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Review of the new Breguet Military Type 20 and Civilian Type XX
Breguet Military Type 20 and Civilian Type XX watches are reviewed, highlighting their craftsmanship, movement, and distinct features.
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768 articles · 55 videos found · page 7 of 28
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Wiki · Guide
Tourbillon
Breguet's 1801 rotating-cage escapement, explained.
Wiki · Guide
Hairspring
The coiled spring that controls the balance wheel; Huygens 1675, Breguet overcoil 1795.
Wiki · Guide
Daniel Roth
Designer behind modern Breguet 1973-89 and the eponymous Daniel Roth brand with its double-ellipse case.
Wiki · Guide
Breguet Numerals
The cursive italic Arabic numerals designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet ~1790; canonical haute-horlogerie dress watch numeral.
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Time+Tide
The new Breguet Type XX and Type 20 move the needle forward while being more faithful to the OGs than ever
When you think of Breguet watches, the first word that comes to mind is probably guilloché. The maison is widely celebrated for their engine-turned dials, truly decorated by hand in a world where many other brands have moved towards stamping them. But Breguet is by no means one-dimensional. Sure, the brand’s namesake makes you think … ContinuedThe post The new Breguet Type XX and Type 20 move the needle forward while being more faithful to the OGs than ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Breguet Type XX (and the Type 20!) are Back in a Pair of Vintage Inspired New References
When it comes to pilot chronographs, particularly military inspired pilot chronographs, the Type XX sits at the top of a very large pile of well loved and highly collectible watches. Most often associated with Breguet, the Type XX is analogous to the “Dirty Dozen” W.W.W. field watches produced by a number of manufacturers in the WWII years on a contract basis for the British Ministry of Defense. In the case of the Type XX, it was the French military who contracted watchmakers to create a high spec chronograph. The requirements were specific and rigid: black dials, chrono registers at 3:00 and 9:00, the capability to time events up to 30 minutes, a 38mm case, and a 12 hour bezel among them. Mathey-Tissot and Dodane were among the brands charged with manufacturing these watches along with Breguet. Over the years, the style of this simple pilot’s chronograph has influenced countless other brands and has been straight up copied by many, and along the way it became a staple of the modern Breguet lineup. That is, until the contemporary Type XX was discontinued a few years ago. Now, the Type XX is back in a fairly big way, in two different versions with two different names that I promise are not confusing at all. Announced yesterday, Breguet has unveiled an all new Type XX (the civilian version) and a Type 20 (the military version). References 2067 and 2057, respectively, both carry aesthetic elements from classic versions of the watch, but have some subtle (and also some...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067
Following the launch of a revamped flagship perpetual calendar, Breguet now reboots its famous pilot’s chronograph with the Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067. Descended from the military-issue watches introduced in the 1950s, the new Type XX makes its debut with a pair of watches – one military inspired and the other civilian – that are identical on a fundamental level but distinctly different in look and feel. Significant enhancements have been introduced with the latest-generation Type XX, including more sophisticated case finishing, but most notable is the newly-developed flyback chronograph movement with an extended power reserve and high-frequency, 5 Hz escapement. (The new models are referred to as Type XX, as are vintage pilot’s chronographs sold to the civilian market. Vintage military-issue chronographs are known as Type 20, as is historical practice.) The ref. 2067 modelled on the civilian Type XX of the 1960s Initial thoughts After introducing the Type XX and Type XXI, Breguet has returned back to the Type XX model name with a new watch that retains many of the distinctive design elements that define the Type XX, while incorporating significant improvements to the design, details, and of course movement. At 42 mm, the new Type XX is a large watch, but sized correctly for a pilot’s chronograph. The lugs are also relatively short so the watch sits well on the wrist. And enthusiasts will appreciate the fact that the case size corresponds to the movement....
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Breguet x Frieze exhibition is back in NYC until May 21
On Wednesday afternoon in New York City, I returned to The Shed at Hudson Yards to check out the new Frieze exhibition of which Breguet is a proud sponsor. With eight floors hosting phenomenal artwork from renowned galleries and artists around the world, it is a great space to immerse yourself in various cultures and … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Breguet x Frieze exhibition is back in NYC until May 21 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hands-On With A Horological Heavyweight: Breguet Hora Mundi 5717
Quill & Pad
Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5557: Instant-Change Time Traveler Now has One of its Best Dials – Reprise
When Martin Green first got into watches in the late 1990s, Breguet was one of the brands that captivated him right from the beginning. And one Breguet stood out to Martin more than others: the Hora Mundi. Now he thinks that the new Hora Mundi 5557 is even better and with a complicated dial that is simply sensational.
Time+Tide
The Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327
Breguet’s new Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 is based on their automatic pocket watches from the 1780s The perpetual calendar display is arranged with strength and balance It’s a great size at 39mm in diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug The law of conservation of energy states that energy cannot be created nor destroyed, so the idea that … ContinuedThe post The Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327
Breguet updates their perpetual calendar in the Classique collection with the new Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327
Breguet has announced a new flagship perpetual calendar wristwatch, the Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327. Succeeding the ref. 5327 that’s been in the catalogue almost two decades, the new ref. 7327 retains the traditional style that defines the brand while incorporating refinements and gentle modernisation in the design. Importantly, the ref. 7327 features a new perpetual calendar mechanism that boasts an elaborate retrograde display that illustrates Breguet’s sophisticated approach to movement construction. Initial thoughts The design of the ref. 7327 is quintessential Breguet and indisputably the main attraction. The orderly yet asymmetrical dial finished in guilloche, pomme hands, and the slim case with a fluted band – it is Breguet. Yet I’d be remiss not to mention the immense charm and finesse the ref. 7327 exudes. Thoughtfully executed dress watches are seldom encountered today, especially ones with svelte, just-right proportions, but this a niche that Breguet has mastered with consistency and quality. The design of the ref. 7327 is particularly interesting because it is clearly classic Breguet, but with a modern twist. The dial is slightly cleaner than old-school Breguet wristwatches, which were often elaborately, and sometimes fussily, decorated. But unlike the facelifted ref. 7337, for instance, which traditionalists might argue is too modern, the ref. 7327 is still eminently classical. Additionally, the addition of a retrograde month display at 11 ...
Time+Tide
VERSUS: The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 910P & Breguet Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097
Welcome to Versus. This new column is as simple as it sounds. Each week a member of the Time+Tide team will be tasked with pitting two comparable watches against each other head to head, highlighting why they are worthy of being compared, the different strengths each distinctly carry, and the reasons to choose one over the … ContinuedThe post VERSUS: The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 910P & Breguet Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Rare Complications, Breguet Numerals, and Should You Return A Watch After A Breakup?
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 “Expanding Hands”
Even though Breguet is not a name that instantly comes to mind when it comes to ladies’ watches, the brand makes one of the most distinctive female watches on the market today. Late last year Breguet debuted perhaps its most ladies watch in some time: the Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 that both possess a quirky yet graceful complication inspired by “expanding hands” pocket watches from the 18th century. Immediately recognisable thanks to its distinctive egg-shaped case, the Reine de Naples was inspired by similarly-ovoid bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples and the younger sister of Napoleon. Reine de Naples – literally “Queen of Naples” – remains the brand’s signature watch for ladies, though the line-up has grown to encompass many iterations over the years. Admittedly, the models are numerous enough that few leave a lasting impression, but the “expanding hands” allow the new duo to easily stand out. Initial thoughts I was impressed when I first laid eyes on the new Reine de Naples. Neither is a typical ladies’ timepieces that lazily relies only on a bejewelled case to stand out. Both models have a striking, elegant aesthetic that’s slightly more modern than expected from Breguet but still possessed of enough intricate detail. Though seemingly simple at the glance, the new Reine de Naples has a clever and unusual hour display with “expanding hands”. The simplicity of the time display combined with the n...
Quill & Pad
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365: Celebrating 220 Years Since The Invention Of The Tourbillon With Easter Eggs – Reprise
The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365 marks the 220th anniversary of the invention of the tourbillon by Abraham-Louis Breguet, and it approaches the milestone with restraint and an 'Easter egg' nod to those in the know.
Deployant
New: Breguet Classique 9075 2023 Chinese New Year Edition
Breguet's release for the Year of the Rabbit 2023, is this new Classique 9075 with an artistic interpretation of rabbits on the dial.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Classique 9075 “Chinese New Year”
Continuing its annual tradition of commemorative editions for the Chinese Lunar Year, Breguet introduces the Classique 9075 “Chinese New Year” to commemorate the Year of the Water Rabbit set to start in January 2023. While last year’s “Tiger” edition was a men’s watch with a hand-engraved dial, this year’s watch is artisanal yet whimsical in a manner that is atypical for the typically conservative brand. Initial thoughts It is always lovely to see a timepiece that makes you smile, especially from a brand that is usually formal. While Breguet debuts special editions regularly, it often utilises guilloche for the dials, as is the brand’s trademark. So the playful dial on the Classique 9075 is refreshing. The prancing-rabbit motif manages to be whimsical without being bold and loud, and still retains the elegance and grace expected of Breguet. And of course the grand feu enamel dial is executed with intricate detail and craftsmanship. The Classique 9075, however, is a women’s watch, not because of the design but the compact case diameter of 33.5 mm as well as the diamonds on the bezel and lugs. A masculine version – scaled up and sans diamonds – would certainly have appeal for male enthusiasts. At CHF43,000, the Classique 9075 is priced in the same ballpark as comparable models in the regular production collection, making it a compelling alternative to the average Breguet. But it will only be an alternative for very few as the watch is limited to o...
Quill & Pad
Breguet Reine de Naples References 9835 & 9838: Declaring A Love Of Timeless Elegance
In the newly introduced Breguet Reine de Naples References 9835 and 9838, the minute hand has become a sporty, elegant declaration of love. These intriguing hands feature a unique mechanism that traces the minute track around the edge of the oval dial in a singular way, at times looking like a heart.
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REVIEW: The Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597
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New: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 & 9838
Breguet adds to the extensive Reine de Naples collection with two new watches showcasing two styles. The nee Ref. 9834 and 9838.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 in Black Enamel
Inspired by a long-lost wristwatch saying to 1812 that might have been the first-ever wristwatch, the Reine de Naples is Breguet’s signature watch for ladies. Quirky in form but elegant, the model is available in numerous iterations, but the latest is unusually stark but no less graceful: the Reine de Naples 8918 with a glossy black enamel dial. Like the rest of the line, the new 8918 has its roots in the 19th century. Invented as jewellery that happened to tell the time, wristwatches of the period were fashionable accessories. One of the earliest known examples was an egg-shaped bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, the younger sister of Napoleon and the Queen of Naples – reine de Naples in French. Initial thoughts Perhaps one of the most distinctive ladies’ watches on the market today, the Reine de Naples gets less attention than it deserves for a variety of reasons, including Breguet’s restrained marketing and the fact that brands like Cartier have more famous form watches. But the history and visual appeal of the Reine de Naples, as well as Breguet’s overall quality, makes it noteworthy. The 8918 in black enamel preserves the essence of the model, but it instantly stands out for its high-contrast, monochromatic palette. But it’s not merely a pretty face, for the execution is also appealing since it’s fired enamel in black, an uncommon colour for the material. Grand feu enamel dials are relatively uncommon in ladies’ watches, so B...
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New: Breguet Classique Calendar 7337
The emblematic piece of Breguet's Classicque Collection, the Reference 7337 gets a facelift refresh. Now in white and rose gold.
SJX Watches
Breguet Facelifts the Classique Calendrier 7337
One of the longest-lived models in Breguet’s line-up, the Classique Calendrier 7337 has been in the catalogue since the 1980s before being revamped in 2009 to give the model its current proportions. Now Breguet has given the 7337 a gentle cosmetic makeover with a redesigned dial. Despite changing none of the fundamentals, the new dial gives the 7337 a distinctly different look that is amongst the most modern in the brand’s Classique collection. Initial thoughts The new 7337 modernises a longstanding model in Breguet’s lineup, one that was originally inspired by pocket watches the brand made in the 19th century. The redesign certainly succeeds in giving the 7337 a more contemporary flavour, so anyone who finds the original design overly old fashioned will appreciate the facelift. However, the new look loses some of the classical elegance that defines Breguet in my opinion. And it also loses the quirky elegance that was characteristic of the original dial layout. Design aside, the new 7337 is very much identical to the earlier model in terms of movement and construction, which means the quality is excellent, as is typical of Breguet. Considering the quality of build, materials – the guilloche dial for instance is solid gold – and the historically-significant brand name, the new 7337 is a reasonably priced proposition at US$43,000, which is identical to the earlier version and unchanged for several years. Breguet pocket watch no. 3833, c. 1823 Symmetrical, mostly De...
Quill & Pad
Emmanuel Breguet Talks Fakes In The Time Of Abraham-Louis Breguet And Much More
Jan Lidmaňský interviewed Emmanuel Breguet, vice president and head of patrimony at Breguet. He chatted with this direct descendant of Abraham-Louis Breguet about fakes in the time of Breguet, which watch is still missing from the Breguet Museum’s collection, how many pieces the company has acquired at auction over the last 20 years, and much more.
Video
REVIEW: The Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An exhibition of Breguet masterpieces
Hello one and all, it’s Borna once again, delivering event news from Melbourne! With the coldest months upon us, a crowd gathered at the warm Monards boutique on Melbourne’s Collins Street to check out their display of rare Breguet pieces, among many other wonderful watches. The attendees also had a chance to win some wonderful … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An exhibition of Breguet masterpieces appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Breguet Tradition 7047 Tourbillon Waltz
Breguet Tradition 7047 Tourbillon gets a facelift with a new blue dial and components like the tourbillon cage and chain now accented in blue.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover
Tradition is a buzzword in Swiss watchmaking as what we see manufactured today is typically the result of centuries of brand heritage. In the modern era, many novelties are created through age-old techniques, but with design codes and constructions that, perhaps, speak more to the sensibilities of today. Breguet, however, in their Tradition line really … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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New: Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597
Breguet extends the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 with blue dial accents over the anthracite movement in a new model they call Regal Monochrome.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 in White Gold and Blue
Introduced in 2005, the Breguet Tradition is characterised by its inverted movement that reveals most of the movement on the dial. It was a modern concept inspired by the 19th century: the movement was inspired by the souscription pocket watches created by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Since its launch the Tradition has grown into a full-fledged collection ranging from time-only models to the top-of-the-line tourbillon with fusee-and-chain. One of the simplest, yet most striking, is the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597, which has been given a new look with an attractive blue dial. Initial thoughts I have always found the Tradition attractive, particularly the early models with smaller case sizes that tend to work better with in traditional palettes like yellow gold or “pink-on-pink”. The newer models are more sophisticated mechanically, but their cases are larger while the colours are mostly modern in greys and blacks, so the retro-elegance is absent. But the latest Quantième Rétrograde is amongst the best looking Tradition models in the current catalogue. It’s mechanically identical to the original introduced in 2020, but now it gets a two-tone dial that has more contrast, giving it with a stronger character and easily setting it apart from the more classical Tradition models. The date indicator makes a 180 degree jump at the end of each month The blue-on-grey livery isn’t novel, since it was used before on the boutique edition Tradition 7097, a simpler watch tha...
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