “Our doors are always open.” The AP Cafe Panels of rain tree wood decorate the walls AP House Singapore is also a sh...
SJX Watches
Perhaps Louis Vuitton’s most famous complication, the Spin Time is a three-dimensional jump hour that was historically synonymous with the original, chunky Tambour case. Now Louis Vuitton has revamped both the complication and case to create the Tambour Taiko Spin Time. More compact and elegant than its predecessor, the Tambour Taiko is an expertly detailed case matched with restrained “dolphin grey” livery. Also employed in the new Convergence, the new case is home to an equally new family of in-house movements that will be the foundation of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking. All of the Tambour Taiko Spin Time models – there are four in all, plus two gem-set variants – are equipped with movements from this family. The line-up starts with the 39.5 mm base model, while the rest are all 42.5 mm. They include the Spin Time Antipode with a novel world time function, and the top-of-the-line Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon combining the jumping hours complication with a central tourbillon. All feature the signature Spin Time display of jumping cubes that indicate the current hour with a contrast-colour face. From left: Spin Time, Spin Time Air, Spin Time Antipode, and Spin Time Flying Tourbillon (not to scale) Initial thoughts Though I like very much the original, chunky Tambour, the redesigned case has a more subtle, refined appeal. The Tambour Taiko is far more wearable and boasts a noticeably higher level of finishing and detail, though it does lose some of th...
Monochrome
The famous New York jewellery company Tiffany & Co. is forever lodged in our memories thanks to Breakfast at Tiffany’s opening scene as Audrey Hepburn looks longingly at jewels in the window display. Louis Comfort Tiffany, son of the founder of Tiffany, became design director in 1902 and was an influential figure in the Art […]
Time+Tide
Our driver's license-less NYC-based editor Zach finds himself drawn to the new Mercedes-AMG Team IWC Mark XX.The post Why the new IWC Mark XX F1 Mercedes Team watch is my current favourite in the brand’s catalogue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
In 2023, at Watches and Wonders Geneva, TAG Heuer proudly presented the new Carrera Chronograph Glassbox. We were immediately swept away by its 39mm size and the sexy curves on the edge of the dial. One year before, TAG Heuer released a limited-edition Monaco with a purple fumé dial inspired by some very early Heuer […] Visit Introducing: The 39mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Smoky Purple to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having acquired Tiffany & Co. in 2020, LVMH set about remaking the storied American jeweller. That extended to Tiffany’s watch division, which now debuts the first flagship creation under new ownership, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon. Led since 2021 by Nicolas Beau, the former chief of Chanel watches, Tiffany’s watch division turned to independent watchmaker Artime for the movement of the new tourbillon. Set with some 4 carats of diamonds, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon features an off-centre dial layout with a flying tourbillon at seven o’clock, along with a turquoise marquetry dial bearing a pair of diamond-set birds in flight. Initial thoughts One of Tiffany’s best-known jewellery designs, the Bird on the Rock has been a fixture in the brand’s catalogue for decades. A horological twist on the concept, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon is clearly part of an effort to position the design as a versatile icon that is Tiffany’s equivalent of the Serpenti. It’s a little bigger and thicker than the traditional ladies’ watch, though reminiscent of the MB&F; LM Flying T. The reason for the size is the AFT24T01 movement inside, which is more interesting than usual as it was developed for Tiffany & Co. by Artime, a recently established independent brand. The AFT24T01 has a high quality execution with appealing details, but it’s related to Artime’s own calibre for a men’s skeleton tourbillon, explaining its large size. As an opening effort, the Bird on a Flying...
Fratello
Ever since the Big Bang Meca-10 came out in 2016, the watch has stood out thanks to its 10-day caliber with a Meccano-inspired architecture. This year, though the 10-day power reserve isn’t new, some other things are. The re-engineered Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 now measures 42mm in diameter and comes in three variations. You can […] Visit Introducing: The Re-Engineered 42mm Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 In Three Versions to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The second watch from the relaunched brand shows that there was no way that the new Daniel Roth was going to be a one-hit-wonder.
Worn & Wound
I’m long on the record as being an unabashed fan of the Zenith Defy. If you search this website or listen to old podcasts, you’ll find plenty of instances of me saying that the Defy is my all time favorite line of sports watches, period. For as long as the Defy has existed, it’s been a showcase for Zenith at their most adventurous, both technically and aesthetically, and a reflection of the larger watch landscape at the current moment, whatever that happens to be. I’ve often framed my discussions of the Defy around wishing for a resurgence of the collection, which through the years has too often been ignored in favor of other objectively more popular Zenith collections, but with the release of the new Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton, it occurs to me that we really do, finally, have a fully fleshed out Defy collection, and Zenith is doing anything but ignoring it. The Defy Skyline effectively replaced the Defy Classic, a much loved (by enthusiasts) line of medium sized and quite thin sports watches that were available in both steel and ceramic cases. Running on Zenith’s Elite movements, they were design oriented pieces, and the skeletonized versions in particular really spoke to me. Zenith introduced a skeletonized version of the Skyline in 2023 (also at LVMH Watch Week), and now we have the chrono version, something that wouldn’t have been possible in the Elite-based Defy Classic. Part of the appeal of the Skyline, even in the non-chronograph variants, is the...
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