Time+Tide
The best and most random Seiko special editions
Seiko and limited editions - a match made in heaven. Here's some of the best.The post The best and most random Seiko special editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton
There’s no sports watch that I have a stronger connection to than the Zenith Defy. I’ve long told anyone who would listen that the Defy is, bar none, my favorite sports watch collection. From its inception, the Defy has been a watch associated with pushing both design and watchmaking boundaries, through the use of uncommon materials, avant-garde designs, and over-the-top specs. For whatever sports watch from a major Swiss brand you can name, I could probably think of a Defy that matches it in terms of what it can do, and eclipses it in terms of the always hard to quantify cool factor. Yes, of course this is subjective. But, I mean, is it really? Now that we’ve established that I love the Defy potentially all out of proportion, we can consider the latest entry in the growing collection, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. This is a combination of words that were always meant to meet in the form of a Defy – the writing has been on the wall since the intro of the first Defy Skyline, or least since the introduction of the Skyline Chronograph. One of the nice things about the Defy, as a collection, is that it truly offers a different flavor of the core watch for every taste, with dials that are skeletonized, or not, cases that are made from steel, or ceramic, and now chronographs offering some of those same decision points. My feelings on the Defy Skyline collection oscillate quite a bit. Whenever I put one on, I can’t help but compare it in my mind to the Defy...
SJX Watches
Frederique Constant Refines the Worldtimer Manufacture
Known for its value-oriented timepieces, Frederique Constant partnered Swiss crowdfunding specialist Watch Angels to reimagine the Worldtimer Manufacture. Now in a 40 mm format with a cleaner aesthetic, the limited-edition of 718 pieces will only be available for purchase through Watch Angels’ online shop via a pre-order. Initial thoughts Frederique Constant has some interesting and accessible models, ranging from perpetual calendars to tourbillons and even a flexural pivot monolithic oscillator. The Geneva-based brand is mostly a player in the under-CHF5,000 segment, with a focus on in-house engineering. This latest iteration of the Worldtimer Manufacture is a good example of Frederique Constant’s approach to blending appealing designs with in-house mechanics, while keeping the price accessible. This new release builds on the successful Classic Worldtimer Manufacture collection, but with a streamlined design and reduced case size. It looks like Watch Angels took the lead with the design, opting for a clean layout, strong blue hues and sharp case lines. In contrast to the original that has a fussy design with a world map dial, the new version is functional but still elegantly detailed. The reduced case size, cleaner dial, and sharp finishing make this a compelling worldtime complication timepiece. Furthermore, the limited edition costs virtually the same as the regular production model, making this collaboration very appealing. More broadly, the partnership between Fr...
Fratello
Modern Brands That Should Offer Quartz - Rolex, Omega, Ming, And More
Quartz movements were once seen as the ticking death knell of the mechanical watch industry. Many collectors scoff at these electronic pieces and will not consider them. However, there are pockets of enthusiasts who enjoy finely crafted quartz movements in equally well-made cases. Perhaps the largest knock on quartz is that its movements lack the […] Visit Modern Brands That Should Offer Quartz - Rolex, Omega, Ming, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Scales Down the 62GS to 30 mm and Stays Mechanical
Grand Seiko’s latest offering is unusual – it’s a 30 mm self-winding model specifically conceived for ladies, in contrast to the vast majority of the Grand Seiko catalogue that’s made up of men’s or mid-sized watches. The Heritage Collection 62GS Mechanical 30 mm measures just 10.5 mm thick, making it the brand’s slimmest mechanical model to date. Notably, the new 62GS pair, STGK031 and STGK033, are the first to adopt a case design found on men’s watches, refining it for a smaller format as a ladies model. Initial thoughts In my view, the 62GS case stands out as the most appealing configuration in Grand Seiko’s extensive lineup. While it retains a distinctly Japanese design heritage, it remains one of the few Grand Seiko models that blends vintage and modern styles. As an owner of the 40 mm 62GS, I can personally attest to its versatility on the wrist, largely due to its slim case profile. The new 62GS 30 mm is essentially a scaled down version of the 40 mm model. It stands out for being the first ladies’ models that adapt a design of a men’s watch. In contrast, earlier Grand Seiko ladies watches had a cushion-shaped case that is arguably less appealing since it doesn’t have a distinctive Grand Seiko style. While Grand Seiko’s continued emphasis on nature-inspired dials may feel somewhat overused, the 62GS 30 mm is priced similar to its men’s counterpart and still represents good value. 62GS The Grand Seiko catalogue does include mid-sized watches...
Fratello
Hands-On Video With The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph
Thomas recently published his love story on the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph. I also made a quick video about it since it was in our Fratello office for a few days. Seeing beautiful images of a watch is one thing, but seeing the hands in motion and the wheels and gears turning is […] Visit Hands-On Video With The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Zenith x Revolution Chronomaster Revival A3818 Cover Girl Carbon
Back in 2020, watch magazine Revolution introduced its first limited edition Zenith Chronomaster Revival, a watch with a bold dial layout inspired by a 1971 version of the legendary El Primero nicknamed the A3818 “Cover Girl”. This first edition was made in steel and was followed in 2022 by the Chronomaster Revival A3818 “Airweight Cover Girl” in […]
Time+Tide
Zenith & Revolution complete their trilogy of ‘Cover Girls’ with the lightest Zenith yet
Contemporary and classical in equal measure, this Chronomaster Revival A3818 'Cover Girl Carbon' is the lightest watch Zenith has ever made.The post Zenith & Revolution complete their trilogy of ‘Cover Girls’ with the lightest Zenith yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Edition
Baltic is one of the small and independent watch brands that have emerged in recent years and gained recognition for offering very reasonably priced and nicely designed watches with a vintage-inspired aesthetic. “Inspired by the past, made for the present”, to quote the brand. Whatever your sensibility, you will most likely feel good about a […]
Time+Tide
Omega starts the countdown to the Winter Olympics with a new 37mm Seamaster
Omega starts the countdown to next year's Winter Olympics with this dressy piece made in full Moonshine Gold. The post Omega starts the countdown to the Winter Olympics with a new 37mm Seamaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches
Alpina has been on a roll lately. The Swiss watchmaker has been busy updating its collection with some great new models. While most of you will probably know the brand’s sports pieces, we have also seen some great watches inspired by its past, which goes back more than a century. Indeed, Alpina is a brand […] Visit Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mount Iwate Ice-Blue SLGH027
Following the introduction of the Evolution 9 collection, with a new generation of mechanical and Spring Drive movements in 2020, Grand Seiko released a watch that will become a hit, the White Birch SLGH005. With its impressive dial, newly designed case and innovative movement, the watch made quite an impression… So much so that it […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Price of Admission: What Are The Least Expensive Breguet Watches?
For those in the know, Breguet is a name in the history of watchmaking that commands instant respect, and even reverence. The brand’s legendary founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is rightfully lauded as the inventor of the tourbillon, but his lifetime horological resumé goes far beyond even that: he made the first self-winding movement, the first watch that was wound by a crown rather than a key, the pare-chute shock protection system, and the gong system for repeater watches, among other innovations. His customers included historical figures like King Louis XVI of France, Queen Marie-Antoinette, and Napoleon Bonaparte. He even invented a style of hands that many other watchmakers other than Breguet still use today. The modern brand that bears his name is one of the undisputed, upper-echelon Swiss watch maisons, alongside names like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, and the jewel in the crown of the Swatch Group. All that said and acknowledged, a newcomer to Breguet, especially the prospective owner of his or her first Breguet watch, may find all of this background intimidating. And make no mistake, Breguet is unapologetic in both its embrace of historical renown and its timepieces’ exalted level of luxury. The brand’s modern-day stewards harbor no illusion that they offer anything that would be any aficionado’s “first watch.” The whole concept of “entry level” must be stretched a bit at this venerated tier of watchmaking: like Patek Philippe, A. Lan...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Champagne-Toned Shellman x Raymond Weil Millesime Centre Seconds
Shellman is a renowned watch retailer in Tokyo, represented by independent brands and a curated selection of vintage watches. Over the years, Shellman has commissioned limited editions from refined Swiss brands like Habring and Andersen Genève. The latest collaboration is with Raymond Weil, and the watch selected by Shellman is the Millesime Centre Seconds, the […]
Fratello
Hands-On: The New Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver Green
It’s been a little over a year and a half since Nivada Grenchen introduced the Antarctic Diver to us in May 2023. Since then, the Swiss brand has released many timepieces, including chronographs and watches with integrated bracelets. This, however, is the first time that a new model has been added to the Antarctic Diver […] Visit Hands-On: The New Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver Green to read the full article.
Monochrome
Industry News - Swatch Group Revenues and Profit Down in 2024
It’s the time of year when businesses announce their financial performance. Following Richemont and LVMH, Swatch Group has just released its 2024 results. In a challenging environment for the watch industry, the sales of Swatch Group – the Swiss powerhouse and owner of Omega, Longines or Tissot – were CHF 6,735 million, down 12.2% at […]
Monochrome
Introducing - Grand Seiko Updates the Heritage 62GS Sekki Collection with the New Rikka SBGH351 and Shubun SBGH353
Once upon a time (in 2019, to be precise), Grand Seiko released a quartet of watches known as the Sekki collection, models inspired by seasonal changes with colourful dials. Issued exclusively in the US and then made available worldwide, a single model dominates the Heritage 62GS Sekki collection, the much-hyped pink-toned SBGA413 Shunbun, closely followed […]
Worn & Wound
The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Edward East (1602-c.1697) - A Very Influential Clockmaker
Edward East was one of the most successful and distinguished London clockmakers of the 1600s. He was a shrewd businessman and brilliantly talented artisan who earned the high regard of the rich and famous of society. East made his name against the backdrop of one of the most turbulent times in British history. Early Life in the City of London Edward East was born on the 22nd of August 1602 in Southill, Bedfordshire. He was well-educated, and began his training in London, with the guild associated with gold and silversmithing known as the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths. Edward’s apprenticeship began in May 1617 under the Master Robert Podmore. In March 1618, his apprenticeship was transferred to Richard Rogers through the Goldsmiths’ Company. Rogers lived and worked on London’s Fleet Street, a bustling centre of commerce where many famous clock and watchmakers had already set up business. It was in this lively environment that Edward learned how to work with different metals and trained in specialist skills, such as engraving and ornamentation. He also met one of the leading London watchmakers, Edmund Bull (1585-1622), son of the eminent watchmaker and goldsmith John Bull. At some point, East may have worked as an apprentice for Bull, as there is evidence that he travelled with him on a business trip to Holland during this time. Pear-shaped watch in a rock crystal case. Gilt-brass dial engraved with the Nativity and a figure of Time. Made by Edward East, London, c....
Teddy Baldassarre
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Review
Back in 2023, LVMH and its high watchmaking workshop La Fabrique du Temps revived the Daniel Roth brand, which had been owned by Bulgari since 2000. Roth was a towering name in independent watchmaking, having been a peer of Philippe Dufour and Francois-Paul Journe. Though the brand only lasted from 1988 to 1995, its resurrection in 2023 was only made more glorious due to the long gap. The resurrected brand debuted with the Tourbillon Souscription, which has been followed up with the new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription, a faithful remake of the original from the 1990s that was released at LVMH Watch Week 2025. The “Neo-vintage” craze has only gotten more popular in recent years, with the generation of watches sandwiched between vintage and modern gaining the respect and appreciation of collectors and newcomers alike. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 reissue from 2023 was one of the most celebrated neo-vintage reissues in recent years and I’d venture to say that this Roth will join the ranks. Staying true to the original aesthetics — with contemporary concessions for things like movement development — is a recipe for success in these small-batch, high-visibility watches. Small production numbers for relative rarity are helping to keep neo-vintage from becoming overexposed, but for how long? We’ll have to wait and see on that end, but for now let’s get back to the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription. The simple, two-hand dress watch comes in that recognizable double-e...
Fratello
The Salmon-Dial Omega Speedmaster 3511.60 I Didn’t Know Existed
Here’s proof that you can learn something every day! I was under the (false) assumption that I was aware of basically every modern Speedmaster ever made. I have seen so many of them in my 25 years of collecting, including the ones some of you brought to the Speedy Tuesday events in the past decade. […] Visit The Salmon-Dial Omega Speedmaster 3511.60 I Didn’t Know Existed to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Why the Seiko Astron Might be the Most Important Watch of the 20th Cen
Among today’s Seiko watch models and collections, it’s fair to say that the Seiko Astron does not receive nearly the amount of love from enthusiasts and collectors as do its contemporaries, like the Prospex and Presage models and even the budget-friendly 5 Sport series. And yet I believe a substantial case can be made that the Astron — at least, the first watch to bear that name, way back at the collection’s inception in 1969 — is the most important watch of the 20th Century. The first watch to the market with a quartz movement, the Seiko Astron was a game-changer for the entire watch industry, with an impact that is still being felt today. When Seiko revived the Astron in 2012 after a long hiatus, it was with the recognition that the model represented a quantum leap in watchmaking technology and the determination to take it to the next level. Seiko has fulfilled that promise with subsequent editions of the modern Astron, which brought GPS technology into watchmaking much as the original brought quartz. Here is the story of the Seiko Astron and its 50-plus-year journey to the cutting edge of technology. The Road to Quartz: 1952 - 1968 The quartz watch movement, as with many other groundbreaking inventions, did not emerge from a single burst of creative vision, but ultimately proved to be the most workable version of many such mechanisms, all aimed toward addressing the same industry-wide challenge. As I explore in greater depth in my article on the History of Tim...
Time+Tide
Montoir adds more colour to its dive watch range with the MWMOD-01 V2
Montoir has made subtle tweaks and introduced new dial colours for its inaugural watch, a minimalist diver.The post Montoir adds more colour to its dive watch range with the MWMOD-01 V2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Mike’s Watch Resolutions For 2025 - Finally Selling Some Watches
When you sit down and think about it, the beginning of the year is an arbitrary time to think about goals. Sure, the calendar changes, but plans can be made anytime. For a collector like me, though, the beginning of the year is as good of a time as any to set resolutions. It forces […] Visit Mike’s Watch Resolutions For 2025 - Finally Selling Some Watches to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Astor+Banks Sea Ranger M2
Earlier this month when Kat Shoulders and I were discussing the concept of the “gateway watch” on the Worn & Wound podcast, the Astor+Banks Sea Ranger M2 was sitting just out of reach on my desk. I didn’t mention the newest iteration of the Sea Ranger concept in our discussion, but I very easily could have. This is a rock solid sports watch made by a micro-brand that has proven to be foundational in the space over the years, with just a little bit more than meets the eye when it comes to the finer details. Those details are the kinds of things that make a watch buyer a watch enthusiast, and there’s no doubt about it, Astor+Banks is an enthusiast focused brand. Still, the Sea Ranger M2 strikes me as the type of watch that, if it existed ten years ago, would be an easy recommendation for someone just starting out. The Sea Ranger M2 is positioned as a do-it-all adventure and tool watch, with a litany of impressive specs: 300 meters of water resistance, soft iron plates shielding the movement from magnetism, a pair of screw down crowns, a quick-adjust clasp (more on that later) and a La Joux-Perret movement with a 68 hour power reserve. These, for the most part, are calling cards of the modern tool watch, a baseline for what a brand has to do in order to claim their watch is a true go-anywhere-do-anything kind of timepiece. The micro-brand space is saturated (perhaps oversaturated) with watches in this genre, so it takes some work to stand out from the crowd. I don...
Fratello
Hot Take: Living “La Vie En Rose” With The New Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Pink Ocean
Last January, Swatch introduced the crowd-pleasing, all-black Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean of Storms. Just one month ago, in early December, the Blue Lagoon model made its debut. In 2025, Swatch is looking at life through rose-tinted glasses as it introduces this latest iteration in the SFF lineup. Meet the bright and bold Blancpain × Swatch […] Visit Hot Take: Living “La Vie En Rose” With The New Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Pink Ocean to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription
Almost two years ago, the Daniel Roth brand was resurrected by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique Du Temps. It started with a yellow gold Tourbillon Souscription (ref. DR0011YG-01) that was pretty much a copy of the tourbillon made by Monsieur Roth back in the 1990s. After another tourbillon in rose gold that was introduced last year, […]
Time+Tide
The Bulgari Serpenti collection’s new in-house automatic Lady Solotempo BVS100
The Serpenti gets a tiny, automatic, Zenith-made movement.The post The Bulgari Serpenti collection’s new in-house automatic Lady Solotempo BVS100 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hublot Scales Down the Meca-10 to 42 mm
Hublot’s latest release, the Big Bang Meca-10 10-Day Power Reserve, may at first glance resemble the chunky original, but reveals a host of significant enhancements - most notably, a more wearable 42 mm case. The new Meca-10 retains the Meccano-inspired skeletonised movement finished to colour-match the case. The calibre boasts a 10-day power reserve indicated by an uncommon crémaillère system visible at 12 o’clock made up of a linear gear engaging a circular gear. Initial thoughts Long one of the more interesting but accessible watches in Hublot’s lineup, the Meca-10 was previously available only in a 45 mm case that rendered it less-than-wearable. Hublot has refined the Meca-10 by reducing the case diameter by substantial 3 mm, making it positively compact relative to its predecessor. Not only is the case smaller, it is also thinner at just 13.9 mm high, which is slim for a watch of this type. But the signature movement architecture has been retained, resulting in a watch that has the technical appeal of the original, but one more versatile and comfortable. While it may initially appear to be yet another skeletonised Hublot, of which there are many, the Meca-10 boasts an interesting manual-winding movement with an impressive 10-day power reserve and a distinctive movement architecture. Amongst Hublot’s more exotic watches, the Meca-10 stands out as being relatively affordable, with the key word being relatively. It starts at US$23,000 in titanium (and rises ...
SJX Watches
Tudor’s Chrono Colours Continues with the Black Bay Flamingo Blue
Tudor surprised with the Black Bay Chrono Pink early last year, and it’s now done the same with the Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue”. Like last year’s pink chronograph, the Flamingo Blue is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono, but with a coloured dial in a bright turquoise. And it will similarly be made in “limited” numbers, though is it not a limited edition. Initial thoughts Bright-c0loured dials used to be a novelty for Tudor, but now such “special editions” have become a regular part of the collection. It makes them a bit more predictable and thus less interesting, but they are still intrinsically appealing. Like its predecessors, the Flamingo Blue chronograph is fun and in typical Tudor fashion, excellent value for money. I liked the pink version enough that I bought one. The combination of a bright dial and “Jubilee” bracelet is a good one; it’s clearly a modern watch but many of the elements have a retro feel. But the Flamingo Blue is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono so it is a little thick and chunky. Eventually Tudor will introduce a smaller in-house chronograph movement (the current MT5813 is based on the Breitling B01), but for now this has to do. Miami vibes According to Tudor, the Flamingo Blue chronograph is meant to evoke the “classic South Beach vibe”, a reference to the coastal Miami neighbourhood. The American inspiration is perhaps because the country is now the world’s strongest watch market. The brand goes on to exp...
Monochrome
Introducing - A new Bold & Gold Edition of the Citizen Series 8 Mechanical GMT 880
When it was presented in 2021 in Europe, the Citizen Series 8 collection made quite an impression on us, with its combination of sharp lines, bold designs and fair prices. The little sister of the high-end The Citizen range (a truly important step in the brand’s history), it marked the brand’s commitment to seriously look […]