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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42 mm SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Mar 21, 2024

Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42 mm

Having marked the 70th anniversary of its signature dive watch last year, Blancpain is now adding the Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42 mm to the lineup. Maintaining the vintage-inspired style of its larger sibling, the new Fifty Fathoms has a more compact, 42 mm case that’s available in either red gold or titanium – both entirely brushed – a size that was first seen on the 70th Anniversary Act 1 limited edition. Initial thoughts The overall appearance of the new Fifty Fathoms stays close to the longstanding ref. 5015, but in a smaller package. While its predecessor was a chunky 45 mm, the latest model is 42 mm. It retains almost exactly the same design, and even the same cal. 1315 inside (now visible through a display back), but in a more wearable case. If you liked the earlier version but found it too big, then the appeal of the 42 mm model is clear. More broadly, the CHF15,000-ish price point of the Fifty Fathoms is competitive given the build quality. The case and dial execution are good, while the movement is one of the more sophisticated amongst sports watches in this price range. New packaging The new Fifty Fathoms is essentially a compact version of the 45 mm model, which was launched in 2007, making it one of the longest tenured models in the catalogue. The 42 mm version preserves the familiar design, but in a smaller format. So the dial retains the Arabic numerals at the quarters, sword hands, and the italic model name above six. Because of the reduced size, th...

Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Paper Dials from “The Citizen” Collection Worn & Wound
Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Mar 20, 2024

Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Paper Dials from “The Citizen” Collection

As I’ve gotten more and more involved in the watch world over the years, something that’s become a great interest to me is accessible craft in watchmaking. We all know that you can spend five figures (or more) on a watch and get a movement with meticulously hand finished and polished bevels, for instance, but what I’m really drawn to is the brands that are able to do impressive things the old fashioned way at more accessible price points. Think of anOrdain’s enamel dials, for instance, or the handmade silver cases from James Lamb. We frequently look to smaller operations for this kind of work, but large brands are capable of surprising us with unusual craft techniques as well, and we were reminded of that a few weeks with the introduction of a pair of new watches by Citizen using their impressive Washi paper dials.  These watches fall into The Citizen collection from Citizen, one of my favorite names for a collection, even as it drives my editor brain kind of insane. Yes, the watches are called “The Citizen” in the same way the iconic diver made by Rolex is the “Submariner.” I’ll be honest, I don’t know the origin of the use of the definite article in the collection’s name, or anything about the decision to name these watches after the brand itself. Frankly, I don’t want to know, because I like the story I’ve created in my head of Citizen creating a collection that they feel perfectly defines their brand to such a degree that you could call it Th...

Hot Take: The Aquastar Model 60 Greenwich Edition Fratello
Mar 20, 2024

Hot Take: The Aquastar Model 60 Greenwich Edition

Last year, Aquastar released a modern interpretation of one of its earliest watches, the Model 60. The no-nonsense black dial paired with a utile skin-diver case made it an instant hit. Now a new dial color joins the fray. The limited-production Greenwich Edition has a dark green dial that works well with the design. It […] Visit Hot Take: The Aquastar Model 60 Greenwich Edition to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Glorious Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium - A Watch That Plays Clever Mind Games Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium - Mar 20, 2024

Hands-On With The Glorious Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium - A Watch That Plays Clever Mind Games

If you are not a fan of titanium watches, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport will confirm the number-one issue you might have with them. Straight out of the box, this new Chronomaster Sport feels super lightweight. If you want a watch to have some substantial heft, this is not the watch for you. But that’s the […] Visit Hands-On With The Glorious Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium - A Watch That Plays Clever Mind Games to read the full article.

Breaking News: Michael Schumacher’s AP Royal Oak, F.P. Journe Vagabondage at Christie’s SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Mar 20, 2024

Breaking News: Michael Schumacher’s AP Royal Oak, F.P. Journe Vagabondage at Christie’s

The spring sale season that kicks off in Geneva come mid May will no doubt include many top lots across the three major auction houses, but Christie’s will claim two of the most compelling watches to go on the block: an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph and F.P. Journe Vagabondage, both unique pieces made for Michael Schumacher. Gifts from longtime Scuderia Ferrari manager Jean Todt, each watch features a custom dial commemorating Mr Schumacher’s unprecedented streak of Formula 1 world championships, as well as commemorative engraving on the back. The pair come straight from the Schumacher collection, consigned by his family along with a handful of other watches. Mr Schumacher’s watches will be offered at Christie’s Rare Watches auction taking place on May 13, 2024 in Geneva. Initial thoughts I follow F1 casually and I usually don’t like watches with emblems on the dial – the Vagabondage has 11 logos on the hour scale – but these two watches are exceptionally desirable in my eyes, particularly the Vagabondage, which is incredible for its rarity and provenance. The watches capture Mr Schumacher’s remarkable racing career – his seven world championships tie him with Lewis Hamilton as the all-time record holders – evoking the glamour and prestige of Formula 1 but also the longstanding association between watchmakers and auto racing that arguably started with sports chronographs like the Daytona and Carrera in the 1960s. At the same time, the watches il...

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Guide Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Mar 19, 2024

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Guide

The TAG Heuer Carrera is widely regarded as one of the OGs of racing-inspired chronograph wristwatches, and today - decades after both the model and the deadly road race that gave it its name appeared to have been permanently discontinued - it claims a spot atop the leaderboard in the Swiss watchmaker's modern collection. Here's how the Carrera raced to worldwide acclaim, upgraded its engines along the way, and roared back from the Quartz Crisis to engage and energize a new generation of watch enthusiasts. The company we now know as TAG Heuer traces its history to 1860 and its founder Edouard Heuer; “TAG” would be added to the family business’s name in 1985, when the Techniques d’Avant Garde (TAG) Group obtained a majority share. From its beginnings, the company placed an emphasis on sports timing and on optimizing the precision of the hand-held and dashboard-mounted chronograph timepieces that were its specialty. Edouard Heuer’s most significant contribution to timekeeping was the oscillating pinion, patented in 1887. This device, which simplified the construction of chronograph calibers by decoupling the stopwatch mechanism from the timekeeping function, is still used commonly in movements today. In 1911, Heuer developed what is regarded as the first dashboard chronograph for cars and aircraft, the “Time of Trip,” and in 1914 released its first wrist-mounted chronograph (which, like many of its contemporaries, was a repurposed pocket watch with its sin...

Introducing – The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Skeleton X Label Noir Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Skeleton X Label Mar 19, 2024

Introducing – The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Skeleton X Label Noir

On one side is Maurice Lacroix, a serious brand with a strong position in the accessible luxury watch segment, but also some serious watchmaking skills with its Masterpiece range. On the other side is Label Noir, a Geneva-based customisation atelier in operation since 2011, with an exciting portfolio – which also happens to include a […]

NASA Astronaut General Tom P. Stafford Passes Away At Age 93 Fratello
Mar 19, 2024

NASA Astronaut General Tom P. Stafford Passes Away At Age 93

Yesterday, NASA astronaut Thomas P. Stafford (September 17th, 1930 – March 18th, 2024) passed away at age 93. Stafford was one of the 24 astronauts who flew to the Moon. Before the Apollo program, he was part of the Gemini 6A and Gemini 9A missions. Apollo 10 “Snoopy” Tom Stafford was the commander of the […] Visit NASA Astronaut General Tom P. Stafford Passes Away At Age 93 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Paris 2024 Edition Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Paris Mar 19, 2024

Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Paris 2024 Edition

Last July, Omega decided it was time to introduce the watch for the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris. Ben wrote about the new Seamaster Diver 300M Paris 2024 edition here. The combination of the white dial and Moonshine Gold bezel insert struck a chord with me, but it wasn’t until a few months later when […] Visit Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Paris 2024 Edition to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Wearing Vintage Watches On Airplanes Fratello
Mar 19, 2024

Fratello On Air: Wearing Vintage Watches On Airplanes

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we discuss flying on airplanes with our vintage watches and why we avoid it. We also cover several other watch-related topics before and after the main subject. Enjoy the show! Flying on airplanes may be a normal and safe activity, but how does it affect […] Visit Fratello On Air: Wearing Vintage Watches On Airplanes to read the full article.

Introducing: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph SSH151, SSH153, SSH155, And Limited SSH156 Fratello
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Mar 19, 2024

Introducing: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph SSH151, SSH153, SSH155, And Limited SSH156

As you may have read on Fratello before, Seiko is celebrating the 100th anniversary of having this brand name on its watches’ dials this year. The house is introducing limited anniversary editions of new models throughout the year to commemorate this. Today, the Astron line sees a big new release, including an anniversary LE. These […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph SSH151, SSH153, SSH155, And Limited SSH156 to read the full article.

Renaud Tixier Debuts with the Monday Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Mar 19, 2024

Renaud Tixier Debuts with the Monday Micro-Rotor

Already collaborators on several projects, Dominique Renaud, one of the founders of Renaud & Papi, and Julien Tixier, a young watchmaker and constructor, have established Renaud Tixier, a brand backed by investors. The inaugural creation of Renaud Tixier is Monday, a time-only watch with an automatic movement sporting a novel micro-rotor. Conceived to realise Mr Renaud’s many concepts and inventions, Renaud Tixier also aims to blend the styles of the two watchmakers. Each of the namesake founders comes from a different generation of watchmaking – pre- and post-Quartz Crisis – but the duo enjoy a shared philosophy that have made their past projects a success, something they are hoping to replicate with Renaud Tixier. Initial thoughts On a macro level, the Renaud Tixier and its first watch are noteworthy for a few reasons. One of its main points of appeal, at least initially, is the name, specifically Dominique Renaud. Even though he departed Renaud & Papi (APRP) over 20 years ago, his name still carries weight, particularly since many alumni of APRP, Anthony de Haas of Lange and Carole Forestier of TAG Heuer for instance, speak well of him. The name will certainly help sell the watch, particularly in countries with a strong reverence for creators and history, like Japan for example. And the fact that it’s a micro-rotor is noteworthy. Though relatively common in high-end watchmaking, micro-rotors are rare amongst independent watchmakers. The most prominent indie mak...

Photo Report: Traveling Through Zürich and Schaffhausen with IWC Worn & Wound
IWC Just Mar 18, 2024

Photo Report: Traveling Through Zürich and Schaffhausen with IWC

Just a few weeks ago I was graciously invited to fly to Switzerland to get a first glimpse of some of the new novelties this year from IWC. Now obviously I can’t speak to what I saw until the embargo lifts during Watches & Wonders, but the fun didn’t stop there. We had several exciting excursions while we were in both Zürich and Schaffhausen, and of course I had my camera with me to capture some snaps along the way. I felt like these images shouldn’t just live on my iPhone just for me, and maybe there might be someone out there who is interested in visiting either city and this might help push them to buy those plane tickets and get on over there! The Limmat River running through the Old Town Zürich Now some might think that the first stop on a press trip by a major luxury watch brand would be to see watches but you would be wrong. IWC knew how to kick off this tour just right by taking us straight to a chocolate factory. And not just any chocolate factory, but the home of Lindt Chocolate! Home to Switzerland’s largest chocolate museum, it was truly remarkable and I had a blast learning how this chocolate that I love so much is made. If you ever find yourself in Zürich this is a must stop. And yes, you get to try as much chocolate as you’d like! A fountain of chocolate Beautiful architecture inside A closer look at the chocolate fountain! Easter ready Minimalist design throughout the building Candy for all! Welcoming staff throughout With bellies full of choco...

Revolution and Sinn Team Up for a First of its Kind 155 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Sinn Team Up Mar 18, 2024

Revolution and Sinn Team Up for a First of its Kind 155 Chronograph

Our friends at Revolution have launched their second limited edition collaboration with Sinn, following up on 2019’s 155 Bundeswehr “Dark Star,” a collaborative effort with both The Rake and Revolution publications. Here we have another 155, this time in a notably darker, and tougher configuration, but still paying tribute to the very roots of the German watch brand. The 155 chronograph, for many Sinn collectors, represents the true beginnings of the brand, and this release captures that spirit while adding some of the contemporary twists you’d expect from a collaboration partner like Revolution. It’s all very enthusiast focused, and should really speak to hardcore Sinn fans.  Before we get into the details on the new release, an introduction to the 155 is probably in order to fully contextualize the limited edition. Beginning in 1967, the 155 Bundeswehr chronograph was made exclusively for the West German Federal Defense Force. Beginning in the 1980s, Helmut Sinn began selling issued Bundeswehr watches that had been decommissioned under his own brand name. This practice helped to bolster Sinn’s reputation in watch communities that care about military provenance, tool watch history, and classic design, and laid the groundwork for what Sinn would come to represent to many, makers of no-nonsense, practical tools with true military bona fides. The 155 itself is a ruthlessly simple affair, with a two register chronograph layout and bi-directional 60 minute bezel d...

The Two-Tone Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80 Took Me By Surprise On A Monday Morning Fratello
Longines Spirit […] Visit Mar 18, 2024

The Two-Tone Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80 Took Me By Surprise On A Monday Morning

Am I being overly dramatic when I think of the word “fratricide” after seeing the two-tone Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80? Well, first, this is Fratello, so it is within the theme. And then there’s the watch. Certina’s GMT took me by surprise and made me worry about its “big brother,” the Longines Spirit […] Visit The Two-Tone Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80 Took Me By Surprise On A Monday Morning to read the full article.

Citizen Marks Centenary with Pocket Watch and New Calibre SJX Watches
Citizen Marks Centenary Mar 18, 2024

Citizen Marks Centenary with Pocket Watch and New Calibre

Twenty twenty-four marks the 100th anniversary of the first-ever Citizen watch – a pocket watch powered by the hand-wound cal. 16. To celebrate the centenary, Citizen looks towards the next century with an all-new calibre making its debut in the 100th Anniversary of the First Citizen Watch Special Limited Edition, a pocket watch with a pleasing vintage aesthetic but one that’s entirely modern in materials and manufacturing. Initial thoughts Pocket watches are uncommon today, which is perhaps why they are difficult to get right in terms of look and feel. Contemporary pocket watches often try to replicate the look and feel of their vintage counterparts, but usually end up seeming artificial and lacking in authenticity. As a result, the Citizen anniversary pocket watch is certainly an interesting proposition.  The Citizen cal. 0270 At first sight, the watch is convincingly vintage in appearance. It is evidently carefully designed, with classical styling on both sides and well-chosen details in the movement, which lends it a genuine sense of timelessness. The dial design is evocative of railway pocket watches (which Citizen did supply to Japanese railway companies), while the movement has the elegant bridges and proportions characteristics of old-school calibres. But on closer examination, many details in the dial and case reveal themselves to be modern, like the fact that the case is titanium or the balance wheel has Gyromax-style regulating weights. Even the seemingly a...

The Roundup: Vintage Rolex, New Knives, and Watch Rolls, Oh My! Worn & Wound
Citizen Mar 17, 2024

The Roundup: Vintage Rolex, New Knives, and Watch Rolls, Oh My!

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week we get a real treat by checking out the vintage Rolex drop in the Shop. We then swing the other way and revisit a cult classic value proposition. Some new knives from The James Brand and excellent accessories from Convoy Co round out our non-watch picks, and we wrap things up with a Deal of the Week from Citizen. There’s something for everyone here – let’s get into it! The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for b...

Five Of The Best Watches At The Original Miami Beach Antique Show 2024 Fratello
Mar 17, 2024

Five Of The Best Watches At The Original Miami Beach Antique Show 2024

Most major watch shows center around brands and new releases, leaving the pre-owned and vintage side of the industry to run smaller, typically localized gatherings. However, a few shows break this rule, with one, the Original Miami Beach Antique Show, taking place in the colossal Miami Beach Convention Center. Held every January, the show attracts […] Visit Five Of The Best Watches At The Original Miami Beach Antique Show 2024 to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - White Dial Vs. Black Dial Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - White Mar 17, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - White Dial Vs. Black Dial

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. It’s time to get that extra-large coffee this morning because we have a special showdown for you! It is the battle of the Moonwatches. If you are a regular Fratello reader, you could have seen this one coming from a mile away. Today, Jorg will defend the recently introduced […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - White Dial Vs. Black Dial to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Tactile Turn’s First Flashlight, a Green Dialed Vulcain Chronograph, and the Final Trailer for 3 Body Problem Arrives Worn & Wound
Vulcain Chronograph Mar 16, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Tactile Turn’s First Flashlight, a Green Dialed Vulcain Chronograph, and the Final Trailer for 3 Body Problem Arrives

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com A New Dial Color for Vulcain’s Vintage Inspired Chronograph  Vulcain’s Chronograph 1970s really nails a very specific time in watchmaking history, with a classic two register layout and sizing that evokes classic vintage pieces (it’s 38mm in diameter and about 12mm tall). Now, in addition to silver, blue, black, and salmon dials, Vulcain has just launched a new model in a verdant green with silver subdials. It’s undeniably nice looking, and gives a vintage inspired chrono just a little taste of something contemporary with a color that’s very much of the moment. They’re available to order now via Vulcain’s website, with a retail price set at CHF 2,500. More information here. WorldTempus on the “Women in Watchmaking” Trope An editorial with a provocative title in WorldTempus caught our attention this week: “Can we please stop talking about women in watchmaking?” Writer Sophie Furley takes a position in the piece that we tend to follow here at Worn & Wound, which is one that posits all experts in the field should be treated exactly the same, and that the best way to ...