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The Swatch Group

Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.

Recommended Reading: The In-Depth Guide to the F. P. Journe Octa Chronographe SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s most intriguing offerings Feb 5, 2022

Recommended Reading: The In-Depth Guide to the F. P. Journe Octa Chronographe

A short-lived model in production for just a few years – it was replaced by the Centigraphe in 2008 – the Octa Chronographe was nevertheless one of F.P. Journe’s most intriguing offerings in technical terms. While based on the standard cal. 1300 found in the simpler Octa models, the chronograph movement utilised a stopwatch mechanism integrated into the base plate under the dial. In other words, the chronograph was integrated but located where a modular setup would typically be. As a result the Chronographe remained the same height as less complex Octa models (though that thinness would cause a variety of problems with the functionality, especially with the date). Its technical details – which vary across generations – are just one aspect of the watch detailed in A Collector’s Guide for the Octa Chronographe by F. P. Journe by Shawn Mehta, founder of independent watchmaking merchant Watch4Moi. (At the same time it’s worth revisiting the guide to the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite that I wrote in 2016, making it one of the first-ever Journe “guides”.) Octa Chronographe no. 001 that sold at Phillips in November last year Though the first in numerical sequence, it was not actually the first example produced as indicated by its details Unlike many recent “guides” that rely on plagiarisation or secondary sources, Mr Mehta’s article cite facts and figures from F.P. Journe itself. For instance, he tells us that only 35 examples of the Octa Ch...

Unpacking the quiet brilliance of Marty’s TAG Heuer in Ozark Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Feb 4, 2022

Unpacking the quiet brilliance of Marty’s TAG Heuer in Ozark

On the surface, Marty Byrde is an unlikely modern hero.  The first series of the Netflix show Ozark opens to reveal a mild-mannered financial adviser stuck in the doldrums of a strained marriage with an adulterous wife.  From there, over the next four seasons, things plummet downhill faster than an Olympic skier. When it turns … ContinuedThe post Unpacking the quiet brilliance of Marty’s TAG Heuer in Ozark appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega at the Winter Olympics and a special release for MB&F; Time+Tide
Omega Feb 4, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega at the Winter Olympics and a special release for MB&F;

It’s the Winter Olympics, an event that once again raises baffling questions for those of us who haven’t grown up in Alpine regions. Why is that skier carrying an assault rifle? What are those curling guys doing with little brooms? And what in God’s good name is the sport of monobob? But then, of course, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega at the Winter Olympics and a special release for MB&F; appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Time+Tide is now the place to buy Hamilton watches in Australia. Hallelujah! Time+Tide
Hamilton watches Feb 4, 2022

Time+Tide is now the place to buy Hamilton watches in Australia. Hallelujah!

Anyone that lives in Australia and loves watches knows what I’m about to say is 100 per cent true. Not having Hamilton readily available in our country, for YEARS, has been very, very annoying. As our fellow watch media – looking squarely at you Hodinkee, who seem to make a sport of it – have … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide is now the place to buy Hamilton watches in Australia. Hallelujah! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono: Run, Don’t Walk, It’s The Best Value Swiss Made Automatic Chronograph Of The Year Quill & Pad
Feb 3, 2022

Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono: Run, Don’t Walk, It’s The Best Value Swiss Made Automatic Chronograph Of The Year

Every time Ian Skellern writes the words “relatively affordable” here on Quill & Pad, he braces himself for the stream of comments reminding him that he must live in an alternative reality to most of the world. So he doesn't describe the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono as relatively affordable (though compared to most of the watches we review on Quill & Pad he thinks it well merits that description), but he does think that it’s fantastic value and the bargain of the year. And here he explains why.

Why the new Richard Mille RM 35-03 is the perfect match for Rafael Nadal Time+Tide
Richard Mille RM 35-03 Feb 3, 2022

Why the new Richard Mille RM 35-03 is the perfect match for Rafael Nadal

Brand ambassadors and partnerships are abundant in the watch industry, but the most successful pairings are born from a true tie-in to the timepiece and its functionality. Since 2010, Rafael Nadal has had a strong partnership with Richard Mille. While Nadal is known to sport RM 27 collection pieces during competitive play, the RM 35 … ContinuedThe post Why the new Richard Mille RM 35-03 is the perfect match for Rafael Nadal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

REC Watches recycle parts from iconic motorbikes to create the TTT Escape and TTT Icon1000 Time+Tide
Feb 3, 2022

REC Watches recycle parts from iconic motorbikes to create the TTT Escape and TTT Icon1000

Danish microbrand REC Watches has been revving up fans of motoring and horology since 2014, creating unique (and we mean truly unique) timepieces that celebrate performance motoring, with watches crafted from actual parts recycled from historic vehicles. No two pieces are alike, and their watches have paid tribute to cars including the Mini Cooper, Shelby … ContinuedThe post REC Watches recycle parts from iconic motorbikes to create the TTT Escape and TTT Icon1000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: G-Shock’s next evolution of the CasiOak and more Time+Tide
Casio ak Feb 3, 2022

VIDEO: G-Shock’s next evolution of the CasiOak and more

Casio’s G-Shock are one of the most quietly prolific brands out there. The catalogue is massive, and there’s no point in making a big deal out of a single release when so many hits come flying one after the other. That said, their lack of pushy advertising does mean that the cult of G-Shock can … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: G-Shock’s next evolution of the CasiOak and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Montblanc Flexes With The New Meisterstück Calligraphy Solitaire Burgundy Quill & Pad
Montblanc Flexes Feb 2, 2022

Montblanc Flexes With The New Meisterstück Calligraphy Solitaire Burgundy

A fountain pen’s nib is the source of its magic. Yes, there are many beautiful pens out there but without a great nib a pretty pen is just a pretty pen. A good pen point can transform an ordinary writing experience into a memorable melding of mind and hand. Montblanc’s new Meisterstück Calligraphy Solitaire Burgundy Lacquer is a desirable pen by any measure, not the least of which is contributed to by its 18-karat gold flexible nib.

ZACH’S MAILBAG: The best “adventure” watches under $1,000 Time+Tide
Feb 2, 2022

ZACH’S MAILBAG: The best “adventure” watches under $1,000

Editor’s Note: Often we receive questions via email and social media from our readers, and we always strive to respond to each and every one. But we recognise that many of you, even if you have yet to reach out, may be pondering the same questions. In this week’s mailbag, we  consider some of the … ContinuedThe post ZACH’S MAILBAG: The best “adventure” watches under $1,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Doxa 600T collection remixes the 1980s with a fresh new vibe Time+Tide
Doxa 600T collection remixes Feb 2, 2022

VIDEO: The Doxa 600T collection remixes the 1980s with a fresh new vibe

The Doxa 600T collection represents an exciting change of pace for the brand. Instead of the tonneau-cased pieces that are so redolent of the 1970s, this collection skips forward to the ’80s. This was a decade that proved significant for Doxa as it was bought by the Aubry Freres Company, a takeover that resulted in … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Doxa 600T collection remixes the 1980s with a fresh new vibe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

An open letter to Bulgari: Please consider making this version of the Serpenti, and I’ll buy one Time+Tide
Bulgari Please consider making Feb 1, 2022

An open letter to Bulgari: Please consider making this version of the Serpenti, and I’ll buy one

Editor’s note: When I was in Dubai recently for Dubai Watch Week, I had the chance to try on a Bulgari Serpenti in rose gold and white ceramic. The owner of the watch, Eleonor of @theiofj was more than happy to oblige, and I swapped her for my 15500 Royal Oak. It wasn’t just for … ContinuedThe post An open letter to Bulgari: Please consider making this version of the Serpenti, and I’ll buy one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HYT Returns with the Hastroid SJX Watches
Montblanc Mr Cerrato has applied Feb 1, 2022

HYT Returns with the Hastroid

Having been the first – and still the only – watchmaker to use liquid to display the time, HYT went bust last year, having struggled for several years after its 2012 debut. But now the brand is making a comeback with Davide Cerrato at the helm. The inaugural watch of the reborn HYT is the Hastroid Green Nebula that is dressed in brand’s familiar livery of lime green and black. Best known for being the design chief at first Tudor and then Montblanc, Mr Cerrato has applied his brand of Italian aesthetics to HYT, preserving its signature style while streamlining and downsizing the watches. Still large, but slightly thinner and definitely sleeker, the Hastroid continues the familiar formula found on most previous HYT watches – hours are indicated by a retrograde fluid indicator within a glass tube, while two large bellows are responsible for pumping the fluid indicator back and forth. Initial thoughts I was sceptical when I first heard that HYT was back from the dead, but knowing that Mr Cerrato is leading the charge certainly increases the odds of success. He did a stellar job shaping the visual identities of both Tudor and Montblanc – both of which still have the same house style today – and has certainly refined the HYT wristwatch while retaining its familiar feel. The Having seen a resin mockup of the Hastroid, I can attest to the fact that the watch is more compact and slightly more wearable than a first-generation HYT. At the same time, Mr Cerrato has given...

Anniversary Wine Suggestions For 2022: What To Drink When The Year Is More Important Than The Price Quill & Pad
Jan 31, 2022

Anniversary Wine Suggestions For 2022: What To Drink When The Year Is More Important Than The Price

It never fails: pull out a bottle of wine from a friend or family member’s birth year and the entire event becomes just that little bit more special. Of course, the older we get the harder that becomes, but it is far from impossible. And, of course, if you were so fortunate as to have arrived on earth during a great “vintage,” so much the better. Here, Ken Gargett makes some wine recommendations for celebrating a big anniversary or birthday in 2022.

MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price Time+Tide
Jan 31, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price

There is a reason why many microbrands choose a diver as their first offering. It’s a category of watches that is not only robust but offers the brand a platform to say a lot through its design. From the bezel to the case, nothing is off limits when it comes to creating a diver. Thus, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulgari Debuts the Smallest Movement of 21st Century SJX Watches
Bulgari Debuts Jan 31, 2022

Bulgari Debuts the Smallest Movement of 21st Century

Bulgari is starting the year big with something impressively tiny – the hand-wind BVL 100 Piccolissimo that’s the smallest mechanical movement of the 21st century at just 12.3 mm wide and 2.5 mm tall. The minuscule movement makes it debut in the latest version of Bulgari’s iconic snake-bangle wristwatch – it is one o the most iconic jewellery watches of all time in fact – the Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery Secret Watch. While many versions of the Serpenti bracelet have been equipped with quartz movements in recent years, the BVL 100 means the watch within the snake’s head is once again mechanical, just like the originals of the 1950s. The tiny barrel bridge of the BVL 100 Initial thoughts While the Serpenti Misteriosi is a high-jewellery watch that has little practical appeal for most watch collectors, it’s difficult to easy to appreciate watch for its combination of design, craft, and of course the technical achievement of the BVL100. Amusingly enough, the Serpenti Misteriosi is, technically speaking, an integrated-bracelet watch with a reversible dial – two features highly coveted in the watch world – though the lavish jewels and lacquer disguises most of its horological qualities, which also illustrates the power of the iconic design. The forked tongue is a trigger to open the snake’s head, revealing the time below But over-the-top style is only useful for a specific audience – and specific occasions – so for the rest of us, there’s the ...

Happy Chinese New Year Of The Tiger 2022 With 8 Auspicious Big Cats Featuring On Wristwatches Quill & Pad
Zodiac often using rare artistic Jan 30, 2022

Happy Chinese New Year Of The Tiger 2022 With 8 Auspicious Big Cats Featuring On Wristwatches

It is now a tradition for watchmakers to observe Chinese New Year by creating beautiful, decorative, limited edition timepieces adorned with symbolic depictions of the appropriate sign of the Chinese zodiac – often using rare, artistic techniques paying tribute to the eastern calendar. The Year of the Tiger – which is the third animal in the 12-year zodiac cycle – begins on February 1, 2022. Elizabeth Doerr shares eight auspicious examples here.

HANDS ON: Clean and serene, the new TAG Heuer Autavia COSC GMT carries no excess baggage Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Autavia COSC GMT carries Jan 30, 2022

HANDS ON: Clean and serene, the new TAG Heuer Autavia COSC GMT carries no excess baggage

It’s no secret at Time+Tide that I am a bit of a GMT fiend. There is just something about that complication that gets my horological juices flowing. Which means when a brand decides to release a GMT, I’m all over it. Will it have a classic design? How will the lume be? How will the … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Clean and serene, the new TAG Heuer Autavia COSC GMT carries no excess baggage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.