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Can We Appreciate The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms As Just A Good Dive Watch? Fratello
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms As Just Mar 24, 2025

Can We Appreciate The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms As Just A Good Dive Watch?

Last year, I asked, “Can we appreciate the Rolex Submariner as just a great dive watch?” That question and article sparked a lot of debate. Today, I am asking a similar question of the Submariner’s spiritual competitor, the 42.3mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique. “Icon” is one of the most overused terms in the watch world. […] Visit Can We Appreciate The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms As Just A Good Dive Watch? to read the full article.

Exploring Evergreens: Thomas Goes Hands-On With The Original Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A Fratello
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 3700/1A After Mar 19, 2025

Exploring Evergreens: Thomas Goes Hands-On With The Original Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A

After spending time with the Rolex Submariner ref. 5508 and the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph, I get yet another chance to explore a personal grail watch today. Yes, life can be good when you have special access to some of the world’s finest watches. This time, I got to strap on a 1978 […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: Thomas Goes Hands-On With The Original Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A to read the full article.

Insight: Regulating a Mechanical Watch Movement SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Mar 7, 2025

Insight: Regulating a Mechanical Watch Movement

A mechanical watch is not always spot on; less-than-perfect timekeeping can happen, often due to an unruly oscillator. The solution is direct adjustments to the hairspring and balance assembly, either slowing down or speeding up the oscillator, a practice known as regulation. Watchmakers have devised multiple innovations to achieve this, including the free-sprung balance, exemplified by the Gyromax of Patek Philippe and Microstella of Rolex. While a simple concept in principle, the mechanics and practice of regulation are nuanced. Here we’ll delve into the theory of regulation and the primary regulating systems: the curb-pin regulator and the free-sprung (or variable inertia) balance. The Lange L043.4 with a screwed balance inspired by pocket watches Basic concepts In order to better understand watch regulation, we need to first cover some of the basic physics behind the watch oscillator: The component responsible for the running rate of a movement is its regulating organ. The regulating organ is made up of a hairspring paired to a balance, which together are also known as a harmonic oscillator. The natural oscillation period is the time it takes the balance to make a full swing, back and forth. The period is made up of two vibrations, one for each direction of the balance motion, with the escapement being unlocked at each vibration. Notably, the natural period of a balance wheel is intrinsic to itself and does not depend on the escapement type or the going train ratio. ...

The MoonSwatch '1965' Review Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 26, 2025

The MoonSwatch '1965' Review

If you’re a Speedmaster fan, you know the story. NASA sent out an RFP for an official watch of the space program – a watch that would undergo a litany of tests (pressure, temperature, corrosion resistance, shock, acceleration, and vibration to name more than a few) to prove that it could withstand the rigors of space exploration. Three watches came in for testing: A Longines Wittnauer 235T, a Rolex Daytona Ref. 6238, and an Omega Speedmaster ST105.003 dating to 1964. As you know, the Speedmaster won the contract and on March 1, 1965, it became the aforementioned official watch of the space program. That designation has since been engraved on the caseback of every Moonwatch in production today. This week, the Swatch Instagram account was buzzing with retro video content that would always end with a title card reading “1965.” Today, we know why. Celebrating 60 years since the flight qualification of the Speedmaster, and nearly 60 years from the moment Ed White took a Speedy for a 20-minute space excursion during Gemini IV, Omega and Swatch have announced a celebratory MoonSwatch that marries the past to the present. The first thing you’re going to notice is the white dial, a detail that harkens back to Snoopy MoonSwatch, but more importantly, to the 2024 White Speedmaster that set the watch world on fire after DanielCraig wore it to Planet Omega in New York in 2023. For all of you who wince at the sight of yet another MoonSwatch – and there are plenty of you – ...

Hands-On: the TUUL Filthy 13 Worn & Wound
Hamilton Khaki Field Bulova A-11 Feb 10, 2025

Hands-On: the TUUL Filthy 13

It’s hard to deny the outward appeal of a field watch. Tactical but not overly macho, mature but not boring-the traditional field watch “style” is eminently wearable for combatants, explorers, mountaineers, and the regular old civilian crowd. Classics like the Hamilton Khaki Field, Bulova A-11 “Hack”, Seiko Alpinist, Rolex Explorer, and many, many more, are icons of the category, and it’s hard to feel like there’s much more to be innovated or improved upon.  The TUUL Filthy 13 is keenly aware of the history of the field watch. Its very name is a derivation of the “Dirty Dozen”-both the 1967 war movie about a squad of delinquent soldiers, and the twelve Swiss watchmakers commissioned to build a watch to help win World War II for the Allied forces in 1945. The Filthy 13 is a reference to Private Jake McNiece, the thirteenth member of the real-life military unit, left out of the film based on the squad’s feats-a cheeky signal of the Brooklyn-based company’s dedication to preserving the history and resilience of the field watch, while carving their own convention-breaking niche.  I was given the opportunity to test out the Filthy 13, and was immediately drawn in by the well-laid out history and inspiration behind the watch. My first field watch was a Timex Weekender Indiglo given to me by my grandfather-a watch I still have and wear frequently-and I regularly pine after the Hamilton and Seiko 5 lineups. At first glance, the Filthy 13 is a well...

Introducing – Bucherer Releases 3 High-End Exclusive Watches from Chopard, Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Feb 10, 2025

Introducing – Bucherer Releases 3 High-End Exclusive Watches from Chopard, Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin

Bucherer, one of the world’s oldest and most esteemed watch retailers, now owned by Rolex, has long been a leader in the industry, and for a few years, offers its customers exclusive access to limited-edition timepieces created in collaboration with renowned partner brands. For years, collectors and enthusiasts have enjoyed unique adaptations of existing models, […]

Just Because – Patek Philippe Discontinues Multiple Models Incl. the Nautilus Moonphase 5712A, and Some Predictions for its Future Monochrome
Patek Philippe Discontinues Multiple Models Incl Feb 3, 2025

Just Because – Patek Philippe Discontinues Multiple Models Incl. the Nautilus Moonphase 5712A, and Some Predictions for its Future

Models come and go from brands’ portfolios. There’s nothing extraordinary in this, it’s just standard practice and lifecycle management. Rolex, for example, did it last year with the Yacht-Master II Regatta Chronograph (not necessarily a bad idea…) Patek Philippe is no stranger to this concept, as we’ve seen in the past – basically every year, […]

Hublot’s Latest SAXEM Release is a Green Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Worn & Wound
Hublot s Latest SAXEM Release Jan 22, 2025

Hublot’s Latest SAXEM Release is a Green Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic

While I haven’t been doing “this” as long as some who have been in the watch media trenches since a time when you could reliably get a discount on a brand new Rolex at an authorized dealer, I’ve been doing it long enough to get a sense of the rhythms of a new release season. We are, as of yesterday, in the thick of it. LVMH Watch Week is the unofficial (but also kind of official) kick off of a new year in novelties from big luxury group brands, and within the confines of the LVMH experience there’s one tradition that stands out to me that’s become something I look forward to and get genuinely excited about: seeing what kind of crazy sapphire or SAXEM cased watch Hublot has come up with. Pretty reliably, on a year to year basis, Hublot shows us a wild and colorful and extremely expensive watch in an exotic, glass-adjacent material. This year, like clockwork, they’re back with the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM, a watch whose name is nearly doing my job for me. I’ve made no secret over the years of how much I enjoy these oversized, translucent watches. If I had to pick a favorite, it would probably be the purple sapphire Big Bang Tourbillon from 2022, but I’ll thank you in advance for not actually making me choose, because frankly these watches all do their thing equally well, and choosing the one you like best is like picking your favorite Coen Brothers movie. Some days it’s Fargo and on others it’s No Country for Old Men but maybe on Sunday...

TAG Heuer’s Long Awaited Formula 1 Update is Here Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer s Long Awaited Formula Jan 21, 2025

TAG Heuer’s Long Awaited Formula 1 Update is Here

Was there ever any doubt that this was where this year was headed? Ever since it was announced that LVMH, and specifically TAG Heuer, would be taking over Formula 1 timekeeping responsibilities from Rolex as part of a broader 10-year partnership between the two, it was clear that 2025 would (for TAG Heuer) be all about racing. We just didn’t know what that would look like, at least when it came to the watches. Now we do, and surprise, surprise, TAG Heuer is kicking it off with a brand new generation of (what else?) The Formula 1 Chronograph. Motorsport and TAG Heuer have long been linked (something Zach recently explored), and one obvious example of this is the Formula 1. TAG Heuer launched the first generation of the Formula 1 way back in the ‘80s, and the simple, colorful, quartz watch helped to clearly establish a new sensibility for the brand. Since then, the Formula 1 has evolved, eschewing the almost toy-like quality of the earliest releases to bear the name and moving upmarket while still acting as the clear entry point into the brand’s chronograph offering - a quartz Formula 1 can still be had for under $2000, an almost shocking price tag in the context of the modern market. These new Formula 1s are a decided step up from those watches but still come in under the price of the latest generation of Carrera chronographs. The watches themselves are bold and clearly represent a step into a new generation of design language for the Formula 1 - a refreshing chan...

The Least Expensive Panerai Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Panerai Jan 8, 2025

The Least Expensive Panerai Watches

Panerai might be the most in-your-face example of the quintessential Tool Watch That Made Good as a Luxury Item. Unlike many other contenders for that title, a Panerai watch today looks essentially the same as it did back in the 1940s, when Italian navy frogmen wore them into underwater combat. Few concessions have been made to modern tastes and trends: the luminous material on the dials is no longer radioactive (inarguably a positive change), Rolex no longer makes the cases, and you no longer have to be a naval commando to own one, but otherwise the relatively few models that make up the Panerai family have stubbornly adhered to their military-issue origins. It is this adherence that makes Panerai, for many, an all-or-nothing proposition — either you’re in the brand’s worldwide, rabid coterie of fans and collectors, proudly self-dubbed the Paneristi, or you roll your eyes at the notion of ever owning one: they’re too big, too flashy, too clunky, too Stallone.  This article, the latest in our series of Price of Admission guides, is aimed at those aspiring to join the former group — in other words, those wishing to pull the trigger on their first Panerai but possibly intimidated by the breadth of choices — and, of course, by the ticket price for entry to that first tier of Paneristi-land. Without further ado, let’s find the most affordable Panerai watches in each of the current product families. RADIOMIR The Radiomir, first conceived in 1935 but tracing its m...

The Dirty Dozen Watches As Interpreted By Half A Dozen Affordable Microbrands Fratello
Audemars Piguet Dec 29, 2024

The Dirty Dozen Watches As Interpreted By Half A Dozen Affordable Microbrands

We often hear statements like, “This watch is a true classic,” or “This is a timeless design.” Typically, such statements refer to big names in the watch industry, such as Rolex and the Submariner, Omega and the Speedmaster, or Audemars Piguet and the Royal Oak. That’s either because their designs are simple and indeed timeless […] Visit The Dirty Dozen Watches As Interpreted By Half A Dozen Affordable Microbrands to read the full article.

Year in Review: Eight Predictions for 2025 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin VC will all mark Dec 26, 2024

Year in Review: Eight Predictions for 2025

Twenty twenty-five will be shaped by several factors, ranging from major anniversaries for a trio of important high horology brands, to economic reality where the slowdown in demand will reshape retail channels (and already led one watch brand to go bust). And the coming year will also see the still-unknowable Rolex strategy unfold, which might happen under the radar but will definitely be interesting. Big watches for a big year Next year will be a milestone for trio of important brands. Audemars Piguet (AP), Breguet, and Vacheron Constantin (VC) will all mark significant anniversaries: 150 years at AP, 250 years of Breguet, and 270 years for VC. This implies some major timepieces or even mechanical objects are on the way. Such watches are practically convention as landmark anniversaries are often platforms for brands to launch major watches. Some of the most complicated watches in contemporary watchmaking were anniversary creations – Patek Philippe marked 150 years with the Calibre 89, and then 175 years with the Grandmaster Chime. The Patek Philippe Calibre 89 launched in 1989 for its 150th anniversary. Image – Patek Philippe Museum In 2005, when VC marked its 250th year, it launched the Tour de l’Ile, which was the most complicated wristwatch in the world at the time, and also the most expensive wristwatch sold at auction that year. With that in mind, VC might be working on something that lives up to its status as a maker of haute horlogerie complications. The Vac...

Zenith Looks to the Jungle for a Wild New Limited Edition Defy Extreme Worn & Wound
Zenith Looks Dec 3, 2024

Zenith Looks to the Jungle for a Wild New Limited Edition Defy Extreme

One of my favorite pastimes within the world of watch enthusiasm is to tell anyone who will listen that the “Leopard” Rolex Daytona is my favorite version of the storied chronograph. When the Daytona comes up in conversation (and it does, a lot) I’m always ready to share that the intricate gem and diamond set version inspired by leopard prints and favored by Nicolas Cage is my favorite example. This assertion is only half a joke – I really do admire craftsmanship inherent in these watches (which is somewhat uncommon for Rolex) but mostly I like that the watch exists as a transgressive alternative to the norm. And what better way to do that than with a watch inspired by big cats and the jungle? The new Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle, a watch which immediately made me think of my favorite Daytona, knows that there is, in fact, no better way to gently push on the expectations of the typical watch enthusiast.  There’s an important distinction to be made between this new watch from Zenith and the Daytona, and that’s that the Leopard Daytona is, in every way, an outlier in the Daytona collection and for Rolex as a whole. The Zenith Defy Extreme, and the Defy line more generally, are made up almost entirely of outliers. In other words, it’s not actually that strange to see a jungle inspired Defy Extreme when we’ve already seen high concept Defys taking on various themes over the course of many years. This isn’t even the first time Zenith has played with the “jung...

The Evergreens – An Extensive Look at the Entire Tudor Black Bay Lineage from 2012 to 2024 Monochrome
Tudor Black Bay Lineage from Nov 8, 2024

The Evergreens – An Extensive Look at the Entire Tudor Black Bay Lineage from 2012 to 2024

It is pretty impressive to see how Tudor’s Black Bay models have established themselves as more accessible options to the Rolex Submariner in a relatively short period of time without compromising on quality. But more than just being a more accessible Submariner, the Black Bay has gained its own status over the years, becoming an […]

Introducing – The Return of the Triton Spirotechnique Dive Watch Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Oct 29, 2024

Introducing – The Return of the Triton Spirotechnique Dive Watch

While the Rolex Submariner, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Omega Seamaster ruled the 1950s enthusiast and military diving scene, it was the Triton Spirotechnique in 1963 that briefly became the most expensive dive watch of its times, although never the best known. It was developed for the Spirotechnique company (Aqualung), founded by oceanographer/filmmaker/French naval officer Jacques […]

Introducing – A New Trio of Amber-Toned H. Moser & Cie. Exclusive Creations for Bucherer Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Exclusive Creations Oct 8, 2024

Introducing – A New Trio of Amber-Toned H. Moser & Cie. Exclusive Creations for Bucherer

Bucherer, the world’s leading watch retailer that recently made headlines when Rolex acquired it, has a history of collaborating with various brands to release exclusive editions, and one signature colour has consistently defined these partnerships – Bucherer Blue. Last year, this theme was showcased in a trio of remarkable timepieces from H. Moser & Cie […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Tudor References Fratello
Tudor References Another Friday another Oct 4, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Tudor References

Another Friday, another list! Last week, we looked at the rarest Rolex Submariner references. This week, we have shifted our focus to Tudor. We decided to have a look at our favorite five vintage Tudor references. Most people will know the classic Submariner models, but there is plenty more to enjoy from the Tudor brand. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Tudor References to read the full article.

Insight: The Advantages of a Vertical Clutch Chronograph SJX Watches
Breitling B01 Oct 2, 2024

Insight: The Advantages of a Vertical Clutch Chronograph

The vertical clutch has become the de facto standard in modern chronograph movements thanks to its mechanical and practical benefits. The widespread and varied use of the vertical clutch is illustrated by the many recent movements that employ the mechanism, ranging from the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to the Breitling B01 to the MB&F; LM Sequential Evo. The proliferation of the vertical clutch is easily explained by its merits. Having explained the construction of a vertical clutch, we now turn to its advantages over the traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling). Figure 1: A simplified cross section of a vertical clutch A vertical clutch serves to transfer energy from the going train of the movement to the chronograph going train, accomplishing this via a vertical motion. Figure 1 illustrates its key parts: a flywheel (yellow) geared to (or even part of) the going train; a cone (grey) that is linked to the chronograph seconds mobile, and vertically tensioned by a spring (red); a pair of pincers (blue) that engage with the cone, lifting or lowering the cone.  When the cone is raised and engaged with flywheel, the chronograph starts running, and when the cone drops and disengages, the chronograph stops. One of the most apparent advantage of the vertical clutch is the low kinetic friction generated during coupling and uncoupling of the chronograph, as friction is produced only by the sliding motion of the pincers and the vertical motion of the cone. The Rolex Cosmogra...

The Tudor Prince Oysterdate “Jumbo” Is A Vintage Value Proposition Fratello
Tudor Prince Oysterdate “Jumbo” Sep 29, 2024

The Tudor Prince Oysterdate “Jumbo” Is A Vintage Value Proposition

I am a big fan of vintage Tudor, as many of you will probably already know. Tudor, to me, is a brand that represents the very best of Hans Wilsdorf’s vision of creating mechanical excellence but without the posh baggage of Rolex. The vintage Tudor Prince Oysterdate “Jumbo” will scratch the Datejust itch but with […] Visit The Tudor Prince Oysterdate “Jumbo” Is A Vintage Value Proposition to read the full article.

Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Sep 20, 2024

Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph

Having already explained the more traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling), we now look forward to the more modern vertical clutch. This is found in some of the most famous chronographs in contemporary watchmaking, including the Rolex Daytona with the cal. 4131 (pictured above), Patek Philippe Nautilus with the CH 28-520, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph with the cal. 4401. Arguably the most advanced type of chronograph coupling mechanism, the vertical clutch as it is known today was debuted in 1969 by Seiko in the 6139 chronograph. But the concept can be found in late 19th century pocket watches, and even the inexpensive Pierce Chronographe of the 1930s. Today it is practically the default choice for new chronograph constructions. Equipped with the vertical clutch, the Patek Philippe CH 28-520 in the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A Like its horizontal counterpart, the vertical clutch serves as the mechanical link between the chronograph mechanism and the going train of a movement, allowing power to flow from the going train to the chronograph, which then allows the chronograph to run. While it fulfils the same function, a vertical clutch works differently from the horizontal equivalent, a distinction that comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. How it works A chronograph vertical clutch is similar to the clutch found in the manual transmission of some automobiles. The clutch of an automobile enables the intermittent connec...

Business News: LVMH Close to Formula 1 Sponsorship Deal SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton would have Sep 6, 2024

Business News: LVMH Close to Formula 1 Sponsorship Deal

The rumours have been swirling for some months that LVMH has replaced Rolex as a key sponsor of Formula 1. As we noted in our July editorial, that wasn’t true yet. According to a source inside F1, LVMH and Formula One Group are on the cusp of a multiyear sponsorship deal starting in 2025. The French luxury group will join Lenovo and Santander as the latest sponsors of F1. Once signed, the deal will mean that LVMH takes the place of Rolex, which had been “Global Partner” of F1 since 2013. The group is not new to F1. TAG Heuer is now a sponsor of Red Bull Racing, while Dior only just signed up Lewis Hamilton as a brand ambassador. But now the group’s many brands – 75 at last count – could stand to gain even more exposure with F1. Marques like Moët & Chandon, Hublot, Loro Piana, and of course Louis Vuitton would have the chance to share in the increasing viewership of the sport, which has been steadily growing its presence in pop culture since it was acquired American media conglomerate Liberty Media in 2017. Besides adding races in glamorous cities like Miami, F1 is now the subject of a hit television series on Netflix. And a film starring Brad Pitt, titled F1 naturally, will premiere on Apple TV next year. LVMH Watch Division chief Frédéric Arnault (third from left) at the 2023 Monaco Grand Prix with the drivers of Red Bull Racing. Image – TAG Heuer TAG Heuer returns More importantly, an F1 deal will be a return to form of sorts for TAG Heuer, the biggest ...

Fratello’s Top 5 Gentlemen’s GMT Watches - From Grand Seiko, Parmigiani Fleurier, Lorca, And More Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Lorca Sep 6, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Gentlemen’s GMT Watches - From Grand Seiko, Parmigiani Fleurier, Lorca, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at five gentlemen’s GMT watches that stand out because of their distinguished presence. These aren’t your typical Rolex GMT-Master-influenced timepieces. No, this is a list of the more classical-looking GMTs, multi-time-zone/traveler’s watches that fly a little more under the radar. So don’t expect any colorful rotating bezels […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Gentlemen’s GMT Watches - From Grand Seiko, Parmigiani Fleurier, Lorca, And More to read the full article.

Auction: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype at Phillips SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Aug 27, 2024

Auction: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype at Phillips

The second wristwatch Francois-Paul Journe ever made and the counterpart to the similar example in the brand’s own museum, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” was made by Mr Journe in 1993, by hand naturally. It will be offered by Phillips at its 1990s thematic sale in November (that includes the original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow”), accompanied by associated documents. One of three examples his tourbillon prototype, the watch has all of the telltale signs of a hand-made watch. It also serves as the design template that would later shape the signature F.P. Journe Tourbillon. One of the readily apparent details is the fact that the dial is actually the underside of the base plate. The actual dial, namely the guilloche register at three o’clock, is actually secured by screws on the base plate. With an estimate of over CHF2 million, the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon be sold at Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 that takes place on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President.