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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Rolex Case Study: How Many Watches and How Much Money Does Rolex Make? Quill & Pad
Rolex Case Study How Many Feb 13, 2024

Rolex Case Study: How Many Watches and How Much Money Does Rolex Make?

Rolex is one of the largest, most prominent brands in the world. Unlike many other brands of this size, Rolex is a private company and so it is somewhat opaque when it comes to hard facts about what goes on behind closed doors. But some numbers can be found online, and are used to determine roughly how many watches Rolex makes a year and how much revenue is made per model.

Up Close: Piaget Polo 79 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin 222 Feb 13, 2024

Up Close: Piaget Polo 79

In an unsurprising move given recent fads, Piaget just announced the Polo 79, a yellow gold wristwatch that is essentially a remake of the original, with a slightly larger case that captures the proportions of the original and an impressively slim movement. Initial thoughts The Polo 79 is a predictable launch, coming shortly after the Vacheron Constantin 222 and IWC Ingenieur, which are of course products of Piaget’s sister companies. The new Polo sticks to the same formula, gently updating the aesthetics and installing a new movement, but largely preserving the same design. So the Polo 79 can’t be commended for creativity, but it is executed well. That said, creating a new design in the spirit of the original – namely geometric forms, slim, and sporty – would have certainly made it a more interesting watch. The Polo 79 is slightly larger than the original, but substantially thicker thanks to a self-winding movement. The original, on the other hand, was equipped with the quartz cal. 7P, an incredibly thin movement that fit the trends of the time. The increase in size means the new Polo feels like a bulked up version of the original, which was small and flat in keeping with 1980s style. To accommodate modern tastes, the Polo 79 sacrifices the thinness of the original. That is regrettable but forgivable, since it would not be possible to achieve sufficient water resistance (the Polo 79 is rated to 50 m) as well as automatic winding in the dimensions of the original c...

Hands-on – The Accomplished Vintage Design of the Raymond Weil Millesime Central Seconds Monochrome
Raymond Weil Feb 12, 2024

Hands-on – The Accomplished Vintage Design of the Raymond Weil Millesime Central Seconds

Furniture that looks old but is made today is usually classified as reproduction furniture, models that take design cues from the past but are crafted with contemporary materials. This very same phenomenon also applies to the watch world, especially for brands that don’t have reams of historical catalogues to dip into and select the next […]

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Citizen Promaster Aqualand JP2007-09W – Feb 12, 2024

The Citizen Promaster Aqualand JP2007-09W – Available Now at the Windup Watch Shop

The Citizen Promaster Aqualand JP2007-09W is now available in the Worn & Wound Shop Twenty meters down, I slowed my descent by squirting a puff of air into my buoyancy wing. I hovered just under the overhanging edge of the massive wreck. In contrast to the bright tropical sun streaming down from far above, the maw inside this upturned ship was in deep shadow. To venture inside was to go from day to night, and despite years of exploring shipwrecks, it always gave me pause to penetrate the bowels of one. There’s nothing particularly dangerous about the Hilma Hooker, and indeed it sees hundreds of divers a year, due to its proximity to shore, warm water, and relatively accessible depth. The wreck rests at the bottom of a lush coral reef, hard on the sand at just over 30 meters. Most divers are content to kick along its hull, snap some hero shots near the propeller, and marvel at the huge tarpon and barracuda that spend the daylight hours hovering in the shadows. But somehow, the yawning darkness inside beckons-hollowed-out cargo holds and engine room, long empty compartments that once purportedly held contraband drugs before the ship was seized, abandoned, and then mysteriously sunk. I hesitated, then switched on my powerful dive torch and swam into the darkness. Truth be told, I wasn’t really penetrating the Hilma Hooker to search for sunken treasure. I’d been inside this wreck many times before, in over a dozen trips to Bonaire. I had a different, more quixotic goal...

Watches and What Else: Nathan Bobinchak of Oak & Oscar on Perfecting Home Audio Worn & Wound
Rolex Feb 12, 2024

Watches and What Else: Nathan Bobinchak of Oak & Oscar on Perfecting Home Audio

This month I had the pleasure of speaking with Nathan Bobinchak, Head of Watchmaking for the independent brand Oak & Oscar. Nathan is a former journalist and TV news writer turned watchmaker, with an obsession for finding the best way to experience sound through home audio setups.  Watches  “I had my midlife crisis at 26.” Nathan delivers a dry joke as he recounts his career shift from local TV news, to his decision to go to watchmaking school. Specifically, Nathan attended The Litiz Watch Technicum, a watchmaking school outside Lancaster, PA that was founded in 2001 by Rolex. After graduating from Litiz, Nathan worked for a shop in Connecticut, eventually moving to Chicago at the beginning of 2020 and landing the job at Oak & Oscar.  “I first got into Oak & Oscar with the Jackson. The Jackson is a very cool chronograph with the Eterna 3916 movement in it. It’s a very neat, super complicated, pretty movement. It has a column wheel and flyback chrono…just very cool.” Nathan explained to me that in modern watchmaking you do a lot of the same things, but said he was fortunately certified to work on watches like the Rolex Daytona, as he has a lot of fun servicing chronographs. “I can go on all day about the art of lubricating a chronograph. That is some nerdy stuff. It’s like paint drying.” I was interested, so I asked him to expound. “The only thing that makes watches hard to work on is the user. We knock them, move them around, a movement will run grea...

Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon with In-House Micro-Rotor Movement SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Feb 12, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon with In-House Micro-Rotor Movement

To inaugurate its first-ever in-house automatic movement, Konstantin Chaykin created the Wristmon Zebra Piece Unique, a one-off based on the brand’s signature best-seller. Though it retains the familiar “rolling eye” time display, the Zebra is equipped with the K.33-3, a newly-developed automatic movement with a micro-rotor. Initial thoughts Ever since the launch of the Joker, Konstantin Chaykin has continued to iterate on the Wristmon with its amusing “rolling eye” display. While the Zebra might look like more of the same, it is notable for having an all-new, in-house movement, which replaces the ETA and Vaucher movements that powered past Wristmon models. Mr Chaykin has long hinted that a workhorse in-house movement was in the works, an endeavour that was probably accelerated by the difficulty of sourcing components from outside Russia due to the ongoing war and resulting sanctions. With the launch of the K.33-3, Konstantin Chaykin becomes one of the few independent watchmakers with its own self-winding movement, let alone an automatic calibre with a micro-rotor. The K.33-3 is basic in terms of aesthetics and certain specifications, but it is a feat to be applauded, particularly for Mr Chaykin given the relatively scarcity of specialist suppliers close to him. The Zebra is a one-off conceived to debut the new calibre, but we can expect more watches with the K.33-3 in the future. And if Mr Chaykin retains the same pricing for the new models with an in-house mov...

Seiko Brings Out Presage Inspired by Studio Ghibli SJX Watches
Seiko Brings Out Presage Inspired Feb 12, 2024

Seiko Brings Out Presage Inspired by Studio Ghibli

This year is the 40th anniversary of Hayao Miyazaki’s Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind, a 1984 Japanese anime film portraying the titular heroine’s valiant adventures in a post-apocalyptic world. To mark the occasion, anime studio Studio Ghibli and Seiko created the Presage Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind SPB437, a limited edition with an unusual combination of finishes, namely a blue enamel dial and a brushed steel case. Initial thoughts Seiko has long incorporated Japanese pop culture into its timepieces, drawing inspiration from iconic franchises such as Gundam and the Street Fighter video game. While the new Presage isn’t the first collaboration between the watch brand and Studio Ghibli, the Nausicaä edition is arguably amongst the best due to its classical, almost minimalist design. Even though it is a cartoon-inspired watch, the Nausicaä edition has a restrained aesthetic with stylish details. Particularly notable is the blue enamel dial featuring the emblem of the Princess Nausicaä and elongated indices. The simplicity of the dial design, combined with a steel case featuring an unusual aged finish completes the aesthetic that sets it apart from the typical Presage model. Its clean styling stands out even compared to the earlier Presage Castle in the Sky from 2021. The Nausicaä edition is priced at US$1,600, a modest increase over the previous Studio Ghibli model but still affordable. As is often the case with affordable Seiko limited editions, the m...

Five Analog Quartz Watches That Prove The Snobs Wrong Fratello
Feb 12, 2024

Five Analog Quartz Watches That Prove The Snobs Wrong

As watch lovers, we tend to be drawn to mechanical movements. There is something mysterious about the dozens of springs, wheels, pinions, jewels, screws, and plates that conspire to unwind a mainspring and turn its stored tension into a precise display of the time. I think the allure is in the fact that it is […] Visit Five Analog Quartz Watches That Prove The Snobs Wrong to read the full article.

Effortlessly seamless: Six watches with excellent value propositions that will fit into any watch collection Deployant
Feb 11, 2024

Effortlessly seamless: Six watches with excellent value propositions that will fit into any watch collection

We have often discussed about watches with an excellent value proposition. However, in today’s article, we are taking a step further. We are looking at well-priced timepieces that not only offer great value, but are able to fit seamlessly into any watch collection as well. While these criteria are subjective, we reckon we can takeRead More

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The World’s Largest Cruise Ship, Denzel Washington and Spike Lee Reunite, and Behind the Scenes with Atelier Wen Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Feb 10, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The World’s Largest Cruise Ship, Denzel Washington and Spike Lee Reunite, and Behind the Scenes with Atelier Wen

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Heavy Metal Costs Elon Musk Billions In what has to be one of the early candidates for headline of the year, Futurism’s The Byte imprint has a fairly wild story about how a heavy metal drummer and Tesla stockholder successfully sued the billionaire, putting a limit on what is essentially limitless wealth. The drummer, Richard Tornetta, formerly of the thrash metal band Dawn of Correction, was part of a lawsuit alleging that Musk misled investors regarding his own compensation. The suit has been tied up in courts for years, but was recently decided in Tornetta’s favor, proving once again that metal is an inherent good in a world of unencumbered wealth.  Could Adam Neumann Really Buy Back WeWork? Slate’s Alex Kirshner reports this week on a strange story involving another billionaire. Adam Neumann, the founder and former CEO of WeWork, whose story was memorably dramatized in the WeCrashed limited series starring Jared Leto as the founder, is apparently interested in buying back his old company out of bankruptcy. A bankruptcy many would argue he was responsible for – the company w...

Hands-On: The Brilliant And Affordable Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver NY0120-01EE And NY0129-58LE Fratello
Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver NY0120-01EE Feb 10, 2024

Hands-On: The Brilliant And Affordable Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver NY0120-01EE And NY0129-58LE

I wrote an article on the best Seiko watches under €500 a few weeks ago. The Japanese brand used to rule the “affordable watch” category, especially with diving watches. But with Seiko slowly moving upmarket, that territory is now open for other brands to conquer. An obvious pick is Citizen. The fellow Japanese brand offers […] Visit Hands-On: The Brilliant And Affordable Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver NY0120-01EE And NY0129-58LE to read the full article.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Varun Jindal Worn & Wound
Bremont Airco Mach 3 $2,000 Feb 9, 2024

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Varun Jindal

Editor’s Note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Varun Jindal, @vkj622 on Instagram picks three watches that cover just about every base imaginable. He has a varied collection, but left to three watches at this price point he went with two that lean heavily to the sporty end of the spectrum, and a third for those times when he needs to dress a bit more formally. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. If you were ever compelled to track my journey as a watch enthusiast and collector looking for a pattern, you’d pull your hair out. I’ll save everyone some time. There isn’t one! My humble roster comprises multiple Xetum watches, a Bulova diver I address below, and a Seiko “Pepsi” SKX from the Middle East. Spoiler Alert: It’s not the 009! As a modern-day ad man my personal style leans toward smart casual and formalwear only makes an appearance at weddings. To that note, if I ever catch anybody wearing an Apple Watch with a suit, I’ll immediately refer to them as Spy Kid (loudly and publicly). The Apple Watch is not a watch and that’s a hill I’m willing to die on! You know better. You read Worn and Wound. The timing of this feature couldn’t be better as I step into a second decade in marketing and firmly plant both feet in my mid-thirties. So without further ado, please find my handpicked triple threat around 5k below. Bremont Airco Mach 3: $2,000 Bremont first came on m...

More New Watches Celebrating the Year of the Dragon Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer uses Feb 9, 2024

More New Watches Celebrating the Year of the Dragon

This Chinese zodiac assigns an animal to represent each lunar new year, cycling through the 12 animals who according to myth came down from heaven to help the Chinese people celebrate the spring. This year is the year of the dragon, which promises to bring good fortune and strength-and, of course, year of the dragon special edition watches. Worn & Wound has already covered some of the best ones out there, but one article (and even two) isn’t enough to cover them all. The IWC Portugieser Chronograph might be the most beautiful year of the dragon watch to come out thus far. The wine colored dial with gold numerals and hands that just ooze luxury, and pays tribute to the Chinese new year on its movement, which features an intricately carved gold dragon rotor. The watch comes with a black calfskin strap, but the rubber strap in a wine that matches the dial provides a stunning complement. IWC has done a few Chinese new year models in the past-this one is far and away the best. The brand’s year of the rabbit had a similar wine and gold coloring, but lacked a two-subdial chronograph complication like the year of the dragon. 2022’s year of the tiger was a chronograph but as a three-subdial chronograph with day and date windows, the dial just feels crowded and lacks the more elegant simplicity of this year’s model. And the metal work on the dragon rotor blows away the last two years’ animal rotors. Tag Heuer uses the inverse color scheme of the special edition Portugi...

New: Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph French In Lucent Steel™ Deployant
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Feb 9, 2024

New: Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph French In Lucent Steel™

The Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph French Limited Edition In Lucent Steel™ is a tribute to the legendary race that inspired the collection. This watch combines elegance, performance and passion in a design that evokes the French tricolor. Press release with commentary in italics. New: Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph French In Lucent Steel™ TheRead More

Introducing – Jacob & Co. Stages a Fireworks Display of Art with its Mystery Tourbillon Twin Dragons Monochrome
Jacob & Co. Feb 9, 2024

Introducing – Jacob & Co. Stages a Fireworks Display of Art with its Mystery Tourbillon Twin Dragons

At the stroke of midnight, Chinese New Year kicks off with a magnificent display of fireworks and firecrackers to scare away evil spirits and welcome the Year of the Dragon. In true Jacob & Co. style, the brand releases a spectacular dragon-themed model on the eve of China’s most important festivity bristling with horological fireworks. […]

LVMH Is An Unstoppable Force That’s Unlocking The Luxury Watch’s Full Potential Fratello
Louis Vuitton Feb 9, 2024

LVMH Is An Unstoppable Force That’s Unlocking The Luxury Watch’s Full Potential

When Frédéric Arnault (29) became CEO of TAG Heuer in 2020 after joining the brand three years earlier, it demonstrated how much potential LVMH as a group saw in luxury watches. With him now appointed CEO of LVMH Watches in charge of Hublot, TAG Heuer and Zenith, LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) has shown its […] Visit LVMH Is An Unstoppable Force That’s Unlocking The Luxury Watch’s Full Potential to read the full article.