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Deployant
The Cartier Tank Française is a classic and timeless watch that exudes luxury and style. The design of the watch is sleek and elegant, with clean lines and a simple, yet sophisticated look. The case finishing is well-made, with attention to detail and high-quality materials used throughout. The bracelet is comfortable and the watch itself is weighty and substantial. Overall, the Cartier Tank Française is a luxurious and stylish watch.
Time+Tide
No matter how tasteful your watch collection, no matter how stuffed your portfolio is with blue chip stocks like no-date Subs, pre-Moon Speedys, or the perfect Cartier Tank, there’s probably a black sheep lurking somewhere. Your questionable choices. Your dark secrets. The one that’s horribly out of fashion, objectively unattractive, or just plain bizarre. Be … ContinuedThe post Unholy Grail: Why the comically dated TAG Heuer S/el is a true guilty pleasure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Glashütte-trained watchmaker presents his first in-house complication A minimalist, modern take on a moonphase complication Heavily modified and extensively hand-decorated Unitas movement Felipe Pikullik launched his eponymous brand in 2017, upon completion of his studies in Germany’s cradle of watchmaking – Glashütte. In that short period, Mr Pikullik has already introduced four different collections, … ContinuedThe post The Independedit: Felipe Pikullik Mondphase 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
There was a time when viewers didn't consciously pay that much attention to what kind of wristwatches movie characters wore. This often meant that actors wore their personal watches on set, sometimes even when it didn't suit the movie. Today placing a wristwatch in a big film is big business, which also changes the types of timepieces characters now wear.
Worn & Wound
Most of the attention focused on Zenith following their LVMH Watch Week releases has been focused on the new skeleton dial version of the Defy Skyline and a raiding of the archives in the form of a red dialed Defy. But it’s another new addition to the larger Defy camp that might prove to be the biggest hit with the widest possible audience: the Defy Skyline 36mm. This smaller and more compact Defy is decidedly unisex, and offers a classic case size with the Skyline’s more contemporary styling in a range of color options. It also forgoes the high frequency El Primero caliber found in the larger Skyline in favor of a thinner Elite series movement, a decision that proves to offer a range of benefits. The pitch for this watch is actually very simple. A smaller Skyline for a broader array of wrists, simplified. The 36mm stainless steel case features the same highly angular case construction and shares the same profile as the larger Skyline, and borrows a dial design from last year’s watch as well. The four-pointed star motif can be had in blue (the same blue as last year’s 41mm model) or pastel shades of green and pink. The dials have a metallic finish that is satin brushed, giving them a subtle sense of texture and a bit of deeper complexity. If you’d like, you can choose to have the 12 sided bezel set with diamonds. A little less under the radar, perhaps, but we support brands giving customers options. Besides the size, the key differentiator between these watch...
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Hodinkee
The art of technology
Time+Tide
Franck Muller is celebrating their 30th anniversary, and to celebrate, the brand has decided to update an icon. The Franck Muller Curvex, with its unique, domed sapphire crystal and arched case has been a signature since their inception not too long ago. Apart from a name change, the curved crystal now integrates into the bezel, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The wide-ranging scope of the Franck Muller Curvex collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
English independent watchmakers Fears and Christopher Ward have teamed up to create a new take on the jump hour complication with the Alliance 01. A collaborative effort that plays to the strengths of each brand, the Alliance 01 was made expressly for the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, a trade body for horologists in the United Kingdom. It combines the minimalist, vintage-inspired aesthetic espoused by Fears with the affordable complications of Christopher Ward. Initial thoughts I was intrigued when I learned Christopher Ward was teaming up with Fears. At first glance, the Alliance 01 looks like another version of the Brunswick, one of Fears’ signature models since the brand’s revival six years ago. But it is best described as Fears watch containing a Christopher Ward movement. It smartly combines each brand’s strengths – Fears’ vintage-inspired styling and Christopher Ward’s accessibly-priced, simple complications. Despite the resemblance to Fears’ other models, the Alliance 01 is appreciably different from anything Fears has done to date. But it still has the retro elegance typical of Fears, which actually makes the watch look simpler, despite the added complication. Though the design is elegant, the Alliance 01 is chunky, especially for a watch of this style. With dimensions comparable to a Rolex Daytona, the case height of just under 13 mm mean it will sit thickly on the wrist. If there were a bone to pick with the watch, it would be the lack...
Time+Tide
Amid the routine scheduling throughout the week, surprisingly brands are still wasting no time and presenting novelties right away at the beginning of 2023. So here are three releases you may have missed this week that you may now want to check out. Art Piece Series: Credor CBY997 Limited Edition Black lacquer dial created by … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Credor, Gerald Charles and Hermès releases finish up the week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique 38 is a reissue of their ’60s “sport chic” diver It is 1mm larger in diameter, but remains a faithful recreation Two dial colours: brushed blue and matte black The 1960s are the quintessential era of the dive watch. With new patents and inventions arising in the early 1950s, many more brands … ContinuedThe post The new Vulcain Skindiver Nautique 38 is a ’60s diver dropped into the 21st century appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Revolution
We are starting a brand new series to take a peek behind the curtain of the watch brand that has probably the most maximalist design language in the entire Swiss watch industry, Jacob & Co. Beyond the strikingly luxurious presentation of its watches, each product family is underpinned by highly technical competencies that have elevated […]
Time+Tide
Last year was a big year for Depancel, and 2023 is already getting off to a great start. The first Depancel Serie-A Allure was launched after crowdsourcing the design choices, resulting in a watch that guaranteed an adoring audience instantly. Some 500 pieces were made and sold, increasing the brand’s upwards trajectory and inspiring further … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Depancel Tangerine belongs to a tribe called zest appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Wei visits De Bethune Co-founder and Master Watchmaker Denis Flageollet’s private atelier, a place where he finds solitude to seek inspiration and conduct research for the brand’s next concept watch. Denis is probably the only independent watchmaker to have his own metal forge where he can experiment on different materials and craft his own watch […]
Deployant
Ba111od releases a new model - the Chapter 4, for less than CHF 5,000. Here is our comprehensive review of the Ba1110d Chapter 4.
Time+Tide
The new Hermes H08 case uses three materials: rose gold, titanium, and ceramic We dig the H08 collection for its sporty chic look that’s distinct to the brand This new model is approximately twice the price of the previous titanium models Within the sports watch category a lot of designs can look similar. For example, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Hermès H08 in rose gold, titanium and ceramic offers a refreshing take on sporty chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Junghans’ founder Erhard Jungans was born on January 1st, 200 years ago. The German watchmmaker was at one point the largest clock manufacturer in the world. This watch marries their classical and Bauhaus styles. Junghans is a name that seems to live in a watch fan’s collective consciousness, even if you haven’t seen many of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Junghans Meister fein Automatic Edition Erhard appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While Seiko was one of the first watchmakers in the world to launch an automatic chronograph with the ref. 6139 of 1969, the complication is not as synonymous with the brand as say, dive watches. That is due in part to the brand’s sparse offerings in terms of mid- to- high-end mechanical chronographs. But that is slowly changing. After reviving the Speedtimer two years ago, Seiko has just released the latest iteration of the model with the Prospex Speedtimer SRQ045. Benefiting from an all-black makeover, the new Speedtimer is stylish yet functional homage to the stopwatches Seiko made for the 1972 Winter Olympics in Japan. Initial thoughts I wasn’t too impressed by the new Speedtimer initially as it appeared way too similar to the regular-production model. But when I looked closer, I changed my mind. While the new Speedmaster is admittedly one of many retro-styled chronographs introduced by Seiko in the past few years, it’s still an attractive watch. The stark black-and-red livery of the new Speedtimer makes for a formidable racing chronograph; in fact it looks more like sports chronograph than the standard iterations of the model, which feel a bit flat in comparison. The attention to detail in design shows up here better than on other models. Examples of that include the scaled-down minute numerals on the dial and the pump-style pushers. I do wish, however, the seconds hand had a dash of red on its tip to complete the look. That said, the new Speedtimer retains t...
Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux has updated their Laureato with a unique case in two flavors via a pair of watches called the Absolute Light & Shade, and Absolute Light & Fire. What might sound like a fancy new vodka cocktail concoction is actually representative of two takes on a translucent case that’s been subjected to a metallisation process. The result are these Shade and Fire themed Laureato watches, rendered in clear but smokey gray and red tones. The rather complex case shape makes for an interesting experience in this material, while the opacity level means the intricate details aren’t lost in the mix. G-P’s take on the high-end integrated sports watch has always stood a bit outside the norm when it comes to these things, and it’s served all the better for it in this execution. The Laureato was launched in 1975, a year before the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and three years after the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Then and now, the watch stands in good company and while it’s managed to skirt much of the hype that once riddled the references above, it’s remained a low-key favorite of long-time enthusiasts looking to fly under the radar. What these new models lack in subtlety, however, they make up for in their avant garde execution. It’s also worth noting that a 38mm steel Laureato can still be had at retail for under $15k. The Light & Shade and Light & Fire join Girard-Perregaux’s Absolute Laureato collection, which was introduced in 2019. The Light & Shade features a ...
Worn & Wound
Vario is a Singapore-based watch brand founded in 2016. Over the years, they have launched several watches with varying aesthetics though mostly drawing on historical watches as inspiration, such as their rugged 1918 Trench model. Their most recent model, the Versa, also pulls from the past, taking its inspirations from the Streamline/Art Deco era, but mixes in a reversible design for a watch that is both dual-time and dual-faced. A first, to our recollection, in the micro-brand space, the Versa is a surprising release that manages to be clever, while also quite affordable. Apart from the functionality, the Versa is also a rare, small-scale rectangular dress offering from a micro brand. Launched in three versions, the Versa is $428 and powered by not one, but two quartz calibers. For this hands-on, we’ll be taking a look at the blue variety. $428 Hands-On with the Vario Versa Case Stainless Steel Movement 2 x Ronda Slimtech 1062 Dial Silver/Blue Lume NA Lens 2 x Flat Sapphire Strap Black Leather Water Resistance 5 ATM Dimensions 26 x 40mm Thickness 18mm Lug Width 20mm Crown 2 x Push-pull Warranty Yes Price $428 Notable Specs and Features The Versa is a watch defined by a novel and enjoyable feature: it’s essentially two watches in one. The watch head consists of two main components, a frame, and a watch module. The module is created with two slim, small quartz watches mounted back to back, dials facing out, and crowns at twelve. The module is attached to the frame via ...
Time+Tide
Recently, Robb Report listed the 20 most expensive watches sold at auction in 2022. Overall, there was more than $600 million in sales between the top three auction houses (Sotheby’s, Christie’s and Phillips), with these 20 pieces alone accounting for more than $50 million of that total. And though these numbers are quite impressive, there … ContinuedThe post Three takeaways from the most expensive watches sold at auction in 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Deployant
I am deeply saddened to share with you that Reinhard Meis has passed away on January 3, 2023. And also remember the passing of Walter Lange in 2017.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Announcing the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique 38mm, a retro-inspired diver with great dimensions. Check out photos, specs, pricing, and more.
Time+Tide
High-end, independent watchmaking has become difficult to come by in recent times, as many have begun to realise that paying huge mark-ups on mass-produced watches isn’t that cool. The problem is, however, that even when you do discover a niche independent that produces something that you like, it’s increasingly common that they already have a … ContinuedThe post The Unusual Suspects – The Daniel Roth Masters Chronograph is a masterful piece by a legendary watchmaker for under $10,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Cartier’s approach to new products is often simply to deftly reboot a bestseller after a few years or even decades. That formula was applied with great acclaim to the Tank Must and Santos-Dumont (though the Pasha revival didn’t quite meet with the same commercial success). Now Cartier is doing it for the Tank Francaise. First introduced in 1996 as the first Tank with an integrated bracelet, the Tank Francaise was a major seller for Cartier in the decade that followed. Though the model survived well into the 21st century, it remained essentially unchanged since its launch. Though visually similar to the original, new Tank Francaise is an entirely new watch, having undergone a major facelift that preserved the original outline while refining all the details. The large model in steel with an automatic movement Initial thoughts Like many of Cartier’s other entry-level models, the Tank Francaise is an appealing design at a relatively affordable price. The large automatic model in steel, for instance, retails for under US$6,000. It demonstrates how Cartier does best when it does little. The new design remains easily recognisable, even though every aspect has been revamped, ranging from the applied sticker numerals to the recessed crown. If you liked the original, you’ll probably like this one. The biggest drawback of the new Tank Francaise is simply that most of the line up is quartz, which will disappoint aficionados of mechanical watches. In fact, only one version, th...
Hodinkee
Each of the designs offer a fresh take on a familiar watch.
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