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The Swatch Group

Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.

VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Trilogy Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Trilogy If Nov 10, 2022

VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Trilogy

If you’ve been following Time+Tide closely, you’ll have noticed that Andrew has had some pretty special moments in Switzerland recently. As much as a visit to any Holy Trinity watch manufacturer is going to be a highlight, there seems to be something about the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin collection which just makes his eyes glaze … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Trilogy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Nov 10, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection

For me, Minase are one of the few brands who can beat Grand Seiko in their level of artful dials, finishing quality and ingenuity. In addition, their originality extends to their case design as well. Add in their reasonably low prices, and this Japanese brand is probably one of the best value options out there … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko debuts the manually wound Spring Drive SBGY011 in a 44GS case Time+Tide
Grand Seiko debuts Nov 9, 2022

Grand Seiko debuts the manually wound Spring Drive SBGY011 in a 44GS case

Grand Seiko is known for their colorful and textured dials born from natural muses. The Japanese philosophy of translating their surrounding nature into their craft has long distinguished their creations but, in regard to the Grand Seiko catalogue, has resulted in an ample menu of dial flavours to choose from. For the watch geek looking … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko debuts the manually wound Spring Drive SBGY011 in a 44GS case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Delma Montego is a bold chronograph with plenty of macho swagger Time+Tide
Nov 9, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Delma Montego is a bold chronograph with plenty of macho swagger

A company had to muster real tenacity to make it through the Quartz Crisis, but Delma managed to thrive instead of survive during those tough years, continuing to honour the art of traditional mechanical watchmaking. Despite this, they’re not talked about as much as they perhaps deserve to be, and so we’ve been taking a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Delma Montego is a bold chronograph with plenty of macho swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual Time+Tide
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Nov 8, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual

Collaborative limited editions are nothing new to the industry. It would seem over the last few years we see one debut every month, and the trend is still going strong. But with so many hitting the market, it is more important than ever for all parties involved to realise something that is truly fresh that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Grey Limited Edition Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Nov 7, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Grey Limited Edition

With a collection name like Big Bang, the word “discrete” usually would not come to mind. But the Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Grey and its monochromatic look provides a stealthier aesthetic within the collection.     As an industry leader in material innovation, we often see bold colours and designs from Hublot. But with … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Grey Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Automatic 40 “Chinese New Year” SJX Watches
Casio nal practice Nov 7, 2022

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Automatic 40 “Chinese New Year”

Continuing with its occasional practice of special editions to mark the Chinese Lunar New Year, IWC debuts the Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” to commemorate the Year of Water Rabbit that begins in early 2023. The limited edition retains the style of the classic Portugieser but dressed up with a riveting burgundy dial with gilt numerals and hands. Initial thoughts As an admirer of vintage timepieces, I find few watches that match the distinctive simplicity of the original Portugieser ref. 325 from 1939. So the Portugieser Automatic 40 is easy to like since it echoes the feel of the vintage original. The Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” stands out with its unusual dial. Bright red is the traditional colour of Lunar New Year, but its darker counterpart is a more appropriate hue for a dress watch. While the design still evokes the original – the gold hands and numerals give it a vintage feel – the burgundy dial is more dynamic than the conventional silver alternative, giving it a more versatile feel than the formal original. More importantly, the new Portugieser is not merely a fancy dial catered to Asian buyers. The case back reveals the in-house movement that’s one of the better automatic movements in this price segment. Lastly, the Chinese New Year edition costs US$1,000 more than the standard edition, which is an acceptable premium for the new dial as well as the commemorative rabbit rotor. The only downside for a co...

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Black and Gold Capsule collection Time+Tide
Hamilton Black Nov 7, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Black and Gold Capsule collection

Everyone loves black and gold as a colour combination, whether it’s the halls of a glamorous art deco building, a fashionable outfit, or a tastefully detailed watch. The mix of that precious yellow lustre with the ultimate darkness evokes a feeling of sultry class and luxury. Although there are plenty of watches with black and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Black and Gold Capsule collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: With a design that’s clean and serene, the Wolter Classic lets every detail breathe Time+Tide
Nov 7, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: With a design that’s clean and serene, the Wolter Classic lets every detail breathe

For the last few years, watchmaking has really been throwing off the shackles of stylistic repression across independent and large-scale manufacturers, leading to some of the most outlandish designs ever seen. Although an ever-increasing will to experiment can only be a good thing for the industry, the trend towards more eccentric shapes and “fun” colours … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: With a design that’s clean and serene, the Wolter Classic lets every detail breathe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The truth behind the Royal Oak’s construction Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has never Nov 6, 2022

VIDEO: The truth behind the Royal Oak’s construction

Despite being over 50 years old, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has never ceased to be a thought provoker. Even though the signature octagonal design has well and truly been accepted into the collective consciousness of watch design, having thousands of copies and homages, there are still so many mysteries surrounding how the physical object … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The truth behind the Royal Oak’s construction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The LeJour Brooklyn throws its hat in the ring for best affordable Datejust alternative Time+Tide
Nov 5, 2022

The LeJour Brooklyn throws its hat in the ring for best affordable Datejust alternative

LeJour is one of those rare success stories of an extinct Swiss brand being revived with a modern catalogue, and they continue to move from strength to strength with the LeJour Brooklyn collection - putting some unique twists on much-loved elements from dress and field watches. If you’ve been looking for an interesting and reliable … ContinuedThe post The LeJour Brooklyn throws its hat in the ring for best affordable Datejust alternative appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Pilot GMT Chocolate will add a few Twix up your sleeve Time+Tide
Nov 5, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Pilot GMT Chocolate will add a few Twix up your sleeve

Some say that it’s a fashion faux-pas to mix black with brown, but rules are meant to be broken. Just as steel and gold can work together if you’ve got the attitude, a two-tone colour scheme of black and brown can bring some gloriously retro vibes to your wrist, sharing in the indulgent and decadent … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Pilot GMT Chocolate will add a few Twix up your sleeve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Defy Extreme “Buddy Franklin” SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Nov 4, 2022

Zenith Introduces the Defy Extreme “Buddy Franklin”

An Australian rules football player who’s a Zenith ambassador, Lance “Buddy” Franklin recently scored his 1000th goal and is now ranked fifth amongst the all-time highest scorers of the Australian Football League (AFL). To celebrate the occasion, Mr Franklin turned to Zenith to create something special, resulting in the two-piece limited-edition Defy Extreme “Buddy Franklin”. Mr Franklin will keep one watch while the other example is going under the hammer at online auctioneer Loupe This with all proceeds going to the Australian Literacy and Numeracy Foundation, a national charity that brings education to marginalised communities. The auction is now live on Loupe This and ends on on November 7, 2022 at 2:00 am GMT-5 (New York) or 3:00 pm GMT+8 (Singapore). Registration for bidding and full lot details can be accessed here. Lance “Buddy” Franklin Initial thoughts A larger and more rugged version of the Defy 21, the Defy Extreme is a big, sporty watch with an open-worked dial – a seemingly familiar formula. But the Buddy Franklin edition is different with its two-tone case and red dial. It moves away from the typical design of such watches and instead has a more restrained aesthetic that helps tame the 45 mm case size. The only downside of the watch is the fact that only one will be publicly available, and at an auction rather than for a fixed priced. But with the estimate being the retail price of the regular production model, the Buddy Franklin editio...

Making a Mark: Understanding the 1931 Alphabet Typeface by Jaeger Le-Coultre SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre JLC has been exploring Nov 4, 2022

Making a Mark: Understanding the 1931 Alphabet Typeface by Jaeger Le-Coultre

Watchmakers have long embarked on collaborations with artists, from Geneva jeweller Gilbert Albert and his Brâncuşi-inspired designs for Patek Philippe to the Zen creations by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando for Bulgari. Such collaborations are amongst the best ways for a watch brand to broaden its appeal. Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has been exploring such relationships with “Made of Makers”, an initiative made up of collaborations with varied designers and artisans from other disciplines, including mixologist Matthias Giroud and the Michelin-starred pastry chef Nina Métayer. Its latest partnership is with Spanish typographer and illustrator Alex Trochut, who has penned a font specifically for the brand, the 1931 Alphabet. Alex Trochut Initial thoughts On its face, this might sound like the typical artistic collaboration embarked upon by a watchmaker. But this has a subtle twist in engaging with watch enthusiasts as it’s all about personalisation of the watch.  The 1931 Alphabet can transform a stock Reverso into something unique and something that would not be out of place Jay Gatsby’s wrist. It’s a prime example of typography as a decorative art in watchmaking. The attention to detail in the font design is evident in the kerning of the letters, which includes the use of negative space to create balance.  The 1931 Alphabet Given this typeface’s strikingly bold design, it is a perfect pair for the Reverso. Since its introduction in 1931, the model has evolve...