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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

The Pink Dial Project Auction Lot Overview: The big box brands Time+Tide
Oct 16, 2021

The Pink Dial Project Auction Lot Overview: The big box brands

Whenever an auction catalogue is released, many collectors scavenge through the lots to find unique or prototype pieces. Whether a piece unique, or watch #00, the pieces present ultra-rare finds for bidders – and, as we all know too well, ultra rare equals super collectible. But what if there was an auction entirely comprised of … ContinuedThe post The Pink Dial Project Auction Lot Overview: The big box brands appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

When the quest for a Rolex becomes the adventure of a lifetime on Route 66 Time+Tide
Rolex becomes Oct 15, 2021

When the quest for a Rolex becomes the adventure of a lifetime on Route 66

It used to be that Rolex was the watch to be worn on adventures – climbing mountains, diving the ocean depths, exploring, and forging new discoveries in science involving huge magnetic fields. Well, Rolex is still in the adventure business, but these days the adventure is more likely to be actually trying to purchase the watch … ContinuedThe post When the quest for a Rolex becomes the adventure of a lifetime on Route 66 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zach gets het up about watch clasps… Time+Tide
Oct 15, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zach gets het up about watch clasps…

If you follow me on Instagram, you may have seen I recently received my Kurono SEIJI watch. If you are unfamiliar with the watch you can check out my initial coverage here, although in the coming weeks I will be sure to do an owner’s review. For some context, the watch was initially launched with … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zach gets het up about watch clasps… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean, robust and sporty-elegant GMT Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 Oct 14, 2021

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean, robust and sporty-elegant GMT

One of the most sought after complications by buyers is the GMT, a watch that can track two or more time zones on the wrist. With complication though can come cost, especially when we enter the realm of big-name luxury brands. But there are exceptions to the rule, and TAG Heuer has just proven this … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean, robust and sporty-elegant GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Unpacking Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mysterious new film with British actor Nicholas Hoult Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre s mysterious new film Oct 14, 2021

Unpacking Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mysterious new film with British actor Nicholas Hoult

News that Jaeger-LeCoultre have teamed with British actor Nicholas Hoult on “a new short film” is intriguing. After all, if a recipe is only as good as the quality of the ingredients, French director Théo Gottlieb has a couple of hand-picked treats straight from that over-priced deli that you only go to on really special … ContinuedThe post Unpacking Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mysterious new film with British actor Nicholas Hoult appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean and versatile traveller’s GMT Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 Oct 13, 2021

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean and versatile traveller’s GMT

Look… we all usually have smartphones at our disposal, but for watch collectors and enthusiasts there is something really neat about having a timepiece that can track two or more timezones. We’re now living in the most globalised society in history, connecting with people all around the world. This past year, we have all been … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean and versatile traveller’s GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 2012 Champagne: It Matches The Hype. And Then Some Quill & Pad
Oct 12, 2021

Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 2012 Champagne: It Matches The Hype. And Then Some

As Sir Winston Churchill said, "My tastes are simple: I am easily satisfied with the best." He would surely have been more than satisfied with this brilliant Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 2012 champagne. The great man also thought that a magnum of champagne is the perfect size for two gentlemen to have over lunch, especially if one isn’t drinking. But what is his relationship with this great champagne house?

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer” Time+Tide Edition Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Oct 12, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer” Time+Tide Edition

SHOP NOW I was walking through Frankfurt airport yesterday, and saw the strangest thing. A hoodie in a shop that featured both Boss and Russell Athletic logos on the chest. I looked at it quizzically. How odd. But somehow, the kinesis between two dramatically misaligned brands titillated me. I actually went over to the hanger … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer” Time+Tide Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Horizon Watches Debuts with the Horizon Diver SJX Watches
Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms Oct 12, 2021

Horizon Watches Debuts with the Horizon Diver

The latest crowdfunded maker of affordable dive watches, Horizon Watches was founded by a veteran of the micro-brand scene, Fred Bekher, a designer who has penned dozens of watches for horological startups. Mr Bekher’s first design for his own brand is the Nautilus, a dive watch with an Art Deco-meets-steampunk aesthetic. Though the model name sounds like something else, it takes inspiration from literature, specifically the submariner commanded by Caption Nemo from Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea.  “While I was reading [the novel] as a child, I would imagine how the Nautilus looked like”, Mr Bekher says of his love for sci-fi and the steampunk world of Verne’s works. Initial thoughts The model name aside, the Nautilus is an original design – it manages not to look like anything else – which is an achievement in the space of affordable dive watches. It’s also thought in form, something that’s evident in the dial and case construction, notable for a watch that starts at US$350. And the design is appealing, most notably the Art Deco font and the smartly-disguised date. And smart it is: the date window is sized identically to the hour markers, while the date disc is entirely “lumed”, so it glows just like an hour marker. That said, some details do inevitably call to mind other, more famous dive watches, namely the Breguet Marine in terms of the dial and the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms for the bezel, but as a whole the Nautilus passes ...

The DWISS M3W Wandering Hour Limited Edition Time+Tide
Casio n Maybe Oct 12, 2021

The DWISS M3W Wandering Hour Limited Edition

How should a watch brand celebrate its 10 year anniversary? In an industry where peers disappear left and right, something extraordinary should mark such a momentous occasion. Maybe a party letting the world know how great you are? Or securing a fantastic bit of product placement?  For DWISS, the best way to celebrate was to … ContinuedThe post The DWISS M3W Wandering Hour Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch Goes Vintage with the 1984 Reloaded Collection SJX Watches
Casio n Swatch constructed Oct 11, 2021

Swatch Goes Vintage with the 1984 Reloaded Collection

Launched in 1983 – with the driving force behind its conception being Ernst Thomke, the then-chief of movement manufacturer ETA – Swatch set out to be the antithesis of the traditional Swiss-made watch. Cased in plastic and quartz, the Swatch watch was cheap, cheerful, and vividly colourful. But it was a hit, with its unusual, funky styling making the Swatch a fashion statement – a million watches were sold in the first year. To celebrate the occasion, Swatch constructed a 13-tonne, 162 m-long mega-watch and hung it from the front of the Commerzbank skyscraper in Frankfurt. A homage to London’s Big Ben, the giant clock was a brilliant publicity stunt that boldly announced the ambitions of Swatch. The oversized watch indicated the time and three pieces of information: “Swatch”, “Swiss”, and the retail price of “DM60”. Now Swatch is remembering 1984 with a quintet of watches, each a recreation of the year’s bestsellers, but with a twist. Instead of plastic as the originals were, the remakes have cases of Bioceramic, while the straps are made of bio-sourced plastic – making the entire watch a little friendlier to the environmental than the 1980s originals. Initial thoughts Given the diverse and imaginative offerings at Swatch, it’s unusual for the company to reissue vintage watches, though it’s done a couple in the recent past. Interestingly, the 1984 collection resonates with the broader, luxury-watch market, which frequently returns to past hit...

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands Collection delivers accessible style in a range of sizes Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands Collection Oct 10, 2021

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands Collection delivers accessible style in a range of sizes

More than 60 years ago, Jack Heuer was inspired to create a timepiece with clean lines and proportions – a watch that leveraged a sense of modernity and purity. He wanted to create a harmonious chronograph watch that conveyed all the necessary information that drivers would love, but in an uncluttered manner that would allow … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands Collection delivers accessible style in a range of sizes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Announcing: The ZENITH X TIME+TIDE ‘NIGHT SURFER’ Limited Edition, dropping October 12. Register your interest now. Time+Tide
Zenith X TIME+TIDE ‘NIGHT SURFER’ Oct 9, 2021

Announcing: The ZENITH X TIME+TIDE ‘NIGHT SURFER’ Limited Edition, dropping October 12. Register your interest now.

Announcing: The ZENITH X TIME+TIDE ‘NIGHT SURFER’ Limited Edition, launching Tuesday 12th October at 2pm CET/ 11pm AEDT. CLICK HERE TO REGISTER YOUR INTERESTThe post Announcing: The ZENITH X TIME+TIDE ‘NIGHT SURFER’ Limited Edition, dropping October 12. Register your interest now. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Tradition Reference 7035: Scintillating With Snow-Set Diamonds   Quill & Pad
Breguet Tradition Reference 7035 Scintillating Oct 9, 2021

Breguet Tradition Reference 7035: Scintillating With Snow-Set Diamonds  

When Breguet introduced the Tradition collection in 2005, it took inspiration from Abraham-Louis Breguet’s souscription pocket watches made back when the famed watchmaker himself was still at the helm. The new Reference 7035 is very much a precious version of Breguet's modern La Tradition with diamonds added to the mix. And they are beautifully snow set!

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire: Highlighting Technicity With Transparency Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Oct 8, 2021

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire: Highlighting Technicity With Transparency

For the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire, Armin Strom teamed up with Kari Voutilainen to give the backplate a refined guilloche motif. We clearly see the hand of the master in this: while the design of the guilloche is not particularly outgoing, it shows its refinement in the way that it is draped around the other parts of the watch. It gently directs the eye to all the right places, allowing admiration for this technical-looking piece to grow.

The Collector’s Crossroads: My inner battle with Grand Seiko’s 9F movement Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s 9F movement Quartz Oct 8, 2021

The Collector’s Crossroads: My inner battle with Grand Seiko’s 9F movement

Quartz Snob. The catch-all term for anyone who looks down on quartz-powered timepieces. It used to identify a small sub-set of collectors that would be condescending in their approach of the technology. But now, it’s wielded as a weapon against anyone apprehensive about spending thousands on a quartz piece. It’s as if everyone forgets that … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: My inner battle with Grand Seiko’s 9F movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nomos Debuts the Zürich Worldtimer Limited Edition Singapore 2021 SJX Watches
Nomos Debuts Oct 8, 2021

Nomos Debuts the Zürich Worldtimer Limited Edition Singapore 2021

Nomos releases retailer-specific limited editions on a regular basis, and the latest addition to that lineup is the Zürich Worldtimer Limited Edition Singapore 2021, a 50-piece run for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass. Based on the Zürich Weltzeit, the Singapore edition has a yellow gold-plated dial with a grained finish, matched with blued hands, as well as the city state in red on the world time ring. Initial thoughts Retailer editions are a Nomos favourite – just last month it was the turn of Amsterdam-based Ace Jewelers – so there really are a lot of them, reducing the novelty of the idea. That said, it is often such limited editions that are the most interesting in terms of colour palette, making them far more compelling than the standard Nomos offerings. That’s the case with the new Singapore edition, which is dressed in a colour and finish not usually found on Nomos watches. While the design remains distinctly Nomos, the livery gives the watch a slightly more striking appearance than the typical Nomos, which tend toward a more muted appearance. Colour aside, the Singapore edition has all the strengths and weakness of the standard version. The strengths are primarily the easy-to-operate world time as well as attractive movement, while the weaknesses are the long lugs and the small font for the world time display. Gilt and blue Besides the gilded finish that’s unusual for Nomos, the dial of the Singapore edition also has a granular texture that’s more p...

Baltic Unveils the MR01 Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 96 Calatrava Oct 8, 2021

Baltic Unveils the MR01 Micro-Rotor

A French brand that specialises in affordable, vintage-inspired watches, Baltic is back with another affordable, vintage-inspired watch. Evidently modelled on gentlemen’s watches of the 1930s, notably the Patek Philippe ref. 96 Calatrava, the MR01 is the brand’s first dress watch. Compact at just 36 mm in diameter, the MR01 is also thin at under 10 mm thanks to the micro-rotor automatic movement within, which is also the reason behind the unusually positioned seconds at seven o’clock. Initial thoughts Baltic has consistently released vintage-inspired watches that are the right combination of design, details, and affordability, which is exactly what the MR01 is all about. It has an aesthetic that instantly brings to mind the Patek Philippe ref. 96, accented with overtly vintage details like the applied numerals and stepped bezel. But its most novel aspect is arguably the movement, which has a micro-rotor, an uncommon feature in watches at this price point, for now. The fit and finish of Baltic’s offerings is good considering the price, which is an affordable US$600 or so for the MR01. That’s possible due to the fact that most of the watch is assembled using components made by Chinese suppliers. Chinese watchmakers themselves produce watches of comparable quality for less money, but most have yet to offer the design and eye for details that Baltic possesses. And that is why Baltic’s watches are value propositions that enjoy with commercial success. Effectively vi...

EDITOR’S PICK: This is the Grand Seiko that changed everything for me…    Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Oct 8, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: This is the Grand Seiko that changed everything for me…   

EDITOR’S NOTE: Ok, we admit we ran this story quite recently, but there’s a reason why it’s back in rotation already. This week, Grand Seiko announced that their 4 Seasons collection, that was previously only available in the US, is now being opened up to the rest of the world. These aren’t any watches either. … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: This is the Grand Seiko that changed everything for me…    appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Oct 7, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater

Debuted exactly 90 years ago a sports watch, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is famous for its swivelling case that was meant to protect the crystal. But in the modern day, the Reverso has paradoxically evolved into brand’s signature dress watch, as well as a canvas for assorted complications and artisanal decoration. The latest 90th anniversary model falls into the former category – the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater is highly complicated, with its mechanics visible on two open-worked faces: the chiming mechanism revealed on the front and the base movement on the reverse. The front (left) with the repeater revealed, and the back showing the hand-wind calibre Initial thoughts The Reverso Tribute Repeater is an example of smart engineering and design, executed in a way that is possible only with the Reverso’s two faces. Notably, doing away with a solid dial is actually a technical necessity (more on that later), rather than mere vanity, but it leaves the watch looking as impressively complicated as it is. Though a modular repeater, its repeating mechanism is no ordinary example, but instead incorporates two proprietary innovations that compound to produce louder chimes, namely the extra-large hammers and the gongs that are located as close to the wearer as possible – they are attached onto the front crystal, hence the absence of the dial. Upon activation, the slider on the left winds up the mainspring at six o’clock, which unwinds to power the repeater That said, t...